Bucharest, Romania Report of what it's like to live there - 07/15/10
Personal Experiences from Bucharest, Romania
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
6th overseas tour, 5th with government.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Home base is U.S. The trip takes approximately 18 hours, with connections in Munich, Frankfurt or Amsterdam, and direct flights to major U.S. cities from there.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two and one-half years.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
My spouse is stationed at the US Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Many expats live in single-family or town-homes Baneasa, a dreary, treeless suburban area far from the city with redeeming features. Others live in more centrally-located apartments. The newer apartments are nicer but can be small and expensive. The older, communist-bloc apartments should be avoided.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries can be expensive. It really depends on whether you're buying imported items or not. The fruit and vegetables can be mediocre. The best stores are the big box stores (e.g., Carrefour, Metro, etc.) located on the highway out near the airport.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Some things are hard to get here, like peanut butter.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Plenty of fast food is available. Plus other restaurants with a wide range of prices and food quality.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Nothing uncommon.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available. There are two salary scales, one for locals and the other for expats. This is widely known. Shortly upon arrival we hired a nanny who left after a week without giving us advance notice for a family that offered to pay her more - not pleasant. But the person we hired after that has been excellent and has been with us for more than 2 years.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, especially in the major hotels. The gyms are nice but on the expensive side.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Easily available. We have heard of problems with credit card theft, but we have never had a problem with this issue.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
There is a daily English-language newspaper, but it's not very good.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You can get by with English, but Romanian helps quite a bit.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Terrible for someone with physical disabilities. Many buildings lack elevators. Sidewalk curbs and public transport are not wheelchair accessible. Most of the population, especially drivers, are impatient with those with disabilities. Best to avoid this place.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, very affordable. Taxi drivers can be dishonest, so be sure the meter is turned on and is working properly. Never take an unmarked cab.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
I recommend a high-clearance vehicle with good acceleration. Non-highway roads are full of potholes. Local drivers can be dangerously aggressive, and also maddeningly slow -- therefore it's good to have a car that you can use to pass (or swerve out of the way) when necessary.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Our internet is unreliable and slow. I have heard similar complaints from others. On the positive side, it's inexpensive - about 25 $ USD per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
We had to shop around before finding a good vet, but overall we are satisfied with the quality of care. If only humans could receive such good treatment.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some jobs at the international school, plus tutoring or teaching opportunities.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Romanians tend to dress formally but not overly so.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The usual petty crime concerns for any big city, but nothing unusual.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is absolutely terrible. Avoid public hospitals at all costs. Bribes must often be paid at every step of the process. Private facilities have better equipment, but I have heard numerous stories of doctors misreading/misdiagnosing test results. Other health concerns include allergies and respiratory problems, which tend to be common
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Moderate-to-poor air quality. Dust in summer. Many people develop allergies. Respiratory problems are common but usually not severe.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Gloomy climate. Cloud cover is common from November through March. Spring arrives mid-April. Summer is stifling hot and dry. Winter is not bitterly cold, but heavy snow is a possibility.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The international school is situated on a pleasant campus in Baneasa. Teachers are hit-and-miss. I have heard expats complain about the math program in particular. The student body is multinational, with Romanians comprising the largest (but non-majority) group.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
The international school has a special-needs program that apparently is quite good.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Preschool available but expensive.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
We have found some, but mostly in Romanian.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Don't know exact numbers, but would estimate it as medium to large. The US Embassy is medium to large, and the diplomatic community is amply represented here. Also lots of international organizations and NGOs.
2. Morale among expats:
Low, especially at the U.S. Embassy. This is largely due to post management and embarrassingly-poor funding.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Not really. Except for the parks, the city is NOT pedestrian friendly. People smoke all the time at restaurants, so it's not good for kids. Singles have some decent nightlife options, but in winter this is usually limited to extremely smokey bars and cafes.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's an awful place. Gays and lesbians suffer widespread discrimination and generally remain in the closet in Romania.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many problems. Widespread anti-Roma (gypsy) sentiment throughout the country. Also discrimination (not always overt) against blacks and Jews. This is torst place we have ever lived in terms of prejudice.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Seeing Transylvania, traveling to Bulgaria, short flights to most European capitals.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Not much in Bucharest. Traffic is terrible here. Transylvania is very beautiful but difficult to access due to bad roads/traffic. Black Sea coast 2.5 hours away but limited to summertime. Also, hotels are overpriced and with poor service.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Woodcarvings and textiles.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
No special advantages.
11. Can you save money?
if you don't travel, yes. But the best thing about Romania is getting out of Bucharest and into the countryside.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
A resounding NO.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
bicycle.
3. But don't forget your:
umbrella, patience, sense of humor and round-trip ticket.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Tom Gallagher has written on the political situation here. There are a number of books about the Dracula legend.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
6. Do you have any other comments?
Bucharest is a traffic-clogged, ugly and unfriendly city. We have lived on five continents, in both first-world and developing-world countries. This has been our least-favorite place.
