Tbilisi, Georgia Report of what it's like to live there - 08/26/23
Personal Experiences from Tbilisi, Georgia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Lived all over Asia Europe and Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
The United States, easy flight through Qatar or Munich to get there. Getting out Georgia into the region or elsewhere is tricky - flights are at odd times in the middle of the night, making a quick regional weekend jaunt significantly less appealing. The airport is small yet has outsized lines and is not well run.
Travel within Georgia is relatively easy with a car but driving is some of the most unsafe I’ve encountered anywhere in the world.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
4. What years did you live here?
2019-2022.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For diplomats, there are three communities: downtown (long commute, noisy), an area of standalone homes near Embassy (short commute, large homes with privacy), and a compound near the Embassy (short commute, small housing and zero privacy).
The compound has a lot of downsides, especially for childless/petless couples/singles. Not only is it isolated and impossible to walk anywhere, but the small villas (singles and childless couples) are the smallest in the pool. It was specially built for the Embassy, with in my opinion, construction of low quality (plastic floors for showers, etc.). Homes are extremely close together with no offsets, so you can easily peer it on a neighbor’s home. Families love it because their children can run around freely and it’s next to the school. The larger villas for families have a phenomenal view and yards. There is a gym and pool but there is a massive fence blocking the view of the city and mountains.
Apartments downtown are a lot nicer than the housing by the Embassy (in terms of construction, appliances, etc.) but all have noise issues. Street noise is Tbilisi is something you’ll need to accept as a reality of life and way more intense than in other places. The commute is miserable and public transpo isn’t an option, so you’ll need to drive or Bolt (local Uber). In the morning it used to be a 15 minute drive to the Embassy but now it’s a minimum of 30-45 minutes, with the drive home stretching anywhere from 40 minutes (minimum) to 2 hours on bad days. Traffic is unpredictable and driving very hazardous.
The standalone homes by the embassy are hit or mix: some very very nice, some kind of outdated. They have big yards so there’s that. Stray dogs in Tbilisi (center) are the friendliest strays you’ll encounter anywhere, but the ones in this particular neighborhood sometime chase your dog and people have gotten bit.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Seasonal fruits and veggies are amazing and dirt cheap. Fresh baked tandoor-style bread on every corner. There is nothing you can’t find, I’m not sure why this is a consumables post. Colleagues complain about quality of meat at grocery stores but there are speciality butchers downtown.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I wish I hadn’t shipped anything as everything is cheaper in Georgia.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are some food delivery apps with phenomenal Georgian options and mediocre international options. Don’t bother with international cuisine as Georgia is a one trick food pony, and it does its one trick VERY well. Eat cheese bread and dumplings and drink amazing wine while you can.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Shockingly no. Returned to America and rediscovered mosquitos, much to my annoyance. Georgia is at a great elevation for not needing to deal with insects.
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
When I left most housekeepers were asking for $6-7/hour, whereas locals pay $18-25 for a full day. I did not think the quality of services provided by housekeepers was commensurate with cost or worth the headache.
2. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Gyms are oddly exorbitant for membership.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards a thing of the past - Georgians pay with their phones. Yes, you can use a credit card anywhere in Tbilisi, even your neighborhood vegetable stall. Outside of Tbilisi you may want to have cash.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Downtown Tbilisi - service providers speak passable English but you’ll get better and more accurate service if you speak Georgian. Once you get to the suburbs or outside Tbilisi, Georgian or Russian are essential.
5. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Georgians are very friendly and helpful so if you ask for help, someone will come to your assistance.
Crossing the road would seem to be impossible given how drivers behave and treat pedestrians.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Extremely affordable, if you can squeeze in. Buses are brand new and beautiful but packed at rush hour. The Soviet era metro is aging with (actually) hazardous noise levels and there are only two lines. Small mini-buses are plentiful but not the safest. Tbilisi ripped out tram tracks and rails so they’re not longer available; the city used to be better connected. Bolt (like Uber) you can get at the touch of a button but drivers aren’t the safest. It’s cheap by American standards. One nice thing is unlike in many middle income countries, there isn’t any non-sense with the driver calling you and asking where you’re going, cancelling, you needing to order another - they just show up. As a result, some colleagues used Bolt to commute to and from work.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
“Pre-dinged” 5-10 year old vehicle recommended. Don’t bring anything you love too much as it will get further dinged while you’re here.
Carjackings and theft are not an issue here, the biggest safety issue is most Georgian cars are previously salvaged and imported from America. They’re rebuilt decently well but I’ve heard that some mechanics cut corners when it comes to inserting a new airbag, good seatbelts etc (and I’ve noticed in some Bolt cars the seatbelt light is on for the passenger seat). If you buy used on the economy, 98% you’re buying a salvage from back home. The same goes for buying from diplomats who bought on the economy (or whose original owner bought on the economy). Do your homework and check the vin and Carfax.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Super high speed, super cheap, installation is like three minutes.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get a local sim.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Vets are okay… YMMV.
Kennels and boarding are not great but 1-2 are acceptable.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Embassy spouses get jobs at the embassy.
People come to Georgia to be “digital nomads” so teleworking may be an option but I don’t know.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual to formal depending on the occasion.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Tbilisi itself is extremely safe, and Georgians are very kind and helpful.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Some complain about air quality but it seemed fine to me. Medical care is fine for routine stuff but I wouldn’t get anything complex done here.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Some complain about air quality especially downtown.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
If you have allergies, use Google translate and ask your server consult the chef. Georgian service isn’t the best to begin with and English is limited to simple requests and orders; servers will just answer yes or no, regardless or whether they understand your questions.
You should understand that most servers work crazy long hours, are very paid poorly, and typically not tipped, so they won’t go above and beyond. That’s why they may not be bending over backwards to address your allergy or seem like they care. Just be kind, reconfirm everything, and leave a nice tip (in cash, that you preferably hand to them).
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Not to my knowledge.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Georgia has all four seasons: spring is a dream, autumn is also nice but it stays hot into September and October. Winters are mild.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most use QSI, but is is a hit and mix experiences. Consult a recent parent who has just left post with children in your grade.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge expat community, diplomatic and civilian. Morale depends on which expat community you’re talking about - Western Europeans and Americans seem pretty happy, Russian expats are a mix - some love it some hate it - whereas refugees from various parts of the world are struggling.
There’s a large community of medical and dental students from India.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Literally step outside and talk to anyone. Georgians are very sociable.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for both as tons to do for families and for singles.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Very easy to make friends with locals especially if you speak Georgian. There are tensions between Georgians and the Russians who came after the start of the war in Ukraine.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Hard to say - day to day, no - but there are long-standing issues here with LGBT individuals which come out when Pride rolls around. I think short-term and as a foreign visitor you won’t notice, for an LGBT Georgian who lived here the situation wouldn’t be tenable.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Hiking! You can hike in the city itself. Endless opportunities all over the country.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
People buy rugs but I don’t really see the appeal.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Cheap amazing Georgian food, cheap groceries, accessible and great hiking,
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
How bad the driving truly was - you need to totally relearn how you drive and get used to it.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
With the embassy - no. In my opinion, the housing pool in its entirety has too many downside, and so much of your experience is feeling like you can truly come home and unwind and like where you live.
As a civilian who can choose where they live, I would move to this city in a heartbeat. Tbilisi is great and so are Georgians.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Bicycle
4. But don't forget your:
Hiking gear
