Doha, Qatar Report of what it's like to live there - 09/01/08
Personal Experiences from Doha, Qatar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. First Middle East expat experience.
2. How long have you lived here?
1 year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government Employee.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Direct from Doha to Washington, DC on Qatar Air. Also direct to New York.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Compounds with others who look like you. If you don't have the government or an oil company paying your rent, forget about it!I heard of one expat renting a room, a single room, in his villa for QR6000 - that's close to US$2,000.Just outrageous. Rich people raise the rents on their properties every year, forcing the rent paying working class to take the kids out of school and send them home because they can't afford to work here and have a family. It's a huge problem.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are so expensive you can't even joke about it, and the prices keep going up. That said, you can get everything you want. You just have to decide what you are willing to pay for.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
As I said, you can get everything you want here, including booze at the government run store. So ... I don't know. Bring your ice skates, there is a very nice rink in the mall and sporting equipment is expensive if you can find it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
It's astonishing that they have imported the very bottom of the American diner style food establishments. TGIFridays, Chilis, Applebees. Hardees, Burger King, Arbys. Krispy Kream Donuts. One bright spot in all this dreck is Johnny Rockets.but why would you eat in any of these places when there is so much great regional food? Middle Eastern food is fabulous and cheap. And the huge working class from India, Sri Lanka, Philippines, Pakistan, and other places guarantees that you'll find restaurants that cater to these folks. They are usually pretty darn good.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I have APO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
You can have your very own slave for quite cheap, but why on earth would you debase your humanity by engaging in and condoning a system of indentured servitude?
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Perfectly safe. Have fun.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think the Christians have some choices.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. About US$60 equivalent a month.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
They speak english here. Everyone. Everywhere.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Probably few. They have handicapped parking spaces and most buildings have doors wide enough for assisted access. Older buildings not so much. There is a lot of slippery paving in malls. This is by no means a walking town. You must have a vehicle to get around.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
If you know what is good for you, you drive on the right with an eye on your mirror - so that you can see when the Landcruiser rages up behind you flashing its bright lights to indicate you must move out of its way NOW.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They exist but they are filled to the brim with the impoverished working class. You really want to take a different mode of transport.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
The terrain here is pretty much flat and rocky, small rocks, boring rocks. There are no hills, no outcroppings, no trees, no bushes, no nothing. There are good roads. You should bring a car that is sturdy and can deal with the heat.a car with an excellent air conditioner. As much as I hate to ever recommend one, an SUV would be perfect. Not so much because you need the power or the capability, but so that you will survive the accident when a Qatari forces you off the road. An accident is a rite of passage here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, comes bundled in a cable TV/internet package. Not a bad deal, reliable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everybody has one. Same as everywhere.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
VOIP.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
It is okay.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. There is a caste system here and people get paid according to nationality.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Conservative, but there are always those who push the envelope. They say no tank tops, but you see them. They say no shorts, but you see them. The Qataris forgive an awful lot of boorish western behavior, but then, as I said the place would fall apart without the expats.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
This is a very dusty place. The sand storms, as they call them, are really nothing more than a layer of dirt settling down over the sky, obscuring the sun and coating everything. There is very little in the way of industrial pollution, though.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The usual in a high threat Middle Eastern city for Americans. However, crimes against individuals, pickpockets, purse snatch, car burglary, are almost non existent. Have not heard of any burglary in the expat compounds.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Qataris go abroad for all major medical care - like heart operations, transplants, etc. For basic care I think you can find a doctor you like. There are several decent clinics and a pretty good hospital. Be prepared to get shoved out of line if a Qatari comes in .They get served first, even if you have been waiting an hour.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid summer from May to October. Mild winter. Little rain.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a lot, but they are all impacted. Unless you have guaranteed admission through your employer, then you will face a waiting list.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge ! There are 1.5 million people here and 80% of them are third country nationals. The expats run everything. If we all left tomorrow the place would unravel.
2. Morale among expats:
Good for the most part. The oil sector folks like being rich and living in big houses. The education folks are in it for the experience so they are content. Most government types are just marking time.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most people entertain in home. Sometimes there will be an event - Placido Domingo gave a one night only concert. It was nice.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, depends on if you are male or female, gay or straight, and yes. Look, there isn't that much to do here, so if you are self contained you'll be fine. If you are dating you might find it a little bleak. As with everything, its what you make of it.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are no gay muslims, right? So I'd say no.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. A woman is still not as important as a man and must ask for permission to work and travel.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The list is short and you'll get through it very quickly.you can hire a four wheel drive vehicle to take you out across the sand, there is some camping to be had, you can drive around the whole country in a day and be back home in time for dinner. The hotels have some bands and nice restaurants. The waterfront is nice. The problem is that for about 3-4 months out of the year your only refuge is the mall, or any other air conditioned building. The temp may only be 107F, but the humidity pushes the heat index up to 140F most days. It is crushing.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
A ticket out. They sell the usual junk in the souque. I don't think that they manufacture anything here, so why would you buy it?
9. Can you save money?
Not if you let yourself get wild in the supermarket, but in general yes. There isn't that much to spend it on. You'll drop all your money getting on a plane to explore the region.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I suppose. I've been worse places. It is comfortable, and I have everything I need. But the arrogance of the Qataris is unbearable, and the way they treat those who they feel are below them is abhorent.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Expectations of a spiritual intersection with Islam and an enlightening introduction into Middle Eastern culture. This is a money culture, pure and simple. Character is measured here by how much someone can display, how much wealth they can accumulate, and how much more important they are than the next guy in a Landcruiser.
3. But don't forget your:
Patience.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
7. Do you have any other comments?
If you come here, fight against a tendency that expats have to start to act like the Qataris. Be courteous on the road.
