Quito, Ecuador Report of what it's like to live there - 07/05/12
Personal Experiences from Quito, Ecuador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was my 3rd expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Pretty much anywhere to Miami, then 3.5 hours to Quito.
3. How long have you lived here?
I lived there for three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Posted at the U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I lived in Gonzalez Suarez in an apartment. Most families lived in Campo Alegre. My commute was about 20 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the afternoon. At worst, when raining, it was 45 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most locally grown fruits and vegetables are quite cheap. Imported ones (apples, etc) are quite expensive. MegaMaxi has most everything you'd want. Ecuadorians love mozzarella based on the shelf space allotted it at the supermarket, but most other quality cheeses and ethnic foods are difficult to come by.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I'd bring a bigger car/SUV. My poor little sedan scraped the bottom on many a speed-bump.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Most major U.S. chains are here, except for Starbucks. I was surprised with the quality of the up-scale restaurants in Quito -- there is a wide variety of excellent and expensive food available. But costs aren't outrageous for U.S. standards. Most Mexican food there wouldn't pass muster with most Americans. On the low-cost side, many great "cevicherias" around town.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None. I was amazed.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I used the DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available and reasonably priced. It's not a bargain, but much more affordable than in the U.S.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
They're are a few, but they're expensive.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
They're widely accepted.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
I had TVCable until they got their pirated CBS/NBC feeds yanked, then switched to DirecTV.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Spanish is a must. Even some in the business community and government don't have an adequate grasp of English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It's not designed for or been adapated much for people with disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are dirt cheap. I never had a problem, but I tried to call radio-dispatched cabs whenever possible.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Because of the potholes, random speed-bumps (with varying heights), and availability of cool day-trips (most of which involve at least part of the trip on a dirt road), I'd recommend a small SUV...something with decent ground clearance. And gas is cheap, so live it up!
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There are a few options. I think I paid about $75/month. It wasn't terribly fast, but was sufficient.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Widely used. Much more common than fixed-line phones.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
People with pets seemed happy with the basic care they were able to find at a reasonable price.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Opportunities were better for those who spoke Spanish. NGOs seemed to offer some decent jobs.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
It's quite conservative, so the business world is coat-and-tie.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Just the usual concerns in any big city. Express kidnappings were on the rise, but were much worse in Guayaquil.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There were a couple of good international hospitals/clinics.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Quito's air quality is quite unhealthy. Diesel-spewing city buses and escolar vans fill the air with exhaust. The long, narrow valley within which Quito is built serves to make this a bit worse.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Spring all year. I loved it, but many complained that it was too cold. It was 70-75 most afternoons (but felt hotter in the sun, given the 9,200' altitude), then cooled down to 50-55 at night. It can rain a bit, but usually the sun would make an appearance.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most people with kids seemed happy.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. The U.S. Embassy is huge and there are many other missions and NGOs in the city, but it's not a cohesive community.
2. Morale among expats:
Most people seemed to like living in Ecuador.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Ecuadorians are very family-oriented and don't seem terribly eager to welcome in foreigners. But I had a great time with my expat friends...good bars, restaurants, in-home entertaining, day-trips.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Definitely a good city for families. The experience of singles seemed to depend on the quality of other expats...it was difficult to make meaningful relationships with Ecuadorians. They spend a lot of time with their extended families and didn't seem open to making friends with expats. They were friendly, just kept a distance.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Horrible. Still a very closeted place, with very few bars or clubs focused on the gay community. Perfectly safe for gays, as long as you don't display affection in public.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Society tends to look down on darker-complected people, especially their indigenous population, but most expats didn't experience many problems.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Went to the Galapagos, camped alongside a volcano, river rafted, spent many holidays at nice beach areas.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The old colonial part of Quito is one of the best-maintained in Latin America (still not much to do down there other than sight-see, but it's pretty). Great place for day trips. Volcanic spas nearby in Papallacta. Ziplining, ATVs, butterflies, and tubing in Mindo. Large indigenous market in Otavalo and leather-goods in Cotocachi. Many nice haciendas have been converted into hotels in the countryside. Cotopaxi national park is beautiful. It's possible to hike to the top of Pichincha volcano on the edge of town (the peak's over 15,000'). Baños is a nice weekend get-away. And most beaches are 5-6 hours drive from Quito. Cuenca is a bit further, but it and Cajas National Park are extraordinary. Great place for excursions. Of course, there's the Galapagos islands, which are a must-see.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Lots of "artesanias," but you can only have so many of those. Alpaca blankets were a great versatile gift. Nice art market in Parque el Ejido. Flowers are dirt cheap (5 dozen roses and mixed cut flowers for $25).
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Great day trips outside of Quito (Mindo, Papallacta, Otavalo). The country is incredibly beautiful. Nice beaches, volcanoes, rainforests, and, of course, the Galapagos.
11. Can you save money?
If you don't eat at the nice restaurants or travel around the country much, you could definitely save some money in Quito.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Politically it's getting a bit hairy, but I'd definitely go back. Much to complain about, but much to enjoy. I found it very easy to live there. It's a beautiful country, but you have to be sure to get out of Quito.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
snow boots/winter gear.
3. But don't forget your:
camping/outdoor gear, vases for all the flowers, bike for the "Ciclovia" every Sunday.
