Hanoi, Vietnam Report of what it's like to live there - 08/17/26
Personal Experiences from Hanoi, Vietnam
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our sixth overseas experience. We have previously lived in SE Asia, Europe, Africa, and Central Asia.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
We usually travel back to Montana and the trip is sooooo loooonnnggggg. Other than the length of the journey, it's fine. We have transited through Tokyo and Seoul and have been able to build in time to explore both cities.
3. What years did you live here?
We arrived in 2024, and are scheduled to depart in 2028.
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There is a thriving expat community in the Tay Ho district, north of central Hanoi, and Ciputra, a gated housing community located just a little farther north of Tay Ho. Embassy provided housing is a mix of stand alone houses and apartments. Commute times vary depending on which building you work in; I work in the Old Quarter and its a 15-20 minute commute, my spouse works farther out with a commute time of around 30-40 minutes. The Embassy provides a low-cost shuttle, but there's also Grab. We both take an electric scooter to and from work.
I think housing is great.
All of the houses are tall with a lot of stairs, usually four floors. Many of the houses have swimming pools of varying quality. Some are under the houses and don't get sunlight and are not heated, but some are beautiful and get plenty of sun. Though the houses are generally not that old, they have many issues of old housing to include random water leaks, etc. Some people complain that their houses are dark since they are all situated very closely together which doesn't allow for a lot of sunlight.
Honestly, I have been in many of the houses and haven't seen any that I wouldn't be happy in. I love our house and it's not a standout example in the housing pool. I have been in a few of the apartments and they also seem nice! If you have mobility issues, you may want to mention it in your housing questionnaire as the stairs in the stand alone homes are unavoidable.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Of all the places we have lived, Hanoi, by far, caters better to expat tastes than any other place, including Europe. Peanut butter, maple syrup, hot sauce, American brand TORTILLA CHIPS are all regularly available. Cost for most of these items is quite high. A 12oz bottle of Frank's hot sauce is about $7, a bag of Tostitos tortilla chips is around $8-10. Considering that produce and other locally produced groceries are quite inexpensive compared to U.S. prices, I consider the splurge on comfort items worth it. Organic produce is easy to find.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
The only thing I would ship is good wine at a decent price. Our diplomatic mission allows for a consumable shipment, but so far we haven't taken advantage of it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You name it, it can be delivered. Everything from pizza and sushi, to Ukranian food, Italian, and even Dairy Queen blizzards.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are ants that come and go on the first floor of our house. Outside there are plenty of rats and cockroaches, but we've never seen evidence of them in our home.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We ship and receive mail through diplomatic post. We have had things sent from other countries to our home, but regretted it. Customs fees are to be expected, but the bureaucracy is almost insurmountable, and in fact many people who have attempted the process give up in defeat. We have sent things through the local DHL shop to Switzerland found it to be incredibly professional, reliable, and reasonably priced.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is widely available. Salaries vary, but are affordable. If you're with the American Embassy, the CLO can provide info from a salary survey they conducted in the community.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Hanoi is such a safe city! My spouse and I both exercise outside regularly and walk to most places in our neighborhood, night and day. I walk a 5k loop every morning around 6am and the neighborhood is bustling with activity: walkers, bikers, runners, stretchers, aerobic groups. On the weekends I do a 10-15k loop around Tay Ho lake.
During much of the year, it's too hot for most people to exercise in the middle of the day. Better to stick to early mornings or evenings. In the Winter air pollution can be a a major problem and outdoor activity is not recommended. It's important to note: You will encounter plenty of trash, dead rats, and so many smells. There are also gorgeous views, fresh breezes, and mind-blowing sights. Sidewalks are often blocked, but it's fine to walk in the street as long as you use a little bit of caution.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are tons of gyms. Memberships are expensive for most high quality gyms, but usually negotiable and there's often a discount for committing to several months/years. I looked at one small boutique gym and they quoted a price of around $250 per month but were ready to negotiate down to around $80 for slightly more limited services. There are plenty of fitness classes, and trainers and while maybe not dirt cheap, are very affordable. We also opted to get some indoor exercise equipment for a home gym when weather/air quality is bad.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards and Apple Pay are widely accepted, but there's usually a service charge between 2.5% and 10% at smaller businesses. Many people opt to use the Moreta app which enables you to pay via QR code at even at the smallest roadside vendor if you don't have cash on hand. It can also be a better payment option at places that have a high surcharge for credit card processing. I have yet to encounter a small vendor that doesn't accept Moreta.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I know there are some, but I haven't personally been. For those at the American Embassy, the CLO can provide a list.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It would be such a dream if I could speak Vietnamese. Unfortunately, it's a difficult language to learn, and I am too lazy, so have made almost zero progress. If this sounds like you, I suggest you make best friends with Google Translate. That along with a friendly attitude, a sense of humor, and the world's dumbest game of charades will usually get you through.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it would be extremely difficult. Not RSO-approved, but I have seen motorized wheelchairs cruising down the highway.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, very affordable. There are a couple of taxi apps, Grab is being the most popular. I have never taken the bus, but my college-aged child has and said it's surprisingly pleasant. You can also easily pre-arrange a taxi service for daily commutes or other trips. Most people have been able to link their international credit cards to the app which is very convenient. You can also pay with cash or Moreta.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
I think a few people have a car but most don't. We don't have a car but have amassed quite the collection of motorbikes/scooters. For longer trips, we hire a car service, which is very affordable.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, it's available and inexpensive. Our sponsor was able to have the internet already connected when we arrived. I think this is the case for many people, but can't say for sure. For those in apartments, I believe it's provided by the building and already hooked up upon arrival, but you should double check with your sponsor.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
My spouse has Google Fi, and I have a local plan. I have a modest plan of 1GB/day and it's less than $5 per month. WiFi is widely available at all coffee shops, restaurants, and most businesses and since I mostly only use WhatsApp and Google Maps when I'm out, it's enough.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Great vet care is available, and no quarantine needed. We have two indoor cats, and are able to easily find all pet supplies we need. There are challenges for dog owners as it's a very dense urban place without much space to walk dogs within the city. Not to mention the heat. There have also been incidences of poison being left out to intentionally poison dogs. Extreme caution should be taken as dogs (outside of the American mission) have been killed this way. That being said, many people have dogs within our mission and throughout the city, expats and locals alike. It's required that they are leashed and muzzled in public space.
Most dog owners take advantage of local doggy day cares who will come and pick up your pet for all day care and play time, and then deliver them home at the end of the day. I think it's around $12-15/day. Quality boarding is also available when you're away for longer trips.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There is no bilateral work agreement at this time for spouses of diplomatic mission members, but this is expected to change in the very near future. Exceptions have been made for teaching at a couple of the International Schools. Work within the American Embassy has been limited in recent years, but more jobs seem to be opening up. At the time of this report, U.S. Mission to VN just obtained three EPAP positions.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I looked around a bit when we first arrived and there seem to be a few options. You could volunteer at one of the animal shelters, and there's also an organization called Blue Dragon Children's Foundation.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Professional business attire at work, formal dress occasionally required for certain events. In public, dress for the heat -- light, breathable fabrics are a must. Colors that don't show sweat are also nice; I wear a lot of black and white for this reason.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Crossing the street and crazy traffic in general is probably the biggest security threat. It took awhile to get the hang of it, but there really is a flow and you won't believe how comfortable you start feeling in the midst of complete chaos. That being said, you still need to look out!
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Other than air quality, no particular health concerns. Quality of medical care is decent, though many people prefer to fly two hours to Bangkok for more thorough check-ups.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The biggest health concern in Hanoi is the air quality in the winter. I was warned before we came that it was bad, but it's worse than I expected. I don't consider myself sensitive to pollution, but developed a bit of a cough during the worst of it over the two winters we've been here. Many people wear masks in the winter as the AQI can reach over 300. The Embassy does provide high quality air purifiers, but you may consider bringing or buying more.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Typical Asian food such as peanuts, fish sauce, and I'm guessing MSG in most everything. I don't personally know anyone here with a food allergy so not sure how responsive vendors are.
Environment allergies as air quality can cause sinus problems. And probably typical seasonal allergies since there are so many blooming plants and trees, but doesn't seem that bad for most people.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Surprisingly, the winters here are very long and very gray. That, combined with the bad air quality, can be very depressing. For us, it's possible to combat the doldrums with dinner parties, happy hours, and cozy TV/movie nights. Having indoor exercise equipment also helps.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
From May to early September it is extremely hot and humid. Like seriously so hot. You will be sweating all the time. It rains and floods a fair amount, but not usually all day. September/November and March/April are usually more mild. November to February is pretty cold. It gets into the low 50s, which doesn't seem bad on paper, but somehow when combined with the humidity feels bone chilling. Bring your jackets and sweaters!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Tons of expats: mainly teachers and the diplomatic community.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Dinners, happy hours, pickle ball groups, music events, and city tours are good ways to meet other people in the Embassy community as well as other expats and some locals. I joined the International Women's Club when I first arrived but found it to be mostly made up of retired expat women who have been here many years and we didn't have a lot in common. This has been our first post without school-aged kids and we definitely had to make more of an effort to get out and meet people. If you have kids at the international school I think it might be a little easier.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I've heard mixed reviews for single people. I've found it's great for couples! There are so many places to explore, date nights are cheap, and weekend trip opportunities are endless. Families also seem happy. Hanoi has big energy and there is always something happening. Food festivals, music festivals, hidden bars, high end and very low end restaurants (but still so good!), shopping in the Old Quarter, sunset scooter rides around the lake. There's always something fun to do.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Locals in northern Vietnam are known to be more reserved, and I have found that to be true. They are friendly and helpful though. Aside from local staff at the Embassy, I haven't made friends with locals. The language is a huge barrier. I have heard there is some racism toward non-white expats, but I don't have personal experience.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
The LGBTQ people I know seem happy here, but I know it's not as welcoming/open as Thailand.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
See above answer regarding prejudices against minorities, not sure about religious prejudices. Gender equality seems about the same as other places.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We love it here. The culture is really different from anywhere else we have lived. There's always a new and interesting place to visit: Hoi An, Ninh Binh, Mai Chau, Phu Quoc, and more. The food is fresh and delicious, and there are endless amounts of cool coffee shops and places to meet up with friends. There is always something fun to see, e.g., a scooter carrying a sofa, or a huge mattress, or even another scooter. You can get literally anything here, and you can get it delivered. As long as you bring your sense of adventure, you will never be bored. It's chaotic and overwhelming sometimes, but it's also just super fun and interesting.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Learn to ride a scooter even if you only ride it around your neighborhood. It took me a while to work up the courage to do it, but I'm so glad I did! As far as hidden gems, get out and explore! Hanoi is made up of hidden gems. Every little alley has a new fun place to see.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, there is so much shopping. Handmade furniture, ceramics, clothing, etc.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Hanoi is a major tourist destination! Take advantage of some of the many tours and live like a tourist once in a while. If the chaos ever gets to be too much, take a trip the beach or the country side. The roads are great, and domestic flights are cheap and easy.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I knew it would be hot and humid, but wish I had known how bad the air quality is and how cold and gray it gets in the winter. It's also a very loud city!
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes times a million!!
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
ideas of a quiet, relaxing city. This city has energy!
4. But don't forget your:
warm sweaters and sense of adventure.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are many, but Anthony Bourdain's Vietnam episodes of No Reservations are fun.
