Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates Report of what it's like to live there - 08/09/11
Personal Experiences from Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
My Sixth expat experience - others include Cairo, Tokyo, London, and a couple of African capitals.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
New York, NY. Non-USG travelers can take advantage of a number of direct flights from the U.S. (fourteen hours nonstop from Dulles). Those subject to Fly American tend either to take United to Dubai (although Embassy Abu Dhabi will not assist travelers arriving in Dubai) or fly via Europe, mostly Frankfurt.
3. How long have you lived here?
Eighteen months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomat, U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
For the U.S. Embassy, a mix of mostly smallish villas and often surprisingly roomy flats. Villas are spread around the city, and flats are mostly near the Corniche. Few villas have more than a tiny patio outdoors; gardens are rare. Some buildings for flats have amenities (pool, gym, etc.); some have none. The same goes for villas, which are both in compounds and standalone (the standalone ones tend to be larger).
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Almost everything is available, although you do have to look and may have to hit more than one supermarket. For U.S. staples like peanut butter, apple sauce, and Hellman's mayo, you'll probably only find tiny jars - family-size here means rice and other local staples. Chickens are tiny (a little over lbs at most), which is I guess the local preference. In terms of cost, if you insist on having all the same brands as at home, very expensive. If you will only eat perfect-looking European produce, ditto. Beyond that, you can shop quite reasonably, especially if you shop around.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Not much - high-quality pet supplies are limited, so those, perhaps; anything that you have strong brand loyalty to, because even if you can find it sometimes, you might not another.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Everything you can imagine and more, some more expensive than at home. Lebanese and Indian choices are especially strong, but there are lots of fast food chains (U.S. and international) and some great top-end choices. Restaurants with alcohol are almost all in hotels and trend toward the expensive; if there's a gap in the market, it's for casual, Western-style places where you can get a drink and not spend a fortune (no nice neighborhood corner joints, in short).
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Some supermarkets (especially Spinney's) will have a choice that, while limited, covers most of these bases. Others may have things you wouldn't imagine - the small Abela chain seems to stock more oddities than you might think, for example.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Our villa has been beset by various kinds of ants, including tiny ones that relentless invade any unsealed food container. Flies can be a moderate problem in winter when windows are open (screens aren't universally available), but less so than on the East Coast of the U.S.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We get ours through the Embassy; I've heard okay things about the Emirati post, although it's all to PO Boxes (no home delivery. No addresss, in fact, really).
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available, although technically illegal if you are not sponsoring a full-time maid (which single people are not allowed to do).The grey market for part-timers is large. We have a lovely Indian lady who works 20 hours a week for the equivalent of a little over $500 a month, which is on the high side but worth it (we trust her with dog and cat, she stays overnight when we're out of town, etc.). Many pay less and have to worry about their help's honesty, reliability, etc. It's not a great system, and it exploits lots of people, but... it's really nice to have a clean house and a hot dinner. You'll have to find the right person; our experience was that those who've work for Embassy families before often have very high salary expectations and are willing to do fewer things (we had one Filipina candidate who wanted more than we pay current for only ten hours weekly, and she wouldn't care for the pets, work in the kitchen, or iron, for example).
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Widely.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Widely available, usually at good rates. I generally pay 1% of any transaction to my U.S. bank for ATMs, but have never had any trouble accessing funds.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Some Christian services, but only in state-sanctioned facilities. No synagogue. Widespread Muslim observance, of course, but only in Arabic that I've ever heard of.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Several English dailies - The National is probably the best. Various TV packages are available that give you lots of choices, including a lot of U.S. programming.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Arabic is great to have, but English is almost universal. It would almost be more useful to have Tagalog or Urdu.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many. Newer buildings are accessible (although often with ramps that slope at a 45 degree angle, are accessed by a couple of steps, and the like), but there are few other concessions.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are adequately safe, although driving is erratic and few drivers will know more than the most basic destinations, so you do have to be prepared to give directions. The limited bus system is slow and mostly used by those withough other choices. Taxis are relatively cheap (less than $5 for most in-town destinations).
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you're really into off-roading, a big four-wheel is appropriate. Other than that, almost anything would work, although you'd find it hard to be comfortable in a soft-top convertible in the summer, and a little height can be nice when navigating traffic jams.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, although speed is often less than advertised. The provider, Etisalat, has spotty service. I believe our monthly bill is on the order of $40.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You will need one and use it frequently. I can't remember the last time my home landline rang, in fact. There are only a couple providers, and the cost isn't outrageous.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, at least from the U.S., not if all paperwork is in order.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Adequate. There are American, British, and German clinics, with fans of each. I wouldn't kennel my dog in any of them, but we get good care. This is definitely not a dog culture (can't take them to parks, the beach), etc., but there aren't many problems, especially if you have some outdoor space at home.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, many, although the push to "Emiratize" means that's changing. Within the Embassy, there is currently no agreement that lets spouses work on the market; there are some good jobs for families inside the mission, but they're hit-and-miss.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Fairly formal at work, and conservative everywhere. This is not the place for short-shorts (for either gender), revealing tops, etc. That said, lots of people dress in loud colors, lots of glitz, etc.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The UAE has been the least affected country in the region by recent political upheaval - but it's neighbors do include places like Yemen and Saudi, so some unease remains. On a day-to-day basis, Abu Dhabi feels like one of the safest places on earth. Women are subject to harassment (most stares and whistles, especially in the older parts of downtown), especially if dressed at all revealingly. Driving is probably the worst concern - it's simply awful, with near-accidents feeling like something that happens every day.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Local medical care is spotty at best, with some good specialists and generally pretty poor nursing, generalists, and facilities. There are lots of places offering laser, cosmetic procedures, etc., but I can only imagine the quality of some results. Dentistry can be as or more expensive than the U.S., without much reliability.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate to poor - it's dusty much of the year, with sandstorms reduce visibility to zero, heavy fogs, and, for much of the summer, deeply unpleasant humidity like no where else I've lived.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cool, pleasant winters, as noted above - offset by summer heat and humidity (April through October, more or less) that can at worst be unbearable. You basically live an inside life in summer, much as Northerners do in deep winter.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The embassy-supported American Community School has a good reputation, but there are a number of international-quality choices.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Probably, but most will be more expensive than at home.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large - technically, about 90% of the population. Western expats are a much smaller percentage, with Americans a small percentage of those.
2. Morale among expats:
At the embassy, fair to good. It's an individualistic place with little community spirit, but we haven't minded it too much. In general, some people adore the place; others are driven mad by it. It can be hard to see so many grindingly poor people work so hard in what is supposed to be such a rich, glossy place.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
As much or little as you like. Little home hospitality that involves Emiratis, as they can be shy about coming into Western houses where gender-mixing patterns, food and drink, etc., won't be what they're used to.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families and self-entertaining couples will have a nice time, although small chidren (and their parents) probably find the long summers trying. There is some nightlife for singles (on a reduced scale from that in Dubai) and outgoing types will enjoy themselves. Entertainment options are relatively limited - a fair number of movies (censored, frequently weeks or months old), lots of restaurant choices, but special occasions aside, not much in the way of culture (no museums, few art galleries, a couple of concert series, no high-quality jazz/live music clubs).It can be hard to find a social circle, as the Embassy is less community-oriented than some and different nationalities mix less than you might imagine.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Neither impossibly bad nor great. If you come with some contacts and access to the mostly underground scene, it can be okay; Arabic speakers will have access to the surprising number of Arab expats. That said, it's all very hush-hush, even compared to Dubai, and of course local culture is highly homophobic on the surface. The U.S. Embassy is extremely supportive, although handicapped by local refusal to automatically grant visas to same-sex spouses/partners (work-arounds have been found).
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many. While I don't feel as strongly as a previous poster about some of the UAE's social issues, it's still an authoritarian state run primarily for the benefit of its comparatively few citizens (possibly as little as 10% of the total population).Racism is rife in so many directions it can get funny - Emiratis vs everyone else, Arabs vs Westerners (and vs Indians, Asians, other Arabs, you name it), Muslims vs Christians, etc., etc. Women's rights are much talked about by UAE authorities even as a discriminatory traditional culture is highly promoted. Classism is overwhelming - the rich own things, the (smallish) middle makes it all run, and the (very large) underclass of laborers, maids, and the like do virtually all the heavy lifting. In any situation, any foreigner - whether a Pakistani day-worker or an Oxford-grad executive with years in the country - ranks below any Emirati; both are equally vulnerable to arbitrary arrest, deportation, and countless lesser hassles.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Enjoying the beaches that line the city's Cornice; traveling to places like Oman and Qatar; enjoying some things (such as household help and luxurious spas) that are prohibitively expensive at home.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Outdoors types will love the desert and the sea; some will love the shopping. When something special is on, AD can be fun - the Film Festival brings in new movies and stars, Abu Dhabi Classics hosts a few high-profile concerts, and there are pop concerts (Shakira, Stevie Wonder, Snoop Dogg, etc.) every few months.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Few if any Emirati crafts (prior to oil, there just wasn't all that much here).Some nice jewelry, crafts imported from India, Syria, etc. Local and regional travel.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Abu Dhabi blends the feeling of a big city with a surprising amount of greenery, easy access to the beach, and (although you have to work to find them) pockets of traditional Arabic culture. Although the city feels sprawling and spread out, few things are more than 20 or 30 minutes apart. For Westerners, most conveniences of home are easily available and the majority of concessions to local norms aren't terribly onerous (alcohol is readily available in many places; all but the most exposed styles of Western dress are tolerated, if not welcomed).The winter (approximately November through March) is lovely, with evenings cool enough at times to require a jacket or sweater. Dubai, which is flashier and has more silly things to do, is only an hour or so away, and lots of destinations are a short flight for long weekends. It's an expensive place to live, but once one knows how to shop economically and where to take advantage of specials and discounts, not outrageously so.
11. Can you save money?
If you're careful, possibly; if you need to live like an American in DC (or like a high-living expat), no.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Probably. The Emirates is a weird place in ways it's almost impossible to understand without being here, and it can get trying. For Embassy people, as previously noted, it's neither a warm nor an especially service-oriented work environment, but it's not actively awful, either. The summer is exhausting - but then there's the rest of the year, and there really are lots of advantages that, on the whole, outweigh the problems.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Parkas, expectations of being in a traditional Arabic culture, and idealism.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen, patience, and sense of adventure.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Not much - and be warned:"Sex and the City 2", while technically set in "Abu Dhabi", has nothing but nothing to do with life here (it was filmed in Morocco and is definitely a local sore point).
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
The Explorer Guide for Abu Dhabi residents.
