Tokyo, Japan Report of what it's like to live there - 05/24/25
Personal Experiences from Tokyo, Japan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this was my eighth overseas assignment and my third in East Asia Pacific. I have also lived in Mexico, Africa, Europe, and the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
I am originally from the West Coast of the U.S., so it was reasonably easy to get back although if you are with the U.S. Government this is not an R&R post, so all tickets to anywhere are out of pocket. There are many direct flights to most major U.S. cities and anywhere in the world (for the most part). To San Francisco or LA it is 9-11 hours, to Washington or New York it is about 13-14 hours.
3. What years did you live here?
2023-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic Mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Since I was with the U.S.G, we lived on the U.S. Embassy Housing Compound. If you read nothing else, know this: the U.S. Embassy housing compound is all about location. Nestled in one of Tokyo’s most exclusive neighborhoods, it offers easy walking access to the Embassy, supermarkets, restaurants, and public transit. From a geographic standpoint, it’s hard to beat.
That said, the facilities themselves show their age. Built in the early 1980s, the compound includes three high-rise towers and two rows of townhouses. Many of the apartment layouts are outdated and, frankly, puzzling. All units involve steep stairs, and in typical two-bedroom, two-bath apartments, which is common for singles and childless couples. The bathrooms are located on a different floor than the kitchen and living room. This can be particularly frustrating, as there is no restroom on the main living level, requiring frequent stair use for basic needs.
Climate control is another recurring complaint. Heating and cooling are centrally managed for the entire building and change seasonally. You you can only have AC for certain months of the year, and heat for the rest of the year. With increasingly erratic weather patterns, there are often 6–10 weeks a year when the interior temperature is significantly mismatched with the outside climate. It's too hot in spring and early fall, and too cold in transitional weeks.
Mold issues have been reported in various units, and while maintenance is responsive, it’s an ongoing concern in a humid city like Tokyo. While there is some off-compound housing, which is typically for non-DOS agencies or certain senior staff (spacious, modern and still conveniently located), the majority of personnel will be assigned to the compound. The on-site amenities (pool, gym, store, preschool, tennis court) are a definite plus, and families seem to appreciate the convenience and built-in community. However, for couples without children, the environment can feel restrictive or even impersonal—akin to upscale institutional housing.
Bottom line: If you're coming to Tokyo with high expectations for your housing, you may be disappointed. The compound is safe, centrally located, and offers a functional lifestyle. However, the trade-offs in comfort, layout, and temperature control are real. For those with flexibility (particularly non-USG personnel), Tokyo offers a wide range of high-quality housing options, though space comes at a premium. That said, many find Tokyo real estate more reasonably priced than comparable units in cities like New York or San Francisco.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get almost anything in Tokyo if you’re willing to pay the price, although I do not think that Tokyo is nearly as expensive as it used to be. Having said that, fresh produce, especially fruits and vegetables can be pretty pricey. Imported goods can be expensive, especially if you need them in bulk.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing really, but we do not cook much. If you’re here with the USG, you can always go shopping at the bases if you really need some standard U.S. products. Of course, this is not a consumables post.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find almost every cuisine in Tokyo. I use Uber Eats often. Too many restaurants and experiences to list here. Almost every major U.S. fast food chain is represented in Tokyo, as well as luxury chains like Nobu and Joel Robuchon. I found that for two people it was just more reasonable to eat out almost every day than cook, but I also hate cooking. However, most of my colleagues did agree that given the yen-dollar exchange rate, unless you were cooking for a family, it was generally cheaper to eat out than to go grocery shopping. Tokyo has the most Michelin star restaurants of any city in the world.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
I did not have any problem in our apartment, but my colleagues on lower floors and in the townhouses (we were on high floor, each tower has 13), complained about cockroach problems. You see rats on the street, and the U.S. Embassy compound has some kind of snake living in the bushes.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Amazon delivery, certain grocery stores, etc can deliver to the compound and are extremely fast and efficient. Japan post cannot deliver directly to the U.S. Embassy compound, but the mail will be forwarded to the U.S. Embassy. Regular mail from the U.S. comes through DPO.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help in Tokyo can be expensive by any standard, but when factoring in the favorable yen-to-dollar exchange rate, it is often still more affordable than comparable services in the United States. There is an established pool of experienced domestic workers (primarily Filipina and other South and Southeast Asian nationals) available for part-time or full-time work. Many are well-regarded within the expat community and accustomed to working in diplomatic or international households.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
100% safe, Tokyo has tons of parks and green space - people love to jog around the Imperial Palace moat. There are no dedicated bike lanes, but people ride bikes everywhere (my spouse did), and Japanese drivers generally follow road safety laws, so while one should definitely wear a helmet, one should be fine if they follow basic road/traffic safety conventions.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The gym on the U.S. Embassy compound was decent, not amazing, but did the trick. You must pay the Employee Welfare Association annual membership fee to use it and/or any of the other compound facilities. That price is currently in a state of flux, but the first year for us it was $340 (we are a couple), then dropped to $175, and last I heard is that it may be waived going forward(?). Private gyms on the economy are nice and comparable to U.S. prices. Be prepared to follow Japanese etiquette if you choose to use an offsite gem.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most places take credit cards or some form of electronic payment. Some places may not take credit cards, but will take PayPay or one of the Japanese transportation companies electronic payment cars (loaded in Apple pay or similar). Japan has a reputation for being a cash-based society, but that has changed drastically in the last decade.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not religious so can’t comment in too much detail, however most Judeo-Christian religious facilities have English language services as far as I am aware.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
I speak Japanese (since I was a child) so from my perspective I cannot imagine how people come here and survive with no Japanese language ability, but plenty of people manage to survive without it. It can be quite challenging especially outside of Tokyo to get around with non language skills. Having said that, it’s much better than it was 20 years ago. The Embassy offers classes to personnel and family members who are interested.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, while modern buildings have elevators, accessible ramps and bathrooms etc, the city (and country) itself are not very accessible (lots of tiny older buildings where it is simply impossible to get around if you have mobility issues). Even those without them struggle sometimes because spaces are so tight, and for example a lot of tiny streets have no sidewalks. In summary, it is a very difficult country to traverse if you have mobility issues.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Japan has the best and safest public transportation, arguably, in the entire world. The U.S. (and other countries) should be ashamed that they do not have something even as half as good as Japan’s public transportation.
Taxis are plentiful most of the time, albeit can get pricey. There is uber, but as of the time of this publication, the app usually just calls a regular taxi, although it works well (but is the same price as calling a taxi on a taxi app).
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
You do not need a car except for weekend trips (we did not have one during our time there). Japanese drive on the right side of the car, opposite the U.S., but you are allowed to import a left-hand drive car. Japanese people (typically wealthier individuals) like to import left-hand drive cars some even tollbooths are setup to be able to pay/take the ticket from either side of the car (although almost all the tolls are electronic now).
Roads (especially in residential neighborhoods or countryside) can become extremely narrow so be careful about bringing a large SUV. Also, there are tons of excellent used Japanese cars available on the local market (Japanese take excellent care of their cars), that one could purchase if one is interested. Gas is about 6-8 USD a gallon, but diplomats can purchase it tax free at some gas stations, and U.S.G. employees may also purchase it on the base. You can get most major brands serviced here, even American ones, however parts etc. can get extremely pricey..
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
I paid about $70 a month for the internet on the compound, which is actually provided by the U.S. Department of Defense. The internet was extremely fast, faster than one would get in the U.S. for the same price. Local internet on the economy is similar price, but perhaps not as fast, although totally reliable. You can have all setup before you arrive and then show up with a router (or rent one from the Employee Welfare Association) and you can in theory be online from day one.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We have GoogleFi, which worked okay, but not great all the time. We also had Japanese numbers which cost us about $50 a line per month, was fine for data (but slower than the U.S. even though allegedly being “5G”). Japanese cell plans are more affordable on average than the U.S., but come with fewer perks (no unlimited talk/text, and data quickly gets throttled once you hit your limits). Data in general works well, but is a little slower than the U.S. I highly recommend getting a Japanese number as you will not be able to do things, like for example make reservations at some restaurants, if you do not have a Japanese number.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
I think so but we do not have pets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of EFM jobs at the Embassy, but all require security clearances. Lots of local jobs on the market, and for U.S. diplomats there is a bilateral work agreement between the U.S. and Japan for spouses, however jobs generally have to be “professional” in order to qualify, e.g. something that requires a degree. There are jobs for non-Japanese speakers on the local economy if one has good qualifications. Given the exchange rate, pay is generally lower than it would be in the U.S. or Europe. As a note, Japanese minimum wage is also lower than most states in the U.S. and Europe (at current exchange rate the minimum wage in Tokyo is about 10 USD per hour, minimum wages vary by locality in Japan).
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
They definitely exist, but I am not super familiar any.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For any kind of work-related function/event/engagement etc., think formal. Japan is a very formal country, and everyone is always very well put-together. Even on the street in their free time, Japanese people are always very well put-together and do not leave their house looking slovenly.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Virtually zero. Very rarely there are reports of something getting stolen that was left somewhere unattended, but generally speaking you could leave your phone on a table in a busy coffee shop at a coffee shop to hold your seat (and people do), and come back hours later and it would still be there.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Internationally acceptable levels of care and hospitals, although some medical practices will probably seem like something from 50 years ago form a European/U.S. perspective. Any surgery that requires anesthesia means that you will be in the hospital for at least four to five days. Japanese surgeons, however, are some of the best in the world. Some medications are impossible to get in Japan, for example medicine used to treat ADD/ADHD is completely illegally and will result in prison time.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
For a megalopolis with 30 million people it isn’t bad, although there are days in the summer when the air can get smoggy. Also, the gross dust storms and dirty air occasionally blows in from China.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Allergies can be bad during pollen season in the spring. People with dietary restrictions (for example no gluten, or vegans) often struggle as a lot of Japanese restaurants will not accommodate dietary restrictions.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
While it definitely has seasons with EXTREMELY hot summers, the winters tend to be on the milder side (think like Washington DC), and the spring and fall can be quite beautiful.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Like I said, four seasons with extremely HOT, humid, and rainy summers that are only getting worse. It can snow in the winter in Tokyo city, but generally winters are more bearable than Europe or for example the Northeastern U.S. (Winters can be cold, but sunny. It does rain a lot in Japan, but lots of blue sky after the rain.)
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Some of the best international schools in the world. Also, as mentioned, there is a preschool on the U.S. Embassy compound. I do not have kids though so this is the extent of my knowledge.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, most sports as far as I know.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Hundreds of thousands. You can easily make friends and meet people from all over the world. I have encountered so many different nationalities in Tokyo – it is one the highlights, truly a cosmopolitan city.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
My partner used an app to meet people to play soccer so that’s one way. I also networked through diplomatic community. There are apps like “MeetUp” where people organize social events to meet up at bars/restaurants – so that is another way. There are lots of groups/clubs/opportunities.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Everyone seems to like it, and I was married during my time here. Having spent a lot of time in Japan I can say that I think for singles it can be difficult to date and meet locals. However, it’s a big enough city that there is usually something for everyone.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Like I said, easy to meet expats, can be difficult to make friends with Japanese people if you do not speak Japanese. Japanese are very polite, but not always very open and there are a lot of cultural barriers for those new to Japan. Japanese police, however, definitely target foreigners, especially non-white foreigners, for random searches and questioning.
Also, the concept of “politically incorrect” or refraining from saying things that may be perceived as biased or stereotypical is not the same as in the West. While Japanese are more much more sensitive and careful about making statements that could be perceived as “racist,” compared to what it was like say 30 years ago, they can still be very Japan-centric and have a hard time understanding why it’s not OK to be lump all people from one ethnic group together (for example).
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Compared to what it was say 30 years ago, absolutely! Japanese attitudes towards the LGBTQ+ community have changed dramatically in the last 30 years and everyone is pretty accepting (at least outwardly) of LGBTQ+ people. Having said that Japan is the only G7 country that does not recognize same-sex marriage/civil unions in any form, and the 80-year-old men who run the Japanese government are very much keen to continue to block it from ever being allowed. The Japanese government will accredit same-sex diplomatic spouses with full immunities and privileges.
Tokyo has a vibrant gay bar scene, but a lot of the bars are pretty small and there aren’t really any large dance clubs, just a lot of really little bars and pubs. Some Japanese gay bars also will have a sign on the door that says “members only” which generally means you have to go with someone who has been before, they also usually do not want foreigners to come. The gay expats I know do very much enjoy Tokyo’s LGBT+ nightlife though, however I will say that the amount of LGBTQ+ venues are not commensurate with the city’s size. If this were a city in the U.S. with the same population (30+ million people), there would be a lot more venues/establishments/resources/businesses that cater to the LGBTQ+ community.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Japan is still very much a patriarchal society. As of 2025, women hold only about 10% of seats in the Lower House (far below the OECD average). While the Japanese government keeps making reforms and attempting to pass laws that make Japan a more equal place for women, chauvinistic attitudes are very much alive and well. Per World Economic Forum’s Global Gender Gap Report (2024): Japan ranks around 120th out of 146 countries, reflecting significant gender disparities in political empowerment and economic participation, despite high education and health outcomes.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Excellent food, excellent domestic travel (although due to the tourism boom in Japan, it is totally overrun with tourists), excellent regional travel if you want to spend a little more. Absolute personal safety at any time of the day/night with no fear of ever being a victim of crime. Total and utter civility and good manners in public.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Too many to mention as one can imagine. There really is endless discovery here.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes!
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
As mentioned many times, the public safety, a lot of convenience, endless amount of things to do and restaurants to explore. Almost everyone I know loves living here and never wants to leave when their time is up.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
So, PLOT TWIST – I love Japan, and have a long history with this country, but personally, as someone who was of course working in the U.S. Embassy – I did not love working here. Japan can be a very bureaucratic place, whether you work in a foreign embassy or in a private company, and it often feels like the U.S. forty years ago. There are a lot of inefficiencies that are hard to correct.
I would also note that while the Department of State has made efforts to break the infamous “chrysanthemum club” - it is very much alive and well (maybe not as much as back in the good ole days, but alive nonetheless). Some of this I knew and expected, having worked for Japanese companies in the past, but overall whether you're working in Japan as a foreign diplomat or in the private sector it can be difficult, stressful, and busy. A lot of my colleagues from the U.S. Embassy spend their entire careers trying to spend as much of their professional career in Japan as possible, but I am not sure I will be in a rush to come back to work.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It has been a great place to live for my spouse and I, and it was always a personal goal of mine for many years to work in Japan, so mission accomplished. It has been a great experience, and we will miss it. I will always want to come back to visit as frequently as possible.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
idea that Japan is as progressive as say Western Europe.
4. But don't forget your:
to learn as much about Japanese customs and culture as you can before you come here. Be respectful of the locals and you will be treated with respect. Always maintain equanimity in front of others.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are too many to suggest, but I recommend reading books about Japan's role in WW2 as well as any books that discuss the collapse of their bubble economy and how that has affected society since then.
