Almaty, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/29/10
Personal Experiences from Almaty, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. San Salvador, El Salvador.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
United States. KLM/Delta through Amsterdam and Lufthansa/United through Also Turkish Airlines through Istanbul or American/BMI through London. The trip is long (about 20 hours just flying time to LA) and the jet lag hard, especially with kids.
3. How long have you lived here?
July 2008-present.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most USG housing is apartments due to a policy. The apartments are very nice in general. Some are closer to the Embassy (walking distance) and some are closer to USAID.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
At the "Ramstore" supermarket that all the expats use, packaged food is fairly expensive--like shopping at Whole Foods (but not organic/fancy), except that fresh vegetables/fruits/meats are pretty economical at the Green Bazaar. Anything imported (ex. olive oil, cheese, pasta sauce, etc.) is pricey.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Children's toys and games are very expensive here, especially large items like slides and swings, but also smaller items. For those that are part of the US diplomatic mission, anything in glass and liquids (as those are prohibited in the pouch). Also, any special foods, like chocolate chips (unless you have pouch service). PJs orders can be made by diplomatic staff for alcohol and some basic food items. There are some weirdly hard to find thing--decent potato chips or fresh milk that is pastuerized, for example, but most things can be found locally (ex. "Kirkland" brand cheddar cheese, peanut butter, pizza dough).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
No American fast food, though there is a local company affiliated with KFC here and also a Pizza Hut. Both seem a little more expensive than in the U.S. Generally restaurants are expensive. Fresh juice will easily cost $8-10 at a normal restaurant, but the national dish of kebabs (shashlyk) is relatively affordable. Typical cost of a dinner would be around $30-40 including a glass of wine or a beer for one person. Food is difficult for vegetarians, but there there are a couple of Indian restaurants, including one that is run by Hare Krishnas (pure vegetarian, and no alcohol).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not many to annoy you, except in certian regions of the country.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We use pouch, but I understand that people have used Kazakhstan local mail without a problem. There is also DHL, but it is expensive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, probably around $600/month for 6 days a week full time. Part time usually costs between $3-$7 per hour.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, but expensive. Also, some public outdoor tennis courts (not expensive, but indoor courts are pricey) and also a very nice golf course open to non-members (expensive--$100 or so for a round).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Citibank ATM works fine in Almaty.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Alma TV (cable) has some English stations. Haven't seen any English newspapers as we rely on the internet. You can also get satellite from Dubai or India, I think. AFN is available for USG personnel.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with just a little Russian (especially if you hire a maid who can translate), but it is imperative that you at least know how to read Russian (it doesn't take long) and your experience here will be much better if you learn some.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It does not seem particularly accessible, and it seems like physically disabled people are not in public often, like in Europe or the U.S., but I haven't been looking for that either. My suspicion is that there is some embarassment or discrimination concerning diabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, and buses are cheap. Almost everyone takes "gypsy" cabs despite official warnings otherwise, which generally cost about $3-5 for short trips in the city. Official taxis cost more, and you must speak enough Russian to explain how to get to your residence.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Within the city any car is fine, but if you want to go out of the city a bit (which you should), I recommend a vehicle with some clearance due to potholes, uneven/unpaved roads.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Cost is relatively low ($40/month), but speed and reliability is poor. Fine for skype, when it works, but not great from streaming.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get an unlocked quad-band and it will work in the region. Phone rates are pretty cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Not applicable to us, but I hear it is ok.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Even those who speak fluent Russian seem to look for EFM jobs rather than the local economy.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Short fur coats, mini skirts with fishnets and stilleto boots in winter (better for cracking the ice on the pavement) and regular stilleto heels the rest of the time. Well, maybe not everyone, but that's the most noticeable fashion trend. Overall, a more body conscious style of dress than you would expect from even a secular "muslim" coutnry. Dress code at work is on the liberal side for women. For men, not very different from a European city.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Not really--aside from normal big-city concerns, like getting mugged late at night coming out of a club and there have been some reports of break-ins to cars and apartments (not diplomatic ones, and anyway we are not the ones with real money here). I feel very safe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical services are poor, locally. USG med unit is not equipped with xrays or other more sophisticated technology. Dental services seem to be adequate.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Summer-fine. Winter-bad, due to coal dust always in the air (city is heated by coal).
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Like Chicago. You get all four seasons.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are some choices, but I don't think it is a "great school" type of post--but we don't have any direct experience.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Options exist, but we have been generally disappointed with the selection among pre-schools. This is no Nairobi/Delhi/etc. There is no true montessori school (though several incorporate some elements of montessori system), there are some with waiting lists, and some seem to have questionable safety features.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Not so big, as the capital (with most of the diplomats) being in Astana and oil money also being elsewhere.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good, especially in Spring/Summer.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Because there is no safety concern, you can go out to eat with friends and not worry about being out late (though babysitting can be an issue). There are a lot of activities within the USG community and also an "International Women's Club" which is a good networking tool, especially if you are not working, as most of their events/meetings are during the work day.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I think it is good for both families and couples. I think it may be hard for a single who wants to really conenct with someone unless they know Russian, but I have no direct experience. There are a lot of nightlife and restaurant options, if you have the money to spend and there are also a lot of public parks and children-oriented activities.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
It seems to be a pretty tolerant city. There are many "local" people from different backgrounds (ethnic Russians, Kazakhs, Chinese and Koreans) here. I have not felt any discrimination.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The safety--you can walk around and go to parks, etc. and other than normal big-city crime, feel relatively safe.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
A day in the mountains looking at wildflowers or skiing/boarding (depending on the season); Going to the green bazaar and seeing every part of a horse, cow or goat on display as well as beautiful raspberries, exotic mushrooms, and other produce; Going to a "trout farm" where you can catch your own fish that they will cook for you (great fun for school-age kids); Going to see the "Grand Canyon" of Kazakhstan (a long day-trip) or the petroglyphs (easy day trip). Depending on your finances, longer trips to Uzbekistan, Delhi, or Istanbul are fantastic. There are also nonstop flights to Malaysia, London, Amsterdam, Bangkok and Beijing, among others (though usually at least $700 per ticket).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Carpets (the better ones are from Turkmenistan or Afghanistan, but available locally), felt shoes, local paintings and vodka, but this is not a shopper's paradise. Things are relatively expensive.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Spring and summer are great with wonderful fruits and vegetables at the Green Bazaar and lots of opportunities for hiking and such. In winter, if you don't ski or skate, your options are a bit limited but there are some indoor malls, including one with a bowling alley. Unforutnately, all movie theaters dub films into Russian. There are a lot of things to do with kids, especially with warmer weather, and also a lot of restaurants and bars/clubs.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, if you dont' go out to eat or travel too much/far. Flights out cost a minimum of $400, even to Astana, the capital. You can get to Delhi for about $500.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, but only for a short tour. The remoteness and expense as well as language barrier are what would prevent me from staying longer.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Vodka and guest towels (you are unlikely to get many visitors, other than family you convince to spend a large amount of time and money to come here).
3. But don't forget your:
Language skills (learn some Russian), Positive attitude,
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Apples are From Kazakhstan, The Great Game (related to country/region, not just city). Lonely Planet Guide to Central Asia is good too.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Mongol, Tulpan (related to the country, not just city).
6. Do you have any other comments?
A great post if you come with a positive and adventurous attitude.
