Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/07/09
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have lived in Bucharest, Romania and Paris, France.
2. How long have you lived here?
1 year (Sept 2008 - Sept 2009).
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government employee assigned to U.S. Embassy.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Travel time from Washington, DC to Dubai, UAE is 14 1/2 hours on United Airlines, then an overnight layover in Dubai, followed by a 2-hour and 40 minute flight to Kabul via SAFI airlines.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is either a hooch (containerized living) or apartment. The housing situation is bad and will only get worse before it improves, due to the influx of personnel and poor planning for housing. Higher-ranking officials, couples, and personnel who volunteered for a 2-year assignment have their own apartments. Lower-ranking personnel live in a shared apartment or single hooch. TDY personnel might sleep on cots in bunkers.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You eat in the chow hall, currently run by KBR.The food is usually fried and fatty, but not too bad. There is a dining facility for the Afghan employees, which American staff can use, and isn't too bad. But the menu doesn't change, so you get tired of it. There is a small convenience store now that doesn't have a wide variety, but soon it will be expanding. Employees order through netgrocer or buy junk food at the nearby military facility. With the housing crunch, it isn't a good idea to bring a lot of extra items with you to take up valuable space.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
iPod with docking station, good laptop with CAT-V cord, a small blender, work-out gear, yoga mat (the few in the gym are filthy), 2 sets of plates, cups, utensils, good digital camera for travel, good carry-on luggage that holds a weekend worth of clothes for use on your RRBs, bedding that you don't mind throwing away when you leave.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Officially, there is no going into the city to restaurants, although some staff go into the city to attend "official" functions or functions that they claim to be "official". Listing the locations wouldn't be appropriate, but when you get to Kabul, you'll find out
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are a lot of ants, mosquitoes and a few scorpions if you live in the hooch area.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
You receive packages and letter mail at the embassy, and you go to the local military APO to mail packages out. Letter mail from the embassy is free.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is a concierge service at the embassy that will clean your apartment or hooch, but there have been some theft problems reported.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are 2 small gyms at the embassy with pretty good cardio equipment and weights, but both are becoming overcrowded with the "surge" in personnel. The embassy started a yoga class, which seems to be popular, and there is a swimming pool and tennis courts.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are ATMs at the embassy, all safe to use, and a cashier's window where you can cash a check.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I believe there are non-denominational services at the embassy and other services (Catholic / Protestant) at the nearby military facilities.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
All apartments/hooches have AFN television. You can obtain Stars & Stripes at the embassy. If you want any other publications, have them mailed to you.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None..unless you are an officer that has meetings in town. If you are confined to the embassy, everyone speaks English.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes - folks with disabilities should not come here, there are no resources. If you can't run from the attack, you don't want to come..
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
No, no, no...someone tried to take a taxi from the airport once. I don't know if they ever found him again.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If your vehicle isn't armor plated and you aren't qualified to drive an armor-plated vehicle and carry a weapon, you can't ship a vehicle here.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
There is internet available, for free, at the embassy, but the service is overwhelmed and sometimes is slow or goes down...then there isn't anything that can be done except to wait it out or use the internet in the office.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy will issue you a cell phone.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
No pet care is available. There are stray cats that some people feed, and one or two gals brought their cats with them (possible only if you live in a hooch). But it is not a good idea to bring pets or to allow the strays in your home unless you like fleas.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For non-security personnel the dress code is similar to that at other embassies. There is a Marine Ball, and ball gowns are worn. There are also balls at other embassies you can attend. It is a good idea for women to bring at least one full gown, one black cocktail dress, and one other formal dress if you want to attend these events
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Very unhealthy. There is constantly sand, pollution and poop in the air.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
Anti-malaria pills can be obtained at the med unit, but you should be current on all other immunizations.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are major security concerns. You are confined to the embassy the majority of the time because you never know when a vbied, bbied or IDF will strike next. There was a major bombing at ISAF, next to the embassy, about a month ago.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The embassy med unit is good. If there is a serious health concern, you will be medevac'd to another facility. Your skin, hair, and nasal passages will be dryer than you ever thought possible. If you have serious health issues (including anxiety/depression), you should NOT come here, it is a war zone.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The climate is similar to Denver's with some very hot days in summer and cold snowy days in winter. But also has cool spring evenings and mild fall evenings.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Embassy staff don't bring children to this assignment.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large and growing.
2. Morale among expats:
Morale depends upon your mindset..if you go to the embassy knowing you will work long hours, be confined to the compound and not able to get out much, it is ok; after all it is a war zone. There has been a batch of folks lately who complain about their high heels being nicked when they cross the street, complain about the food and the fact they can't go to restaurants. I don't know what they were thinking when they volunteered to go to Kabul (again...a "war zone" ), but they should have volunteered for Paris or stayed home!
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
A lot of drinking/partying goes on here, but there are those who don't partake in this at all and do just fine. They read, watch movies or get together at friends' apartments.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
The "city" is confined mostly to the embassy compound, with the exception of NGOs who live in Kabul. Some couples come to the embassy together and live in a shared apartment. Employment is a condition of bringing your spouse. There is a lot of partying going on that both singles and couples participate in, but embassy staff are trying hard to arrange activities that don't revolve around partying. It is a stressful environment for everyone - married or single.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I don't believe it is a good environment for gays; it seems like they are not out in the open with their socializing, I but can't say for sure.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I haven't witnessed problems with racial, religious or gender prejudices, but it is a male-dominated environment and has proven to be difficult for females coping with not being used to being around males all the time.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Shop at the bazaars when they aren't closed due to a recent suicide bombing; work-out; party; sleep if you have the time.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pashminas, items purchased from other countries while on R&R or RRB, carpets, jewelry...
9. Can you save money?
Yes.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. It was a tough tour, but I never worked harder in my life nor felt like I contributed more than at this assignment. It's all about mentally preparing yourself for the assignment, and then there will be no letdowns.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
idea that you will find a husband if you are a gal. Most people are not looking for long-term relationships here. Also: any idea that you are entitled to go to restaurants/clubs in the city; the idea that the food in the dining hall is healthy; the idea that you will get sleep - get used to being tired; the idea that everything is equitable, because it isn't. Some folks have their own staff and never eat in the dining hall and never have bugs crawl on them when they sit outside. Don't bring too much stuff because there isn't a lot of room in the apartments/hooches.
3. But don't forget your:
travel guides. RRBs are a great time to visit the UAE, Thailand, India and other nearby destinations.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Caravans, The Kite Runner, Three Cups of Tea.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Caravans, The Kite Runner, Three Cups of Tea.
