Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 12/27/10
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Not my first experience - I have been with the State Department, Foreign Service for 22 years
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is California. It takes around 3 days to get from Los Angeles to Kabul which includes an overnight in Dubai. There are quicker and less expensive connections but due to the "Fly America Act" we have to take a much longer and more pricey way of getting here. Coming to Kabul generally requires an overnight but going home can usually be done in around 24 hours. That is...if Safi, the one airline we can fly in and out of Afghanistan is actually flying that day. They cancel quite often and are known for always departing late.
3. How long have you lived here?
Currently posted here - going on my 7th month
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Posted at the American Embassy
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The housing situation here is probably the sore spot for most folks (It's probably tied with the horrible and disgusting food we are forced to eat at the cafeteria - yes, it's free, but you can't even call it real food) but for me it's been ok since I was lucky enough to get my own "hooch" (shipping container) and was never made to share which most newcomers have to do. Married couples automatically get an apartment which is not really fair when you think about it. They will put two total strangers, adults, in a small container and make them share an 8 foot by 15 foot living space for weeks and sometimes months until a single hooch opens up for them but married couples get to glide right into a nice size apartment the day they arrive. I just can't understand why they aren't forced to share a hooch....considering they are married and al. They are almost building an entire new area of "hooches" that we will all be forced to move into soon. They are smaller than what we have now, stacked on top of each other and right next to each other so you will get no sunlight in your home and honestly - the entire new compound looks like a concentration camp but managment keeps telling us how great they will be. NOTE: most of managment lives in apartments and some have never even seen the inside of a hooch. Still, you are told before you get here what you will be living in so you just have to make the most of it. Some people have really decorated theirs nicely and made them feel quite homey so it is possible to live comfortably for a year in one. As far as your commute goes - 5 minute walk at the most.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
For those living in an apartment and have a kitchen with a real stove you can find a lot of different items here for cooking and baking. The embassy has a service where you can place an order and they will go out onto the local market to try to find what you want. It's really hit and miss. We are allowed to shop at the PX down the street but there is nothing there to buy. It's quite depressing really to go in there since the shelves are usually empty the majority of the time. We have APO and people use that to order items they need while posted here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
If you are going to be living in an apartment you will have room to ship a lot of things but if you are assigned a hooch you need to be careful not to go too crazy shipping items to yourself since you are very limited on space. I suggest shipping paper products, personal products (shampoo, soap, tons of lotion for the very dry weather here, any contact lens supplies, toothpaste, etc) enough for at least a few months and then you can always do another shipment later on and/or order via the internet. I highly recommend an air purifier for your hooch/apartment and a humidifer. Some air freshners and/or candles for masking the sewage smell that always seems to linger in the air here. Nowadays you can pretty much get anything you want or need via the APO so if you do forget something - you can buy it once you get here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Nothing
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
I can only imagine how hard it would be to live here and have a special diet. The food we are served in the cafeteria is pretty abysmal and unidentifiable. Everything is overcooked, flavorless, high in calories and loaded with MSG and other things to make it appear fresh. I know a lot of folks worry about gaining weight here since the food is free and there's so much of it but I honestly don't know how that can happen. I lost 8 pounds my first few months and wasn't even trying. There are many restaurants who will deliver to the embassy so I try to do that a few times a week so I won't starve to death. They really need to do something about the contract they have regarding the cafeterias - it's not fit for humans. Even the feral embassy cats won't eat it!
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None really to speak of. We had an infestation of bees this summer but they basically left you alone if you left them alone.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We can received letters and boxes through the APO here in the embassy. Any boxes or packages though have to be mailed via the APO next door at the military base.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, there are several gyms on the compound. they are small and some have very outdated equipment but they are there and they are free to use.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I won't use my credit card here even though some vendors now in the baazar will take them. There are several ATMs at the embassy, and next door at ISAF, and there is the embassy cashier as well for cashing checks.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
They hold services over at Eggers military base. Not sure what they are exactly or if they are any good but I've read they are over there.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We have AFN and a few other assorted stations from Dubai. It's free and it's not too bad. Havn't seen any papers around but that's what the internet is for.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None really since you don't get off the compound on a regular basis but knowing a little bit is nice so you can speak with the locals who do work at the embassy.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I can't imagine it outside the embassy compound and can't really imagine someone with a disability living on the compound.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Wouldn't know - we aren't allowed to use them.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It's free to everyone here and for the most part it works really well. Now and then we have an outage but our IM folks are great about keeping it up and running.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy will give you one when you get here.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not on the local community, but there are a lot of jobs for spouses here on the embassy compound.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
If I see one more pair of cargo pants after I leave here I might lose my mind! Folks here either dress up for work like they would back in DC or some are more on the casual side, and others have gone completely native. It really depends on your office. When you are out in public you just need to cover your head if you are a woman and try not to expose too much skin and you will be fine.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
umm....yes....we are living in a warzone.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We have some very good nurses here - and a great PA as well. We had a great doc when I first arrived but this new one seems very detached and is only here killing time. Expect to get a lot of colds, chest infections, coughs - mostly from lack of sleep, working so closely with others who are sick and from the poor air quality. You can stay pretty healthy if you eat right, get plenty of rest and just take good care of yourself.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is really bad. You are basically breathing in a pound of dust every time you walk outside in the winter and since they burn dung all winter long to stay warm you are breathing in fecal matter as well. If you live in one of the many hooches here you will notice the walls become coated with a slimy black goo....that is what you are breathing in.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
The weather here has actually been really nice. Summers are hot but not humid and the evenings are lovely for sitting outside. So far this winter it has gotten pretty cold in the early mornings and evenings but the sun is always shining and during the day it actually warms up to around the low 50's. I've been told that this winter has been mild so far and usually be now we should have had a lot of rain and snow but it's been very dry - which probably explains the massive amounts of dust in the air.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
No
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Too many to count! I think we outnumber the Afghans!
2. Morale among expats:
Good and bad....some folks will complain no matter where they are posted so you can't expect a feeling of good morale from them but others will make the most of any situation and there are quite of few folks here like that and they make this place and make it a bit more pleasurable to be here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Not much, so one must be creative. Drinks at the Duck and Cover, dinner out now and then if RSO permits it, some entertaining in folks' apartments. Most of us work 6 to 7 days a week, 10 to 14 hours a day.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
No kids allowed. A lot of the married couples I know here seem very happy. There's isn't much to do in your spare time so you just have to be the type of person who is happy just spending one's free time reading, working out, watching movies and for some - drinking.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Within the embassy community - no problem at all. Outside in the "real Afghanistan" probably not a good idea to advertise it.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not within the embassy community at all.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Working with some really great folks, getting involved in some of the local orphanages and being able to spend any free time I had out there teaching English and just hanging out with the kids.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Visit the limited restaurants we are allowed to go to for official business, walk the 5 minutes to ISAF on Fridays and go to the baazar and well, that's about it.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets, jewelry, assorted knickkacks from the baazar next door.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Money - that's bascially the only and best advantage of being here.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, you can save a lot of mone
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it's been a great experience for me and I've met some wonderful people here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Good clothes and shoes - anything you don't want to toss before your tour is over. Your need for sleep....because you won't be getting much while you are here.
3. But don't forget your:
Camera, sense of humor, warm clothes for the winter, and a lot of patience.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Three Cups of Tea, The Bookseller of Kabul, My Life with the Taliban
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Osama, The Kite Runner, etc....
6. Do you have any other comments?
This place can be tough for some and boring for others but it's really not so bad. If I didn't have a family waiting for me back in the U.S. I would have signed up for a second year without a doubt. I think the main issue most folks have here is the poor sense of leadership and management coming from our FIVE, yes, FIVE Ambassadors. Morale could be a lot better but they tend to squash anything and everything that could make it that way. I would say for the most part none of them really care one bit about the folks serving here but only about their own careers and their onward assignments. Shame really - but I'm sure it's like that at a lot of posts.
