Montreal, Canada Report of what it's like to live there - 09/14/09
Personal Experiences from Montreal, Canada
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Overseas for 20 years.
2. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
45 minutes to NY, 1 hour to Vermont.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Consulate.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The May 2001 post report on Montreal gets this right - still all true in 2009. Getting housing is really difficult if you have a family, particularly if you are arriving in the fall/winter. Nothing is available, and the weather is awful for looking. That said, if you're single or a couple or don't have to live in a particular school district - you have options downtown and in the plateau that are awesome and possibly available year-round.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Forget about chicken - it's so expensive you'll think it must be caviar. Check out the Loblaws and Super Cs - big warehouse-type stores with everything you ever wanted.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Yes its all local, but at a very high cost. I ordered everything - clothes, bike parts, tires, etc. - off the internet and had it delivered to an address in NY. Often the Quebec price was twice what it was across the border -- for no market-driven reason.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All of them.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
The mosquitoes are frozen out during the winters, but in the summer they are rampant if you get out of town.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Don't mail things to Canada - you'll pay high duties upon acceptance. $150 for golf clubs, etc.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Yes it's there but expensive. Babysitting was $10-15/hour. $50/day.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Everywhere. Though that's funny because everybody's smoking all the time.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Sometimes, when you need it most, they won't accept a U.S. credit card.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Zero. However, more and more local kids and immigrants are dropping English. In the mall we found a lot of teens working at McDs, etc., who wouldn't speak English because they couldn't.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
It's a nightmare. As anyone with a stroller can attest, there is no such thing as handicap access for wheelchairs for places like the metro, museums, major buildings, etc., or rather, its very well hidden if its there. The famous underground city is a fire trap for anyone having difficulty walking. And those few places that do accommodate seem to have done it half heartedly - elevators are constantly broken, etc. Sadly, this is not -at all - the place for those who need assistance.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Local transport is actually not that bad and seems reliable for commuting.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Anything with a U.S. plate is ripe for a being stolen, according to statistics. Also, the Trudeau airport is the #1 place in all of Canada to get your car stolen. Bring an SUV - the roads are terrible. Over 40,000 potholes greet every Spring. Also, winter tires are now the law as of December 15.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Just don't go with Vonage.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Don't go with Vonage. Three phones died on us, and they manufactured reasons that suddenly made them out of warranty. Like, "there's water inside it."
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Montrealers love their pets. Pet parks are everywhere, and there are some $15/day kennels in Laval. The best vet we found was in NDG on Sherbrook. Great vets, good prices.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Only if you speak French. Otherwise, the employer has to come up with a reason why a local couldn't do your job.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Montrealers dress very well.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
The pollution seems light, however if you hate the smell of smoke this is not the place for you. It's everywhere.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Cars are stolen all the time and quickly put on container ships. The rate of theft is incredible, and only 50% are ever found - and thieves seem fearless. Cars are stolen out of parking garages and hotel parking lots. Purses may be dipped into if they are hung on the back of your chair in a nice restaurant. Nothing violent, unless you go to the clubs downtown and get on the wrong side of a bouncer.
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
In one year, someone died in the emergency room awaiting care, another delivered his own child when the doctors wouldn't go to the maternity room, and another with appendicitis waited 7 hours for an ambulance. Quebec's health system is in crisis. The doctors are leaving en masse for other provinces, or the U.S. Excellent care -- if you can get it.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It seems to be getting colder, snowier, and rainier, according to the locals. This year we had just a few non-rainy days all summer, so everyone booked trips to Cuba in August.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The schools think they are pretty great - but in our experience they lacked academically compared to the US.There appeared to be one or two that were of a higher standard, but entry is very competitive, and applications must be put in by spring for the next year. ECS and LCC seemed to be very good schools and worth getting into. If you have a kindergarten-aged kid -- you might think about going to one of the English-language public schools. Two in Westmount were actually considered better than the private schools. I say kindergarten-aged because by second grade they are immersed in a French-English split and if your kid doesn't already speak French by then they could drown awhile.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
If they think your kid has behavioral issues, the private schools won't take them. The public schools make accommodations, but only one school near downtown, Westmount Park, is truly English speaking. They had a learning-disabled class and a good teacher, but it was overflowing.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Very expensive, nothing like the US. (Again, see the May 2001 report.) There is $7/day daycare available, but the wait-list is about 2 years long. The upside is that most daycares can't afford bilingual staff, as they advertise, so your kid becomes a French (or Spanish) speaker very early on! There is a strong focus on keeping daycares healthy and safe -- though there are a few odd ideas. Just check out the ones that have space, and see what works for you and your kid. But don't be picky, as there aren't that many free spaces in town, even at the expensive ones.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
No. Even in Westmount. Check out the Westmount city hall the minute you arrive and try to sign up for things. Most sports will be oversubscribed by locals, and the seasons are super brief because, as it was explained, 70% of the kids go away to camp for summer. So, for three weeks in May, they crowd the fields to play soccer on a team that they signed up for in September on a day that was unadvertised beyond the local newsletter. This is no exaggeration - and may it be a warning that if you want your kid to play sports, you must work very hard to find them opportunities.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
2. Morale among expats:
Not great. Those we met from just about everywhere consistently said that it took 3 years to like Montreal. Until that point, most found it aggressive, exclusive, and unfriendly.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
It is very hard to break into local cliques. Its a very family-oriented society - with large extended families. So it takes time to find folks that have room to meet new people. Once you do get to know people, however, they are very generous and lovely. Neighbors are particularly wonderful when you get to know them.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
GREAT for singles and couples, and potentially good for families with wee ones if you can get a babysitter. It just gets complicated when you want daycare - and really complicated when you have a school-aged kid.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Superb.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Race issues are bad, and I believe, getting worse. Immigration policies are bringing in more and more immigrants, and the effect on demographics and the economy is starting to show -- with anti-police riots and other ugly stuff.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Tons. Unless you're freezing your bum off and hiding indoors (which is the norm). The coolest thing is to explore beyond Montreal. Head to Quebec City and beyond. Gorgeous!
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
ice cider.
9. Can you save money?
Very funny.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not with a family.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
thoughts of being in a first-world city. The city is falling apart, literally. The 'system' is full of red tape, and it is difficult to manage without help. This is not the U.S., and any expectations you might have for "French lite" are grossly misled.
3. But don't forget your:
good humor and patience, particularly on the roads. These are the worst drivers in North America, at least according to their own "worst drivers in canada" TV show. To survive without exiting your car to accost the crazy driver that almost killed you, you'll need a bucketload of zen-like patience
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
7. Do you have any other comments?
Montreal is truly a great city - unique and full of great ideas and events. It seems to be having growing pains due to a couple decades of underfunding - a problem that many Canadian cities are experiencing. I think it has a bright future ahead, but for now I would not recommend it unless one comes fully prepared with lots of optimism and a great sense of humor. And ready for an adventure.
