Montreal, Canada Report of what it's like to live there - 01/28/09
Personal Experiences from Montreal, Canada
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
25 months, 2007 to 2009.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department. - 1st Tour FSO.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
45 minutes by car to the New York border, 1 hour by air to New York City or Boston. Close to many Northeastern cities, though surrounded by miles of farms and forests.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
LQA is apparently a shock for those who have been in the service, but as this was my first tour it wasn't onerous to find an apartment. The limitation in Montreal is square footage allowance rather than price, since rent is so cheap here (apocryphally, beacause capital fled after the Quiet Revolution, and Anglos are afraid to move back for fear of total separation of Quebec). Anyone posted here can live in a beatiful new apartment or house, though large families seem to feel squeezed.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Just like in the U.S., with a European twist in some neighborhoods like Plateau. Produce at the grocery store is surprisingly cheap, since apparently lots of fruit ships from South America stop here. There are also numerous gourmet markets, bakeries, chocolateries, charcuteries, etc. to visit.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing, everything is available here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Every type and price range is here. The foodie scene is excellent!
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None to speak of, except close by the canal, where some mosquitos lurk.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The APO is actually a bi-weekly mailrun to Champlain, NY, so getting mail is very easy.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Expensive, but available. Very few FSOs have domestic help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Lots. People here tend to be very fit. Hiking the (smallish) Mont Royal is always popular, too.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Many of the ATMs don't accept U.S. cards, but bank accounts are easy to get here. Amex is hard to use, but Visa/MC are everywhere.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, in many denominations.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes, plenty.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Realistically, none, almost everyone speaks English, but the French speakers really do appreciate it if you try and tend to be friendlier.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are elevators and curb ramps everywhere, but some sidewalks are very narrow. Otherwise it's just like any major North American city.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, all three very cheap, very safe. I don't have a car, and have never really needed one.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A small one is best, since parking is difficult. But anything will be fine, the roads are usually excellent (though the drivers, not so much).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. The cheapest is US$40-$50 per month, but most people bundle cable with it for US$100+.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Mission Canada signed a very favorable contract with Rogers. Otherwise, it's just like the U.S.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, but you need the usual exams.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes, though many of the French speakers are openly hostile to dogs.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, plenty, of all ranges, but you cannot get hired without French (at least 3/3).
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual is OK, but suits have made a comeback at work. Outside the Consulate, all ranges.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
One of the least polluted cities I've ever been in. Sometimes the snow gets a bit brown on the streets, but inevitably a few more feet fall and cover it.
2. What immunizations are required each year?
The usual.
3. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
All the women I know here are comfortable walking alone at night in almost every neighborhood - it's a very safe city that way. On the other hand, it has one of the highest property crime rates in the U.S. and Canada. Car break-ins and theft are rampant. Get an indoor parking space (for the snow, too).
4. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
No epidemics, but the medical system here generates numerous complaints from residents. Expect to pay up front and be reimbursed later by your insurer. There are tremendously long waits for some examinations (like MRIs), though emergency care is on par with the U.S.Most Consulate employees have doctors in NY.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Amazingly, horribly cold for six months of the year. Winter 2007-2008 saw 13 feet of snow fall, and 2008-2009 is on track to match it. Spring and Fall are brief, but Summer is glorious, and people stay out every night on terraces to enjoy it.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No personal experience, but all my friends tell me they go out of pocket significantly buying uniforms, school trips, etc.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots, especially in Westmount. If that's your cup of tea, make sure you get a house within Westmount.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
22,000 Americans in Montreal, but they don't exactly hang out. The largest concentration is at McGill, with 2,500 undergrads and graduate students. But there's no need for an expat community, since Americans fit right in. Most of my friends are Canadian or from a third country (there's a huge immigrant population).
2. Morale among expats:
Hard to say. Most Americans don't introduce themselves as such. Probably like asking what Canadian morale is in San Francisco.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Only as people want to within the Consulate. All the officers have lives apart from the Consulate community.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This city is excellent for singles (there are numerous districts devoted to clubs and bars), but seems pretty tough on families due to the expense of children in general. There are numerous free festivals and lots of outdoor activities, so families that want to always can find something to do outside the home.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably one of the best in the world. There's a very large and open gay community here, and no sense of discrimination I've ever seen.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There is a subtle racism here, typified by the recent "reasonable accomodation" debate, wherein imigrants were excoriated for their non-Quebec values polluting the French-Canadian culture here.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Anything you can imagine. If you like nightlife, the city is a bottomless well of clubs and bars. There are more restaurants here than I had days to eat at them, and they range from 5 star to 24-hour corner grills (viva Moe's!).There are free festivals all year long (Jazz and Comedy being the big ones) with free activities all day and night. There's lots of skiing close by, and endless open space for hiking, camping and biking. Road trips to the Maritimes, weekends in NYC, you name it, it's easy to do here.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are numerous artists in the city - I bought several modern art paintings. Lots of maple-based things as well.
9. Can you save money?
Realistically, no, unless you live like a monk.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
In a heartbeat.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Thoughts of living in a third world country. This is as urban-modern as it gets.
3. But don't forget your:
Winter clothes in abundance. Hat, scarf, coat, second coat, gloves, thermals, boots, overboots, shovel, sled, dog team, etc. etc.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Since 5 or 6 films are filmed here every year, just go Blockbuster and pick one. Bon Cop/Bad Cop is a fine and silly look at Quebec vs. Ontario self-perceptions.
7. Do you have any other comments?
A great city to live in if you are willing to go out, brave the cold and buy US$12 martinis. Maybe less good if you like the expat life.
