Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 04/24/13
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our 5th expat experience. We have lived in Sevilla, Spain; Belfast, Northern Ireland; Yamaguchi, Japan and Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We consider our home base to be Washington DC, but our family is in Texas. Washington DC is a full 24 hours of travel at best. Getting on to other cities can add about 6-8 hours of additional travel, depending on where in the US you're going.
3. How long have you lived here?
We have been here 10 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
My husband is a US Embassy employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Almost all families are in houses, but some are in newer apartments. The houses are old, and many have longstanding structural, plumbing or electrical problems. That said, they are all unique and kind of quirky---and have hardwood floors. If you're willing to just accept this as reality, then you can really enjoy where you live. The houses all have fantastic yards. Most people have beautiful gardens, and almost everyone grows vegetables. Some people have fruit trees. The commute time to the embassy averages about 30 minutes, but it can be much, much longer with traffic. It is possible to bike (or even run) to the embassy through the rice fields (avoiding the main roads - mountain bike recommended). For those who are sporty, this is an excellent option, as it is safe and the route is beautiful.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get almost anything you want here, but you rarely, if ever, will find American brands. Most brands are South African or French. Our friends coming from other African posts think the supermarkets here are great; those coming from Latin American, Asia or Europe seem to complain more. If you're with the embassy you can order many things through the pouch. You also get a consumables shipment. There is an awesome farm that sells organic produce and farm-fresh eggs and naturally raised chickens, ducks, rabbits and sometimes pork. You can order from their website and they deliver to Ivandry! Each of the three main supermarket chains has a small organic section. The cost at supermarkets depends on what you buy. If you shop simply and don't go overboard on imported goods, then the costs are high but not outrageous. Most imported goods are shockingly expensive - $10 for cereal, $5 for a small bag of shredded cheese, $8 for a small bag (1/4 cup) bag of walnuts. It's kind of annoying at times to have to pay so much, but we don't spend our money on much else, so it hasn't been that big of a deal.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Maybe tires. We shipped our preferred toiletries and a few food items that we weren't sure we would be able to get, but we could have been fine without them (we would have simply paid more here).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are no fast food restaurants - no chain restaurants of any kind, really. But there are lots and lots of great restaurants with wonderful atmosphere and good food. The food tends to be very French.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are lots of mosquitoes from July through November. While there is no malaria in Tana the mosquitoes are very aggressive, loud and painful. You must sleep under a mosquito net, and even then the constant buzzing is really annoying. But, from December through May/June the mosquitoes all but disappear - you can go without a net, especially if you have window screens (all US Embassy housing has screens). Other than that, there are the typical bugs: ants, roaches (no hissing ones that we have seen), and lots of very interesting bugs that you've never seen before. Except for the mosquitoes, the insects aren't bothersome, and most are actually quite fascinating.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The US Embassy has pouch but no DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Domestic help is readily available and extremely affordable. This is a very, very poor country and even if you're paying your staff at the top of the local income scale, the pay is well below what you would be used to paying almost anywhere else in the world. There is a sizable Malagasy nanny/maid community that works primarily with Americans. They tend to be kind (loving with children) and warm-hearted. Many of them speak English, but if you have some basic French it's an advantage.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several gyms. The US Embassy also has a gym, a pool and basketball courts. There are tennis courts in Ivandry.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use credit cards without too much worry. Most places take Visa but nothing else. ATMs are relatively safe, but most official Americans use the embassy cashier.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I think there are Catholic and maybe LDS services in English, but I'm not sure.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Many people have satellite tv, but we don't. I have no idea about the cost.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by here in French, and it's an advantage to have it in Tana, but Malagasy is without question the primary language. My husband and I both feel that our French skills (we had 5 months of French at FSI) have gone down hill since arriving here. If you have any opportunity to study Malagasy while you're here (even to just pick up a few words) it would be well worth your time.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many - it would be practically impossible to get around the city.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No. Robbery and theft are common. Taxis might be slightly safer than buses, but the taxis are all Renaults from the 1960s and are very lacking in general safety features. US Embassy personnel are forbidden from using public transportation of any kind.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
4x4 is ideal - especially if you plan on traveling outside of Tana. Smaller 4x4s are better for the small, winding streets of Tana, but you can get by fine with a mid-size.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The regular internet service is quite slow but passable for reading email, news and Facebook. It is annoyingly slow for watching YouTube videos. Skype works fine. It costs about $70 per month. Fiberoptic connection is available, but that is much more expensive - however, those who have it swear it's the key to their sanity. There are at least 3 internet providers. Most US Embassy families use Telma.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Cell phones are the norm here and are affordable. If you bring a phone from the States it's easy to get it unlocked for a small fee.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There is one good kenneling facility run by a South African woman. Her vets on staff are okay. She is incredibly loving with animals, knowledgeable and helpful. We kenneled our dog with her for 10 days, and the care was excellent.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I'm not sure. Probably not - the economic situation is quite bad.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Casual. Dress at the embassy is normal business wear.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The security situation here is constantly in flux. Around Ivandry you can safely walk/bike/drive without any worry during the day. In the evening, you could walk safely from a friend's house, but it wouldn't be wise to do it alone. Outside of Ivandry in the evening/night you wouldn't want to walk, and even when driving you must be very alert. During the day we feel safe going just about anywhere, but we always lock our doors and remain alert. Downtown at night it would not be safe at all to walk anywhere, but driving with friends to popular restaurants or bars is rarely a problem. Kidnappings occasionally happen, but they seem to remain isolated to the business community. Petty crime is a problem everywhere, but for the most part you will feel safe if you remain aware of your surroundings. Also, there's a history of periodic political violence, although the political situation has been relatively stable since we've been here.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
People seem to have problems here with environmental allergies from mold, pollen and dust. I think that if you are asthmatic it might be difficult here. Everyone we know gets mild to moderate stomach problems from time to time - usually from ingesting something that wasn't properly cleaned. You do not need to take anti-malarials in Tana, but you should take them when traveling many places outside of the capital. The embassy has a good clinic, but all major medical problems must be taken care of by medevac (usually to South Africa). Medical care here is very limited.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
I would say it depends. In general the pollution is quite bad. Most of the U.S.Embassy housing is in the Ivandry neighborhood on the north end of Tana. This provides a bit of protection from the pollution compared to other parts of the city. In the city center the pollution is bad enough that you wouldn't want to drive with your windows down. But typically, around our home, we can have the windows open or enjoy being outside and (except for days when people are burning trash) the pollution isn't especially bothersome.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
As with anything, this depends on your perspective. We find the weather here to be very mild and one of the highlights of living here. Summers (during the North American winters) are rainy with some really incredible afternoon storms. It can get warm, but not too terribly hot. The humidity is usually not that bad. The winters here (during North American summers) are dreary at times and very, very dry and dusty. It can be quite cold at night, but during the day it's comparable to Colorado in the summer.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Almost all US Embassy children go to the American School of Antananarivo (the French school is also an option, but I only know of one family sending their children there). The American School is located in Ivandry and is easy access from all of the family housing - you can walk (although part of the walk is on a busy road), and there is also an embassy shuttle that picks up the children in the morning and takes them home after school. The primary campus houses grades 1 through 12. Preschool, Pre-K and Kindergarten are in another villa about 1/2 mile from the main campus (in the neighborhood). The school day is from 7:45AM until 2:45PM. The school is working to become PYP certified. I would say overall the American School is average. The major advantage is that it is close and the community is small. Our children have really benefitted from such a small campus - they feel able to navigate the school and know many of the teachers by name. The principal and director know every child by name(!) and there is a very informal feel to the setting. There seems to be a real enthusiasm from the community and many opportunities for parents to get involved with the school. Academically, I think the school is fine but not spectacular. There is a real hit-or-miss situation with the teachers - some are the best we have seen anywhere, and others are surprisingly uninspiring. So, from this perspective, it feels like an average American public school. All in all, we're happy because our kids are happy, but we won't leave here considering it to have been the best educational experience they have had (nor the worst).
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I think this is minimal. There is one teacher who does some special-ed instruction, but my impression is that it is very limited. It would definitely be worthwhile to look into this by contacting the school directly if you have a child with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Most people send their preschool-age children either to the Early Childhood Center (ECC) at the American School or to Kids Academy (where instruction is primarily in French). The ECC is a bit expensive, so Americans tend to use it only for Pre-K and above. We have a child in Pre-K at ASA, and he has made great friends and is enjoying his time there. There is only very minimal foreign language (e.g. French) instruction, since most of the children are learning English for the first time. Kids' Academy is much, much cheaper, and all of the children I have known who go there (and there are many expat kids who go) have learned a great deal of French. It is more like a really nice daycare. Based on comments of friends who have their children there, I would say that if your child is under age 4, this is an ideal setting.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but they are very limited. The ASA offers after-school activities (mostly for grades 2 and higher), but the schedule is completely dependent upon finding volunteers to sponsor the activities. And, frankly, the activities are really just a chance for kids to play - the quality of actual instruction/coaching is limited. This seems to be fine for elementary-school kids, but if you have a middle schooler or high schooler that is really into sports, then they will have a hard time with this. Soccer players will have much more luck than those who play other team sports. There are opportunities for kids to participate in non-school-related activities, but it can be difficult to find them, and the quality, again, is hit or miss (and the instruction is almost always in French). There is a horseback-riding facility that gets high marks from the French community, and there are excellent private music instructors (especially violin and piano).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Very large - mostly European (French). Some Chinese and Russian. There are very few Americans.
2. Morale among expats:
This varies widely. LIke anywhere, it just depends on who you talk to. This can be a difficult post - it's far away from everywhere, the cost of travel in the country and out is astronomical, it's very, very poor and there is not much to do. But, within our social circle people are really happy - we have all kind of decided to make the best of it. The advantage is that we all have children between the ages of 10 and infant and we just get together and enjoy time having a drink and letting the kids play. And, despite the uncertain political situation, it's pretty safe here. The climate is nice. It's a lot like living in a small town - and the morale reflects that.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
As previously mentioned, the best thing to do is hang out with friends. The upside is that because there isn't a lot to do people are always organizing events (sports, game nights, book clubs, etc.). The CLO at the embassy organizes tons of events year-round that, compared to other posts, are attended by embassy and non-embassy, Americans and non-Americans alike.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
To be honest, Tana can be a "boring" place to live. There is not much to do if you're looking for nightlife. So I think families tend to fare much better - especially if they have kids in the American School. We have found that we have made lifelong friends here - both within the embassy and without. I think that if you're not connected with the school it would be a lot harder to find things to do, and in that sense it would be more difficult for singles or couples without children.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There is some anti-gay prejudice among the Malagasy population. We have gay friends here who seem to have had no problems, but I don't know specifics about how they were personally received by the larger culture/community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, but they tend to be within the Malagasy community. Generally, the darker your skin the more likely you are to be discriminated against, but this seems to apply more to Malagasy than to expats. There is a large ethnic Indo-Pakistani community (some Muslim, some Hindu) and there is a certain amount of prejudice against them from other Malagasy. There also is a certain amount of discrimination against anyone who is perceived to be Chinese or African. In general, there is the assumption that "vazaha" (foreigners) are French, and there is certainly an amount of dislike that can go with that. There are really no apparent prejudices against Americans, but people may not even consider the fact that you could be American.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Without a doubt the highlight of our time here has been the friends we have made. This is a very tight-knit community from our perspective, and because it can often feel like a small town, you find yourself seeing people you know all the time. Unlike the other places we have lived, here we have found that our social circle is much more diverse (i.e., not all American and not all Embassy). This is a nice change. Unfortunately, these highlights have little to do with Tana or Madagascar in particular....except for the fact that, perhaps, with so little to really do here you find yourself spending more time with friends and family, compared to other posts where there is a lot to do.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are some good restaurants and fun places to enjoy a drink with friends. For the most part, the best thing to do in Tana is to make really good friends and hang out at each others' houses. We find that every weekend we are completely booked up with parties, dinners, brunches and playdates, but we almost never go out. Shopping can be interesting at the local markets, but it's not something you would do often. There are some fun places within 4 hours where you can go to spend a long weekend. These places have opportunities to see lemurs, hike and relax.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are tons of cool things to buy here - Raffia baskets, wood crafts, embroidered goods, stones.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
The primary advantage is simply that this is Madagascar - one of those places you will likely never go unless you're doing a tour here. There are lots of amazing things to see, but, they are much more difficult to get to than we ever imagined. The weather in "Tana" is perfect. The culture is unique, and Tana itself, while a bit rough and tumble, is quite interesting. Being here also gives you a chance to travel to other islands in the Indian Ocean at a (relatively) inexpensive rate.
11. Can you save money?
Yes - there is not much to do. But, if you do travel a lot this might be more difficult.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but we wouldn't want to come back here for a future tour. We have made wonderful friends here, and really, it's Madagascar! But it's very far from home. I think it's safe to say across the board that the distance of Madagascar from everywhere, combined with the cost of travel, is the single most significant factor that makes this a difficult post. Our kids have been incredibly happy here - I think it will be more difficult for them to leave than for my husband and I.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
skateboard (there's limited pavement here), your desire for order and infrastructure, and your assumption that you will be traveling far and wide through the Malagasy bush. You can travel here and have wonderful adventures, but it is very expensive and the infrastructure is quite lacking - this is not a place especially designed for tourism.
3. But don't forget your:
sense of adventure (despite the difficulty, it's worthwhile to try to travel here), warm clothes (it's chilly on winter evenings), Malagasy phrase book, and your patience.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
I think there is a British or perhaps a National Geographic documentary, but I'm not sure. The Dreamworks movies don't resemble Madagascar in any way.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
None really - there aren't many written about Madagascar. It's good to have a good guide book (Bradt 
6. Do you have any other comments?
The current political situation is very difficult, and life here could change in an instant - for Malagasy and expats alike. It's unfortunate because you can look around and see such promise, but decades of mismanagement have left much of the country inaccessible and the population increasingly poor and uneducated. Geographic isolation and economic desperation make the future of Madagascar unfortunately uncertain. It's very sad because without a doubt this is a beautiful country with incredible people. It's worth it to consider a tour here, but come prepared for uncertainty.
