Seoul, South Korea Report of what it's like to live there - 01/16/26
Personal Experiences from Seoul, South Korea
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, I was a third culture kid (TCK) as a kid and lived in Hanoi (Vietnam), Copenhagen (Denmark), and Canberra (Australia). This was my first time living overseas without diplomatic privileges and without family at post.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC area/NOVA. It took a good 16 hours to get there from DC, with one stop. I always took the United flight to San Francisco, then to Seoul, and never had any issues. There may be turbulence during typhoon season.
3. What years did you live here?
I got there in late 2019 and left around early 2023, so spent all of COVID times. It was very efficient there! All vaccine records were kept on a national app, and you had to scan into buildings with your vaccine records.
4. How long have you lived here?
Three-ish years (2019-2023).
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
I was teaching English at private afterschool academies known as Hagwons. I was in Incheon at first, then Ilsan for the rest of my time. Towards the end of my trip, I became engaged to a US naval officer and got to see Yongsan, live in housing for military off-base, visit the commissary, etc. Yongsan looked very run down and they were closing the commissary as I left.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I had a studio apartment in Incheon, and the same when I moved to Ilsan. Most Koreans I met live in apartments, as standalone houses are rarer in Seoul. Also, many Koreans live with their entire family/parents all the way until marriage.
When one teaches English, housing like that is usually provided. You will have a washer/dryer combined machine in most cases, but FYI, NO dishwasher. Expect to get really used to handwashing. In Incheon, I was much closer to Seoul, but Ilsan was further out, like an urban-style suburbs. It took me 45 min to an hour to commute by subway to Seoul from Ilsan. Longer on the bus. Try to avoid traveling into Seoul or out of Seoul during morning and evening rush hours, otherwise you will be crammed into the subway and people PUSH.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries are easy to access, but without a car you will be carrying them. It may be worth investing in a little cart with wheels like the old ladies have. Stores provide grocery bags that double as the province/state mandated garbage bags.
Note that you will likely be required to keep food waste in separate containers, with fines for improper disposal. All living places have a composting area for organic food waste. Household cleaning supplies, food packaging, etc. will be in Korean text and different from what you're used to at home, but just keep Google translate or something on your phone. Costco is located in Seoul, as well as IKEA. Lotte and other Korean grocery stores, as well as very well stocked conveniences stores, are plenty. A highlight of life in Korea is the convenience stores, honestly. I had one in my building and during COVID it was a lifesaver not having to go outside.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I was able to find almost everything I needed to live in Korea locally. Can't think of anything.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
SO many. Korea has an insane delivery app system where you can get ANYTHING in minutes. No joke, I once ordered a bowl of cereal and fruit (milk came separate in a container). It will amaze you. Getting the apps set up may require some screenshots with Google translate, looking online, or friendly Korean co-worker to help set up your address, but after that, you should be set.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Not in housing but the summer cicadas are very, very loud and you will hear them.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Coming from diplomatic life and being a private expat- shipping stuff is a lot more expensive. However, even with COVID I was able to get care packages from family (and send things occasionally), but it was not cheap.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I had a few house cleanings done by private businesses I found on Facebook and I think it was like $90-150 dollars depending on the depth of cleaning and the size of apartment. Not sure what other people do. Sometimes moving in and out of apartments rented on the local economy you are expected to hire cleaning or clean it yourself.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
Yes, yes, yes. Taking walks around Lake Ilsan was a weekly activity and I loved it. All around Seoul are all kinds of places to take walks, there are parks, the Han River has cycling, and everything is so, so safe.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms around. I took a few all Korean language yoga courses, a dance class. There are trendy fitness classes that pop up every now and again at different places. Sometimes the environment can be intense though.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes. Koreans use electronic payments like ApplePay or Kakao Pay. ATMs are there but I rarely used cash (personal preference). Be aware that cash is not accepted on buses anymore, so having a subway/bus card (can use it for both) is necessary for using public transport. They are easily found at stations and in all convenience stores. You can even get cute ones with characters!
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
So many. I'm not religious but Korea has a massive Christian population of all denominations, but I think mainly Protestant variations. Be wary of people handing out flyers, as there are also cults abound looking for new members aggressively.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Highly recommend taking the time to learn Hangul, the Korean alphabet. Learning to read Korean is easy; speaking and understanding is harder. Reading will allow you to navigate subway, buses, stores, everything and make life so much easier. You can learn it in a few hours, like, it is really not that hard.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
There are bumpy yellow pavement markers so that blind people can "feel" them on the streets. Most places built in recent years have elevators, especially since Koreans live in apartment buildings. Quality of elevators are not always great and can be cramped for a wheelchair. There would certainly be challengers for foreigners with physical disabilities.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes! Commuting on public transport is safe, easy, cheap. Taxis can be ordered with apps like Kakao taxi but will require a Korean phone number and sometimes bank account, like almost everything in Korea. The metro is massive and spreads across Seoul.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
I would not bring a large car. There are electric stations and Teslas these days, but not sure how many charging stations exist. Parking can be hard to find on streets, often using underground garages. I was fine not using a car at all, but my US navy boyfriend bought a cheap tiny car from someone leaving and that seemed to suffice. Korea has their own car brands so I assume parts are somewhat readily available.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, you can get a router set up with the cell phone companies. It isn't expensive, and internet is fast in Korea. Many cafes and places have free wifi.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring your phone, get a SIM card from a phone provider. I used a local provider for this. You can buy phones here if you need. Despite being the land of Samsung, tons of people have iPhones, too.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Pets are becoming huge in Korea, especially dogs. Mostly smaller dogs that can adapt to apartment living and elevators. Many people keep fake grass/pee pads for their animals that live in apartments, so you may see that if you visit people. Incheon had a lot less green space, but Ilsan was full of people walking small dogs around the lake and such. Pet stores I saw less of, but most grocery stores and convenience stores have pet food. You WILL see dogs in strollers. Sometimes in little sweaters.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
A ton of expats teach English here. Public school teacher jobs are available through a govt program, and private schools are almost always afterschool academies called Hagwons. It is typical to get 10 paid days off, holidays, around $2000/month plus free studio apartment in a classic contract, but ALWAYS read your contract carefully before signing. I don't know what EFM jobs are available as I was on the local economy. There are other part time teaching jobs/tutoring available, and also Hagwons that cater specifically to adult learners before and after work in a split shift style that works for some employees.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Not sure, but there are NGOs and churches abound.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
For women/female presenting: never show your bare arms or any "cleavage." To Koreans, it is the equivalent of wearing a miniskirt to work. They are fine with more leg showing but bare arms, low cut shirts are considered not professional. I wish I had known that before, as my boss commented on things I wore a few times, which was frustrating.
Koreans often dress in trendy sports athleisure brands or quite formal with darker colors, black, white, beige, tan, grey, etc. Winter brings the classic big puffy black winter jacket, some of which are quite long. For anyone sizes Large and above, H&M is the ONLY option for larger clothes and it is limited to XL, rarely XXL. There is Uniqlo but the fit is very hit or miss.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Honestly, crime rates are low there, but dating presents a challenge for women/gender and sexual minorities like it does in the US/other countries. Dating apps will have many looking for foreigners, so be wary. Living alone without your parents is a huge privilege and if you invite someone over and you "live alone" they may have certain expectations. Gender divisions are very political/prevalent for young people nowadays. There is also misogyny from older generations, too, that is only slowly dying out.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Hospitals here are usually really, really nice. We had to go to the ER for a gallstone removal and they were able to take him asap and he was well taken care of. Most doctors speak at least some English, because most medical terms are in English so they have to study them. I even had a male Korean OBYGN once and it was fine. Some doctors even speak perfect English or have studied abroad.
Korea has national health insurance so if you are working on the local economy as a teacher, get any medical things done for yourself while here as it is super affordable. I started to see a psychiatrist at my local hospital and was able to get antidepressants regularly for less than 10$. Koreans don't often take sick days and you may see a lot of people with IV drips at hospitals that turn right back around and go back to work after. Note that dentists may not be covered by insurance and may try to get you to sign up for additional "cavities" that don't exist or treatments you "need." If that's the case, don't go back and get a second opinion.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality. If you have asthma, be prepared for a few bad days/weeks a year. Even before COVID, mask wearing was prevalent in Korea as a courtesy if you have a cold (good luck every getting a sick day from work) or as a basic necessity for "bad air" days. There are apps to check the quality each day so you can determine if you need one. The masks do help with the winter! There are certain seasons where the air is worse, including winter due to coal burning; Koreans blame China for this problem.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
I think allergies like peanuts are much rarer in Korea and only have come up in recent years. I feel bad for anyone who can't eat pork living in Korea, or shellfish/fish because it is in everyone, even the kimchi. Kimchi may not be vegan and can contain tiny shrimps in paste as part of the seasoning.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
Yes. I mean, I was there during COVID so mental health became a much bigger issues. Like I said, it was fairly easy to ask to see a psychiatrist, on the medication side of things, but services like talk therapy or finding sympathy from people is much more rare. I used an online therapist during that time and paid out of pocket and that wasn't cheap or covered by insurance. I predict therapy will eventually become a big industry in Korea someday...
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Koreans will always brag about having "four seasons," as if they are the only ones in the world haha. Yes, they do, and the flowers in spring are incredible, cherry blossom season is brief but enjoy it. Snow will also happen in the winter and the wind is biting in the winter! Handheld heat packs are popular, either rechargeable or disposable. The summer can be very humid and most people carry around little fans (electronic). Get a nice winter coat in Korea and you should be fine. The heated floors in most apartments are so lovely... I miss them.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are some! I know some teachers got jobs there, but I have limited experience. Heard good things though.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Depends where you live. In richer areas, sometimes you can get an acknowledgement of autism or ADHD, but cultural knowledge on this is still full of prejudice/is limited. I saw some sad cases in my time as a teacher of kids being ostracized, but also experienced parents who had unrealistic expectations of their kids. I predict things will get better with time, but expect that accommodations are rare.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
For American kids living in Seoul, I'm not sure. Many expat teachers make extra money/better pay by working at day time "English Kindergartens." Don't be fooled, these are daycares with workbooks. The expectation is that having a Westerner teacher with a western accent will make your child have a perfect accent in English, despite how rare that is. The material is sometimes too advanced and parents put a lot of pressure on their child's academic performance.
As for afterschool care, Hagwons/afterschool academies are widespread and teach everything from computer science to English to basketball. Kids in Korea sometimes stay out until as a late as 9 or 10pm at these cram schools. It can be intense, and some kids hate it. However, parents often work late hours, and these kind of places are necessary to stay ahead in the highly competitive education system.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, see above. Schools also have sports, but I didn't work at a regular, day time hours school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. Expats from all over the world gather in Itaewon, a part of Seoul known for foreigners and more diverse food options.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
My advice is to find a Language Cafe or language partner program where you can interact with people learning who want to learn English. I went to one called CulCom that has a few branches. There are events, game nights, etc. and you will be expected to hold basic English conversations but in exchange, you can practice Korean or make friends.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Anyone! I think Seoul is a very dynamic city so you can find what you need.
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
I would say it isn't easy, but it is worth it. Korean friendships can be very meaningful, especially if you are the same age, where they may feel so sort of kinship (age is a big deal there) or if they take you under their wing as a big brother/sister/auntie. Language exchange was the way I made my closer friends, but be aware that some people may only using you at a superficial level for your English.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
In some ways. It is better than other parts of Korea, and you shouldn't face physical harm, but it is very difficult being LGBT there. Some Korean friends I had legit told me that LGBT people only exist in other countries, and many had "never" met an LGBT person before. There are parts of Itaewon and even Hongdae that have LGBT bars, but expect them to be very male-dominated. The drag scene in Korea is very small but incredible/quite underground.
There are a few NGOs, but every year, organizing Pride is a challenge as they get only pushback from government. Homophobic protestors at pride are aggressive and hold very graphic signs. That being said, there is something very moving about being at Pride there. Be aware that protesting as a foreigner is likely illegal so maybe wear a mask if you're worried about your identity. I was never "out" to my coworkers and everyone is assumed straight until proven otherwise. Living in Korea as a queer person became more difficult over time, being in the closet always.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
As I said, sadly, yes. LGBT people for one, and there are tensions between genders right now. All young men have to serve in the military. As a monoethnic culture, Koreans may not be experienced with black culture and this can lead to frustrations/misunderstanding. There is prejudice towards darker skinned Asians of other countries (Philippines) or suspicions of Chinese people, and due to their previous colonization by Japan, there is a lot of resentment there, too. Muslim people may struggle with the amount of pork used in cooking, and there are cases of Islamophobia.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Gyeongbokgung Palace is this massive old royal palace in the middle of the city, I recommend going, renting a Hanbok/Korean traditional dress (there are male and female versions), and taking photos. Strolling along the Han River, having a picnic together by the river in the Spring, the cherry blossom season.
I also traveled to Busan for the beaches and all over the country since I couldn't leave due to COVID. Korea has so many amazing hikes and mountains and places to visit. There are literally brand new shopping malls and department stores everywhere and it can be fun to walk around in them. Hanok Villages are Korean traditional buildings/culture villages that you can find across the country that are so picturesque and sometimes have fun things to do.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Insadong! Lots of fun traditional crafts, touristy sights, just so fun. Traditional tea houses and delicious food. The best times I had in Korea were in the restaurants experiencing their food through my tummy... it is an important part of the experience. Try everything. Cafes in Korea are everywhere, and there are all kinds: cat cafes with live cats, sheep cafes with live sheep (it exists), cafes that are just very cozy, cafes with Watercolor painting supplies where you can go and paint.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, go to Insadong. Hongdae for fun trendy shopping.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It is so safe, and so fun. I loved my time in Seoul. it is so easy to get places and every day felt like a fun adventure.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Oh you will need adapters if you have a laptop, since the outlets are different.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
100%.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
tank tops/spaghetti strap shirts. Seriously.
4. But don't forget your:
no idea, I could find most things there.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Train to Busan, if you like Zombie Movies. Parasite movie or anything by that director. Squid Games. These have all been a part of Korean's pop culture explosion and are amazingly well done and can give you some insights into culture or attitudes.
6. Do you have any other comments?
Seoul is far from perfect, but truly living there was an experience I will never forget. The good outweighs the bad, and it really only becomes a drag the longer you stay when you start to miss home. Tech-savy, crowded, rich cultural heritage, highly efficient, full of delicious food: this is how I would describe Seoul.
