Cartagena, Colombia Report of what it's like to live there - 03/06/12
Personal Experiences from Cartagena, Colombia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
First.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Seattle, Washington. It is about a 13-hour trip, either through Houston/Panama City or with a long layover in Miami.
3. How long have you lived here?
6 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Housing is all apartments, less than 15 minutes from the Embassy Branch Office even with traffic. They are newer and large and mostly have amazing views of either the Caribbean or the bay.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most things can be found in Cartagena. Fresh fruit and produce is excellent, even if some days you can't find everything you might want. Meat, especially chicken, is also very good here. Due to exchange rate fluxuations we sometimes get COLA here and sometimes not.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We brought liquid laundry detergent on the advice of others and were very glad. It is expensive and of poor quality here. Also, UPSs are a MUST for your electronics. Surge protectors for your small appliances as well.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a few US chains, but most of the restaurants are local. Arabic, Spanish, Colombian, Argentinian, Peruvian, and Italian food is available and delicious. Asian and Mexican are nearly non-existent. Prices are comparable to Seattle in the Old City, less expensive in other neighborhoods. You can also eat from the street cart vendors, arepas and such.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Organic is pretty easy, and gluten-free is not as hard as you might think (lots of corn in this society). Vegetarian might get you looked at funny, but you can get by.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Surprisingly few. We've seen some tiny ants, but the breeze and the geckos keep the insect population under control pretty well.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
We us the DPO. Things take 10-12 days.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Inexpensive and excellent. Full-time help runs under $400 US per month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. Most apartment buildings have small facilites and there are several public gyms around.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
We use a credit card most places with no trouble. There are several ATMs people use regularly and have not had problems. Normal travel precautions should be enough. There is an agreement with a Colombian bank to cash checks when we need pesos.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
DirecTV is here, and while most channels are in Spanish there is often a second audio channel in English. Cost is a bit less than the US. The same for cable; Telmex and Une are the providers.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
The more the better, but because this is such a tourist town you can get around decently at first with just "resort Spanish". Most people are pleased when you try to speak Spanish and will help you learn.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Not the best city for this, but better than I expected. It helps that the city is generally flat and is building up its tourist facilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Taxis are plentiful and cheap. Even out to the airport is only about $9 US. There are no local trains. Buses are not recommended for safety reasons, plus they're crowded, hot, and slow.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
This is a tough one. Generally, resale value in Colombia is pretty high, so some people bring a car for that reason. BUT... don't bring a car you love to Cartagena. The humidity and saltwater will eat it up! We chose not to bring a car and are glad. If you have kids, though, you probably need one.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It is, but the speed depends a lot on which building you live in. The phone company will give DSL to anyone who asks; the cable company likes to do a credit check which can take a while. We pay about US$40 per month for our phone and internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
For reliable, inexpensive service, get a prepaid phone from Comcel, Tigo, or Movistar, and just add minutes as you need them. But you can also get full smartphone plans just like the US, and the price is similar.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really. There are volunteer options, but you need some Spanish for most of them.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
More relaxed than in other parts of Colombia (the Caribbean influence). Women tend to wear tight clothes and high heels. Men sometimes wear ties, but almost never jackets.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
In Cartagena, as long as you stay in the old city or the wealthier neighborhoods, there are few concerns. Because it's a tourist town, there are pickpockets, especially around the holiday time. Colombia in general has areas that are still not safe, and driving between most cities is prohibited for USG employees. Check with the State Department for the current situation. It seems like the Colombian government is making progress all the time.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is decent for general issues. Dental care is good; many Americans and Canadians come here for their orthodontic work. There is no malaria and very little dengue in Cartagena. They tell us not to drink the water, but that "brushing your teeth" is OK. We have not had any problems, even eating from the street vendors.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Generally good. The breeze off the ocean keeps the air pretty clean. Some people have allergy issues, but we haven't had a problem.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
It's hot: 87F every day. The rainy season is Sep.-Dec. Jan. and Feb. are dry and breezy, but then it starts to get humid.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are two approved choices that seems fairly standard. We don't have kids, but others here have not had big complaints about the schools.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are preschools very close to the housing.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Lots of soccer and baseball!
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Government affiliated -- small. Add the retirees and oil company workers -- actually fairly large.
2. Morale among expats:
Medium to high. People generally chose to come here, and they tend to be surprised at how easy life can be here.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
People tend to entertain in their homes, but there are also clubs/bars in the Old City.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
This is a good post for families and couples; the singles I know have said it can be a bit hard to date. That being said, lots have men have left here with Colombian wives!
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I have not seen any in our community, but I understand Colombians can be a bit prejudiced against people with darker skin. There is still some machismo as well; women can expect to be stared at sometimes.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Spending time on the water, touring the Spanish fort, and eating! The food is delicious!
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Visit various islands right outside of the bay, tour the Castillo de San Felipe, visit the Old City, relax on the beach. Also, travel to Bogota is convenient and fairly inexpensive (by airplane only).
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There is functional black pottery and black-and-white woven straw items that are fun. There are also a number of painters and sculptors here; there is an art college.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Colombia is not the same place it was in the '80s, for sure! This is a lovely city with great weather and a lot of history. There is a mix of Caribbean and South American culture here.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, as long as you don't need to buy everything on Amazon!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely. My husband, especially, has been pleasantly surprised by life here.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Jackets and warm clothes, need for everything to be on-time.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunscreen and adventurous spirit.
