Hyderabad, India Report of what it's like to live there - 11/20/14
Personal Experiences from Hyderabad, India
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. One prior expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
U.S.A.
It's a very long trip from the U.S. Especially if you are trying to import a pet. Depending on your Fly America availability, connections are through London, Frankfurt, or Dubai.
3. How long have you lived here?
2012-2014.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Hyderabad has enjoyed a boom in residential construction providing some good housing options. For U.S. government employees, housing may be stand-alone houses within a gated community or a spacious apartment. Commute times differ and can be anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are some small supermarkets where pricey imported goods can be found. Good beef is understandably hard to find. The open air markets have fresher produce but leafy greens are very difficult to find. Many expats grow their own lettuce. Filling your grocery list can be a full-time job as you may have to hit up multiple grocery stores or markets to find everything. For those without access to the Embassy's commissary, alcohol is limited and incredibly expensive.
For those with access to the commissary and the diplomatic pouch, you should be able to get almost anything you need. The quality will be questionable but it's better than nothing.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Having the diplomatic pouch made things easy but you can't ship liquids or certain things with batteries. You will want to ship battery back up units for the frequent daily power outages, lots and lots of booze, liquid medicines and personal care items like soap, shampoo, deoderant, etc. We shipped TP and trash bags as the local brands leave much to be desired.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Plenty of both but forget about finding a decent hamburger. Hyderabad is a hidden gym of quality restaurants. Explore widely.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Tropical diseases such as dengue and chikungunya are major problems. We invested in a number of electric bug swatters and had a nightly ritual of ruthlessly hunting down mosquitos in our bedrooms. This is a tropical climate with tropical insects - expect there to be bugs.
Although they aren't insects - reptiles can also be a problem. Specifically snakes. Hyderabad is in India and yes, there are cobras. Sometimes in your back yard. If snakes are a problem for you then you should strongly consider living somewhere that is not India. Or adopt a mongoose.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The diplomatic pouch can require anything between one and four weeks for one-way travel.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Variable quality but very cheap. US$200 to $300 a month for maids, cooks, drivers, etc.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The U.S. Consulate has a serviceable gym for employees and many of the apartment complexes also have gyms. I can't speak as to the quality of commercial gyms.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
No real problems with either. ATMs that accept your card may be scarce and may also have a ridiculously low withdrawal limit. The U.S. Consulate has a Bank of America inside where employees can cash checks.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
For Christians, some Catholic and more protestant services are available. Plenty of both Sunni and Shia mosques and, of course, Hindu temples. Sorry Jews, you are out of luck.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Some Hindi and/or Telugu to be polite and amaze your audience but not necessary.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Very much so. Accessibility is not a priority.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Rickshaws are cheap and plentiful but you won't get very far.
Radio and airort taxis are safe - I wouldn't hail one off the street.
City buses - lol. Intercity buses and trains are available for the adventurous and those with lots of time. Women should avoid these unless traveling in groups or looking to test their self-defense skills.
For US$50 more you can take a cheap local flight and arrive at your destination 20 hours earlier. Your call.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Buy from another diplomat unless you are a masochist who enjoys byzantine government paperwork requirements. Most of your driving will be in the city on tolerable roads so you won't need a truck.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Available? Yes. Expensive? No. Reliable...not so much. The broadband is fantastic for the five or six days a week that is works. We purchased a 3G wireless plan for backup.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell coverage is generally good in Hyderabad. You will have to get a local sim card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Pets do not need to be quarantined and there is a good vet in town. On a side note, for those of you subject to Fly America, shipping a pet out of Hyderabad can be an expensive nightmare.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No.
For diplomats, the U.S. and India technically have a bilateral work agreement. Good luck with that. There is employment available at the Consulate for accompanying spouses. Some of the jobs may be more intellectually rewarding than others.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Infinite.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For work - business casual. For public it's quite conservative for both men and women. No shorts and flip-flops here. Women tend to wear long skirts, dresses, pants, or leggings and tops with sleeves.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There have been a number of terrorist attacks in Hyderabad during the past 10 years including a bombing in 2013. Westerners are not specifically targeted but you will notice that security is tight at places such as hotels and shopping malls.
Women should take extra precautions when going out or traveling, especially alone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Hyderabad is relatively healthy compared to Delhi. As a personal anecdote I was sick far less wile living in Hyderabad than I was in D.C. Dengue and other tropical diseases are a concern. Delhi belly is inevitable.
Medical quality is very good with some good private hospitals and doctors trained in the U.S. Dental care is also quality and inexpensive.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very poor but excellent by Indian standards. You will want air purifiers for your home.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Warm and sunny most of the year round. Hyderabad has the best climate in India if you can stand the heat. June through October is the monsoon with almost daily showers. April and May can be brain-meltingly hot but the rest of the year is pleasant.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a number of international schools available and most parents seem pleased with the quality, at least at the primary level. The high schools also seem pretty good but definitely do your research on any accreditation issues.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No personal experience but a number of preschools are available and frequently utilized by expats.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Many of the schools have programs available but it's nothing like the interscholastic programs of the U.S.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Expat community is small and varied. American expats seem to be either executives with families or young bros who are there for the money. The latter can usually be observed unwinding from another 80 hour work week on Sundays sitting poolside chugging vodka and reinforcing American stereotypes. There is a large French population whose friendship should be cultivated in order to be invited to their dinners. There are a few Brits, Aussies and now Turks. Oh, the Iranians are there too so you have that going for you.
There are some very active expat groups such as the HYTEA group. For any trailing spouses without jobs, groups like the HYTEA can be very supportive and useful.
The Consulate's morale was variable. In the two years we were there, post experienced five curtailments. This is a post with only twenty-some officers.
Some people love India but for many it can be a difficult place to live.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Hyderabad isn't known for its cultural highlights. Social life is rather limited in comparison to Delhi or Mumbai. Travel as much as you can and get a Netflix account.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a good city for families, especially those with small children. You can hire an army of domestic staff to help with children and still save for their college funds.
Couples who enjoy travel and don't mind a little hardship also do well, especially if both have incomes. However, if work is an important consdieration for your other half or he/she faints at the thought of being more than one mile from the nearest Starbucks then Hyderabad is probably not for you.
Singles will probably find Hyderabad wanting on a number of levels. The expat community is small and tends to be families. Dating, especially for women, will be challenging. Nightlife locales and other cultural hubs where singles tend to mingle are scant. On the other hand, for younger folks this can be your opportunity to pay down any debt you have and get a good start on that retirement. And Bankok is only a few hours away for your, ahem...needs.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Homosexuality is illegal in India. No, seriously, it's against the law and punishable by imprisonment. That being said - it's not usually an enforced law. But for anybody without diplomatic immunity it should be a consideration as you never know when some local politician might decide this law needs to be enforced to score political points.
Hyderabad does have an underground LGBT scene but it is far underground. Inside the closet under a trapdoor hidden in a bunker underground. Single LGBT expats will have an even greater challenge than straight folks in finding comfortable locales to mingle.
The one advantage of India's conservative approach to LGBT issues is that, at least in Hyderabad, those who are gay likely won't face public discrimination because homosexuality is so far out of the public conciousness that it's not even a consideration. Being foreign makes you queer enough that nobody is going to consider your sexual preference.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, yes, and yes but generally not for foreigners.
In India, caste, race, religion, and gender define your identity. Your identity as "foreigner" will trump the rest of these issues but be prepared for very blunt questions from strangers asking about your race or religion.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Sampling Indian cuisines and a lot of travel. India offers an unlimited variety of travel opportunities and when you've had enough of India (which will happen), it's a short flight to Dubai or Bangkok.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Travel, travel, and travel some more. There are two hidden gems in the region - Hampi and Aurangabad. Visit them both.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Bidriware, textiles, art, and typical Indian gegaws.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The food is fantastic, living is relatively cheap, you can afford a small army of domestic staff, the climate is (usually) great and Hyderabad is a perfect launchpad for tourism throughout India and South Asia.
10. Can you save money?
Yes but you probably won't. Employing domestic staff, eating well, and lots of travel will sap your budget.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
If I had one word to describe India it would be "intense."
From the moment of your first arrival to your wheels up, life is a full-on assault on all your senses. You are constantly bombarded with the most intense sights, sounds, smells, taste, and feels and there is no escape. It can be disorienting, terrifying, depressing, delightful, frustrating, exhausting, and exhilarating - all at the same time.
India is many things but it is never dull. I was relieved to complete my time in India but now, sometimes in a quiet moment, I find myself missing the colors, the tastes, the sounds, and the general insanity that is India. Compared to India, life back in the U.S. can seem technicolor. Then I take a breath of fresh clean air as I contemplate the clear blue skies and think again.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. But would I do it again? No.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Preconceptions about India, human nature, the value of human life, and what constitutes human happiness and human dignity. Spaghetti straps, miniskirts. Personal space.
4. But don't forget your:
Patience, compassion, and sense of adventure.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Stealing from a previous poster:
White Mughals: Love and Betrayal in Eighteenth-Century India
Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure
Behind the Beautiful Forevers: Life, Death, and Hope in a Mumbai Undercity
6. Do you have any other comments?
I thought I was a seasoned traveler and expat. Then I went to India. Life there can be tough. Some people thrive on it - they live for the intensity. Most find it challenging. Many just can't hack it. Life in India is raw and uncensored. You learn what poverty is, what humanity is, and what humans are capable of doing to other humans. You also learn that humans are capable of great and beautiful things - when they try.
