San Salvador, El Salvador Report of what it's like to live there - 09/18/25
Personal Experiences from San Salvador, El Salvador
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I have also served in Eastern Europe, the Middle East, and Washington, D.C.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Central VA. The trip was not as long as from other parts of the world, but frustratingly long given the proximity. Total flying time was 4-6 hours (depending on the route), but the entire trip usually took 12-13 hours. It's pretty easy to get to San Salvador from anywhere in the U.S., as there are regular flights from all the major hubs (especially the farther south you go in the U.S.), but the trip feels very long.
3. What years did you live here?
2021-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Four and a half years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The U.S. Embassy housing pool is centered around houses close to the Embassy (from a 5 minute walk to a 5-10 minute drive), and apartments slightly farther away, closer to Multiplaza (big mall) or San Benito. Commute times from those apartments really varied based on traffic. As roughly 20% of FSOs at post were with USAID, it is feasible the housing pool could be rethought.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
It is very easy to get most things. There are well-stocked Central American grocery chains (e.g., Super Selectos), large international chains (Walmart and PriceSmart, kind of a Costco offshoot), and even local gourmet/organic shops. It's weirdly impossible to get some things, e.g., lemons will only appear at Super Selectors 2-3 times/year.
Also, as you might expect, it is almost impossible to get unscented cleaning products. Unless you're buying exclusively local products, costs are similar to the U.S.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Unscented cleaning/self-care products and non-sugary cereals.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Every American chain you can think of is in San Salvador. They even recently got a Jimmy Johns. There is decent pizza and Chinese, and some good, more upscale restaurants, like Kuzko (Japanese/Peruvian fusion) and El Xolo at the National Museum of Anthropology.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Hahahahaha yes. We had roaches, ants (which ate through the floor of our house on multiple occasions), and mice. Ask your social sponsor to put a can of roach spray in your house. I also recommend bringing mouse traps if you wouldn't use glue traps. We ordered traps via Amazon because all I could find locally was glue traps.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. It was pretty quick; almost always got things within two weeks. I never used local postal facilities (I'm not even really sure they exist), but I did know people who used FedEx and DHL with no problem.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Most people have an empleada/housekeeper, and if they have a yard of any size, a gardener. Families with kids of nannies. Costs for the expat community are usually $25-$35/day (for nannies, housekeepers and gardeners are typically $25/day). I would say that the level of service in El Salvador is not great. People are eager to work but slow to understand expectations. I eventually gave up and decided to live with service operating at about 70% of the capacity I wanted because I didn't have the energy to come home from work and do real hands-on management in the house. Obviously some people will deal with this differently.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Yes, it's safe. Even before the State of Exception it felt safe enough for expats, and now it's very safe. Bike riding is possible in parks, but I wouldn't recommend it on roads. There are a few big parks where you can hike/bike to your heart's content. You'll have to drive to get to them, but there are sufficient parks in San Salvador proper that you don't have to go far.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The U.S. Embassy has a well-stocked, if small, gym. There's all the equipment you would expect, plus a studio where yoga, jiu-jitsu, Zumba, and other classes are offered regularly. There's also an outdoor pool. Off the Embassy compound, there are many gyms, workout studios, and pools. I think prices are about the same level as U.S. prices.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are widely accepted and safe to use. You will run into local tienditas and roadside stands that prefer cash, but by and large credit cards are fine. ATMs are also common and safe.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There's an English-language Catholic mass once a week and another non-denominational church (Union Church?) that offer services in English, as well as the local Mormon temple. There's a synagogue, but I'm not sure if they hold services in English or not.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot. Most Salvadorans do not speak English. Local language tutors are available and affordable. There are a few local language schools (e.g., Academia Europa), but they didn't have very good reputations.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. San Salvador is not built around accessibility. Something as basic as navigating sidewalks would be a real challenge.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Ride-share services (Uber) and taxis are safe. No trams or trains. Lots of local buses and microbuses that used to be controlled by the gangs and obviously now are not, but I probably still wouldn't ride one.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Any car/truck you want, except a purely electric vehicle. EV charging stations are still not plentiful in San Salvador. Some people had hybrids. If you plan to go a lot of hiking and camping you may want a four wheel drive, but we didn't find it necessary. We had a Toyota Rav4 and it was fine.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, there are three services: Claro, Japi, and Tigo. Japi is the local fiber connection, Claro and Tigo are cable. They're all mostly reliable, although all have occasional outages. Many families that had a family member with a U.S.-based telework job had two services. You can work with your social sponsor to set up service before you arrive.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I personally kept my home-country plan (T-Mobile), which was fine for calls and text without wifi. Lots of people had Google Fi. Many EFMs had local phones. Any of these options can work depending on your particular needs and preferences.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
El Salvador is considered high-risk for rabies. There are qualified vets, lots of dog walking services, and popular boarding services people used. People in the U.S. Embassy community are also usually willing to pet-sit!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Some work EFM jobs at the Embassy, a few worked on the local economy (mostly teaching), many took advantage of proximity and time zones to work remotely in a U.S.-based job. Local salaries are very low.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Lots with various youth homes.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Formal dress only at Marine Ball. Dress code at the U.S. Embassy is business/business casual depending on your Agency and position. In public I dressed exactly as I did when I lived in D.C.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not like before. Take normal precautions, but by and large San Salvador is very safe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
There's been a lot of dengue the past few years, and "mal de mayo" (i.e., eColi season) is a real thing. Local medical care is okay. We had a local pediatrician that we loved, and many people were happy with dentists, but definitely medevac for anything serious.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is mostly okay, but not great. During sugar cane season, ash freely floats in the air. Little kids especially seemed prone to respiratory infections.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
It's Central America, there is mold everywhere. As far as food allergies, I would say that depending on the severity of the allergy, I would primarily eat at home unless you are very confident you can explain your needs in Spanish. There are several local restaurants that do gluten-free dishes.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No, although I felt very validated when I read a New York Times article a few years ago about *summer* SAD. I found the lack of changing seasons pretty difficult. I know that lots of people love the perpetual summer!
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It almost never gets super hot in San Salvador (the beach is a different story). I would say the temperature is mostly between 75-90 degrees F all year. Slightly warmer Oct-April, slightly cooler during rainy season (April - October). The weather has been getting more unpredictable (some strange rains in December and January), and there is a risk of tropical storms/hurricanes/typhoons. Also be prepared for earthquakes!
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The primary international schools are Escuela Americana, Academia Britanica Cuscatlan, Colegio Internacional de San Salvador, Liceo Frances, and the German School. There were also a smattering of Embassy kids at smaller schools like Arbol de Vida and Acton Academy. My child never attended any of these schools, but I would say people seemed happy with all the big international schools and Arbol de Vida.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
The big international schools *may* be able to handle more typical needs, like mild dyslexia or ADHD. You would need to discuss with them directly. Several families of kids who really needed more individualized attention (gifted, more serious ADHD, the full gamut) were very happy at Arbol de Vida.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Lots of preschools, both at the international schools and locally. EA preschool has been free either for U.S. Embassy families or native English speakers (I'm not sure which) for the past several years. ABC and Liceo Frances also start at 3. Arbol de Dios is a popular preschool choice for U.S. Embassy families because it's very close to the Embassy.
The other popular preschool choices were Acton Academy and Casa de los Ninos, both local Montessori options. We tried both, and were very happy at Casa. I pulled my kiddo out of Acton after 5-6 months because I had concerns about their health and safety practices. There aren't really day cares or before/after care; people just have nannies instead.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes! The big schools have their own activities, and the U.S. Embassy has swim classes, soccer, and Scouts/Girl Scouts. Locally, there are swim classes, dance, gymnastics, martial arts, climbing, etc. One thing I would say is that local dance schools generally do not take boys. Boy parents whose kid wanted to dance had some success finding local teachers and arranging private lessons.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Medium, both in terms of size and morale. The U.S. Embassy community really shrank in size with the destruction of USAID.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It's very easy to socialize at the U.S. Embassy, especially for families with young children. Otherwise, it seems a little bit challenging to me. Groups like InterNations were not very active in San Salvador.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For families, especially with kids under 10, it's basically perfect. I think for a single or couple who can make their own fun, it's fine.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
As a white person, I feel pretty unqualified to talk about ethnic groups feeling uncomfortable. As for local friends, I think you can if you want to.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Hmmm... I think LGBT expats are generally fine, but there's no doubt that El Salvador has become more regressive on LGBT rights for its own citizens.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
LOTS of problems with gender equality; check the femicide and domestic violence stats for El Salvador. For expats, not really.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The highlight was what an amazing place it was to be while my daughter was tiny. Great preschools, a caring nanny, weather that is almost always good enough to play outside in. We loved the beach, too (although, be careful as the undertows are real and there are multiple drownings/year). There are also lots of fun things to see and do, like the ruins at Tazumal, Lago Coatepeque, the Santa Ana hike, etc. Regional travel to the rest of Central America and Mexico is also pretty easy. People were constantly taking long weekends to Antigua, Copan, Roatan, Mexico City, etc.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
No hidden gems, really.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There were a few local artists I liked, and of course there's Fernando Llort, but no, I wouldn't say it's a "shopping post."
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Proximity to the U.S., small and easy to navigate, can get almost anything you want, decent schools (for elementary/middle; San Salvador is only K-8 adequate, although there were high schoolers throughout our time there), good opportunities for regional travel.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I'd known how strong the Central American sun would feel! Man, it was brutal sometimes.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, for sure, but as my daughter grows older I would have more reservations.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Wwnter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
beach gear, sunscreen, patience.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Everyone Who is Gone is Here
6. Do you have any other comments?
If you have small kids, San Salvador can be a great fit. Beware of the influence that U.S. politics (under any administration) can have both on your work and on the country more broadly.
