Lome, Togo Report of what it's like to live there - 08/19/25
Personal Experiences from Lome, Togo
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This was our fourth assignment with the Department of State. We have been overseas for 25 years in different roles.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our family is in the U.S. There are direct flights to New York and DC on Ethiopian and easy flights through Brussels and Paris from Lome. The total trip took between 15-25 hours or so depending on where in the U.S. you would end up.
3. What years did you live here?
2021-2025.
4. How long have you lived here?
Four years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission with the U.S. Department of State.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
The Embassy provided us housing. Most were typically quite large, with some kind of garden, and sometimes a pool. It was in a very safe neighborhood, close to shops and activities and work, and easy to get around. Most residences in the neighborhood had full-time guards, generators, and water tanks. Most people had a 5-20 minute commute depending on where they worked in the city. Most had private vehicles or drivers, or used the local taxi service Uber.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
You can find just about everything in Lomé now, the selection has increased tremendously. At times things are quite expensive, or may have a stale taste, but there are enough options to get what you need. There are limited organic, environmentally friendly, or special products like gluten- free, but even this is improving.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Chocolate chips and brown sugar.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There were a good number of restaurants and delivery services for a variety of cuisines. It was easy to find pizza, burgers, Indian, chinese, and other foods. Local food options were everywhere, as well as a few wonderful places with a fusion. Many people will use Gozem to deliver their food, or have a contact of someone who can run around and do errands.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
It's typical to find cockroaches, ants, gheckos, mosquitos or termites in houses or on the property in general.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is FedEx, DHL, and a local post office service. Some embassies have internal mail facilities.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
It's very easy to find great people to work at home. Many people have housekeepers, nannies, drivers, gardeners, pool technicians, and guards. It's not too expensive to employ them but you are required by Togolese law to have a contract and pay their social security and health benefits. On average a fair full-time salary was between $175-300.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Most of the city is really safe to get around in. There are some places that aren't as ideal for running, walking or cycling, but there are many places where you can do that. Lome Accueil has some great files about the different areas where many expats live and they detail a lot around this question. As a family we used to go bike riding in the University grounds. There is amazing hiking in Kpalime and Atakpame.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are an increasing number of gyms and sports in Lomé. There is a sports club in the La Caisse neighborhood and many smaller fitness gyms dotted around. It's easy to find personal trainers who can come to the house. And there are tons of sports and coaches for things including tennis, swimming, boxing, padel, squash, horse riding, acrobatic gymnastics, zumba, Karate, capoeira, roller blading, skateboarding, soccer, basketball etc. On average it costs between 3.000-10.000 CFA depending on the sport, session, and coach.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are being accepted more and more. Most of the main grocery stores accept them, many of the hotels and nicer restaurants, and even the local delivery service and taxi application can link to one. ATMs are dotted around the city and are generally safe to use.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
A variety of mixed language services are available. It's easier to find French services than English but they do exist.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Life in Lomé is much easier if you have French, as most of the activities and places have French speakers, whether expats or locals. The dominant language in Lomé is Ewe/Mina so it's useful to learn the basic greetings but you can usually find ways to translate or understand each other with English or French. There are French classes at the French Institute and plenty of tutors who can teach French or Ewe at home.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
The terrain can be challenging as they don't have things like ramps, signaling at traffic lights for pedestrians, good paved sidewalks, or accessible doors. It's easy to hire someone who can help to support you with specific needs, but it can be more challenging.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The local Gozem service (like Uber) is safe for the most part and definitely affordable. Most expats don't use the local bus or other services. There are no trams, trains or other.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
It's recommended to bring a high clearance vehicle like an SUV, and if you want to leave Lomé for different adventures a vehicle with 4x4 is ideal, especially in the rainy season. You will be more comfortable as well with a vehicle with operating AC due to the heat, rain, dust and mosquitos.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, there are two companies that provide fibre optic internet, Canal+ and Yas (formerly Togocom). It usually takes a few days but some can wait a couple of weeks. The service does get interrupted often mainly due to power cuts so it's recommended to plug your internet router into a UPS which can be purchased locally.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Togo finally launched eSim in January 2025 so you can now bring in unlocked devices with eSim capability. Most people prefer having a local number to be able to easily communicate with local providers, locations, and employees. It's easy to get a local number, it just requires a visit to the local phone company and proof of identity. Local plans are not too expensive, 60GB of data was about 15,000 CFA per month.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are a few vets that expats use so most have the service and support they need. The most popular and well known vet is from Germany and has extensive experience and training both in Europe and in Togo.
There are specific regulations for the importation of animals including specific vaccinations, but typically there is no quarantine. You do need an Import Certificate. It's important to ensure that your pet (if not solely an indoor pet) has strong medication against ticks and worms. And it's recommended to bring in any supplies you may need.
There are an increasing number of things in Lome available now, but if your pet needs a special type of food or medicine, you should bring it with you. It's hot, so you have to be mindful of the heat for walking and leaving them outside. But there are plenty of places to walk them, and dogs usually love the beach and the lake.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Many partners will work virtually from home, in a school, or a local NGO. Salaries are extremely varied depending on where you work and whether you are on a local or foreign contract.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
There are several opportunities to volunteer, whether it's an orphanage or with your church, or at places like the local horse riding club.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Fairly informal with lots of local fabric. Suits and ties for men or formal business attire for women for professional meetings or events, but otherwise many will dress to be comfortable in the heat.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is an increasing amount of terrorist activity and challenges in the North so most people cannot travel north of Kara. Otherwise it's quite safe. Being street smart is important, don't be obvious, keep your bag close, lock your doors etc. Common sense security awareness is important.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Lomé has a lot of malaria and many people will struggle at times during the year with respiratory issues due to the dust or mold caused by humidity. Medical care can be great, and it can be extremely challenging depending on what you need. There is a fairly new hospital with good care and doctors, and a few reliable clinics.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Depends on the season. During Harmattan it can be very dusty with poorer air quality. At other times of the year people struggle with mold due to the humid and tropical climate.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
Bring medicines you need, use air purifiers or dehumidifiers in the house, bring in any specific food items that you need.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Some people feel isolated in Lomé, especially if they don't have French or if they don't get out often. It can be lonely staying home, so it's important to make connections and travel and explore as often as possible. There are a lot of English speaking expats, and a lot of French speaking expats, and many will find Togolese friends too.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tropical, hot, humid for the most part, but there are some cooler seasons, especially when it rains.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are several good school options in Lome including the Lycee Francais, the British School of Lome, Arc-en-Ciel and Cours Lumiere. Most have a good variety of education options, sports, international teachers and links to different curriculums. If your child has any special needs, this could be more challenging so it's important to reach out to the schools before coming to Togo to make sure they will have the right support.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
It depends. The schools are making more and more efforts to provide services and support for kids with special needs.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are plenty of preschool and daycare options that aren't too expensive. Most are well known and have a good reputation. The main schools all have preschool programs, usually starting around 2 years old, and many smaller daycare centers exist too.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Absolutely, there are so many options for sports and activities for kids. You may have to search, be creative with your schedule and how you get to the activitiy or bring it to your home. That said, Lomé is an amazing post for young families. Middle and high schoolers tend to have fewer options only because it's harder for them to be independently mobile, but there are lots of good activities for all.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are hundreds of expats in Lomé and beyond. There are many diplomats, missionaries, and people working for schools and NGOs. The morale is overall good, but mainly for those who get out and explore Togo and get involved in activities and
networks. There is a great group called Lome Accueil who does tons of events and networking.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Join Lome Accueil, and the WhatsApp group Lome Ladies for all the information you
need about life in Togo.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This can be a great post for all people. The ones who have the hardest time are
sometimes singles, but many single people have a great group of friends and really take
advantage of what there is to offer in the country. It really depends on your attitude, your
ability to 'make your own adventure' and whether you have special needs or
preferences that can't be met.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
It can be easy, but sometimes there is a barrier simply because of cultural or economic
differences. No matter where you come from, expats are obvious and will be referred to
as 'yovo'.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's not ideal as it's officially illegal in Togo. Amongst expats it's accepted and you
can find ways to be open and comfortable.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Togo is a traditional society so there can be some challenges depending on your
religion, gender, or sexual preferences. It's a fairly male-dominated society, but women
are respected and many are in leadership positions. The majority of people in Togo are
Christian, but there is a sizable population of Muslims and many who practice
traditional religions like voodoo.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
We have absolutely loved living in Togo. The people are the most kind, generous,
gracious, and welcomimg we have seen in Africa. There are so many opportunities to
explore, to be in nature, to do different things, and to have a good experience.
Despite challenges such as heat, malaria, poor air quality at times, and difficulties withpower/water/internet etc, it really is a hidden gem and life can be really great. We will forever hold Togo in our hearts, and all the memories we made in Lome and Kpalime
especially. Our domestic employees will be family forever, and we will never forget all
the wonderful artisans, providers, and coaches who made our time special.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Do a batik workshop with Ahoe Creations
Visit wood sculptors and artists Dodji and Amelie at TayeTaye
Do a natural painting or pottery workshop in Kpalime
Have lunch at the lake
Bring your SUP or kayak and paddle the lake and surrounding river and estuary
Surf at Aneho
Spend time in nature in Kpalime - waterfalls, hiking, workshops, artisans, etc.
Sign up for personal coaching for a new sport or activity
Go on a nighttime bike tour of Lome
Go horse riding on the beach
Take horse riding lessons at Club Hippique or just have a coffee and enjoy the quiet
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Beautiful artisanal products: wood, fabric, metal, beads, vintage trunks and furniture.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
So easy to get around, short commute times, super kind and welcoming people, lots of
activities to do, beautiful artisanal products, decent climate, beautiful culture, close to
travel opportunities in the region and good flight connections to other countries, and
fairly good education options especially for kids under 12.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Bring your sense of adventure and anything you can't live without. Learn French and a
few phrases in Ewe.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
ABSOLUTELY
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
worry about being sweaty, expectations of life in Europe or the U.S., fancy heels and
jewelry, and closed-minded attitudes.
4. But don't forget your:
hot weather clothing, sports gear, mosquito spray, sunscreen, sunglasses,
Uninterrupted Power Supply units, optimistic outlook and sense of adventure.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Togo is a special place and most expats we know had a lot of sadness when they left.
Some choose to stay. :-)
