Valletta, Malta Report of what it's like to live there - 09/29/25
Personal Experiences from Valletta, Malta
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, also lived in Guatemala and France.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Probably about 16 hours total travel time to get to DC, since there's always a layover somewhere in Europe. However, Delta is supposedly opening a direct flight to NYC sometime in 2026.
3. What years did you live here?
2024-2026.
4. How long have you lived here?
1.5 years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Almost everyone lives in apartments, mostly in Sliema. There are also apartments scattered elsewhere throughout the island as well as some townhouses. We have three children and received a lovely townhouse in quiet Attard, which is a 10 minute walk from the embassy. We have a very large basement garage and a small pool and we're very happy with our housing. However, most housing in Malta is going to be much smaller than what you might be used to: living rooms are extremely small (ours barely fits a couple chairs) and you probably won't receive as many bedrooms as you would elsewhere. Our house is a 3 bedroom but is listed as a 4 bedroom because it includes the main floor den as a bedroom (it's not).
Commutes to and from Sliema can be anywhere from 25-50 minutes. It's not a very easy place to drive in and out of, but the waterfront view is lovely. It's often very loud in Sliema and the fireworks are never ending - some dogs have a very hard time there. One big advantage to Sliema is that you'll probably be able to have a bit more walkable life and meet up with other mission friends a bit more easily.
No matter where you live, your kids will probably not be able to walk to/play with friends by themselves without arranging and taking them to play dates. That's the biggest thing we wish we had in Malta. Your kids will only be able to run and play if you take them to one of the few parks that have enough open space. I believe I read that Malta has the highest obesity rate in the EU and I bet this is a contributing factor.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Basically everything is available, although we haven't been able to find real corn tortillas anywhere. Beef is quite expensive and ground beef has a different texture here that we don't enjoy. Everything else is priced reasonably to cheap, in my opinion, although my Maltese friends tell me cost of living has skyrocketed in recent years and average Maltese salaries haven't kept up.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Costco chocolate chips, since they're only sold in tiny expensive packages here (otherwise you end up chopping up chocolate bars every time your kids want cookies!).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
You can find most cuisines, to varying degrees of quality. Wolt is the food delivery app and it works very well.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
When we first moved in we had a problem with sugar ants which were easily treated. This last summer we had a major problem with fruit flies and we still haven't been able to completely eradicate them. In general, there are very few critters in Malta!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, pouch, and you can also easily receive packages through local mail if you wish.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available, although I've found quality of cleaning is much worse than we were used to in Guatemala. Average price is about 11-12 euros/hour.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Completely safe to do anything alone, but be cautious of cars. Malta is completely car-dominated, mostly without bike lanes, and often with crumbling or non-existant sidwalks. Hikes are really enjoyable here, especially in the spring when the whole island turns green. Gozo is delightful for any outdoor activities.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Lots, mostly very small and in my opinion pricey for what you get.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, widely accepted, but not 100%. ATMs are safe.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Everything, although there's only one real synagogue and mosque in Malta.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. You can absolutely take Maltese classes if it interests you, but locals don't expect you to know any.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes, it would be very, very difficult to be in a wheelchair in Malta. I can't actually think of ever seeing anyone out and about in a wheelchair here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Once you have a residency card I believe you can get a free bus pass. They're often crowded and don't come at reliable intervals, however. Bolts and Ubers are easy and not too expensive. Malta's roads are so overloaded and there's such a rapid increase in migration that I can't imagine what the traffic situation will be like here in 10 years. The island desperately needs some kind of train system.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
As small as possible. It will 100% get dinged and scratched up, so nothing you really care about. Almost everyone just buys from people leaving.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but getting Maltese technicians to come install it is a major pain. It took three weeks for ours to get installed, with the technician just not showing up multiple times on the day he said he'd come. You have to be very patient and accept the Mediterranean pace of life.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
We use GO for our data plan and local number, but everyone mostly messages through WhatsApp.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Good vets and haven't had to use kennel services. No quarantine. To me, it seems like Malta would be hard for dogs with the lack of green space to run and the constant fireworks. The Maltese LOVE cats, though; there are cat villages set up in every town and the feral cats are fed, watered, and loved. Watch the documentary "The Cats of Malta" for an interesting look at the cat culture!
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
With the freeze, most are currently not working locally. A few that had jobs before still work in the embassy and a couple teach or substitute at the international schools. Local salary scales are low. Teachers should expect to be offered 40-45,000 euros and at least 25% of that will be deducted for taxes. However, paying taxes entitles you to free daycare/preschool if you use an eligible center and free busing for your preschool-aged child.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Lots of volunteer work centered around refugees and migrants.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Smart dress at work, surprisingly casual out of work in public. You'll never see so many men in shorts and tank tops anywhere else in Europe.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Just being aware of cars. Malta has very low crime rates.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The old, humid limestone buildings with no central air and lots of people crowded in them feel unhealthy. I worked in a school last year and I've never been so sick so frequently in my life. Private medical care seems quite good. We've been happy with all the specialists we've seen at St. James.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
AQI can get unpleasant at times, but it's fine. Seasonal Sahara dust will leave your patio coated several times a year. I haven't noticed any negative impact personally.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Definitely no SAD, the winters are in general very lovely here, but island fever/claustrophobia is real. If you take advantage of the budget airline tickets and travel frequently you'll be fine. There's a reason why Malta is one of the few European posts with R&Rs.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Summers are like DC summers, but honestly usually not quite as hot (locals are shocked when I tell them that!). Fall and spring are delightful, and winter can feel much colder than the actual temperature because of the wind, humidity, and limestone buildings.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My elementary-aged kids go to QSI and we've had a wonderful experience there. It's a lovely, joyful, nurturing environment. It's small so there's often just one class per grade, but we've had great teachers so far. I'm a high school teacher and I can vouch that my daughter's teacher last year was the best elementary school teacher I've ever seen. There aren't as many or as varying after school activities as you'll find at large international schools, but it's been good for my kids. QSI has a twice a week free extracurricular program that meets during the school day. We've appreciated that because the school day goes until almost 4 and it's nice to not have quite so long a day. There are after school activities you can sign your kids up for every day, though, if you need to cover time until you get home from work.
Usually embassy kids are split about 50/50 between QSI and Verdala. Currently I think about 2/3 are at Verdala. Neither QSI nor Verdala offers a high school education and experience comparable to the US, but if you will definitely be in Malta with teenagers and don't want to do boarding school, Verdala is probably a better option if only because it's bigger.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
QSI is very accomodating. The "mastery learning" approach means my gifted son gets to work on more advanced levels of work alongside the rest of his class. My oldest daughter's class has a boy with severe cognitive disabilities included in the class whenever possible and working with a 1:1 teacher at other times. I value inclusion programs, which most international schools don't participate in, so I appreciate their effort. Other embassy families at Verdala have aides that work with their neurodivergent children as well and have had good experiences.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
My youngest daughter attends QSI preschool. It's about 9,000 euros per year and more expensive than we wanted to pay, but I toured several of the local preschools (called "kindergarten" for ages 3 and 4 here) and found them too depressing. The facilities are very, very small and crowded and there is very limited outdoor space, if any. I was willing to pay thousands more simply to give her the chance to run around in QSI's large outdoor space and play on a real playground. We've also been very happy with her teachers.
Maltese schools get out around 1 pm, so if you're looking for child care coverage the international schools will have the longest hours offered for preschoolers. It's a real problem for 3 and 4 year olds in my opinion: daycare for infants through 2 year olds is full day, but Kindergarten 3 and 4 ends early. My local friends have told me that literally every Maltese family has grandparents or other extended family members who pick up and take care of the kids if both parents work, but it's a difficult gap for expats.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Tons, basically anything you can think of. It's a huge advantage of being in Malta as your children can participate in any local activity they want without any language barrier. My kids have done gymnastics, dance, piano lessons, sports, and were in a play with a local musical theatre group. The only barrier may be getting them to activities, as many start by 4:30 since Maltese schools end so early.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small but good morale. If you can get over the annoying parts of Malta (traffic, impossible parking, crumbling infrastructure, tons of construction, difficulty getting service workers to show up, etc), Malta is an absolutely delightful place! We leave in six months and I'm already sad about leaving. There's absolutely nowhere in the world like this island.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
The embassy families with kids often meet up at the embassy pool over the summer, and CLO events are well-attended. We started a book club this last year that's been really fun. There was an EFM hiking/beach day group this last year, and others meet up for bike rides on the weekends. The marines have done several paintball activities recently. I'm in an expat women's hiking and theatre group.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Great for everyone, I think.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Not just off the street, but if you have another intersecting point with locals we've made some nice friends. We have lovely Maltese neighbors across the street who have invited us over several times and I'm good friends with Maltese I met at my school last year.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There's definitely some internalized homophobia (the majority of Maltese are conservative Catholic) but that won't define your experience by a long shot. There's a very active LGBT community and Pride in Valletta is a really fun event.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, there's a lot of xenophobia towards migrants and 3rd country nationals. I see and hear racist attitudes directed towards them regularly. Maltese men are also in general a bit chauvanist.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I'll never get tired of Mdina and Valletta. Snorkeling and diving is so accessible and lovely. Sunset paddleboard tours of the coastline and caves have been some of my favorite things. Hiking, walking tours, incredible history from the Neolithic to the Knights of Malta to WWII. The Underground Valletta tour and the Lascaris War Rooms tour were fascinating and eye-opening. I doubt most people are aware of just how hard WWII hit Malta. It was the most Axis-bombed country of the war; one average day of bombs dropped on Malta was more than the entirety of bombs dropped on London during the Blitz.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Make sure you get tickets two months in advance for the Hypogeum because it sells out that early. It's absolutely a must! It's older than Stonehenge and the pyramids and one of the world's best preserved ancient monuments.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Glass, ceramics and tile, and lace are some of the traditional handicrafts.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Weather, history, easy and cheap flights to European cities, English language activities.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Definitely.
