Valletta, Malta Report of what it's like to live there - 05/24/23

Personal Experiences from Valletta, Malta

Valletta, Malta 05/24/23

Background:

1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?

No. I've lived in Nogales, Mexico; Lima, Peru; Buenos Aires, Argentina; Beijing, China; and Kuwait City, Kuwait.

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2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?

USA. There are no direct flights between the United States and Malta, so there is a connection through Europe. Travel arrangements are easy as there are many flights to connect, but you can expect 13-20+ hours of travel to get there from the east coast of the United States.

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3. How long have you lived here?

Three years.

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4. What years did you live here?

2018-2021.

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5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?

Diplomatic mission.

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Housing, Groceries & Food:

1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?

Housing was phenomenal and I loved it. Most housing within the embassy housing pool will be apartments, but I found them to be generously sized and comfortably appointed. Many of us were house in Sliema, but there is housing available throughout the areas near the embassy. Commute times could vary, but commute times were generally no more than 20-25 minutes by car. Traffic accidents or road construction could extend commutes by hours - I only experienced this 1-2 times in three years, so it was not an issue for me. Note that the roads are generally narrow, with two-lane streets not always being wide enough for two cars to actually drive in opposing directions. Parking spaces in lots or garages are also quite small, with no room really to open your car door once you've parked. Expect wear and tear on your car.

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2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?

For a western European country, I thought the cost of groceries and household supplies was rather low. I lived next door to a green grocer and across the street from a butcher, where I did the majority of my shopping. Fishmongers were easily found, and I was a 5-10 minute walk from a decently sized grocery store that would remind Americans more of grocery stores from home. Meat, fish, poultry, fresh vegetables and fruits, and all kinds of dry goods are easily found.

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3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?

I easily adapt to the local environment in terms of household or grocery items, so I didn't wish for anything.

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4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?

There is a a wide variety of restaurants, food delivery, and take-out available in Malta. Dining outdoors is a common pastime for the Maltese and there are many opportunities to do so throughout the country and even along the water.

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5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?

I did not experience any issues with insects or infestations in my housing.

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Daily Life:

1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?

There is DPO at post. I also made occasional use of the Maltese post; sending anything internationally will take weeks to months, but local mail is quick.

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2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?

Many families were able to get nannies for their children at a fairly reasonable cost, but know that you will pay more in Malta than you would in a developing world country. I employed a cleaning service on a weekly basis for approximately $100-150 a month and I was very happy with their service.

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3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?

I used a personal training gym that was on the high end for cost, at approximately $350/month. Gyms are generally less than that and widely available, but I wanted one-on-one personal trainers. There is also a small gym and a crossfit area in a warehouse on the embassy compound; both of these are free to the embassy community. The Marines have their own separate gym that is not open to the embassy staff, but at times the gunny or one/some of the marines may open up the gym and host fitness classes for the community.

Beyond gyms, there are many athletic activities available to people living in Malta. From martial arts and dance studios to diving and swimming and running clubs, you can find a wide range of activities to pursue.

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4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?

Credit cards are fairly widely accepted and completely safe to use. ATMs are also widely available and safe to use.

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5. What English-language religious services are available locally?

Malta has many churches. The Maltese claim that you can visit a different church everyday for at least a year. The majority of Maltese are Roman Catholic, but I am aware of some Jewish temples and centers of worship for Islam. There may be others; the Maltese are generally quite accepting of other religious beliefs.

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6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?

The two national languages in Malta are Maltese and English so a grasp of either language will serve you well. There are language classes and tutors available, but I do not know the costs.

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7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?

Absolutely, yes. People living with physical disabilities are almost entirely invisible in Malta, though they do exist. They are very isolated at home and underemployed. Sidewalks are not wide enough for strollers, let alone for wheelchairs, and the infrastructure is often not enough for someone with mobility issues to be able to get around easily. Curb cut-outs are often non-existent, as are elevators and ramps.

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Transportation:

1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?

Taxis are incredibly safe and affordable, again from a western Europe perspective. Buses are safe and even more affordable, but operate on a spoke and wheel system so can be inefficient for certain routings. There are no subways, trams, or trains.

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2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?

Importing vehicles can take a lot of time, so I suggest buying at post. You can purchase from a departing diplomat or at any used car lot; many low-mileage Hyundais are sold for under $6k. Burglary/carjacking risks are low (I never heard of any of these types of crimes). Smaller cars/vehicles are strongly suggested as the roads are narrow. Don't bring/buy vehicles that are precious; you will have lots of small dings and dents no matter how hard you try.

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Phone & Internet:

1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?

High-speed home internet is very accessible and I believe most people spend less than $100/month (mine was free so I can't quote a price). Installation takes less than a week; I helped my sponsee get internet before his arrival, so if you have a willing colleague, this can be done.

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2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?

My main mobile phone was provided by the embassy. I had some minor difficulty trying to get a functioning cell line for a visitor; the company tried to lure me into paying for a month-to-month plan when I had clearly paid for a single month upfront and did not use more than a week. This was a bit of a trouble, but resolved with the help of a Maltese colleague; it is the only experience I have of mobile phones in-country.

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Pets:

1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?

I did not take a pet to post, but many people did. Quality vets are readily available in Malta, as are pet stores. I don't know the related costs or quarantine issues. Not all housing allows pets, so if you want to bring a pet, you must be very clear on your housing survey about that point.

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Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:

1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?

There are some jobs for spouses at the Embassy, but some spouses did not choose to work. I knew one spouse who did work full-time on the local economy; they were not paid the same as they would have been for equal work in the United States, but the job entitled them to free daycare when their children were ready for it.

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2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?

The embassy brought in young people on exchange programs who volunteered with a number of NGOs that work with the refugee population in Malta. I personally volunteered with the MSPCA, helping to care for the dogs and cats there. I am confident there are other volunteer opportunities available, but those were the opportunities that I had personal experience with.

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3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?

Given the temperate climate, I would say that the general dress code at work was business casual for women, while men tended to wear suits and ties. The Maltese tend to dress smart casual and dress to impress. If you are a member of the diplomatic community or a supporter of the arts, you can expect to need formal dress for balls and galas.

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Health & Safety:

1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.

The most unsafe thing I did was survive Maltese road rage. Do NOT drive slow when they would like to try-out for the Daytona 500 and there is no room to pass you.

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2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?

Medical care is quality; many families chose to give birth in the local hospitals instead of returning home or traveling elsewhere. The diplomatic community has the option to medevac for serious procedures, but I am not aware of anyone having done so while I was there. We had ready access to the private hospital and specialists when needed. Medical costs are low, especially in comparison to the United States. For example, an out-of-pocket MRI will cost you no more than $500.

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3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?

Air quality is fantastic and no one has health issues due to air quality, soil quality, or water quality.

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4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?

Malta is a Mediterranean island paradise. There is no reason for you to not go.

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5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?

No. It is sunny year-round and temperate.

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6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?

It is temperate and sunny year-round. Summers are warmer (mid 80s F) and winters are cooler (about 40 degrees F), and you can't ask for a better place to live. Some years you will be swimming at the beach on Christmas. Winter is the greenest time of year, when all the wildflowers come out. The climate is dry most of the time and good for growing grapes.

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Schools & Children:

1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?

I don't have children, so don't have intimate knowledge of the schools. That said, international schools are available and are generally considered high quality for elementary and middle-school-aged children. There were no children from the embassy community in high school when I was there.

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2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?

There are sports/activities for younger kids for sure. I knew kids that practiced gymnastics, swimming, and other sports. Some parents felt that there wasn't enough outdoor space to allow the kids to play outside in the neighborhoods where many of us lived; I saw that many would make use of local playgrounds and beaches for younger kids to play and run.

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Expat Life:

1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?

Considering Malta's size, the expat community is noticeable. There are expats from many countries, most notably from European, Asian and African countries. The diplomatic community is a good size and I spent time with people from the British, Austrian, and Australian embassies.

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2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?

You have access to pretty much everything in Malta - bars, restaurants, running clubs, gyms, beaches, museums, shopping, hiking...I was never at a loss for things to do with others or places to meet people.

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3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?

Many singles I know dated locally and enjoyed themselves. There are a lot of activities and opportunities for a social life for couples and families as well. I would say that it all depends on your openness to the experience and the attitude you bring to expat living in Malta.

The people that I knew had a hard time adjusting were those who did not live close to other embassy community families or were single and housed in more residential areas, with no nearby nightlife.

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4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?

The Maltese are warm and welcoming; you can certainly make friends if you want to. The Maltese are generally not racist, but the country has a serious issue with migrants and there have been some issues with violence against non-Maltese. There were no issues for the Americans living in Malta when I was there.

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5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?

Oh, yes! While there is still room for improvement, there are active LGBTQI+ organizations and tons of local support for the community. LGBTQI+ people can be open about their relationships and it can be easy to find other people from the community. LGBTQI+ rights are protected at the constitutional level in Malta - same-sex marriage is legal, they've banned conversion therapy, and they've enacted a liberal gender recognition law. There still remain some who are resistant to LGBTQI+ rights, but the Maltese are overwhelmingly welcoming and tolerant.

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6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?

There are some bad attitudes about migrants living in Malta and there remain some strongly held beliefs about traditional gender roles. Abortion remains a contentious topic in this very Catholic country and equity in work, pay, benefits, and household chores has not been achieved for Maltese women.

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7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?

I loved every last minute living in Malta. I love the people, the food, the hiking, the weather...it's a wonderful place to live.

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8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?

Do all the hikes. Learn how to dive. Nothing in this country is hidden, as you can drive across it the long way in about 40 minutes. You can discover all the country in a typical three-year tour if you put your mind to it.

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9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?

Maltese lace is something I'm told one should buy. I'm terrible about shopping, so I did not buy anything while I lived there.

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10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?

I lived a half block from the sea. I walked or ran along the water everyday. When the weather is fine, every sidewalk along the water becomes restaurant seating.

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Words of Wisdom:

1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?

Honestly, nothing. It's a joy to discover.

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2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?

Absolutely, in a heartbeat.

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3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:

Enormous, American vehicle.

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4. But don't forget your:

Sense of fun.

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5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?

There are very few books about Malta; the few I've read I would not recommend.

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6. Do you have any other comments?

If you have the chance to visit or even live in Malta, I urge you to just say "yes." You won't regret it.

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