Port Au Prince, Haiti Report of what it's like to live there - 09/13/14
Personal Experiences from Port Au Prince, Haiti
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. About 7-8 hours including a transfer in Miami or Ft Lauderdale. There are also direct flights to ATL and JFK. Flights to DC can be had for US$450-700 depending on the season. American is the major carrier, followed by Delta and Jet Blue (as of Dec 2013).
3. How long have you lived here?
1year so far.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There's an Embassy compound of townhouses across from the Embassy plus stand-alone houses and apartments in Vivy Michel, Belvil, Juvenat, Mount Calvaire, etc. Commuting times have improved drastically in the past year for those who are smart enough to learn alternate routes to work. Vivy Michel and Belvil are 15-20 minutes away from the Embassy. Juvenat is about 45 minutes away now but very close to Union School. Canne Sucre is a 2-5 minute walk. People who complain about the commuting times probably weren't around when things were worse. Looking at other Post Reports, our commuting times are pretty common. Schools are usually in the opposite direction of work.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
A family of 3 I know spends US$1200/ month on groceries. This is a consumables post so that's a great way to save. You can get virtually the same offerings from the States here, surprisingly, but it will cost you at least double. Amazon usually ships here within a week.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Suspension parts for my truck, toiletries, lots of DVDs, a few UPS boxes, more clothing (I took for granted that there would be malls), more kids activities, a trampoline for the yard.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No such thing as fast food here!!! There is a Domino's remaining in Petionville, but I don't know how fast the service is. Food is expensive here. The CLO can provide lots of info, but there are Lebanese, Haitian, French, Mexican, American, Chinese, pizza, etc options available. And they will cost you!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes!!!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO and Fedex.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Easy to find, though I don't think that many clean to U.S. standards. People usually pay US$150-350 depending on services or days worked. Please be advised that everyone has a story...you will be asked for money for some family tragedy. I was warned before I arrived and have certainly found it to be true.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is the Embassy gym, a local gym in Vivy Michel (Coin de Village, I believe), and Project Zen in Petionville is a yoga studio. There is also Dance 4 Life and they have a Haitian folklore class for adults in Petionville.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
The Embassy has an ATM and you can use the bank there to write/cash checks to yourself. Any place else is forbidden for us. I haven't had a credit card issue at any restaurants.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There is one church that people go to, but ask around. We opt to watch Joel Osteen on TV.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Some French will help. Creole will help a lot as it's the true local language of all.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes!!! This city is not wheelchair accessible at all and the roads are mostly unpaved and uneven. You will be severely limited here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
All forbidden for us.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
High clearance is a necessity!! Your Altima, Camry, or Accord won't do. An Xterra, 4Runner, Jeep, etc is more like it. You will spend more time off-roading than you realize. Flood damage is also a risk during a rainstorm.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yep for about US$140 month for the recommended plan. I stream movies all of the time without issue.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Unlocked iPhone. You can buy a local chip here and rechargable phone cards.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No clue. I know they cannot fly on American during the summer months. No kennels but there is at least one vet.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
You will probably need to learn French or Creole. Some spouses work for NGOs. There are opportunities at the Embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Orphanages, clothing drives, opportunities to teach English.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
I would say business casual and colorful. The Haitians are usually better dressed than us.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
This is a critical crime post. Typically, mission employees are safe as long as they use common sense. Your iPhone can make you a target for robbery and you could have your purse snatched. Heed travel warnings and avoid routes where there are demonstrations and you are fine. Haitians are pretty nonviolent. They have real problems and we are probably the least of their concerns. We don't have any business in the slums and they are red zones for us anyway. Some people would have you believe that you are unsafe walking anywhere on foot here. I am more afraid of the South side of Chicago these days than walking two blocks from my car to a restaurant in Petionville.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Very minimal. Chickengunya (?) fever is the latest outbreak. Mosquitos are the biggest worry because some carry that and dengue fever. There is a good dentist from what I hear. We do everything while in the States.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very poor. It's dusty and dirty outside at all times. If you have asthma or respiratory issues, this is probably not the place for you. I really don't understand why anyone with impairments or chronic illnesses would bid on Haiti in the first place. It remains the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere so you can't get treated for anything in country.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's always hot. From April - November, it's rainy and hot. December - March is beautiful. Very little rain, dry heat. Temperature is always between 85-95F year round.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Union School is the default Embassy school and is English speaking. It's U.S. accredited and receives virtually all of the complaints from parents. I would not use this school for high school at all, but two years during primary is probably doable. The curriculum is unclear and the kids watch movies during the school day a little more than you would expect. Lycee Alexandre Dumas is the French school and it's a really good school, but nearly impossible to get into unless your kids are transferring from another French school abroad.
Coccinelle and Kikloe are both French preschools in Petionville for Kindergarten and below and the few families who have used them are very happy with the quality of instruction. Both schools also offer after school programs and French tutoring to outside students.
Boucle D'art is a French Montessori school with both a maternelle section (preschool) and primary school component in Vivy Michel. It's the closest school to the Embassy and parents were also very happy there. There are quite a few new families at post with toddlers and preschoolers who are trying the school this year. Keep in mind for the French schools that all meetings and events will be conducted in French. These are local schools, not French immersion programs geared to expats. That can be good or bad depending on what you are looking for. Knowing what I know now, if you are looking for a good quality English program, hold your nose if you aren't religious and enroll your kids into Quisqeya School (K-12) or Morningstar Christian Academy (PreK-12) which are both good U.S. accredited programs. I was warned by several parents (Haitian and American) to opt for one of these two schools over Union and I was hard-headed. Well educated Haitian-Americans who I have met since arrival are using Quisqeya primarily.
The biggest lesson I have learned here is that your best resource for school info will be your FSN (Haitian) colleagues. Americans love to think that they have discovered something new, but the FSNs have been using some of the good schools all along. Coccinelle, Boucle D'Art, Kikloe, Quisqeya, Morningstar, and the Lycee have been used for years by our Haitian colleagues. If you would like to find a martial arts, dance, or soccer program for your kids, ask around. The Americans are only here for 2-3 years and tend to not venture out beyond expat circles, with little exception.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I don't have a clue, to be honest. Union School barely covers the basics. I wouldn't bid on this assignment to be honest if my child had special needs. I have a local Haitian friend who has been trying to find accommodations for her son. She is very resourceful and has been helpful to our family but hasn't found the kind of assistance her son needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Yes, please see above. The preschools all range from US$175-450/month per child, depending on the school, plus an enrollment fee. Typically, you would be responsible for transport. Motor pool is trying to accommodate all this year as a pilot but this is not a guarantee or an entitlement. Post is only responsible for kids receiving education allowance (K-12). Please don't be that whiny parent complaining that your 2-year old requires Embassy provided transport to preschool because of security issues and have this wonderful new benefit removed for all.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Soccer, martial arts, ballet, hip hop, and folklore.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a large community of Diplomats, UN, and NGOs but little mixing between the groups.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most people, especially in Canne Sucre, lounge by the pool every weekend. Lots of entertaining at home, having friends over, going to restaurants. Lots of people travel to the DR, the U.S., or the beach towns on long weekends. There are lounges and clubs, but they tend to be either very local or overly expat dominated. Also, you can tell when a promoter wants upper middle class patrons because the cost will be prohibitive for most. You need some local friends to do a little more.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Couples yes. Singles who love Haitians, yes. Families with small kids are ok too. I wouldn't advise for families with primary school aged kids, but it's not horrible. No way in hell for someone with teenagers. Single women probably have the biggest challenge.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Not really, it is the Caribbean. There are gays and lesbians here but it's hidden.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Hmm, there is an unstated class divide between lighter and darker Haitians. As an expat, you will be fine either way. Going to the DR is probably worse for darker Americans as you might be confused as Haitian and there is definitely tension between the two countries (though I have never seen hostility towards Dominicans here).
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Meeting new people, learning a new language, ease of travel to the States and the DR, enjoying the beach in Jacmel and going to Bassin Bleu. Meeting the Haitian President. Wearing sandals almost daily to work!
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Bassin Bleu in Jacmel. Going up to Kenscoff (the mountains above PAP). Irish Village on Monday nights can be fun.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Art!!!
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Can be easy to save since the Post Differential is high (30%), close proximity to the U.S. and the Dominican Republic, warm/hot weather year round (I hate cold weather), decent beaches, employing household staff is pretty easy and inexpensive, nice arts scene, friendly people, etc.
10. Can you save money?
Yes you can, but it will be tempting to travel outside of PAP often.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I had known that there weren't any shopping malls or movie theaters or fast food restaurants. I took a lot of American conveniences for granted. Now I am more thankful of how good we really have it.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes! It's been a great tour for my family, frustrations aside. I have met some great people here too. This is a very easy place to come to and become bored and isolate yourself from others. We have made Haitian friends and found some friends within the Embassy community that have made the difference for us,
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes and your belief that service should be customer oriented. Understand that we get hardship pay for a reason. The new GSO crew is awesome and they are really trying to improve moral. Please don't inundate them with requests for things you can do yourself (who hung your pictures for you in Washington?). Please don't complain about Haiti in front of Haitians, it's disrespectful. Please remember that when you are complaining about your housing assignment or commute on unpaved roads that you are working alongside Haitians who commute two hours each way from Carrefour and probably don't have electricity the majority of the day. Yet, they've managed to come to work looking fabulous.
4. But don't forget your:
Positive attitude. We all need it.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Try new things while you're here. Subscribe to Manman Pemba and try some local events, get outside of Port au Prince. It's a dirty city but the countryside is beautiful. This place has a unique and rich history and I am really impressed by their ability to retain their local language (Creole) with the U.S. and Latin America surrounding the island. The arts and dance scene is nice. Get out of your comfort zone and add some color to your wardrobe. If you have small kids, take advantage of the local offerings and try a French program while they are young enough to gain entry. Force yourself to be social and create fun. Post needs more optimistic people.
