Antananarivo, Madagascar Report of what it's like to live there - 04/16/25
Personal Experiences from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was not my first experience. My first overseas assignment was London, UK.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
East coast USA. It is long, and expensive. You can do it in one stop via Paris, but that is the most expensive flight, or two stops for cheaper. Takes at least two days though and no less than $1000. Travel on and off of this island is the hardest part of being here. Limited flights and expensive. We have direct flights to South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, France, Dubai, Seychelles, and Mauritius, and that has doubled since I have been here.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Almost two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing for the dip community and a lot of expats are in one neighborhood and it is some of the nicest housing in the city. The neighborhood is safe as well. Housing ranges from apartments, to smaller/modern homes, to large villas. Commute times are about 30-45 minutes in the morning and 45 minutes to 1.5 hours in the evening.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local products are very cheap, imported products are expensive. We spend about $100 a week on groceries which I used to think was expensive, but may be relatively normal for US prices now. You can spend less if you do not buy as many imported goods. Products also tend to come and go so you cannot pick a favorite of anything and expect it to be there every week. Each grocery trip is a new experience to see what products are gone and what new ones have arrived.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There are a couple of items we mail to ourselves. American snacks, sauces, brown sugar, and peanut butter primarily. You can find most things you need here, just may need to go to a few different stores or wait.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a ton of great restaurants here. A lot of French, a few Korean and Lebanese. This is a place where word of mouth is how you learn of places as there are so many unique and hidden gems that it would take a lifetime to discover them all. There is a delivery service with a couple of restaurants, you message them via whatsapp and they place your order and pick it up. You can get pretty much anything if you have a whatsapp contact.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Ants and crickets have their seasons. Everyone has various ways of dealing with them.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Through diplomatic mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is wonderful and very cheap. You can pay someone here for a decent wage and it will be a fraction of the cost of what you would pay elsewhere. Most households have drivers, gardeners, housekeepers, and nannies.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
There are several people who walk and bike to work through the rice paddies. Generally safe to do so as long as you are not flashing your wealth and being aware of your surroundings. There is a hiking group that go out most weekends. Other than that a lof of people walk throughout our neighborhood and it is safe.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
American standard ones are expensive, 200-250 euros a month. There are plenty of other options around, most just won't have air conditioning. The embassy has a gym, which is what I use for free.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
You can use credit cards at larger established businesses such as grocery stores, hotels, and some more popular restaurants. This is still very much a cash based country. There are ATMs... I have heard they frequently do not have money in them. We have an ATM at the embassy and a cashier to get cash out.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Greetings in Malagasy go a long way. You will not survive here without a little French. Adjusting without French was very tough. I have noticed more places having one or two staff members that speak a little English. The embassy has language classes for both French and Malagasy. I am sure there are local classes too, but I am not sure of any specifics.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. The sidewalks are often nonexistent and the roads are poorly kept up. It is also quite hilly. That being said though, most people drive and/or hire a driver.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No trains or trams. Local buses are prohibited. Taxis are discouraged because they are usually is bad shape, however they are affordable and I heard there is a new taxi app.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Vehicles with hired clearance are recommended if you want to drive outside of the city. Would not recommend electric ones as the power grid here is not stable and there are not any charging stations that I know of. Carjackings are not very common. DO not bring anything you do not want to get scratched or dented.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. There are few different plans and companies to choose from with varying rates and speeds. We have been pretty happy with ours. We pay about $60 a month and are able to stream and play video games okay. Install is pretty quick.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We have a T-mobile international plan and it works fine here. The cell service is not great in general, so getting a local sum does not really improve the LTE we get from T-mobile. It is good to have a local phone number though.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, there are a couple of vets here who frequently work with expats so they understand the import and export rules. There is also a great kennel service/trainer called XK9. There are a lot of stray dogs here, so if you are looking for a dog, come here and take your pick! They are generally not aggressive, but can cause problems when walking your pets near them.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Locally salary are so small. Majority of the country lives on less than $2 a day. Most spouses that I know work from home telecommuting, work at the embassy, or do not work.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are several volunteer opportunities to teach English and/or help at various shelters and schools.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress code at work is business casual, occasional suits for high level meetings. In public it is casual.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crime is common. Pick-pocketing and purse snatching are probably the most common.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Rabies vaccines are recommended due to all of the stray dogs and animals. Malaria is prevalent in lower areas and on the coast. Thankfully we do not have to take antimalarials year round, only when traveling to certain areas. You can get an ultrasound, X-ray, and MRI here, but then you would need to go to South Africa to have anything done about it. Not confident in their ability to read the results accurately either. One plus is South Africa is a nice and fairly quick getaway. if you do not need frequent medical care.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can be bad during burning season, which is when they make bricks. Following that is rainy season where is gets much better for awhile.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Any information will be in French and/or Malagasy and probably not clearly marked.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Low morale depending on the people and the support system you have.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather here is very pleasant. We have a hot and rainy season during the summer here (Oct-Feb) with temps 80s-90s and a cooler and dry winter (March-Sept) temps 60s-80s.Lows get down into the 40s in peak winter, but only for a few days. We are at elevation of 4,500 feet.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an American school. British school, and French school here. People tend to be happy with the schools and many families even extend.
2. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
They are available, not sure on anything additional.
3. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. I know the schools have sports and several kids take music lessons and karate.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I am not sure about relative size... the Americans are probably the largest with around 100 at the embassy and other NGOs. Then there are a few other countries here as well, so maybe around 150 total. People with small children have a very active group among the expat community where the children all spend time together. Morale was pretty good until recently with USAID shutting down.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There is an expat facebook group that is pretty active. There are nanny groups, hiking groups, and yoga groups. That is typically how people meet others.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not great for singles with the language barrier, but I do know some success stories! It is great for families since the schools are good and there is already the established community.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It is tough with the language barrier again. People also live spread out some locals commuting for hours to the embassy. There is some tension with the French still, and around the elections they are typically the ones who are targeted for any crimes.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It is fine. Not great, could be worse.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
It is a beautiful country and the people are very nice and welcoming. Il Saint Marie has been my best trip during my time here. Lovely little island that is quiet and not crowded with the cheap prices of Madagascar. You just have to pay the ridiculous airfare to fly for 50 minutes.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are several places within a few hours drive that are worth checking out. Mantasoa with Lemur Island, Ampefy, and Andasibe. Lemurs!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are a lot of gems and minerals and people to make them into jewelry. Wood art and crafts. Also fabric and having clothes handmade. There is also a lot of cheap Chinese crap.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Pretty inexpensive. Not many people can say they have lived in or been to Madagascar!
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Prepare to feel a bit isolated since it is hard to get off the island and/or to spend a little extra to do so and to travel around. Prepare to be frustrated by the traffic, however getting a driver will help with that a lot. Just enjoy the country for what it is. It can be very sad seeing people so poor and begging for help, but there is no way to give everyone money, so you have to ignore them and try to help in other ways.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. I really enjoyed my time and experience here. I am glad to have had this experience and I am ready for the next place.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
white shoes and clothes. Flashy purses and jewelry (especially gold).
4. But don't forget your:
patience.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Not Madagascar! There are two episodes of house hunters filmed here which are pretty neat and even show some houses in our neighborhood.
