Yerevan, Armenia Report of what it's like to live there - 07/04/26
Personal Experiences from Yerevan, Armenia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was not my first expatriate experience. I've lived in multiple other countries, including other Eastern European countries.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
It was not difficult to travel to Yerevan. From DC, there's usually a connecting flight through France, Italy, UAE, Qatar or Frankfurt, DEU.
3. What years did you live here?
2025 to present.
4. How long have you lived here?
I've been here for a little over a year.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I am an FSO with the State Department. My previous assignments were also with the Foreign Service.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
In recent years, the housing allocation has not been good in Yerevan for a number of reasons. Most other diplomatic mission expatriates will live downtown but that is not guaranteed for American expats. It has gotten much harder for the USG to find apartment leases in downtown, where most people want to live due to the availability of activities, bars, restaurants, and culture there. There has also been a lot of leadership turnover. There is little flexibility in furnishing your home as all homes come fully furnished. Rank and family size determines where one will reside and with a lower rank and/or bigger family size, there is a bigger chance of living in communities or neighborhoods outside of downtown.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are readily available in the big supermarkets like YerevanCity, Carrefour, Parma, etc. YerevanCity and Carrefour are the two restaurant chains in which diplomats can receive VAT-exemption. Most things are available but imported from Russia and nearby European countries so specific American brands or American products may be difficult to find. The great thing about YerevanCity is that you can order groceries to be delivered through the mobile app. Domus, Expert1 and Urartu are good market chains available for household and DIY supplies as well. These better known brands will cost more than buying things off the street vendors or open markets.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Distilled white vinegar and baking soda for cleaning. Good laundry detergent and cleaning supplies. Plastic wrap and foil.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Plenty of restaurants with various cuisines are available around downtown, and Glovo and Yandex are apps that exist for food delivery. Those that live downtown don't have a need to have food delivered, whereas those that live outside of it may occasionally order from these apps. People typically don't order from them often because the delivery costs and taxes add up.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The community near QSI school for children has had occasional scorpion and snake sightings. They're not a threat but houses are ground level so there will be some pests. Other houses have had ant infestations. It might be helpful to bring fly traps, ant traps, etc.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
I've never relied on the local postal facilities, but they do sell stamps. Embassy staff rely on sending mail through the Mailroom.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help and other domestic staff (gardener, nanny, cook, pet sitter) are available for much cheaper than the States, but these costs do add up. Typically, those that don't live downtown employ drivers and housekeepers for cleaning. Those with yards and gardens also employ gardeners or people that can prune their trees.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Some families have been victims of robbery of things in their cars while parked overnight. Like in any country, there can be petty theft in crowded areas, as well as uncomfortable staring for foreigners.
Men staring is common and can definitely make some women feel unsafe. I have heard that female FSOs have reported uncomfortable security incidents with local men in their neighborhood. Machismo culture does exist here among Armenian men, and there may be a subconscious bias that men need to behave according to that characterization. In my opinion, generally people don’t feel unsafe in Yerevan. I’ve walked home after late nights and seen many people still out and about at 11pm and 12am.
Yerevan is a modern city with a growing LGBTQ population, although there is a subsection of the elderly population who probably look down on those that identify as such. People dress freely here. Most dress in business casual and well put-together at all times, but you can also find the college students with baggy punk-style clothing and colorful hair. Women are typically well put together at work and even on their days off, wearing long pleated skirts, blouses and carrying handbags. I have never seen anyone not dress well here in Yerevan so fashion, good personal hygiene and grooming habits are important here.
Armenian Catholic and orthodox religions are big in the country and there is a very small presence of Jehovah’s Witnesses. I have not seen any members of the Church of Latter Day Saints mission. There are surprisingly not that many options for Roman Catholic mass if you identify as such.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There is a small gym inside the Embassy and a nice walking path outside the Embassy compound so you’ll see a lot of the local staff and employees taking walks on nice days. Plenty of pilates and yoga studios, but the workout schedules may not align with your work schedule. There are gyms in downtown as well but people typically opt to run outside, especially when the weather is nice between April and June. Hiking is big here and there is even a Sunday hiking group, but you’ll need a car to drive to the trails.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
International credit cards work well at established stores and supermarketes, but the ATMs don't seem to work well in withdrawing local currency from using an international card. Bring some US cash to exchange at currency exchange kiosks for the first month.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Armenian Catholic services are widespread, there's a few Jehovah's witnesses and a small Roman Catholic community as well. If you need religious accommodations or have medical or disability needs while at work, be prepared to advocate for yourself.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Most supermarket products are Russian imported goods. Many shops both online and in person will have Russian descriptions. There is a huge Russian-speaking population here and many art workshops or pop-up events are sometimes in Russian. It helps to be able to read some Cyrillic, but it is not debilitating to not have any Armenian or Russian ability. The Embassy offers free language lessons through the Post Language Program (Armenian, Russian), and EFMs and direct hires can learn languages directly at the Embassy during business hours. The language instruction is very auditory-based, relies on NFATC-approved language material, and conducted 1 on 1, so if this is not your learning style and you’re not highly motivated to learn the language, it can be difficult to follow the quick pace of the lessons.
Of course, speaking the local language does help with creating connections more easily with the locals, but it is not a necessity. Mostly everyone in Armenia speaks some degree of English, and if they don’t, the translation apps are helpful.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yerevan is not a good location for those with wheelchairs or mobility issues as not every place is accessible and there are stairs and steep hills everywhere. Many of the residences also have steep stairs.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
There is an option to take public trolley buses and the mini-van transport options around town, but as cheap as they are, they’re very crowded so not many Americans will utilize them.
The metro is fantastic; it is limited in its number of stops but will come every 7 minutes and will quickly get one from outside the city center into the center within 25 min. The metro is not to be used by those that have a fear of heights or claustrophobia as the escalators that lead to the underground metro are really steep.
Yandex and GG make taxis readily accessible. Having a car and being able to drive at post definitely helps, but it is not entirely necessary with the availability of taxis. The taxi costs can add up to around $5 per ride going from the Embassy to downtown during peak rush hour in the afternoon.
Those that live in downtown have the option of walking the straightforward path to the Embassy in about an hour. In recent months, the traffic near the embassy has gotten particularly bad due to construction and just rush hour congestion. With bad traffic, it can be nearly impossible to order a taxi or drive your own car past the traffic without being stuck in it for an hour so you may have to resort to walking 1-2 hours home if you live close enough by.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Smaller cars are better. Some roads and alleys are narrow. They are meant to be one-way streets that are being used both ways.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
The internet is sort of reliable but has its connectivity issues. UCom is the primary internet provider and many have had periodic connectivity issues. For Embassy staff, the at-home wifi setup is arranged through the commissary, AEYEA, which the social sponsor is required to have prepared prior to arrival to post. Any time there is an issue with it, it has to go through AEYEA, and in my opinion, there is a frustration to addressing these sorts of situations through a third party. Phone internet can similarly be set up with AEYEA, or you can set it up yourself by going to the internet provider store. The phones have to be renewed monthly in person at the Ucom branches, and there is a main branch that services customers quickly in downtown.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
This is a very animal friendly post as many locals own cats or dogs; however, also be aware that there are many stray animals. Some of the stray dogs can be aggressive but mostly all of them have been vaccinated and tagged by the government already, which is very good about stray animal care. The presence of an animal in your family unit will affect your housing assignment. Temporary housing in hotels do not allow for animals. There is plenty of veterinary care and green space for dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Most EFMs that want jobs at the Embassy have found a position for them. Consular, RSO, CLO, FAC, and GSO have had positions for EFMs but position opening depends on the timing of when people PCS and the budget. Security clearances can take a while as well. Inform the Community Liaison Office (CLO) well in advance before arriving to post if an EFM has the intention of working at the Embassy. Members of Household are not allowed to work unless they get local working rights per the FAM policy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
People dress freely here; most dress extremely business casual and well put-together at all times with their nails and lashes done, but you can also find the college students with baggy punk-style clothing and colorful hair. I have never seen anyone not dress well here in Yerevan so fashionable; good personal hygiene and grooming habits are important here.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There were reports of safety incidents with single women that lived in secluded communities.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
One person who resides in Vahagni has been stung by a scorpion because the community has a lot of grass and the houses are on the ground.
You could be at risk of being attacked by stray dogs that may or may not have rabies around town and in more remote areas of Armenia.
Others have gotten injuries from skiing. The altitude is steeper in Armenia so those with preexisting conditions may feel their orthopedic symptoms more exacerbated here. In the winter, the roads are icy and it’s important to change tires on the cars. I know many people that have slipped and fallen because of salting the snow is not common here. Nonetheless, medical care is good here when it comes to optometry, dentistry, orthopedics, physical therapy, etc. Like at any post, be mindful, have situational awareness, and take care of yourself.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
AQI is terrible in the winter and everything is grey. It's particularly bad in downtown and less so for those that live outside of downtown. It's not uncommon to see people wear masks to work on the worst air quality days. Winter feels really long and SAD is a concern. There are fewer seasonal issues with pollen or allergies.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Vegan restaurants are available. Dairy free options are available in some cafes. Meat and seafood is available for purchase at the bigger supermarkets like YerevanCity, Parma, and CarreFour but can be pretty pricey. Most food products are imported from Russia and nearby countries. Fresh fruits and veggies are available year-round and the Armenian seasonal fruits like figs, peaches, cherries, apricots are great.
Gluten-free flour like rice flour can be found in smaller quantities but anyone with dietary restrictions should bring them in the Consumables shipment. Asian condiments are limited to fish sauce and soy sauce so include niche condiments in your Consumables. Every fresh produce is locally grown and basically organic.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
In my opinion, administrative bureaucracy and multiple housing issues have led to housing appeals and mental health issues.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Yerevan is cold and snowy in the winter, which is made worse that the ice on the streets are not well treated. Slippage is a real concern. Spring is the best time of year but it rains a lot and some families in ground level residences have experienced sewage runoff. Summer is extremely hot.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
QSI is the main school for children. You will need a driver/car/have to drive if you have children that are school-aged as the Embassy is located far from the Vahagni community where families reside due to its proximity to the kids’ school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
I don’t have any kids that attend the school QSI, but I know many of the parents are really happy to have their kids in the school. Others have arranged to send their kids to boarding school in Switzerland, which is also an option.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschools and day care are available, but I don't have any experience with them. Typically, those with young kids hire nannies.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
This is a very small American community of about 50 USDHs There are other diplomatic missions and a robust expat community available. I feel as though morale at the Embassy is the lowest it has ever been, especially as transition season has begun. In my opinion, housing is a constant issue among American staff. Be prepared to advocate for yourself and reflect on if this position and work experience is worth the struggle.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Those that live downtown will arrange for frequent happy hours or dinners in the city with the plentiful bar and restaurant scene. Those in Vahagni and elsewhere will arrange their own playdates and pet-dates. Inevitably, with all the Embassy employees being segregated into different areas based on their rank and family size, it’s hard for everyone to come together, unless it’s to join the CLO event for hiking, winery visiting, etc. or to attend a Marine event at the Marine house located on the Embassy compound.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is very much a family-oriented post and I have heard from single colleagues or those without kids that it can be extremely hard to break into the community when most events are kid-oriented. That isn’t to say the community isn’t welcoming; it’s just harder to connect with those you may not have much in common with if your kids aren’t playdates. Friends can be made outside the Embassy community with other expats and locals, but you will mostly require the local language or a sociable personality in general to put yourself out there. It’s also hard to sometimes get the intel and information of events happening around town unless you’re well connected on social media or following event pages in the local language.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Machismo culture does exist here among Armenian men, and there may be a subconscious bias that men need to behave according to that characterization. That being said, people are friendly and it may be easier for those of lighter skin color to connect with locals. It seems that those of darker skin color do get stared at more.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Yerevan is a modern city with a growing LGBTQ population, although there is a subsection of the elderly population who probably look down on those that identify as such.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Your friends and family will proactively make plans to visit you in Armenia. There’s always something going on in the city center: festivals, jazz nights at popular restaurants, plenty of greenery for kids and pets to run around, and plenty of shopping. Yerevan is full of arts, culture, tradition, great food, and warm locals. Wineries and monasteries are plentiful. Short flights to nearby cities like Budapest, Athens, Larnaca and Rome are cheap, although most of the flights are red-eye flights that arrive at weird times in the middle of the night. Do take advantage of traveling during long weekends. Plenty of day trip options within the country too. Fantastic restaurant and cafe options in downtown city center. Seasonal fruits like peaches, apricots, cherries, strawberries, figs, and more, helps to diversify one’s diet.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Plenty of wonderful handicrafts, artwork, and shopping to do around town and especially at the Vernissage Market, which I recommend visiting on Sundays at 2 pm.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The country and local people are fantastic.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Having lived in Yerevan for a year, it has been a wonderful experience; however, the internal conflicts of has made me question if this was the correct career move for me. These are just my personal struggles and others may not feel the same. Resilience is a must.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
sense of justice and truth. In my opinion, speaking the truth will not get you rewarded.
4. But don't forget your:
values, self-worth, dignity, and self-belief.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Farsi Lessons
6. Do you have any other comments?
In my opinion, there are many issues at this post. Post Info to Go does not reflect Yerevan justifiably. Let the dust settle and wait several years before bidding for this post.
