Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Report of what it's like to live there - 07/01/10
Personal Experiences from Rio De Janeiro, Brazil
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Not the first expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Connections on all major U.S. carriers through Washington, Houston, Miami, Charlotte and with TAM Brazilian Airlines from New York, Miami and Orlando. A flight of approximately 8-10 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of U.S. Government employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing continues to be one of the major morale issues in Rio de Janeiro. Buildings, especially in upper-class Zona Sul, are literally right on top of each other with no space in between. Many consulate employees end up with sub-par, appalling housing. Officers have been known to be left for months without hot water, with various maintenance problems, ranging from non-functioning air conditioners when it's over 100F outside, to being unable to get washers/dryers, to water leaks, to electrical hazards. Historically, officers spend too much time of their workdays dealing with the management section, which usually leads to a very high degree of frustration. This is due partially to the lack of funding and partially to management's unwillingness and inability to deal with the problems.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
One would be surprised at how expensive Rio de Janeiro is. Expect to pay 25-50 percent more than you would in Washington for quite a few of the items. And there is no VAT return. Supermarkets, like Walmart, Sendas, and Carrefour, tend to carry most of the produce one would need, but the conditions in them often are not very sanitary. One supermarket with a better selection of fruits and vegetables is Horti Fruti, although it seems to be slightly more expensive than the others.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Insect repellent. Detergents (if you are looking for specific kinds). Ethnic food items. Remember that the food items here are priced much higher than in the U.S., so stock up.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
One can find McDonald's, KFC, and some local fast food restaurants. Upscale restaurants tend to be expensive, and the food is not memorable.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Lots of various exotic insects. If your apartment has windows that do not close (many of the consulate's apartments suffer from poor maintenance) be prepared to find all kinds of creatures -ants, geckoes, bats, just to name a few.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO at the U.S. Consulate. Count on 4-6 weeks, and there have been incidents of mail being stolen at the airport, burned in fire, etc. The diplomatic pouch takes about the same time, but it seems to be a safer alternative. Or try Brazilian mail. It's faster on the outgoing shipments to the U.S.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but they are very expensive. Be prepared to pay upwards of BrR 300/month for a more modern facility.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There have been incidents of credit-card cloning, even in major hotels. The U.S. Consulate has an ATM inside.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
TV through cable or satellite. You get quite a few U.S. channels in English.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. The vast majority of Brazilians, even in the educated upper class, either don't speak English or prefer not to speak English. Spanish might help a little, but you really need Portuguese.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. Rio de Janeiro is still far from the U.S. or Western Europe when it comes to catering to those with physical disabilities. You often see beggars missing legs, or having other physical deformities, who beg for money on street corners.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Affordable - yes. Safe? Watch the Brazilian movie called "Bus 174" about the hijacking of a bus in Rio. Not that it happens all the time, but it's not a safe city for taking public transportation. That being said, there are consulate employees who take buses all the time and have not had any problems. Taxis are more or less equivalent in price to D.C.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Gas is expensive, and roads are acceptable (unless you want to drive to small towns outside of Rio). You don't need an SUV. VW is very popular here. Smaller cars come handy when looking for parking. The parking spots inside the buildings tend to be very tight.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet normally comes in a package with TV and phone and is priced around US$100-150. Be prepared for the internet to go down due to various technical problems, and then good luck getting assistance.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are provided by the consulate. Sometimes the consulate forgets to pay the bill, and you cannot place any outgoing phone calls. Sometimes the networks go down. As Brazilians say "Se Deus Quiser", or God Willing things will work out.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. The labor market is very competitive, and there are hardly enough jobs for the locals.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business attire at work. Shorts and flip-flops everywhere else.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Lots. One has to be prepared not to wear a watch and not to carry a wallet or any other valuables unless you are fully ready to part with them. There are regular incidents of expatriates -- as well as tourists -- being attacked or carjacked. This can happen anywhere in the city.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There are numerous health concerns in Rio, ranging from periodic dengue epidemics to asbestos in the U.S. Consulate building. Employees are often told not to be concerned, since the amounts of asbestos are allegedly low. Private hospitals provide ok facilities and care, but they are expensive since you have to pay out of pocket. Dental care is of acceptable Western standards.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is mostly acceptable near the ocean. However, there are a number of areas along the canals, Lagoa, and on the way to the international airport, where the water is polluted by sewage and smells bad.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It can get very hot in January-April. May and June, in what is winter in Brazil, tend to be the nicest months, while the chance of rain during October-December is high.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nannies are readily available and can be employed part-time or full-time at a cost of approximately US$40-60/day.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium.
2. Morale among expats:
In the private sector, the morale seems to be much higher than that of USG employees. Again, the low morale at the U.S. Consulate has largely to do with the lack of funding, and poor management.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Singles or couples without kids tend to go out a lot, and there are quite a few choices of restaurants.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Rio can be very challenging due to the above-mentioned security issues. Many singles who come to Brazil, though, enjoy the local dating scene.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. Brazilians are very liberal in their attitudes. It is advertised as a gay mecca, although there is a lack of organized gay activities in Rio de Janeiro. There is a gay section of the Ipanema beach at Farme de Amoedo.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Although Brazil claims not to have any racial problems, the racial divide still exists. Due partially to demographics, most of the household help and nannies are black, partially because a lot of them come from the much poorer North-East of Brazil. While Brazil is overwhelmingly Roman Catholic, evangelical churches have increased membership in recent years, especially among the poor. Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo are home to fairly sizeable Jewish communities.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Trips to Iguazu Falls, the Amazon, and Argentina. Local travel is expensive, distances are great, and domestic airfares are not cheap. One can drive to Sao Paulo in about 5 hours, and to the colonial towns of Minas Gerais in 3-5 hours.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lapa antique fair on the first Saturday of the month. Hippie Fair every Saturday, drinking coconut water at the beach.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Art, hammocks and gemstones.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Someone in Rio de Janeiro has to be into all of the beach-related activities. Everything revolves around the beach, so don't come here if you are looking for cultural opportunities (Buenos Aires and Sao Paulo might be better choices). There are some spectacular landscapes amid, unfortunately, numerous slums that are a part of Rio.
11. Can you save money?
Absolutely not.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No. Rio is a beautiful city to visit, but I would not want want to repeat the nightmare experience of working at the consulate.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter clothes, skis, watch, wallet, and high expectations.
3. But don't forget your:
swimwear, flip-flops, t-shirts, garbage bags, microwave, electronics and -- last but not least -- patience. Electronics and electrical appliances are prohibitively expensive in Brazil.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Fernando Henrique Cardoso "The Accidental President"
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
"Bossa Nova" if you want to fall in love with Rio, "City of God" for a dose of reality.
