Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates Report of what it's like to live there - 07/17/11
Personal Experiences from Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, D.C.; 15 hours via Frankfurt.
3. How long have you lived here?
Three years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government service.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Roads are good and commute times are not too bad depending on what part of the city you're living in. In any case, commutes here beat any USA metro area commute; housing is varied but good - huge villas or apartments.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Everything is imported. You can get most Western goods and there are some very good supermarkets - Lulu chain and Carrefour. Pretty good grocery situation although not as much selection. You pay more if you want a specific brand or you want pork.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Any special medications although they have most.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Many good restaurants and fast food in malls; similar to the USA.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Limited. Not a lot of diet foods. Lots of Indian subcontinent and Arabic food. Western food for a price.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
In hot weather, ants come up into the houses; no mosquitoes.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Not an issue.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Visa sponsorship is costly and at end of service you have to deport your maid/nanny or find her other visa sponsorship. The sponsorship system creates a widespread slavery system in the UAE and domestic workers are routinely abused. Most non-diplomats withold their domestic workers' passports and put them on airplanes at the end of their service. If I were a domestic worker, I would never work in the UAE where you are treated like a dog by the system. The U.S. State Department ranks the UAE as a "Tier 2" (moderate violator) of Trafficking in Persons (TIP) but they should really be "Tier 3," along with the rest of the Gulf countries. Human beings are commodities in the UAE to be bought, sold and traded.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. They are fairly abundant.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
ATMs are plentiful, but there are debtor prisons and draconian laws about failing to pay credit card bills or bouncing a check, including significant jail time.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Probably. The UAEG will tolerate limited non-Muslim religious practice but don't try converting Emiratis or anything or you will be jailed or deported.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Abundant. Cost is reasonable.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You're generally fine with English although some basic Arabic is useful. Urdu is useful with cabbies and maintenance workers.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
They're making progress but not all buildings are handicapped-accessible.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Women should always sit in the back seat of a taxi and not engage the driver in conversation; never let a taxi driver into your house. Otherwise, cabbies are plentiful and reasonable. Abu Dhabi is gradually building out a city bus system, which is inexpensive.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Any kind of car; there are extensive garage and maintenance facilities although foreign parts may have to be ordered out at a premium.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes and reasonable cost.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
You can buy a phone and SIM service in the country. All phone networks are monitored by the UAE Ministry of Interior and there are only a couple of telecom providers. Blackberries are tolerated but UAE Ministry of Interior was trying to ban them in 2010, as they were having trouble bugging them. Some internet sites and articles are blocked. Remember, despite the glitzy hotels and buildings, this is a police state with no human rights.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes, but don't know all the regulations.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Yes.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, the UAE is growing and they outsource everything to expats. UAE is desperate for educated professionals and teachers, but remember, check the language of your contracts carefully and remember you have no legal rights in the UAE. If your employer decides they want to pay you less or don't have the money to pay you any more, you have no recourse. Emirati/Arabic companies routinely don't pay out last month's pay or severance pay - they find excuses not to pay you. Again, if you get into a royally-subsidized entity that's paying you well, you can live the good life for years but all that can end abruptly and get ugly in many cases. Do not/not get involved in any political activity.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business / professional. Women need to keep skirts and dresses at the knee or lower. No tank tops.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
I think there are several. Due to guest construction workers, there are probably 3 - 4 men for every woman in the UAE and assault cases on vulnerable women and girls are frequent; they police the roads thru extensive cameras and speed traps and exorbitant traffic fines. A parking ticket is about US$150; a speeding ticket could be US$200 - $500; a red light violation is US$650 or one week in jail or two weeks of car impoundment. It's easy to get a traffic violation and Emiratis routinely speed and pay out thousands of dollars to the UAEG; if you're on a budget, don't come to the UAE as you'll inevitably incur traffic fines; if you're a diplomat, you can't export your car or sell it without paying your fines and your Embassy won't help you. The most dangerous part of the UAE is driving.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is hit or miss. There are a lot of bad doctors interspersed with some good ones. The technology is there but not everybody knows how to use it. Dentists are after your money. Don't use Gulf Diagnostic Hospital in Abu Dhabi - they have no standards of care; patients are routinely misdiagnosed and mis-medicated, and the hospital treats their employees terribly. If you get sick, go to Sheikh Khalifa Medical Center (SKMC). SKMC is in a tie-up with Johns Hopkins University and the Cleveland Clinic but it remains to be seen if this will improve medical services in Abu Dhabi. Select your dentist carefully and preferably by reference.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate. A lot of sand and dust in the air. Occasional sand storms come over from Saudi Arabia, but otherwise hot and sunny every day.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
From December through February it's beautiful. It sprinkles rain maybe five days a year at most; always sunny for the most part except for occasional sandstorms. From April through October temps are brutally hot and everybody stays indoors.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
International schools are all good. British- and American-curriculum schools are all very good.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Check with the invididual school but culturally, not a lot of accommodation and there's stigma.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool situation is tough. There is not a lot of availability although it's improving. If you're moving here, you need to contact preschools in advance and get on waiting lists. Most preschools are run by Western staff and you can register or make contact online.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but more for boys and less for girls. Not too extensive outside of soccer / football.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
UAE is about 15% native Emiratis. 85% of the population are guest workers, with Indians being the largest expat community, followed by Pakistanis, and then maybe Filipinos. There are roughly 400,000 westerners, many in Dubai, led by Brits and then Americans and Australians, some French.
2. Morale among expats:
The UAE is about making money; if you're making good money and your kids are in good schools, it's not a bad life until you get fired, jailed or deported for something. Europeans, in particular, thrive on the tax-free salary and low gasoline prices for all.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Good. Kids in the expat schools have a great time. Westerners have money and a good social life with other westerners. There's not a lot of ethnic mixing. Emiratis keep to themselves and other Gulf Arabs.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
The UAE is an authoritarian regime and a police state where third-country nationals and guest workers have no rights; being a diplomat keeps you out of jail, but that's about it. People move to the UAE to make money but the risks and rewards are both high. In theory, Abu Dhabi is a good city for families with nice parks and malls. If you're happy making money and taking high risks for getting fired or deported in an atmosphere where there is no social justice, this could be for you. The American Embassy provides no personal services for its staff - so you are completely on your own in terms of getting your car registered; setting up and paying for home phone and internet. As such you will be subject to extra "fee payments" in a system where there is a very immature legal system. It is a very unhelpful embassy. NGOs are routinely shut down and democracy activists are jailed. For singles, Dubai might be better but remember sex outside of marriage and drinking alchohol (without a permit) is against the law and can easily land you in jail.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
No. It's a conservative muslim country; gays are at risk although they definitely exist underground.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
A lot. There is extensive ethnic and gender discrimination. Number one, the Sunni rulers hate Shia and actively try and deny visas to Shia and those countries that are in political disagreement with the UAE. Secondly, women are routinely treated as second-class citizens and have a code of conduct and significantly fewer rights in the legal system. Single women can have trouble getting visas unless escorted by a male relative. There is significant ethnic profiling; even among expats, Brits and Americans will be paid more in the private sector than Australians. Emiratis are at the top, then other Gulf Arabs and then there's everybody else. The UAE does not grant citizenship to any non-Emiratis ever, except in very limited circumstances - like a decree from a Sheikh.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Traffic fines are five times what they are in the United States or Europe, and wreckless driving is abundant; the American Embassy won't help you. The UAE is set up by Emiratis for Emiratis; everybody else is a guest worker subject to firing or deportation at any minute. Foreigners (non-UAE nationals) have absolutely no legal rights; if you were to harm or injure an Emirati somehow, you could be put in jail and be subject to high payments to get yourself out. You can make a lot of money in the UAE, but you're at high personal risk.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Many water parks, great restaurants and hotels. India is a 2-hour flight from the UAE; Europe is a 6-hour flight, etc.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Persian carpets; Indian fabrics; chocolates; hotel getaways and water parks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
You can make a lot of money in the private sector; non-American G8 earn tax-free; work holidays are in abundance.
11. Can you save money?
Yes; especially for Europeans who don't have to pay taxes back home. Americans can pay reduced taxes under "Foreign Earned Income" regulations.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely not. It's a morally bankrupt country where nobody, except Emiratis, have any legal rights. The American Embassy is the most unhelpful I've ever experienced. Traffic fines are exorbitant and private sector workers can be fired or not paid for no reason at a moment's notice. Pick another country please. At least they don't behead in the UAE.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Morality, sense of social justice, and wallet. Be prepared to pay the Abu Dhabi police a lot of money in traffic "fines."
3. But don't forget your:
Diplomatic Passport, if you have one, and your lawyer's phone number.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Google recent articles - "The Making of a Police State" and a 2010 or 2011 New Yorker article about living in Dubai.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
I think parts of "Syriana" were filmed in Abu Dhabi.
6. Do you have any other comments?
The UAE is all image. If you go there, just make sure the money is worth the risk you're putting yourself at. If you're an American diplomat, you don't want to serve at at an Embassy that cares more about protecting its military relationship than its own employees. For private sector, check all your contracts carefully.
