Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 09/15/13
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No; South and North America as well as East Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
As a Foreign Service Officer I do not have a home base. Haiti is home. But it is nice to be just a quick flight to Miami. With enough notice, a roundtrip ticket on American Airlines is under US$300. This was a surprising and unexpected benefit of being so close to the U.S. since we were used to long flights from Africa. We get to the U.S. every several months. You need the break, sometimes.
3. How long have you lived here?
Little over a year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I am in USG housing so it is not representative of Haiti. USG struggles to find seismically safe housing, and our houses in the hills above Port-au-Prince (Vivy Michel, Belvil, etc) often have problems with leaks, plumbing, etc. Weird designs too, often very large though.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get anything here - at a price. Caribbean market. After not being able to find chicken, butter or cheese in East Africa, it has been a pleasant surprise to find everything is available here. Gluten free, vegetarian, almond milk, probiotic yogurt, hormone free and organic items of everything. Everything. I had been out of the U.S. for years and shopping in Haiti educated me about how much is now available for specific/niche markets these days.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Liquids - wines, beer, Diet coke, etc. Just because it is less expensive - you can get it all here though.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No fast food. There are no McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Starbucks etc here. The concept of Fast Food does not exist. Just relax and enjoy having the table to yourself for a few hours. There are good restaurants though, but not cheap. My favorite place is Haiku (Japanese/Asian) at the UN log base, cheap too. Restaurants in Petionville are ridiculously expensive. But there are a dozen or so very nice places, and all kinds of food are available, plentiful seafood. Churrasco will cost you US$35. Salad, side dishes usually at additional cost. Drinks US$8 or so usually. "Irish Embassy" is an Irish style pub that serves Guiness on tap. Usually Prestige, Heineken, Corona and Presidente beers available. Lobster, grilled fish, lambi (conch) always available. Not 100% sure if clean water is used everywhere - can get bottled though. I have had many GI issues in Haiti and probably some of it is to blame on eating out, but I do not let that stop me. Though expensive, ambiance of restaurants is very nice, usually outdoor garden settings, often with a beautiful view overlooking the city.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I have experienced much worse. I have had a tarantula in my house, as have most of my colleagues. Sometimes you get tiny ants, but keeping the kitchen clean keeps them away. I had a small roach in the kitchen just once - I am used to much worse in developing countries. We all have geckos too, mostly outdoors but sometimes they get in. I like geckos since they eat the bugs. Worst problem is mosquitos. I take malaria meds but many of my colleagues do not. Mosquitos love me, maybe it is my blood type! So I usually take mosquito spray with me when we go anywhere to dine outside, or to local parties (also usually outside). Not too bad in the house - we use Vape when during the rainy season to keep them away, but do not need a mosquito net, as I used in several prior posts.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through pouch and DPO at the Embassy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I pay 11,000 gourdes (about US$260) a month for a full-time housekeeper, 5 days/week, 7-8 hours/day. I do not need a gardener but others not in the compound do use them at a reasonable price. Dog walkers are available, and there are folks to wash your car.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
At the Embassy yes - gym, boot camp, yoga, ballet, Zumba, etc. I have seen gyms in Petionville and the Karibe hotel but we keep free weights and bands at home and use workout videos. Exercising outdoors is hot, unless you get up at the crack of dawn. Early mornings are the best time to run outdoors.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I have not had a problem - markets accept credit cards, and worst problem I have had is that charges are sometimes in Haitian gourdes when I thought they would be in USD, so I get hit with a foreign transaction fee. Nice restaurants also accept credit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Internet and Satellite TV yes. We pay about US$50/month for internet (sufficient to use Netflix though you can get higher speed than we have for more) and US$65/month for TV which includes all U.S. networks, Discovery and cable news channels.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I speak French (no Creole) and my husband does not speak French or Creole, but we both do just fine. I think you would be OK without French or Creole, but I have found French quite helpful.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It would be difficult to be here with a disability, e.g. in a wheelchair.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains. We cannot take tap taps (trucks used as taxis) or motorcycle taxis - not safe, though they may be affordable. You really need a car here. Some people hire a driver too, as they do not want to deal with Haitian roads or Haitian traffic.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4WD if you know how to use it, or something with a good clearance at a minimum. Roads are the worst I have ever experienced (and I drive off-road rallies for fun and grew up 4WDing in southern California). We have a Jeep Wrangler and love it. If you are not a careful driver, you will get dinged up. Many cars here are covered in dents, bangs and bruises. When cars break down locally, they do not move them, but work on them in-place, even if it is the middle of the road, so all traffic must drive around. Which can be tricky. Road flooding also requires a high-clearance vehicle, as do the dirt/rock "short cuts" you will want to take to get around the heavy traffic on sometimes the only paved road in an area.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, US$50/month on up to double or triple that, if you want very high speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Widely available. Do not use a nice one (iPhone) in a large, public area if you want to keep it.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No. Just watch out for airline temperature requirements. You'll need to take the first flight of the day in/out.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
One good vet from the Dominican Republic. She took great care of my dog when he was injured and has helped everyone I know with a pet. Not sure what I would do if she were not here. All vaccines, Xrays, lab tests, specialty foods available through her office.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
A number of spouses of embassy employees have been able to find jobs with NGOs and companies in Haiti, so I'd say not bad, but not the best either. If you work in development, your chances are greater at finding something.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual for the most part. Some men wear suits every day which is OK in the air conditioned building, but this would not work if you are outside a good part of the day. Haitian women are colorful dressers so expat women can be as well.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. We get danger pay here. Embassy staff have a curfew from 1 - 5am, and our travel is restricted, with "yellow zones" and "red zones" where an armored vehicle and/or armed guards must be used, and we must give notice if/when we plan to leave the area or transit through one of these neighborhoods. But concerns are valid. I know many officers who have been robbed (mostly folks on one of their first assignments, but not always).
E.g. at one recent concert at the concert venue near the Embassy, three separate persons were robbed, iPhones mostly. At another event, one person's wallet, phone, and gold necklace were stolen. Another officer's purse was taken while she was talking with someone in a safe area of Petionville - moto drove by and took it. I know of several car break-ins too, but in one case a suitcase was in the back of the vehicle and though it had tinted windows, a window was broken and the suitcase was stolen. We are directed not to leave anything in a parked car, so this was not really a surprise. Someone else also drove with window down (against recommendations) and someone with gun tried to steal their phone. There are recent reports of gangs of people trying to stop travellers in S Haiti near Petit Goave and search vehicles, steal items. This may end up restricting our ability to travel there if more incidents are reported. Americans are occasionally kidnapped, but do not seem to be specifically targeted. Read the State Department's travel warnings, which are updated periodically and seem to be accurate.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You are going to get the Haitian sensation, guaranteed. I have had more GI issues here than anywhere, though have had amoebas and giardia in prior posts. Nothing seems to get rid of it, it keeps coming back. People are sick here (colds and flu as well) more than any place I have ever lived. If you have a sensitive stomach, be warned. I never had a sensitive stomach, but do now. Supposedly there is malaria so I take pills for it, but have not heard of any outbreaks recently. Embassy medical care is good, but Florida is close if you need to get there quickly. Biggest health risk is probably drivers on the roads. We lost an embassy officer recently from a car crash. Greatest health risk is probably the possibility of a bad car accident.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Dusty. Recent visitors told me "it looks like it hasn't rained for a long time" and I told them it rained the day before. But not smoggy or polluted, just dust. However, we all get sick often, with the "Haitian sensation" and some of us are convinced it is not the food or water, but something in the air. Who knows... could be true, or maybe we are just looking for excuses for getting sick all the time. It is always hot! November through March are cooler months thn the rest of the year, but even then at least 80 degrees and sunny during the day.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot. Surprisingly dry (after having lived in the tropics). Almost always sunny. When it rains it usually does not last long, but an unexpected thunderstorm can cause a flash flood worse than a passing tropical storm. Flash floods tun roads into obstacle courses. Warm evenings. You will keep the A/C on in your house all the time, if you have it. I live in Tabarre, but if you are in Petionville, it is 5 - 10 (F) degrees cooler, even more at night - you might need a jacket in the winter at night.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I hear older children (above primary grades) do not like the schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Some families near me have toddlers and they have no problem finding nannies, some who stay in the home.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. There are 10,000 UN (MINUSTAH) soldiers/police here. Endless NGOs and missionary/church organizations.
2. Morale among expats:
So so - you either love it or hate it, usually (I love some things, hate some things). I am not extending my time here, but I do not hate it here and love Haiti's proximity to the US and the rest of the Caribbean. My reasons for not liking it here are more related to the job than Haiti itself.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Much is among friends and co-workers. There is always something to do. Restaurants and clubs have special nights too - salsa lessons, karaoke, etc. It's not Paris, but it's not the middle of nowhere either. Sometimes you have to look for entertainment to find it, but it cn be found.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I would not want to be single here. There are not a lot of options for things to do as you would have in a developed country, so it really heps to have a spouse or partner to share your time with.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
We have a few in our community who do OK but the country itself is not LGBT friendly and the local community recently protested an event for a British expat who was trying to celebrate his same-sex engagement, it got violent.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Haiti is known for its racial prejudice of the light-skinned elite vs. everyone else but I do not usually experience this as a white expat. I have a mixed-race marriage, and we are welcomed in this culture - I think sometimes most Haitians are more accepting of me because my husband is black. But my husband experienced a bit of racism recently when a light-skinned Haitian stopped assisting him to assist a white Haitian, i.e. making the other person's needs more important than his, and coming back to him 10 minutes later. He was quite upset about this. Overall though, prejudice here is less than other places we have lived, even the U.S. and people are quite accepting of our bi-racial marriage. No gender or religious prejudices. We can hear the call to prayer from our home near one of the MINUSTAH bases - there are a number of Muslim contingents here.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips outside of Port-au-Prince. Outdoor patio dining in Petionville restaurants. Driving up to mountains, where it is 20 - 30 degrees (F) cooler than Port-au-Prince, with pine trees and fog. Rhum punch and rhum sours, the best in the world, I believe - I have sampled in over a dozen Caribbean countries. Barbancourt rhum. Day trips to Club Indigo or Moulin Sur Mer beaches or long weekend trips (described above). Haitian konpa music. Concerts at Parc Canne-a-Sucre (Sean Paul was my favorite).
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
As listed in some of my favorite things above. Art and music are prominent in this culture. Getting out of Port-au-Prince as often as possible - beaches, especially. Outdoor patio dining in Petionville. Home parties. Socializing with other exPats. Touring the Prestige or Barbancourt factory, or gingerbread houses. I am hoping to get to the Olafssen hotel on a Thursday night to see their cultural/voodoo dance show. Voodoo section at the iron market is very interesting, a bit scary.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Colorful art, voodoo flags, metal iron sculpture, Haitian furniture, music, Barbancourt rhum.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You could save money if you didn't need to get away so often! Haitian people and culture are wonderful, but we cannot travel freely, and "resorts," which are not really up to international standards, are very expensive. The embassy organized a trip by air to Cap Haitian with tour of Sans Souci and the Citadelle, horse, tour guide and lunch included, three nights at Cormier Plage half-pension for just over US$500 per person. Nicest trip so far. A similar trip to Ile a Vache, Abaka Bay resort, cost about the same, but took 6 hours of driving plus another 2 hours to park car, load and take boat across the island, so one whole day lost in travel. It took two hours less driving on return drive, but still way too much time in traffic not too mention over US$100 in gas for the drive.
The country is beautiful, but not cheap! Former Club Med, now called Club Indigo, and several similar beach clubs are nice, with US$20 - $25 entrance fees, but still not up to international standards. Haitian food is not too bad if you like Caribbean style food. People are friendly, colorful, fun. Weather is perfect if you like hot & sunny. Semi-tropical. I like it, you can always go to the pool. Being close to the U.S. is nice too, easy to get away. Sometimes Insel Air has flights to San Maarten and beyond for 50% off, so can get to other Caribbean countries - Curacao, Saba, etc.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you stay locked up in your house. But don't do that, you'll go stir crazy.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hmmmm. Probably, but I doubt I would come back here to work again. Glad for the unique experience and love my work and that my husband also has a good job. It has been a blessing to be so close to home, for personal reasons. But you cannot come here trying to fix Haiti. If your goal is to make a difference, you will have to measure your impact in very small teeny tiny increments.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter coat. Thoughts that anything starts on time or that food will be delivered promptly.
3. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor. Jeep. Patience, especially with traffic.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Ghosts of Cite Soleil
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Currently reading "The Big Truck that Went By" about the 2010 earthquake.
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you come with the right attitude, you will do just fine here. If you have not been to a developing country, you may be frustrated and hate it here. Your experience will be what you want it to be. Though certain things are very difficult (travel and security restrictions, getting sick a lot, the need to be patient for things to get done), there are wonderful things you can only experience in Haiti and for that, the experience here is worth it.
