Milan, Italy Report of what it's like to live there - 06/22/18
Personal Experiences from Milan, Italy
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
One year.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Our housing is centrally located, large and very nice, though not super modern. We have a 3 bedroom, 2.5 bathroom flat for our family of 3. Most of the consulate families live within walking distance to work, some live a bit further out. I think the longest commutes are 20-30 minutes.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Most of the foods we'd want are available here. I have my groceries delivered once a week for €7-9, including water, beer, wine, etc., which is very convenient. US Mission personnel have access to the Army base commissary at Vicenza about 2.5 hours away. There they have a full American grocery store, thrift store, and exchange with electronics and all are at US prices. We go there to stock up once every few months.
The cost for products locally is comparable to DC, and less for certain things (wine, good cheese, and coffee). There are many gluten-free and organic products available, and I find their mark-up isn't as high as in the US. I often shop in Chinatown and at the Indian markets for things like rice, coconut milk, spices, etc, as their availability and prices are better. Amazon.it, Casanova, and Euronics are good for small appliances.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
None really, you can find most anything you need here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Aperitivo is excellent here, and there are of course countless options for Italian food. There are some great Chinese, Indian, Ethiopian, Japanese restaurants; I have yet to find a Tex Mex place I like. Delivery companies abound (Uber Eats, Foodora, Deliveroo, and Glovo).
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
If you're close to one of the parks, as we are, the mosquitoes can be thick in the summer. Our place doesn't have screens and there's no way to install them, so I keep the windows closed. Aside from that Milan is pretty bug-free, which is great.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Most comes through DPO, including Amazon.com orders. The local post works well in my experience.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Consulate staff tend to hire house cleaners and/or nanny services, but you have to contribute to social security, vacation time, severance, and holidays. Altogether, expect to pay €12-15 an hour for this kind of help.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are many gyms, but membership is expensive. There's a small workout room at the consulate.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes to all. It's helpful to have some cash for the markets.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It's helpful to know some basic Italian, especially if you're doing the grocery shopping. There are many informal language exchange groups here, and some language schools. I use Google Translate daily.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Milan's public transport might pose some challenges. The older trams have stairs, and many metro stops don't have elevators. Elevators in buildings tend to be really small, and oftentimes there are stairs at the entrance. Compared with much of the world, though, and with careful planning, I think Milan could be manageable.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, very safe and affordable. You can get just about anywhere in the city without too much walking. Occasionally there are strikes, however.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I wish we'd left our car at home, it just sits in the (tiny) garage most of the time. Trains and flights will get you most everywhere, and if you want to drive there are car sharing services and rental companies. If you do bring a car, the smaller the better.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, and it's very fast, but the installation took us about 6 weeks since we arrived at the end of July (everyone goes on holiday in August). I think installation has been faster for most.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Vodafone is very affordable and works well all across Europe.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
The consulate has a handful of EFM jobs available, though it's a small mission.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The Milanese dress well, even when they go out to walk their dogs or pick up groceries. At work it's business casual, and suits for important meetings.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
No more than any other major city. I don't walk alone at night, and I keep a close eye on my belongings. The Centrale neighborhood can be a little shady but most areas of Milan seem safe to me.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is great, though specialists are expensive. Emergency services (ambulance, ER) are free of charge.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
There are some bad days here when the smog just settles in over the city. I was expecting it to be worse than it is. I notice the air quality maybe once or twice a month, or if it hasn't rained in a while.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot, somewhat humid summers and mild grey winters. Very little snow. The spring and fall are lovely here.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There's a good, diverse expat community here and they seem happy. Facebook has several groups for expats in Milan, including a parenting group.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Milan International Parents group, Girls in Milan (both on Facebook), and the Benvenuto Club for Women. There are few Americans at post and people tend to be really busy with travel and visitors (everyone will want to come see you), so it takes a bit more effort to be social here.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes to all, there's always something going on. If you have young children, taking them to dinner at restaurants can be challenging. Places don't open until 7pm and are generally cramped, so it can be hard to take a stroller in. And we've found approximately 2 changing tables in the city. Having said that, Italians love children and are extremely helpful and friendly.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
A boat trip on Lake Como, seeing guests' eyes light up when they first approach the Duomo, the flowering trees in springtime, and eating gelato way too often. And every time I come "home," I'm delighted to be back in the country of €1 café around every corner.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
There are SO many places to go on the weekends. Como, Lugano, Bergamo, Genova, Turin, Aosta, Garda, Florence, Venice, Parma, and Bologna, the list goes on and on. That's saying nothing of the short, affordable flights around western Europe. Varenna, on Lake Como, is one of our favorite places so far. It's charming, an easy day trip, and not as overrun with tourists as a lot of the other towns.
In Milan, we enjoy the antiques market (last Sunday of the month), trying out new aperitivos, going to Chinatown, and spending time in the parks.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, though clothes and shoes can be VERY expensive here. I've yet to find many good compromises between low-quality stores like H&M and Bershka, and the €180 blouses you see in every shop window.
7. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
As noted above, the proximity of Milan to northern Italy and the ease of travel to the rest of Europe is just fantastic.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Nothing really, it's been a great adventure.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Car.
4. But don't forget your:
As others have said, patience. Italy can be a very bureaucratic, confounding place at times.
