Caracas, Venezuela Report of what it's like to live there - 09/13/13
Personal Experiences from Caracas, Venezuela
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
I have lived overseas most of my life: Sasebo, Taipei, Guam, Diego Garcia, Abu Dhabi, Muscat, Baghdad, Panama City, Lima, Santo Domingo, Quito, and San Juan.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Puerto Rico, 90 minutes
3. How long have you lived here?
One year.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All apartments are near the Embassy. Quality varies -- most have adequate space but may be past their repairable point. I have a nice apartment, in good shape, but "too secure" with thick iron bars on all windows. It takes me ten minutes to drive or 20 minutes to walk to work.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Although imported products are expensive, local stuff (chicken, meat, fruits and veggies) is cheap. The problem is that the supermarkets run out of everything for months at a time including diet cola, butter, milk, and of course -- toilet paper. There is always a large supply of liquor though for Venezuelans to drink away their troubles during the decades-long economic crisis.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Actually I was told what to bring beforehand: paper products, white tuna, diet cola, shoes, books.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
All the U.S. fast food places are here, but there are also dozens of great restaurants throughout Caracas -- everything from Sushi bars to formal European places (you know the ones: big plates with a little bit of food in the middle with a strip of two of sauce). With the current parallel exchange rate, you can eat very economically anywhere in the country.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
A few mosquitoes around sunset.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO, DHL, and other express mail services.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Low cost; though work ethic varies among locals; many expats hire domestics from Peru, Colombia, or Guyana.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, the Valle Arriba Club is most popular, though expensive, and near the Embassy.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Don't ever use a credit card in this country unless that is all you have. The ATM at the Embassy is safe, but I wouldn't use any other machines.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
No newspapers in English (not even the international edition of the Miami Herald), but many expats have DirecTV Puerto Rico that has a dozen English-language stations. DirecTV PR runs about US$50 per month, but you'll need to get decoder boxes and a small dish.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot -- having lived in a half-dozen Spanish speaking countries, including South Florida, I have never needed Spanish as much as in Venezuela. We constantly meet educated professionals and those in the tourist industry who don't know a word of English -- it's very odd compared to Peru and Ecuador.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Sidewalks, ramps, and wide aisles in supermarkets are missing but handicap-accessible parking spots places exist and public TV broadcast often have sign-language interpreters on screen. A few elevators have braille on the buttons.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Riding Metro and buses is not allowed for Embassy staff. Riding in some taxis is authorized in Caracas.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
SUV if you will travel out of the city a lot; or a tiny car if you want to be able to park anywhere and get through narrow city streets. We sold our SUV in the U.S. and bought a small car -- glad I did.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Just one company, InterCable, has 10 Mbps high-speed internet, and they are just starting to expand into Valle Arriba. Only about five percent of the apartment buildings have it. The other providers, CANTV and SuperCable are slow (1-3Mbps), but the three companies all are very cheap.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you aren't issued one by the Embassy, it is best to buy one here or just the chip, e.g., for your iPhone, from Movistar.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No, just the regular shots and health certificate.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
It appears to be very good.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, in the Embassy and at the American school.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Some dress as they would in Manhattan and they meet with local businesses, others come to work in business casual or high-heels and low-cut dresses. It varies widely depending on what kind of work each employee does.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes, this is the most dangerous post experienced (including Baghdad). We have thick iron bars on the windows, use a dozen keys to enter our homes, can't ride the metro, buses, etc. We must have more guards than officers at the Embassy.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is okay, and we have a RMO at post. Though some reports describe how the medical infrastructure is also falling apart, doctors leaving the country (with Cubans replacing them), emergency rooms that lack supplies, and patients placed in the hospital halls or waiting hours to be seen. With the world's highest murder rate, for those that don't die at the scene, Caracas certainly needs better medical care.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Very good in Caracas.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Excellent -- never too hot or cold: 65F at night and 80F during the day. Rainy season in Caracas is April - October, but it is not intense, with no hurricanes.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
ECA appears to be a good school.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Many dual-nationals, but more and more expats and dual nationals are leaving because of the crime and economic crises. The infrastructure is also falling apart with very little maintenance carried out on a preventive basis.
2. Morale among expats:
Terrible.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Lots of places to go at night -- some are off-limits though. Americans and other expats get together frequently to entertain at home and in apartment common areas. The social life is active here.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It appears to be good for all categories, although the real need for intense security could cause an incident at any time.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It appears to be a good city for gay and lesbians expats, much more so that in all my previous posts.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I have not observed any other than the normal Latin macho male attitude toward women in some cases.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Filling up at the gas station for 25 cents.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Eat dinner in Las Mercedes, go to the islands and beaches, Angel Falls, climb the nearby mountains, golf, baseball.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
All kinds of handicrafts and items from the Amazon area, as well as the typical South American items like woodwork, paintings, and musical instruments.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Best climate in the world, gas is currently less than two cents per gallon, and the current parallel exchange rate is six times the official rate -- making many products very cheap. It is a beautiful country with many natural resources and variety: beautiful beaches, snow-capped mountains, tropical jungle, and even ranches with cattle and cowboys.
11. Can you save money?
Yes, currently, but that can change at any moment when the government decides to devalue the currency again. For example, a kilo of chicken might be US$5.00 at the official exchange rate, but less than US$1.00 at the parallel exchange rate -- the one that most people use.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
No way. Perhaps 20 years ago or 20 years from now, but this has by far been the most difficult place that I have lived (30 years overseas).
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
You'll need everything here -- lots to do, a lot of places to see, and you'll leave frequently for breaks.
3. But don't forget your:
Flip flops, bathing suits, sports equipment, empty suitcases (bring stuff like bagels back from breaks), and bags for money. The largest bill now is 100 Bolivars, worth about US$2.50 on the parallel exchange rate. You may need to take a bag of them to the supermarket (and sometimes the banks only have 50 Bolivar notes).
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Is this the end of the world (not out yet)?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
How to really screw up a country with many natural resources that was once the best on the continent . . .
6. Do you have any other comments?
Someday again, many hope that Caracas will return to its heydays of 20-50 years ago, but once it starts, it will take a long time -- perhaps five years to fix. It has happened in Panama and Bogota recently, so there is hope. Right now, perhaps they should give up and move the capital city like was done in Nigeria, Belize, Pakistan, and Brazil . . .
