Freetown, Sierra Leone Report of what it's like to live there - 05/17/25
Personal Experiences from Freetown, Sierra Leone
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Several countries on multiple continents.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
The U.S. Most travel goes through Belgium and takes at least 20 hours by plane. There are other options through Ghana, Kenya, Morocco, and Turkey, but many have longer layovers so your total travel time is about the same if not longer. The 20 hours also doesn’t include the time it takes to get to and from the airport in Sierra Leone.
The Freetown airport is across the Sierra Leone river and the only way to get to Freetown is either by ferry or driving. The drive is at least 3 hours and probably not the best option considering that many flights leave and depart late in the evening. It'll also cost you more, and you may have to deal with cars breaking down in less than convenient locations. A ferry ride to and from Freetown is more reliable, but will add several hours to your trip. The ferry ride itself is only 30-45 minutes, but there's a lot of waiting involved. Expect to add 5-6 hours to your journey when you're departing and 3-4 hours when you're arriving. Take Dramamine if you're prone to seasickness.
3. What years did you live here?
Up until now (2025).
4. How long have you lived here?
A couple of years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
diplomatic mission
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I can only speak for the Embassy. Housing is pretty large. Several rooms depending on family size and availability. Some families dislike the layouts of their houses. Others have no issues. As of now, all housing is very close to the embassy, further away from the downtown area. Longest commute is a five minute car ride. Many of the roads leading to the embassy aren’t paved. Most have occasional issues with electricity, internet, water, and shoddy construction. Most issues are generally handled well by the landlord or sevice provider, but you have to stay on top of things.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are expensive. Most things are imported. You can buy fruits and vegetables locally, but even much of those are imported as well. Many Embassy families shop at the Lebanese owned supermarkets that tend to be more reliable in terms of cold storage and sanitation, but are more expensive than what you would find in the U.S.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can’t get attached to specific brands or items because you never know when they’ll be available. Most Embassy families use their consumables shipment to send liquids and then send dry goods through the pouch. I would recommend doing a small consumables shipment before arriving at post and then doing a second larger consumables shipment after you arrive when you can really see what and how much you need since it seems that a lot of people buy too many things and end up giving it away or selling it at the end of their tour.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few restaurants that deliver. Pizza, etc. There’s nothing like Uber Eats, so you work with the restaurant directly. There are a couple of nice sitdown restaurants in town. A few restaurants by the beach or at one of the hotels. Nothing spectacular, but nice enough.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Snakes and lizards in yards. Keep your doors closed because sometimes snakes and lizards will get into your house. Spiders. Millipedes. Ants are an issue. Mosquitos and other flying insects of course. And then there’s the occasional roach. And yes they do fly as well.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Embassy families use pouch. Sending mail locally would be extremely difficult and unreliable.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is readily available. Nannies, cooks, housekeepers, gardeners, etc. Cost depends on if they’re full time or part time. I’ve seen full time staff be paid anywhere from $200 to $350 a month. Embassy families tend to be more generous.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
I don’t think you’re in much physical danger here in Sierra Leone. But there is the occasional robbery that you have to be aware of. I think the biggest issue would be the lack of good sidewalks. You’d probably injure yourself walking around outside before you get hurt by someone else. There is Leicster Peak where some embassy staff like to hike.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The embassy has a gym. There’s a golf course and rock climbing wall in the city. Prices are okay.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
The larger hotels as well as the Lebanese supermarkets will accept credit cards. I would be very cautious of using it anywhere else. Most things are cash based. The largest denomination is 20 leones, so it’s very common for people to carry bags of money. Just be careful around town.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
It’s an English-speaking country. Many religious services are available.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
English is the official language, but Krio is the lingua franca. It’s fairly easy to understand the general gist of a Krio conversation if you concentrate hard enough without any additional training, but confusion does occur. The embassy has a Krio tutor available. Older individuals may not speak English at all. Some don't even speak Krio and only speak one of their local languages, Fulla, Madingo, etc.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Absolutely. Would not recommend.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Embassy staff are not permitted to take public transit so we rely on motor pool. There are private drivers and vehicles available that may be safe to use. For non-embassy personnel who choose to take kek-keks and taxis, be careful. A lot of people have been robbed, and it's very unsafe.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Don't bring anything nice. Most vehicles can handle driving in the city. You'd need something a little bit more robust if you want to drive outside of Freetown. You may have issues getting your car serviced though.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. There are a number of local internet providers that provide high speed internet. Price has slowly come down since we've been here, but still fairly expensive. The cheapest option is now under $100 a month, but I would probably still shell out a little bit more for more speed.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Africell and Orange are readily available and easy to top up. You can buy sim cards as soon as you land.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There's a vet available. They're okay from what I've heard.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Embassy spouses tend work at the embassy. Some people telework for their U.S. based office. There is an NGO sector, but not sure how easy or hard it is to find a job there though.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Orphanages, people with disabilities, helping people with albinism, etc.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Most are business casual. On Fridays, everyone wears Africana print.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Freetown is generally safe. Although there was a coup attempt a few years ago. Nobody really targets foreigners. Violent crime tends to be rare. Be on the lookout for petty crime, robberies, scams, etc.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Malaria, digestive issues. This is a developing country, so be prepared for anything. The vast majority of things cannot be handled here and will require a medevac to London or the states for treatment.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality can get bad with all of the dust. This gets really bad during the dry season. Each house is equipped with air purifiers.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
There isn’t a whole lot to do in Sierra Leone and it’s logistically difficult and expensive to travel out of here, so it can get a bit lonely and boring. The job can also be very stressful. Depression for some.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Rainy and dry season. It rains constantly during the rainy season from around May to October. November to April is dry and hot.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There’s the American school and the British School. They’re okay…… there’s no reliable high school here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
I can speak to the diplomatic community. Morale varies a lot. Some people absolutely love it here. Others cannot wait to leave, but I think most people are in the middle.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There are beaches, bars, and clubs. Most people tend to socialize at each other’s houses.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
For single people, maybe? It depends on what you like. For families, household help is very cheap so it’s easy to have large families here.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Sierra Leone does criminalize homosexuality, but it’s not enforced. You’ll likely be fine in expat circles. Not so much in the local population.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Actually, yes. Sierra Leoneans tend to be friendly and open and tolerant of others.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Meeting the people.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are a few nice beaches and restaurants.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Big Market is where many foreigners go to shop for local goods.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Perspective.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The airport really is in a horrible location. Taking the ferry just to get to and from the airport is exhausting.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I think this would be a good one year post. Anything beyond that is too much. I would never want to come here for this long ever again.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
winter clothes.
4. But don't forget your:
anti-malarials.
5. Do you have any other comments?
Your overall happiness will likely depend on the people you work with, the work that you do, your satisfaction with life outside of work, and the happiness of your family members. You may be satisfied if only one of those things is lacking, but once two or three of those things is lacking, this becomes a very difficult post. Coworkers are generally pleasant, but that can easily change once new people come in.
Work can be stressful because there are a lot of vacancies and doing work in Sierra Leone can be hard for various reasons. There isn't a lot to do here and it's hard and expensive to get out, so you can feel trapped at times. This is an extremely impoverished country, so everything is just harder in general. And your family's satisfaction is also impacted by most of the things described as well as availability of jobs, and quality of schools for kids.
