Bucharest, Romania Report of what it's like to live there - 03/25/19
Personal Experiences from Bucharest, Romania
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've lived in Chennai, India, with the State Dept. and in the U.K. independently.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home is New York or D.C. There are no direct flights from Romania to the U.S., although there are a few now from Canada. Many airlines fly to Bucharest (OTP), so it's just a matter of which airline and connection point you prefer: London, Frankfurt, Munich, Paris, Amsterdam, Rome, etc. If you're flying in with pets, opt for Lufthansa with an easy connection in Frankfurt or Munich. Including an average layover, you're looking at 10-hour journey to Eastern U.S. Overall, it's an easy journey with many options for flight times, airlines, layover points.
3. How long have you lived here?
I've been here one year on a two-year tour.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
State Department (EFM).
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
State Department housing is nice. We have a spacious 3-bed, 3-bath apartment at the top of Kiseleff Park. The living room and dining room are open concept, and the kitchen has a bar island that connects it to the open plan. The kitchen is on the smaller side, but compared to New York apartments is more than ample, and it was remodeled around 2017 or so, with new appliances and a contemporary side-by-side sink. The refrigerator and oven are American-sized, and we have a huge pantry. There's a balcony off the kitchen with a clunky outdoor dining set.
State Dept. people can choose to live in apartments in Sector 1, which is the nicest area of Bucharest and in the northern part of the city, or in the suburbs closer to the embassy. There's only one apartment building that's very large, in an area affectionately known as "by the Chinese embassy." It's right off the east side of Herastrau Park, and those apartments seem to be the newest. I love my location, however, and wouldn't trade it.
Commute times vary. With no traffic, you can get from Sector 1 to the embassy in about 8-12 minutes in a car, or about 30 minutes by bus. With normal traffic, it'll take 30 minutes by car. On the worst day, it could take close to an hour in stop-and-go traffic. There's a bus that goes right to the embassy from Charles de Gaulle circle. There is an underground subway, but it only serves the main city center.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Phenomenal. It takes a little while to find the stores that carry the brands you like, but it's extraordinarily easy and prices are low. You can order groceries online and have them delivered. The farmers' market have incredible produce and are open year-round. The big chain grocery stores are Mega Image, Carrefour, and Lidl. You can buy everything there: food, imported produce, cleaning supplies, dog food, light bulbs. The nicer ones have a "bio" section of organic and other specialty items, like gluten-free foods. Then there are some smaller bio stores that often carry organic German and Greek products, with some Romanian-made products getting into the market now, too. Near Baneasa mall there are two giant stores that are similar to Costco called Metro and Selgros.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We brought a variety of hot sauces and Asian sauces. We also brought specialty beers, although those are getting easier to find (look up Beer Institute and The Beer Store). Even with Asian sauces, there is a small chain of stores called J&K Store, which stands for Japan and Korea, and they have a good amount of east Asian items.
It's really easy to find most things in Bucharest. I haven't found Nappa cabbage or daikon to make kimchi, but J&K Store sells kimchi for a fair price.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
It's plentiful. Eating out is inexpensive, and there's great variety. Pizza, sushi, burgers, Thai noodles... there are one or two places that make Mexican food that aren't incredible but they satisfy the craving for sure. Vegetarians and vegans have options if you do a little legwork. The coffee scene here blew my mind. If you're into coffee to the extent that you care about brewing methods and grind size, you're going to be very pleased with Bucharest.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nope. There are some mosquitoes around the park areas in the summer, but nothing else, not even rats.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has pouch and DPO. I've used local DHL to send an urgent piece of two-day mail and it was excellent. I have not used local Romanian post.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is available, depending on what you need. From what I hear, many people hire someone to clean only one or two days per week. Nannies are more likely to be full-time. There's no need to hire a driver here. I tried a housekeeper one day per week, and she charged 25RON per hour. It cost about $40-$50US each time she came.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are many gyms and yoga studios. I don't know about CrossFit or climbing. One of the nicest gyms (World Class Fitness) costs about 1,000 euros for the year, which comes with all classes included, from yoga to Spinning. Many of their clubs have pools, too. The embassy has a small gym and a large pool that's better for playing than swimming laps because it's extremely shallow.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes, yes, yes. I use contactless payment with fingerprint ID on my phone rather than an old fashioned credit card. You can use it even for small purchases. The ATMs are safe.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
In Bucharest, you can easily get by with English. Many people in the city speak English fluently, including children. That's less the case outside of Bucharest. I learned some Romanian, but I rarely use it. It's nice to have it when I need it, however. The embassy offers classes to employees and family members.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I would say it's about as bad/good as any major city in the U.S. There are accessible parking spaces in large parking lots. There are sidewalks, although sometimes they're blocked by cars. The subway stations have elevators. Many shops don't have wheelchair ramps.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes. There are buses, trams, a subway system, taxis, Uber, Taxify, BlackCab. Car service is probably 1/4 the price of major U.S. cities. The bus is something like $0.30 per ride and less if you get a monthly pass. The subway costs around $0.50 per ride and is quick and comes often. They're all safe. I would say my least preferred method is local taxi because it's the only one where getting ripped off is even possible.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Everyone will tell you to bring a four-wheel or all-wheel drive vehicle with clearance. That's true if you plan on doing a lot of driving around the country and in the winter. There is a rule about having tires rated for mud and snow, but that's easy enough to satisfy in practically any car. In the city, you see just as many Fiats and Minis as mini SUVs. A small car will be easier to drive and park. Parking a larger car is always a squeeze. I recommend checking whether your car manufacturer has a dealership in Bucharest so that you can get parts and service. Even then, you may end up ordering some parts from the U.S., but at least you'll be able to get basic service. Car jacking is unheard of here. Traffic accidents happen often.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Romania's internet is among the fastest in Europe, and it's cheap. It took a few days to get an appointment and install. Easy. We pay our bill online using a U.S. credit card with no problem. I think we pay around $25US per month for unlimited internet.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Bring an unlocked phone. Buy a SIM card. Top it up monthly or so for about 5-7 euros per month. Turn on roaming when you go back to the U.S. because it's cheaper than using an American SIM card.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Bringing animals into the EU is easy, and Bucharest is extremely dog-friendly. The city used to have a serious problem with feral dogs, but it's gotten much better since the mid 2000s after a fatal incident with a foreigner. In the rest of the country, stray dogs are everywhere. As a result, heart worm seems to flourish. The heart worm pills are available without prescription and at a low cost. Vets are everywhere and inexpensive. If you're thinking about getting a dog, Bucharest is the place. There are many animals in need here. People walk their dogs off leash all the time, so if you have dogs that don't respond well to others, avoid the parks. Most parks have dog enclosures, too.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Working remotely is definitely an option, and it's so easy with the excellent internet. There are jobs at the embassy as well as the American school. I know one person who is employed at a local private school, and she teaches in English.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
I'm unsure about volunteer opportunities, as it's not something I hear discussed often.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Embassy people tend to wear business attire. Bucharest is casual and fashionable. You can wear whatever you want. I've never been to a restaurant in Bucharest that had a dress code. I would not feel uncomfortable going out to dinner in jeans and sneakers, but a lot of locals dress fashionably at night.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There is nothing in particular to be concerned about, safety-wise, in Bucharest that you wouldn't be mindful of in any other city in the world. Wear your seatbelt. Wear a bike helmet. Use situational awareness.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care seems to be okay, but you'll be medevac'ed for anything that requires an incision. Dental care is plentiful and cheap, including cosmetic dentistry.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
It's completely fine.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
The EU has good laws about allergen information on foods, and Romania follows them. If you or family members are allergic to nuts, I'd definitely take the time to learn the words for each specific nut because they are not cognates. I'm not sure about seasonal allergies.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
No
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Romania has four seasons, and the climate is similar to mid-Atlantic U.S. Spring comes early and is beautiful. Summers are hot. Autumn is gorgeous and long. Winter goes from late November or early December until early March. I've heard people over-exaggerate about the winters, which are seriously tough in the mountains but fine in Bucharest. Yes, there's snow. Yes, there's ice. There will be a storm here and there, but you won't have to worry about getting frostbite from 5 minutes of exposure or anything like that. Plowing is inconsistent, but it happens. Same with clearing sidewalks on major roads.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There's an American school.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
The embassy is medium sized. I think there are something like 80 direct hires. If you're interested in expat life, there's plenty to do, such as women's organizations and lunches organized through different embassy groups. Morale seems high. Bucharest is a really easy city. If you're outgoing, you can make local friends. And there's plenty to do if you're more introverted and like to do solo activities.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
There's so much. Film festivals in the spring. Outdoor food festivals in the summer. Beer gardens. Music. Arts. Dancing. Gyms. Marathons and fun runs. Museums. Whatever you want to do, search for it online or on Facebook (some community organizing still happens on FB), and you'll find something.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, it's good for everyone.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Compared to other parts of the world, yes. That said, Romania still has some anti-LGBTQ sentiment. You will find a positive community in Bucharest, but it definitely faces some challenges. Look up in-depth articles about the LGBT vote in 2018 for more information about what's happening in the country politically and socially. It's complicated.
5. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Yes, you can make local friends.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Compared to other parts of the world, prejudice here isn't bad. Compared to what it should be, there's room for improvement for sure. Romania, including Bucharest, is very white. If you are non-white, you will stand out. The country is also religious, by and large. I've seen some women wearing the hijab without issue, but it's not something you see every day. There are some deep-rooted issues related to sexism and gender stereotypes, but I'd say it feels less in-your-face than, say, in Ukraine.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I love Bucharest. The coffee scene here is incredible. I still have a lot more to see, but so far I've enjoyed the muddy volcanoes, which is about 2.5-hour drive from Bucharest. It's a great educational spot for kids. The salt mines are bizarre. A long weekend in wine country in the summer with some bicycling. Brasov is great. Sinaia and Busteni for hiking. I'm looking forward to seeing the coast and the Danube next. Bucharest is an easy jumping off point for the rest of Europe, too.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Everyone will tell you to go to Therme, the giant spa/waterpark. It's a hoot, and it's not expensive. I fell in love with bakeries in Bucharest, which are everywhere. Gradina Eden beer garden in the summer is lovely. Palatul Primaverii is worth touring.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Not especially. In Transylvania, you can buy sheep skins everywhere, as well as these giant ghoulish masks that are made with sheep skin and goat horns. If you live in Romania, you must own at least a few painted eggs. The traditional Romanian blouse, called "ie," are beautiful and often stylish, although they aren't dirt cheap.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
European living, Mexico prices
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
The coffee is so so good. People warned me that bicycling in the city would be dangerous. It's not. Maybe it is compared to The Netherlands or Copenhagen, but it's fine by my standards. The boulevards have bike lanes on the sidewalks or a protected bike lane. The parks are bicycle-friendly. You may not be able to do long rides easily, but getting from here to there on a bike is no problem. Also, people complain about traffic everywhere. The traffic here is fine.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
100 percent
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
...wifi hot spot?
4. But don't forget your:
...snow boots for winter and sandals for summer.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
If you're practicing Romanian language, try Micrea Bravo on YouTube. He makes funny sketches that are a few minutes long.
