Bamako, Mali Report of what it's like to live there - 11/01/25
Personal Experiences from Bamako, Mali
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First overseas post, previous experience in West Africa.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Flights are long and through either Casablanca or Istanbul, both routes are usually over 24 hours. Air France was the primary carrier, but stopped flying Paris-Bamako in summer 2023. There are constantly advertising flights, but then just cancel them due to disagreements with current, wouldn't expect them to return anytime soon. There is one flight to Paris through Corsair, which is more budget and out of Orly instead of CDG.
3. What years did you live here?
2022-2024
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Large houses about 90% have pools. All have large outdoor spaces, but not actually a lot of grass which can be a problem if you have pets. All have generators which run about 60%-80% of the time and can be noisy for spending time outside.
There are apartments available as well that are a good size for 1-2 people. Housing is split between the North side (embassy) and South side (airport). Those on the South have newer and nicer houses, but a 20-45 min commute. On occasion it can take over 1.5 hours if there are issues with the bridges, however this only happened 2-3 times during my tour. North side houses are generally older with more problems with electricity, water and leaks. However the commute is about 5-10 mins even on a bad day.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are major supply chain issues, everything is seasonal. If you see it in the store buy it and buy a lot because you don't know if you will find it again or if there will be a shortage. There are four main stores that foreigners shop at, Tonino, La Fourmi, Cocinelle, and Shopreate (south side). Stands on the side of the road have cheaper produce than the stores. Not a lot of American products available, but can find a lot of French items. You will never find anything you want at one store, you will need to make a day of grocery shopping.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Consumables post so stock up on everything you love from the US. I am glad I brought any type of Mexican/Tex-Mex ingredients (enchilada sauce, Rotel, etc.), Rao's pasta sauce, and olive oil. If you are a baker bring brown sugar and any other specialized ingredients since you can really only get basic flour, sugar, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There isn't a delivery service or apps. Some people have their housekeepers do their shopping. There are a few restaurants that deliver, Sleeping Camel, Annapurana, Guidos, La Bais de Palais, etc. There are no addresses, some places know the US embassy houses others don't and you have to give them a local landmark. Usually you have to have guards explain to the delivery driver where you are.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Yes, lots. Geckos, but they are nice for keeping the mosquitos out. Ants if you are not cleaning regularly. Some have had mice or cockroaches, I never did. Only had geckos and ants.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Pouch/DPO only. Local post is not reliable or international.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Very cheap and high quality. My housekeeper came everyday, cleaned, did laundry twice a week, cooked 2-3 times a week and did my grocery shopping. It was about $300 a month, which is on the high end. Gardeners are also needed for pool maintenance and the garden gets out of control quickly, they are usually paid around $125. Mine also cleaned my car every morning.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Biking is not possible, there are too many motorcycles. No sidewalks, so walking isn't really an option. You can walk to places in the backroads and between neighborhoods but not for regular transportation. There isn't much public green space, which can be a problem for pets. There is the National Park which has a walking path.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Most in the American community had home gyms. There is a gym at the American Club that has everything you need. There is a local gym on the South side that many foreigners use.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Mostly cash, there is an ATM at the Embassy which is the best to use, others around town are not as reliable. The one at the airport works well too. Economy is cash based, only the fancy grocery stores take credit cards.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I don't know of any in English. Only French and Spanish
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need to speak French to interact on the local economy. It is rare to find someone that can speak English and many barely speak French as Bambara is the local language.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
You could but it would be difficult, most local places have stairs and the electricity is inconsistent that I wouldn't recommend using elevators. There are many one-story houses though and with a driver, which some hire, you can get around.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
You are not permitted to use any public transportation or taxis for safety and security. Although many foreigners do use the taxis, however you will need to barter for the price and many don't have AC.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Need a 4-wheel drive, high clearance vehicle. Even in the city, many of the streets are unpaved or have large potholes.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Internet is usually set up before your arrival and easy to pay and manage. There where 3-4 when it was out for the neighborhood but overall reliable. It takes 2-3 mins to start up again after the generator turns on unless connected to a UPS. It worked for all my streaming needs, but I have heard that is be slow if you are a gamer.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Google-Fi worked well. There are no eSims for local networks, so need a phone with a physical SIM option if you are getting a local number
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There is a vet that most in the community use and a dog walker/sitter that almost everyone uses and loves. There is not a lot of green space, when I was there the Embassy allowed the dogs off lease on Sundays to run around together.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Lots of EFM jobs. If spouses are not working it can be difficult to find things to do. Many end up leaving post.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Maybe. You would have to get it cleared before being able to do it.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual, pretty casual on Fridays.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There are severe restrictions, and one cannot leave the city limits of Bamako. Most diplomatic missions have curfews or movement restrictions due to terrorist activity and kidnappings.
However, violent crime or petty theft isn't super common. Left my phone at a restaurant table once and it wasn't stolen and instead they found me and returned it. I didn't hear of any robberies or thefts while I was there among foreigners.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Wouldn't recommend getting any medical care there unless it is an emergency and without coordination with the Health Unit. Medical care is not at all adequate, even a dog bite can result in a med evac.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
The pollution is quiet bad due to burning trash. You can really smell it between October-April. It can be difficult to exercise outside year around.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
It is very rare to have restaurants accommodate food allergies, even being vegetarian can be difficult but doable.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The environment is overall stress, many don't sleep well, and there are limited ways to release energy. There are six R&Rs for this reason, for your own mental health it is good to get out for 2-3 weeks every 3-4 months.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Dry is hot Oct-April with temps around 110. Rainy season is May-Sept with downpours 1-2 times a week, but usually just a little bit more humid and still hot, around 90s.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
This is an unaccompanied post, no one under 21. The American School is still running and supported by the Embassy, but there are no Embassy children attending.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small but mighty community. Easy to find activities within the expat community. As mentioned, each have their own restrictions so everyone supports each other and finds ways to hang out and have fun.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are many regular get together for sports including dodgeball, volleyball and soccer. Most of the time people throw parties at their houses that are themed. Some of the Embassies host happy hours regularly that are open to all missions and it is a good way to meet people.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It was a good place for single people and childless couples as this is most of the diplomatic community. You might not be able to date super easily but there is a lot of other people in the same position as you.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It is harder to socialize with locals due to the large economic gap, but many locals will invite you to their house for a meal and it is best to have them over for a meal as well rather than going out.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There were LGBT couples while I was there, but it not something that is publicly recognized.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Amazing R&Rs, with so many the world really is your oyster and it is just as easy to get to Asia as the US. There isn't a lot you can do in the country due to active terrorist groups outside of Bamako. Know now that you will NOT be visiting Timbuktu.
7. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Lots of handicrafts available. The most popular items are the tuareg knives or swords and Dogon doors.
8. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is the community of people there that make it great.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
It is a very hard place to live for two years, it really is shocking it isn't a one year post (for some diplomatic missions it is though). I have lived in West Africa so thought I knew what I was getting into, but honestly didn't. The economic disparity is very difficult, you can't help everyone and there is always something that happens or someone that needs some money.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, it was a great two years and I made some amazing friends for all over the world. I went on amazing trips and was still able to save a lot of money.
3. But don't forget your:
bathing suit, many pool parties.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Bad-Ass Librarians of Timbuktu by Joshua Hammer
5. Do you have any other comments?
It is a difficult post and you are compensated for that, but the community of people is unbeatable and so amazing. It is what you make of it. Go in with a positive attitude and you will have a great tour.
