Hong Kong, China Report of what it's like to live there - 03/08/12
Personal Experiences from Hong Kong, China
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, Taipei and London.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC.About 20 hours flying time, usually with a stop in LA, SF, or Chicago.
3. How long have you lived here?
2 years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For the US Consulate there are 3 main housing facilities. One is just up the road from the Consulate, and has large, 3.5 bedroom apartments with slightly outdated fixtures and for some reason extremely slow internet. Another is leased units in a large building about a mile from the consulate. They run their own shuttle that drops off right near the consulate at exactly normal working hours. They have 2 and 3 (and maybe 4?) bedroom apartments, all very nice and very spacious by HK standards. The kitchens are a bit small and the appliances are HK-sized, not American sized. Also, no central heating or dehumidifying, you have to use consulate issued space heaters and dehumidifiers. But very conveniently located to everything you might want to do in the city and to public transport. The third main housing is a whole complex owned by the consulate out on the south side of HK island. It has units ranging from 2 bedroom to 4 bedroom. Most are very large, though some are a bit smaller than the Consulate's leased apartments, but all are still large for HK standards. They have balconies and a nice view of the ocean, and also have central AC/heating/dehumidifier and American appliances. However, this facility has had MAJOR maintenance issues since the remodel was completed about 2 years ago; the contractor apparently did a horrible job and now the whole building is falling apart (literally! tiles are falling off the side of the buildings!).Also, it is not very conveniently located for anyone except people with kids at the international school. You pretty much have to have a car out there, as the only thing in walking distance is one poorly-stocked grocery store, and there is essentially no public transport nearby. The consulate runs a shuttle from this complex once in the AM and once in the PM, slightly outside of normal working hours due to the traffic. It takes 15-20 min to get in normally, or 30min-1hr in rush hour.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Unless you're buying all Chinese products (which I don't recommend) and only produce from the wet markets, it is pretty expensive. Western imports, produce in grocery stores, milk products, etc are more expensive than in the US.Most things are available at one point or another, however the market in Hong Kong is considered as one giant experiment, so products come in for a few weeks, then just disappear. If you see something you like, you'd better buy all of it immediately, or you won't see it again.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Mattress pads, dehumidifiers/air purifiers. There's quite a few things I regularly order from the US because they aren't available here (i.e. American-sized clothes and shoes, women's shaving cream, stick deodorant, cold medicine and ibuprofen), but it's not really necessary to stock up on those things before coming.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything imaginable. In all price ranges. In general, though, eating out here is a bit pricey.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
They're not that big on organic here... it's available, but only certain items and very expensive. They really like soy products, so there's plenty of vegetarian and lactose-free foods and products. Not sure about gluten-free or other special products. One thing to be aware of when buying food products here is that HK has its own labelling system, and for some reason they insist on not including everything that is normally on food labels... if you have a particular allergy or sensitivity, you may find yourself frequently standing in the grocery store attempting to peel labels off of boxes to see the original US or UK one.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Some mosquitoes, lots of cockroaches, and pretty much any household bug that likes wet environments. One of the Consulate housing facilities has had bad termite problems in the summer, too.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, but HK post is actually probably faster and more reliable.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic helpers in HK are pretty much all brought in from the Philippines or Indonesia. The minimum wage for a live-in helper is about USD460/month. They must either be live-in or have housing provided for them. Because of Hong Kong immigration restrictions on domestic helpers, you generally have to have a full-time, live-in helper. It's hard to get part-time help (legally), though many helpers will, in addition to their full-time contract, work extra on their day off for someone else.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes and no. The consulate has a "gym", though usually there isn't much space during the logical times to use it. Bamboo Grove housing (the leased one about a mile from the consulate) has a gym. The other two housing facilities don't. There are several large gym chains in HK, but they are VERY expensive (typically over USD100 per month).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
All fine and safe, credit is taken most places.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, everything.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
South China Morning Post is the main English newspaper here, and it is pretty good. The Consulate has packages arranged with PCCW/NowTV that comes with a few English channels, and then you can buy others adhoc.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Depends where you hang out. You will usually need at least some Cantonese for taxis, and if you are going to authentic local restaurants as opposed to just staying in the expat areas then you'll need some Cantonese there, too. It's necessary at wet markets or local markets, and is very useful even at western grocery stores. You can live in HK without Cantonese... but you'd be very limited in your activities and experiences. You need at least a basic amount to have a good experience here.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A lot. Hong Kong is all hills, and for such a pedestrian city has surprisingly bad sidewalks. Very few buildings have handicapped access, there are stairs everywhere.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. Taxis are a bit expensive.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
None, unless you live on the south side of the island. And then, a small one with good gas mileage. But you can't import left-hand drive, and I think you can't import more than some number of years old. There is a great used car market here, since HKers insist on buying brand new fancy cars every few years, so you can find good quality BMWs, Audis, etc under 10yrs old for less than USD10K.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Included in the PCCW/NowTV package, and is comparable to US rates and speeds.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
There are several good services here with plans comparable to the US.Everyone in HK has at least one iPhone. Seriously.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, 6 months or something ridiculous like that. But there is some kind of waiver you can apply for ahead of time if you have all the proper medical paperwork done. I think you have to get it certified that you lived in a 'rabies-free zone' beforehand, which, if you are coming from DC, means some finagling with the map to include much of the Potomac in that zone.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes, we just use the SPCA, and they are pretty good.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, but there is no diplomatic spousal working agreement here, so EFMs who want to work locally have to get their own visa through the job.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suits. Nicer ones than I can afford.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No, it's one of the safest cities I've ever been in.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Lots of respiratory issues... nothing really serious, you'll just have colds or coughs or allergies a lot, but if you have asthma or other similar problems it could be a concern. The medical care here is great. Expensive, but great.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy, and getting worse all the time. Pollution from Guangdong rolls down in waves, and gets trapped in all the smog that sits in between the mountains for days on end. Most days in the central area you feel like you are just breathing exhaust and rubber. At the worst times of the year (usually spring), everyone in the city seems to have a respiratory infection. Everyone gets coughs that last for ages. Particulate levels have reached "dangerous" many times in the last year.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
From about October to December the weather is phenomenal, sunny and 70-80 degrees all the time. The rest of the year... just stay inside. From January through February it is cool and wet, making it uncomfortably cold indoors where there is generally no heating. From February through about September it starts getting incredibly humid, and that there are constant problems with mold. In May it heats up, and until about September it is just too hot and humid to stay outside for very long. July to about November is typhoon season, we've had one typhoon day since I've been here but mostly they go far enough south of us that we just get bad thunderstorms with lots of wind.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No personal experience, but I've heard the HK international school is really great. There has apparently been some trouble lately with space and getting kids places at the school if people are assigned here kind of last minute or in the middle of a school year. There are plenty of other good international and private schools here, though.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I've heard the main international school is not very accomodating with special needs, and tends not to admit students who are already diagnosed with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No idea. Seems most people just use domestic helpers for pre-school childcare.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, probably any sport they want.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Enormous. Over 60,000 Americans alone, and probably even more Brits and Aussies.
2. Morale among expats:
Generally very good. The main complaints are the weather and the air quality, but most expats here are wealthy enough to just go somewhere else for the summer and escape the worst of it.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Prolific. Pretty heavy drinking culture here, I'd say. But certainly not the only thing that you can do. However, it does tend to create a bit of a divide between families and singles/young couples.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, it's a pretty good city for everyone. Though I would imagine kids would feel a little trapped indoors in some of the downtown apartments, there isn't really a 'yard' or anything to play in. I don't have kids, but I wouldn't think HK would bea great place to raise them... all the kids here seem to be very spoiled and obnoxious, all taken care of by domestic helpers and all seemingly very sheltered. Even if you don't raise your kids that way, you and your kids would still have to interact with those people regularly. I would think that would get very tiresome.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes, pretty good.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not really. You can pretty much find someone of every nationality and religion here, so it has had to be pretty open in general. There's definitely a lot of antagonism against Mainlanders here right now, and since Filipinas and Indonesians are typically maids here they are likely to be a bit discriminated against.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Mostly eating great food!Also great are going to the horse races, rugby sevens, Octoberfest, dragonboat, and renting a junk boat for a day.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Eating, hiking, eating, going on boat trips, eating, shopping, eating, going out to bars/clubs, eating, going to the horse races, eating, going up the Peak, eating, going to see the big Buddha, eating, going to the local markets, eating, going to Macau, eating, eating, eating... you get the picture.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Chinese art or antiques, bronze decorations, tailored clothes.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It's a very modern, cosmopolitan city. You can live in a very developed city, and still experience a lot of different cultural aspects. It's centrally located in SE Asia, so a good hub for regional travel. There's a lot of activity always going on here, you can experience a lot of different types of events and activities.
11. Can you save money?
Definitely not. Most everything is expensive here, and the COLA just doesn't cover it.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only barely. If I weren't working at the consulate or living in consulate housing I would come back... but there's a definite attitude in the consulate of: 'you're in Hong Kong, there's no such thing as a serious problem here, so we're not going to fix anything or help with anything'. It's very frustrating and has made life here not so much fun.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coats, large pieces of furniture or things that will need to be stored
3. But don't forget your:
Umbrella, swimsuit, and hiking boots.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Do you have any other comments?
Hong Kong is a great city, but it's very odd in some ways. If you come here looking for London or NY, you'll be disappointed. If you come here looking for China, you'll be lost. It's a little bit of everything, while not really being anything. It's also got a big wealth gap problem, and very little middle class. In the area where the consulate and the consulate housing are located, you'll probably feel very poor.
