Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 08/02/10
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Third overseas post
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Most people take the United flight from Dulles to Dubai, stay overnight and take a flight to Afghanistan the next morning. Safi, an Afghan carrier, also flies to Frankfurt five days a week. Total travel time is about 18 hours in the air to the east coast.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Embassy housing is on-compound. The apartments are really nice, but are scarce. Tandem couples, Senior Foreign Service and select others get them. Many have been partitioned so that they can be shared, which is a popular option. Everyone else is in hooches - sometimes shared. Other organizations seem to range from Narco-Mansions with staff and pools to, well, more hooches.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are three stores on compound that have household supplies and some food at U.S. prices. The concierge service will go out and get you anything but adds a heafy markup. There is ongoing discussion over having more healthy, local goods available to buy. In the city, there are several good supermarkets at Western prices, and millions of roadside produce stands selling an amazing quality and selection of seasonable produce (and yummy bread). You can get pretty much anything packaged in Kabul.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
More food and toiletries. A humidifier - the winters are really dry. Wine! Packers seem to be divided on whether you can actually ship it here or not.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
This has been a real surprise. Namaste is great Indian; Lebanese Taverna and the Grill for Lebanese; Mai Thai; Flower Street (which has a branch at the Embassy); Cianno's pizza at ISAF HQ; Sufi and Jirga for Afghan food. All of these places deliver through www.easyfood.af and are good, if a bit pricey. There are still some American fast food places on bases outside of Kabul. On the compound, we have DOD-provided contracted food. The good: it's free. And there's Baskin Robbins. The bad: it was designed for a 20-year-old soldier who carriers gear up and down mountains all day. In other words: it will make you fat. An Afghan vendor runs a lunch-only cafeteria on-compound for local staff; a good meal there costs about $3.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None that I've seen.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO takes about two weeks. FedEx and DHL are here but don't seem to be much faster. There are U.S. Post Office branches at ISAF headquarters and Camp Eggers.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
The concierge service cleans hooches and apartments for very little - we pay about $80/month for them to clean three times a week. Non-Embassy folks have full-time help, which is the norm in Afghan society. You will never, ever see a woman working as a domestic worker.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The Embassy has three gyms (with another on the way) and a lap pool. The Serena has a gym popular with expats if you can go there. A few others are scattered around town. I suspect women would not be welcome at a local gym.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Not widely accepted. There are very few banks in Afghanistan, and almost none outside of Kabul.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are services at the Embassy, Eggers and ISAF. There's even a rabbi who comes in on holidays!
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN on the compound; Indian satellite channels everywhere, including HBO, National Geographic, etc. There is an English-language Afghan weekly newspaper.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Kabul Afghans tend to speak a lot of English, but Dari, (and Pashto in some quarters) is very appreciated. Everyone should at least learn greetings and formalities.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
All. No sidewalks, frequent terrorist attacks, etc.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There are buses and taxis but very few expats are allowed to use them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No one brings a car here. The standard vehicle for exapts is an up-armored Land Cruiser.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Free on the compound, and crowded. Available and expensive throughout the city. Outside of Kabul, only if you're on a base.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one! There are four carriers and pricing is good. Service can be spotty - networks in Kabul get overloaded, any many field locations don't have coverage at night. Blackberries are increasingly popular.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I think there is a vet. Afghans don't really keep pets.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, with a contractor or an NGO. However, the glory days may be over - there is a concerted push to hire more Afghans and fewer expats.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work depends on the location. In the main Embassy builing, business. The further away from the Ambassadors you are, the more casual it is. Most people in NGOs (and defintiely in the field) have their own uniform: cargo pants, logo polo shirt/hiking shirt and cargo boots. Plus or minus a holster and beard. The flights in look like an army of fly fisherman. Women have to wear pants off-compound, and cover their heads in all but the most liberal of places.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Um, yes. All of them. Depending on your organization, you can be confined to your compound all the time or be allowed to walk around and take taxis - it really depends. Embassy folks can only leave for meetings, and only in an armored GSO vehicle. A lot of people have security details.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
All the usual diseases, plus dust-related ailments. On the other hand, food poisoning seems like less of problem than I expected. There are good hospitals at the NATO base located at Kabul airport, and Bagram. Serious cases get medevaced (and dentevaced).
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Kabul has an air quality issue. There are far too many cars, and frequent dust storms. People with allergies and asthma tend to have problems here. Afghanistan has got to be the dustiest country in the entire world.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's sunny (or at least hazy) all the time. Short, mild winters - it snowed maybe three times this year. Summer is hot, but since Kabul is at 8,000 feet, it cools off at night and is never really unbearable. Beautiful, long spring and fall - you can eat outdoors from approximately March through November.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There is an international school but, needless to say, most people don't have kids with them. No dependents for USG personnel.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Gigantic. Even if you take out the 120,000 NATO troops, I would say 20,000 civilians, and a large Afghan-American community.
2. Morale among expats:
It depends. If you're here for the money, every day is tough. A lot of people really enjoy their jobs. Getting off the compound makes it better. The Embassy is very high pressure with grueling work schedules.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
On the compound, eating and drinking in people's apartments or in one of the few outdoor spaces. There is a bar on compound called the Duck and Cover that sometimes has live music. In the city, usually at people's houses or restaurants. A lot of socializing in Kabul revolves around alcohol - I think it would be difficult for non-drinkers.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No real families around. It's quite a scene for singles (the male/female ratio is very skewed; fishbowl environment). Definitely better for couples, but it's hard on a marriage - you're together all the time.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
If you're Afghan? No. If you're expat? I don't think anyone cares.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
This is a Muslim, male-dominated society. Foreigners tend to get a pass on most things (you can find pork and alcohol in Kabul), but women are definitely treated differently - from staring to flat ignoring during meetings. It's very difficult to meet Afghan women, so you're usually at the mercy of men. Even within the expat community, the ratio has got to be 10:1 - your colleagues stare at you too.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Travelling around Kabul and to other provinces (especially Bamiyan). Afghan food. Carpets. Melons. Wood carvings and embroidery. Lovely old Afghan houses with fruit trees and Afghan hounds. Feeling like my work was important.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Learn about and buy carpets. Order food from local restaurants. Go hiking at the Queen's Palace. Work out. Come up with elaborate events to keep yourself busy.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets by the dozen, from everywhere. Wood furniture. Embroidery. Raw-cut gems. Turquoise Mountain necklaces. Oh, and five R&Rs to amazing places.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Afghanistan itself is an amazing country - beautiful scenery, nice people, good food. It's from another era. Unfortunately, most people don't have much opportunity to experience it, and are confined to compounds.
11. Can you save money?
More than anywhere else in the world.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
All in all, yes. It was not an easy year, but I'm glad I did it, and I met a lot of great people. I would only come back, however, to a job that allowed me to leave the compound frequently.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Tank tops and mini-skirts, nice shoes, furniture.
3. But don't forget your:
Sports equipement, consumables, and good attitude - even if you live on a compound, this is still a foreign country that's worth getting to know.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Odyssey guide to Afghanistan, Caravans (James Michener), Ghost Wars (Steve Coll), The Places in Between (Rory Stewart), A Thousand Splendid Suns and The Kite Runner (Khalid Hossani), all of Sebastian Junger.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Caravans (cheesy but entertaining), The Kite Runner
6. Do you have any other comments?
Beneath the crowds and poverty, Kabul is really worth getting to know. Get into it!
