Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 07/10/10
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is DC.Travel to Kabul is two days:a late night flight from Dulles to Dubai, followed by an overnight in Dubai and a noon flight to Kabul. Travel from Kabul to DC is 1 day:afternoon flight to Dubai followed by a red-eye to DC, arriving early AM at Dulles.
3. How long have you lived here?
Since December 1, 2009; husband has been here since May 2009.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Followed USAID-career husband here as an EFM.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
VIPs, married couples, and a few lucky singles (sharing with another staffer as roomates)get nice enough apartments. FYI -- signing up for a 2-year tour no longer entitles single staffers to an apartment. Housing for others is trailers called hooches -- like a mini dorm room w/is own shower. Some unfortunate staff have to share a hooch with a roomate. Short-term staff live in shared hooches (called T-hooches), living with up to 6 other staffers.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There's a small convenience mart and a PX on the compound, and a few PXs at ISAF and Camp Eggers. There's also a conceirge service that can be used to order groceries. But you have to plan what you need in advance (orders take 1+ days to fill), and be prepared for some surprises (asking for cilantro, getting anchovies). Otherwise people use online stores that ship via USPS (netgrocer, amazon, target, etc).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Depends on if you're in a hooch or apartment. We did pretty well in bringing the stuff we really needed. One thing that has been indispensable is the 3M removable adhesive hooks. I also highly recommend bringing a Kindle or other e-reader. Bring lots of moisturizer and chapstick.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Restaurants are surprisingly expensive. There are a few places that will deliver to the Embassy
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing too bad in Kabul, but some field posts deal with malarial mosquitoes, scorpions, and other icky creepy crawlies.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Via APO for most items. There's a post office at ISAF, so shipping packages no longer requires a trip to Camp Eggers. The dip pouch is slow, slow, slow and not recommended.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
The conceirge offers apartment/hooch cleaning and laundry services.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. There's also a weekly yoga class.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are two ATMs, one which only takes MC and one which only takes Visa. There's also a cashier, the KEEA store (selling embassy logo gear, some veggies, and booze), and the PX at Camp Eggers do take credit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, at Camp Eggers.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Embassy TVs are connected to Armed Forces TV (AFN). Some shows are a little behind, but they do air current episodes of "contest" shows (SYTYCD, Top Chef, American Idol, etc.) I read US newspapers online.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Almost none.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
A person with slight physical disabilities could do ok if living on the embassy compound. Living in either the city proper or out at a field post is impossible. If you can't run from an attack, don't come. You'll be endangering not only your own life, but the lives of the soldiers who will have to try to save your behind.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No and no.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No cars allowed.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but the demand for bandwidth often exceeds the capacity. And sometimes the internet goes out due to weather.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy will give you a (crappy) cell phone. If you want a fancier phone, you can bring your own and swap out the SIM card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are the usual embassy kitties; some friendly, some not. There is a vet that is brought in to care for them on occasion. Pets from home are not allowed.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of expats work for USAID contractors.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Dress code for work depends on which agency one works for. DoS employees wear standard DC business dress. FBI, DEA, and security types wear cargos and earth tone tops. USAID types wear anyting from DC business dress to local garb. USAID women tend to dress more in line with Muslim dress codes than DoS women. When out in the city, at an event with Afghan VIPs, or in the field, women should dress in accordance with Muslim custom. Long pants, tunic tops long enough to cover the bum, with chest coverages and sleeves past the elbows (at least), and a head scarf.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
You could be blown up or rocketed at any time. It's a war zone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Don't come if you have serious medical concerns. The med unit only offers the most basic of care. Any remotely serious medical concerns and any type of dental work require a medivac. Also, pregnancy is not allowed. Any woman who becomes pregnant is given 3 days to leave.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Poor, poor, poor. We're inhaling all sorts of pollution, dust, smoke, smog, and fecal matter. The smell is terrible in the winter, and the dust is very uncomfortable in the summer.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
This past winter was pretty mild. I'm from upstate NY, so I didn't find the cold unberable. Summers are hot and dry, with 30+ degree swings in temp from day to night. Summer nights are also almost invariably windy, starting at about 5pm.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No kids allowed at post. Spouses are only allowed if the embassy is willing to hire them as EFMs.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large and getting larger. I think we're close to 1,000 embassy staff on the compound.
2. Morale among expats:
Variable. Some thrive here. Some hate it. It depends on who you talk to and whether there are any crises unfolding. The food offered in the dining facilities gets everyone down.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Depends on how comfortable one is with pushing the rules. There's lots of drinking on the compound, if that's your scene. Contractors and other embassies host events as well.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles seem to do ok here. Guys outnumber girls by a wide margin, so there's lots of good hunting if you're a single girl. But since there's no going out at night, the dating scene is limited to drinks at the Duck & Cover. Life for couples is both good and bad. The good is that you're together. The bad is that you're together ALL THE TIME.This can put a lot of strain on a relationship, especially as there's no where to go when you need time apart to cool off after a fight.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not for expats living on the compound.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The embassy compound has a pool, a tennis court, and a sand volleyball court. There's a bar on the compound, and sometimes we have special events (dances, happy hours, etc).There's also quiz night once a month. Other activities depend on the talents of embassy staff. We used to have a weekly salsa night, but the I think the staffer who was leading it departed post. Some people go out to "official" events in the city hosted by outside contacts (contractors and other diplomats). And the other embassies sometimes host events. Otherwise, other activities on the compound include movie watching, board game playing, and working out. On Fridays there are bazaars at ISAF and Camp Eggers. But be prepared to work very long hours, leaving little time for play.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets. Piles and piles of carpets. Gemstones, especially lapis. Furniture and textiles. Jewelry. Istalif pottery
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
If you work for the embassy, it's possible to save a lot of money, what with hazard pay, post differential etc. Lots of leave time (up to 65 days/year) is another perk. Otherwise the only advantage is that saying you live in Afghanistan is a real ice breaker/conversation stopper!
11. Can you save money?
Yes, but it's variable. It's quite easy to spend lots of money on carpets and jewelry. If you have an apartment and choose to cook at home, your food bill will probably be pretty high. And because life on the compound is kind of deprived, there's a great tendency to spend a ton of money on food, luxury lodging, and shopping while on leave.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
taste buds. The food in the dining facilities is awful. Very high in fat and calories, and sky-high sodium content. Seriously. There's 950 mg of salt in the rice pilaf. Daily recommended allowance is 1,000 mg. Clothes that are dry-clean only. The dry cleaners here will just ruin them. Usually they just throw the clothes in water. Leave behind your thoughts that this is going to be an exotic post, unless you're out in the field. Life on the Kabul compound is like living in America's tiniest, most poorly-stocked college town. Interaction with Afghans and local culture is limited for most people.
3. But don't forget your:
iPod or other music device, computer, running shoes (to burn off all the bad food), Kindle or other e-reader, board games, moisturizer and lip balm, STURDY SHOES!
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Places in Between, Winter in Kabul
