Kabul, Afghanistan Report of what it's like to live there - 06/18/14
Personal Experiences from Kabul, Afghanistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have lived in ten countries; this is my second Embassy tour.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. There are daily connections via Dubai, requiring an overnight. Emirates, Safi and Fly Dubai all connect to Dubai, with USG employees continuing to Dulles on United.
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U. S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most people are housed in hooches (aka CHUs or shipping containers). Living in a hooch isn't as bad as I'd envisioned. . .compared to my previous post in the former Soviet Union where heat and running water were frequently out in embassy housing, it sometimes seems downright luxurious as utilities are quite consistent. Couples, and singles that get on the shared apartment list, live in surprisingly nice apartments (which are also much safer) on the West Side of the compound. Be sure to sign up for the apartment list upon arrival even if you don't think you want to move to one! (I didn't sign up right away but after Taliban rockets landed near my hooch I signed up and wished I had done so sooner). Don't bring more than a few hundred pounds. . there's VERY little storage space.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The Italian PX at ISAF has European goodies that are slightly pricey. The American PX at ISAF has household basics. The two Blue Dot shops on the embassy compound have Embassy Kabul gift items, alcohol, and snacks.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Most essential items are available in the PXs or Blue Dots. However, specific brands aren't always available so if you are picky about things like shampoo brands, it would be wise to bring your own (Dove and Pantene seem to be consistently available, but other options vary). Same with laundry detergent. Other than specific brands of toiletries and laundry detergent, most other items are available. Storage space in hooches is extremely limited, so I would strongly suggest not doing a consumables shipment until you arrive at post and determine what you really need vs. what you can purchase there. There is also a monthly consumables swap in the apartment courtyard where you can buy/sell items.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Pizza Hut and Burger King hooches on the embassy compound and Cianos (very good, affordable pizza) on the ISAF compound.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Wasps and mosquitos in summer but for such close living, there is surprisingly little in the way of critters in the housing or offices (though we do have two office mice, sigh).
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. . .very slow and unreliable. This is a morale-buster for many staff (1.5-2 months for letters and packages to arrive).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
You can get your hooch/apartment cleaned for a reasonable amount, though they don't necessarily do a very quality job.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are several gyms at the embassy, and one large one at ISAF. There is also a hooch that houses yoga, bosu and Core X classes.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
There are ATMs on the embassy and ISAF compounds.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Several weekly services for various denominations at the embassy and ISAF. There are prayer rooms throughout the embassy and ISAF compounds, which are mostly used by Muslim local staff.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. While Afghan staff appreciate a few phrases of Dari or Pashto, in reality everyone is so busy and tired from work that language learning is rare (except for the few who receive Dari training prior to arrival at post).
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Physical disabilities are really not allowed on the compound due to periodic duck and covers and the needs to be able to run in bulletproof gear. For any injuries that prohibit people from temporarily running (sprains, breaks, etc) staff are med evac'd, usually for several months even if it's relatively minor.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
USG is not allowed to use non-motorpool transport.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
No personal vehicles allowed. . .most staff don't get out much. If you do it will be in an armored SUV. Important note: women should bring scarves to cover their heads when leaving the compound, including to wear in the vehicle. Burqas are common attire in Afghanistan, but foreign women do fine with long sleeves, long pants or skirt, and a head covering.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is free for USG staff in hooches and apartments (bring a wireless router in your carry on luggage in order to have access as soon as you arrive!!!) Routers can also be purchased at the ISAF bazaar.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The embassy issues you a phone. This should be kept on you at all times, even just when stepping out to use the communal laundry area, in case of a duck and cover.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No pets allowed.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No, this is not allowed. However, there are good EFM positions at the Embassy (in order to bring a USG spouse to Kabul, s/he must have an EFM position).
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Opportunities abound to volunteer to teach classes (everything from knitting to spinning). It's not possible to volunteer off the ISAF and embassy compounds due to security.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual (it's more dressy than most imagine before coming to Kabul). Shirt/tie and not infrequently a suit needed for State, business casual (and an occasional suit) for USAID. Women should bring scarves to cover their head and conservative suits for outside meetings at ministries. Other agencies' attire varies (the security-related agencies rely mostly on khaki and camo). There are several formal dances per year; women should bring a few formal dresses (which is more than I would have expected); many men get tuxes affordably made at the ISAF bazaar. High heels shouldn't really be worn on the compound in case of a duck and cover, but one pair for formal events makes sense for women.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Um, yes, it's an active war zone. There are periodic duck and covers and one needs to take security seriously here. It's a good idea to be cognizant of where bunkers are located and to ensure you have relevant phone numbers and your embassy-provided Blackberry on you at all times. If you have anxiety, this is NOT the post for you.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Many respiratory illnesses due to the air quality. Alcoholism is probably the most widespread problem, however. There are quite a few mental health issues, some requiring med evac, due to the high stress situation of the post. There have been a few broken bones sustained in exercise classes.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very unhealthy. Unbelievably unhealthy.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot in the summer, cold in the winter. . .you really do need clothing for every climate, particularly since you'll likely go somewhere warm from R&R in winter. Clothing gets dirty quickly due to high levels of dust; while business casual is the norm at the office for all non-security related personnel, I wouldn't bring clothing favorites.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are international schools but USG does not allow employees to bring children to this post, with good reason.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The embassy is huge, though it's getting somewhat smaller as the political climate is shifting toward "normalizing" operations at the embassy (which will only increase the stress as the project management burden on fewer employees grows). Morale varies, though I'd say it's generally moderate. Extroverts and active types do well here due to the myriad social activities and plentiful exercise opportunities. I have enough fun there to have volunteered for a second year-long tour. However, many people have a difficult time, more often due to the high stress and fast pace of the workplace rather than the actual danger, though the latter is very real. The substantial R&R allowance helps a lot with morale, and unlike some posts where it can be difficult to schedule R&R, in Kabul it is sacred. You can go AMAZING places during a year-long tour here.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Apartment parties, the Duck and Cover bar, CLO parties (very well attended since no one is allowed to socialize off the compound), exercise classes, meals in the cafeteria (poor quality food but since everyone eats there, it's sociable).
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
In terms of an ideal fit for this post, I think couples are best off since they are immediately placed in an apartment. This is not the post for a shaky marriage, however, as it's a lot of together time. Sociable singles tend to have pretty good morale; there are many parties and myriad activities. The Duck and Cover bar is a popular gathering spot, though it often resembles a frat party. Many men are "situationally single" and dating can be challenging for women here in terms of quality, though not quantity. Many staff are at post without their spouses/children and the time difference can make it a challenge to keep in frequent touch, particularly given the long work hours and general exhaustion. Many separated couples have a hard time, particularly since it's difficult to explain the Kabul experience to those at home. Many divorces seem to take place following departure from post. Coming here with a marriage that isn't going well only seems to make it worse.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yes. Since we live in a compound it's no problem; however, most choose not to be open about their sexuality with Afghan staff, most of whom have much more conservative views. There is an organization for gay employees that hosts a well-attended annual party.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not among the American staff as far as I've experienced. The Afghan staff tend to be much more conservative and women are not highly regarded in Afghan society, which sometimes poses a challenge for women supervisors. There is a lot of diversity on the compound, with TCNs from all over the world.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The close relationships. . .for better or for worse, the atmosphere is like college all over again! I have met amazing people on this tour and there is a sense of "we're all in this together." However, working long hours and living on a small compound surrounded by colleagues can be challenging for introverts.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
ISAF (the adjacent military base) is a good place to get away, particularly the coffee shop (in winter or their deck in summer) and the garden (in summer). There are a TON of exercise classes offered at ISAF and at the Embassy. . .it's a great way to relieve the bountiful stress and to meet people. I don't normally work out a lot but going to exercise classes 6 days/week has been one of the highlights of my tour, both in terms of getting in to shape and meeting tons of people from myriad agencies.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets and other items at the ISAF and embassy bazaars. . .virtually everyone goes home with multiple carpets.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Saving money, getting street cred.
10. Can you save money?
Definitely. Most people make approximately 80% above their usual salary. However, with the number of R&Rs this can go fast if one is not careful.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Just how bad the air quality is. . .some people bring face masks. I also wish I'd realized just how little storage space there is. . I would have brought less!!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it's actually better than I expected. However, it's definitely not for everyone. Think about how well you manage stress and anxiety before you decide to come here and be prepared for a heavy workload. Frequently delegation visits and political imperatives heighten the challenges presented at the office.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Favorite items; it's very dusty here and the communal laundry facilities can be hard on clothes. There are MANY books and movies available in the CLO.
4. But don't forget your:
Winter jacket, bathing suit, and workout clothes. Favorite toiletries are also a good idea. If you know where you want to go on R&R, bring the guidebooks in your HHE since DPO is so slow here.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Kite Runner
A Thousand Splendid Suns
In the mandator pre-departure training in DC, staff receive two books on the history of Afghanistan, which are helpful.
7. Do you have any other comments?
Kabul is unquestionably a challenging post. However, the close friendships, the interesting work, the heightened pay, and the adventure have made it a worthwhile post for me. I would do it again, but the fatigue and stress are a constant challenge.
