Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 07/12/13
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Nairobi, Asmara, Abidjan, Addis Ababa, Lusaka.
2. How long have you lived here?
11 months.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service Officer with USAID.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For high-ranking positions and couples, there are apartments. For mid-levels and singles, there are hooches. The hooches are 8' by 20' and in good shape. You have your own bath (plenty of hot water) and the living area has a twin bed, closet, dresser, desk, micro-fridge, microwave, DVD, TV with cable, and a small bookshelf. You can store your suitcases under the bed. Most of the hooches are on the east side on the opposite of the embassy. Great Massoud Road cuts through but it's been closed off. To cross, you have to walk through a tunnel that goes under Massoud. Apartments are on the sterile side but they are actually decent. You get real furniture and a small kitchen with a separate bedroom. Some are single units and others are shared. If available, they do let you pair up with someone to share a 2 bedroom unit. The upside for all housing is a short walk to the office.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can get most of your household supplies (eg, cleaners, laundry detergent, etc) over at the PX at ISAF. The embassy employees association (KEEA) has a small shop on both side of the compound. Think of them as really tiny 7-11s that are out of most things.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Go light. Nobody cares if you wear the same shirt over and over. Bring only one suit. I've worn a tie three times.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There's a trailer that sells Pizza Hut - it tastes like the real deal. They just dropped a trailer that will sell Burger King but no idea when it will actually open. On the west (Chancery) side, there is an Afghan dining facility. The food is good and reasonably priced. There is also a coffee vendor. On the ISAF side, there is an Italian-contracted pizza restaurant.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
In Kabul, I have yet to see a single mossie. Flies are an irritant in the warmer months. The upside of winter is that the flies disappear.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. They switched a few months ago from military to commercial handling. It seems to take about 3 weeks for items to show up.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
You can hire a cleaner through the KEEA. I think it's $10 for a full hooch cleaning. I've never used it. An 8x20 hooch isn't that hard to keep clean.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are two gyms on both sides. Not bad. They can get busy so you have to find a time that works for you. You may have to go to different gyms to get in different workouts because the equipment is not consistent across all facilities. You can walk through the gate to the ISAF compound and use their gym, which is much bigger. There is a Crossfit group that has equipment outside one of the office buildings. There is a sand volleyball court, a covered tennis court, and a 25-meter pool with lanes. A lot of people like to run and you can do a 600 meter loop around the east side compound. Other people run over at ISAF for a bigger loop. ISAF has a field that doubles as a helicopter landing field. When it's clear, people play Ultimate and soccer on Fridays.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are two ATMs that dispense USD. There is a $2 surcharge. Never had any issues. You can use credit and debit cards at the PX. Never had a problem. The embassy has a cashier on the east side.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
You can access religious services at ISAF. Or, you can borrow other works of fiction from the CLO.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
51 channels with a mix of AFN and Indian channels. About 5 local channels as well. Stars and Stripes is available at the DPO and the west side health unit. All of it is free.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Not a single syllable. Use your time to study a language for your next post.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Ask yourself if you can run if a mortar hits. If the answer is not a confident "yes," don't come.
Transportation:
1. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you need to go anywhere, it'll be in an armored Land Cruiser.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Free internet piped into your room. Bring a wireless router. It's not speedy (forget Netflix) but it works. There is also MoraleNet with some wifi spots around the compound. You can sign up for that and it's free. Rooms also have VOIP with free calling to the US. Calls get dropped sometimes. Works fine most of the time.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You'll be issued a Blackberry. Works ok for the most part.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There's a robust cat population here. It does keep the mice and rats at bay (I've only seen one rat and two mice in almost a year).
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some on the development side. Lots of big projects and big pay packages. You have to have the job before coming, though.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Towards the business casual. Bring a few ties and just one suit unless you are State and working the chancery. In that case, you may have to dress the part.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The embassies sit in a green zone that is well-protected but not perfect. The insurgents would love to get through. There are attacks with regularity, but mostly directed at Afghan Gov't institutions. You will hear them and there will be duck-and-cover alarms. For me, the scariest part is the airport run. It's a non-varying schedule so I'm amazed that a car bomb hasn't hit anyone yet.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The health unit is pretty good. I've had one cold that stuck around for 3 or 4 days. That's it. No GI issues from the food. I'm an office chief and I tell staff to go "home" when they are sick. In our confined offices, it's easy to be a Typhoid Mary or Mark.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Kabul is in a bowl surrounded by hills. It's an LA effect. In the winter, people in Kabul burn everything. Snow turns brown in a day and you can taste the smog. There's a lot of construction all around and that creates a lot of dust. A lot of people walk around with the "Kabul cough" that clears up when you leave for R&R.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Winter is cold with snow. Summer is hot and dry. Temps in the compound are higher by about 10 degrees or so due to all the concrete. It's not bad. Do bring winter clothes, though.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty large. I'd guess about 400 on the US Embassy compound across all agencies.
2. Morale among expats:
It's a mixed bag. Some thrive. Others (most) just do their thing and wait their time. It seems universal that people go into a week long funk after returning from their first R&R. You really do have to get out on R&R. It's a mental health issue.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People make things happen. Try not to abuse alcohol. That's probably the biggest reason people are sent home. There's a zero tolerance policy for public intoxication.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
If you are married and coming alone, don't come if your marriage is shaky. If you are married and coming as a tandem, don't come if your marriage is shaky. Either way, fix the relationship before putting this kind of pressure on it. Otherwise, there are no real redeeming qualities. It just is and then you leave.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are some gays and lesbians here. I think that in the embassy compound it's pretty much live and let live.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I haven't observed any problems.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The Afghan local staff are great. If you get to leave the embassy compound for meetings, they can be quite interesting. Some of the issues are fascinating but the bureaucracy -- idiotic and unlike anything I could ever have imagined -- throws a wet blanket on any hope for excitement.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
You're not going anywhere. You're not seeing anything. And with the military drawdown, field placements are drying up quickly. You are entering a minimum security prison.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Check the career box and save money. Unless you're running away from something, I can't see any other redeeming aspects.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I wasn't surprised except for the insane bureaucracy. I'd do it once. No way twice.
2. But don't forget your:
Nice pillows and a light down comforter. Good sunglasses.
3. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Rambo III.
4. Do you have any other comments?
If you're on the fence, keep in mind that when the US troops withdraw, security is likely to become an even greater issue.
