Bucharest, Romania Report of what it's like to live there - 02/19/14
Personal Experiences from Bucharest, Romania
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yup, first experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Since we were last based in DC, it's not a terribly exciting route: DC to Frankfurt to Bucharest, about 11 hours of flying time. Ask my in-laws about their route and you will find yourself exhausted: Springfield, MO to Chicago to Dulles to Frankfurt to Bucharest. It's only 90 minutes of extra flight time, but what a difference it makes!
3. How long have you lived here?
November 2011- November 2013, we lived in the suburbs of Baneasa (northern Bucharest) for 9 months and downtown for 16 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Our first post as a Foreign Service family landed us in Bucharest for 2 years.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
We lived in the houses in the suburbs of Bucharest near the American school and admittedly hated it due to lack of sidewalks, local culture and flavors, and cabs always refusing to pick us up. But many families loved it. Living in Baneasa meant they were close to school where the compounds usually were stacked with children running around the streets well into the night. It was mostly expats in my area, not from the U.S., and mostly everyone spoke English. So if that's an interest, it's a great place to be.
We later moved into an apartment in the city onto a main vein of Bucharest. It was drenched with locals and expats, many languages being heard at the street cafes. Families who lived in the cities could still make use of the private school buses to pick up their children. Our apartment was between two HUGE parks and a 15 minute walk in all directions to hit a museum or seven. Tons of restaurants, cabs, noise (typical city noise) and life was in the city. My 2 young children never went lonely at the playground either.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Groceries can get expensive especially with imported prices and 24% VAT. But the selection is there if you want or need: gluten free, organic, ethnic. Household supplies are also present. Admittedly, I never thought I would write something about cleaning products, but if there's a scent you can dream up, Romania already has it in the bag. Tons of scented cleaning products and toiletries. Fruity smelling TP even.
Feeding a 3 and 1 year old, a husband and myself, weekly groceries cost me about US$150. But we cooked a lot.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing. Romania has everything you could possibly need or want.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
*Sigh* yes there is KFC, McD's, Cinnabon, Subway, BK, Pizza Hut. No Wendy's that I know of but there are European joints too: Snack Attack, Nordsee, and a variety of others. Find them aplenty at the malls. Consider yourself lucky that most malls in Bucharest have not one but TWO Starbucks.
Decent restaurants? Totally. We dined on Argentine and USDA steak at Osho, dabbled with sushi at Sushi Ko, feasted on mici (local meaty/sausagey fare) at Casa Alba and pretty much off the side of the road. Prices range from 4 bucks to 40 per plate. You can get all types of gourmet flavor and the site bucharest.inyourpocket.com/ is quite reliable.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Flies, mosquitoes, box elder bugs. Nothing out of the ordinary.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
As of 2013, Americans have been shelling out 20 RON/hour, about US$7 to keep house, or watch children. There are some nanny/housekeeping agencies to do the footwork, but demand 1 month payment as an application fee. It's pretty easy to find someone by word of mouth. I knew one particular expat who hopped into taxi cabs and asked them about family members who might be looking for work. She landed a full-time nanny at half the price of the going rate, and seemed to like her.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes, they are private and very expensive but have anything you could possibly want: yoga, pilates, weights, cross fit, swimming pools, and the higher end ones will likely have English speaking staff. I couldn't tell you more than that, but check out the more popular places: worldclass.ro, verticalspirit.ro, atlantisfitness.ro, stejariicountryclub.ro, and pescariusports.ro.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Depends on your comfort level. I used my debit card regularly at major shopping venues and reputable hotels and restaurants. Cash flow is easy to come by and you will find yourself agonizing about the piles of spare change. It's funny, all stores want correct change but get annoyed if you hand over your coin collection. Small bills are always preferred.
ATMs? Well I used the ones with big national banks and had no issue. Conversely my husband did the same thing and nearly every time his card would get flagged. So it's different for everyone.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I know for sure there's Catholic service at the Sacre Coure Catholic Church for Christian services (see arcb.ro and churchoftheresurrection.ro).
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Learning a language is ALWAYS a good thing! But since you asked, Bucharest speaks a lot of English and you ought to have little trouble navigating around the city. I used my Romanian to get me directions and make small chat with the locals whereas my husband utilized it everyday for his job. It's a versatile and worthwhile tool but not required.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Though accommodations aren't up to par and getting around can be tricky, transportation is getting better. The metro is installing more handicapped elevators and escalators but it's a slow process. Sidewalks are slowly improving too, but of course the progress doesn't feel fast enough. Some buildings are equipped with ramps, but most are not. I found I frequently had to pick up my stroller and carry it into stores or buildings.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
I LOVED the trains, buses and taxis. Trains were slow, but doable AND have heating and ac when needed. Buses and metro routes are bountiful in the city, costing about US$1 to get from point A to point B. Taxis are clearly marked with price on the side of the car- just make sure they use the meter, especially if it's later hours. Some will take advantage, resulting in a US$100 charge for going 2km. Really. It happened to my brother in law.
Taxi apps made my life completely wonderful and thanks to the airport's efforts, getting a taxi there is a godsend: you get a ticket and stand in line for your turn. It's that easy. Taxis run 1.39 RON/KM, so about 40-50 cents/KM. Some are more like 3.50RON/KM - make sure you look at the price before committing.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We drove a 2011 VW diesel Jetta without any issues. On Romanian roads you will see Dacias from the 1980's, SUVs, Rolls Royces, and every other car in between. People park when and where they want, so dings can become a problem, but body work is affordable. Roads around the country vary from baby-butt-smooth asphalt to strut-gutting-potholed dirt roads. We did go through a set of tires in approximately 18 months, so the tire industry is booming there. There are many car companies (VW, Mercedes, Subaru) that can aid in vehicular repair, but chances are you can ask nearly anyone at the gas stations if they know someone and they will. Car registration took about 3 months and cost about US$300. I never saw or read about carjackings in Bucharest.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
YES: cheap too! We got cable/internet for about US$20-30/month. One caveat: we had a terrible time canceling our service/contact when our tour was over. They simply could not or would not let us cancel our contract. The company said I needed to return to the country and pay the final bill. and there was no other way around it. I lost a few marbles trying to sort this out. In the end, we left without resolving the issue.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Get one! Particularly a Smartphone because Google Maps got me out out trouble more than once. Well, it got me into trouble sometimes too but hey- it's always a work in progress. Thanks to recent acquisition of Internet in the past 10 years, 3G (and maybe 4G if not already) is aplenty. Don't bother with VM. No one uses it.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No quarantine required. I was very happy with our vet who preferred to make house calls. He even dropped off our dog's Pet Passport and Certificates by hand. I know several people who boarded their pets at pet hotels with ease and success.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Tough call. Maybe? I suppose I could have gotten a job as a nurse within a private clinic, but I didn't ever look into it. I know plenty of women (spouses) who spent more time volunteering than working, but I also know there's interest in freelance work within the expat community. Things like teaching yoga and pilates, being a professional organizer, photographer... the typical expat spouse thing.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Take your pick! Want to hold babies at local hospitals? Foster pets? Work with at-risk women? Build a house? There's tons of NGOs and churches thirsty for volunteer work.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Predictable attire, though I have seen my share of black bras and sheer blouses. Heels are essential dress, and people usually are coiffed, ready for the day. Only the American moms would drop their kids off at daycare in yoga pants.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Aside from my kids' sippy cups getting stolen off the top of my car once and losing my wallet in a taxi (and never got it back) I didn't note any safety concerns. I was comfortable walking downtown by myself content - knowing Bucharest has the lowest crime rate in Europe.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
We were advised to not drink the water due to high levels of lead and arsenic. Many people drink bottled water for that very reason. Medical care can be found- there are state run hospitals and private hospitals who are capable of X-rays, MRIs etc. My son needed stitches and we took him to the local pediatric hospital. They stitched him up, took an X-ray and provided follow up care for no money. It was great. I have had prenatal care there without major issue. My husband had an MRI for the cost of 200 RON (US$60). The big stuff is available, though it's still an intimidating system to figure out.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is like that of any other metropolitan city. I'd say moderate. Due to so many trees in the parks, and surrounding forests, on most days the pollution doesn't usually hang in the sky like it does in other places like Chengdu China. I have never been afraid to gulp in large amounts of air whilst standing at a cross walk.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
While Romania has a reputation for grey skies, they do get all four seasons: plenty of spring rain, hot summers that can get into the 90s (F) and the warmer temperatures linger into gorgeous fall weather. Of winter does get into the low teens with plenty of snow, especially with the absurd climate change.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I have not experienced this yet. But I do know there's the American, French, British, Mark Twain International, and International School available.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Unsure of this, I never asked.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There are so many in Bucharest, I wouldn't know where to start. I took my three year old to English Kinder (www.englishkinder.ro) for a year and Olga Gudynn (http://www.olgagudynn.ro) for the summer session. Both cost about US$500 (1200-1600 RON) month for all-day care. Both experiences were basically good. I have my biases like many do, so the important thing to consider is why type of school you are interested in: a place with a homey feel, versus a scholastic feel. My kiddo was quite happy at both but would I re-enroll my son in the homey EK? Nope. But definitely yes to OG.
I'd also like to note both places speak English, and there are many more Romanian speaking preschools worth checking out too. I had friends very happy at their various locations. AND for the Montessori minded folks, that's there too.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
I think so, having seen kids play soccer and rugby (frr.ro) with regularity. I know people participated in activities at the Diplomatic Club and then there are places like MikoKids.ro, that offers various sports and activities. You know what was huge amongst the expats? Fencing clubs: (check out http://www.cursuri-scrima.ro/en/despre-scrima/fencing-club-in-bucharest).
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Always ebbs and flow, but I feel like overall it was a great community. I made friends from all over who enjoyed getting out into the city. We made play dates, hung out at cafes, exercised together, and partied together. Bucharest is always changing.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Concerts! Shows! Sports (mostly soccer and rugby) and man there's some great music running through Bucharest. Did I mention that already? Jazz is huge here, as is alt-indie-rock and especially heavy metal music. Then there's the more laid back cooking classes (societegourmet.ro, thelondonstreetatelier.com). Go to a park for movies under the stars or people watch: inparc.ro, relax in Lispcani (Old Town) and drink a beer on the cobblestoned walkway. The movie theaters here are also pretty cool. For less than US$50 for 2 people you can get VIP seating with buffet gnoshes and bottomless beer or wine.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes, yes, and yes. The city is thick with children's entertainment: puppet shows, plays, crafts, museums, parks, and most restaurants are child friendly. There's TONS of bars in Old Town, thus tons of dancing and an effervescent night life for singles and couples. There's opera, theater, music, jazz, ballet, sports teams - the key is to find something you like to do. I'd recommend checking out meetup.com, Orasulm.eu, and obviously FB are great places to see what's what. If you want to sift through the websites of interest I collected while living there check out: http://www.pinterest.com/emlovesbeer/romania/
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's getting there. The Gay Pride Parade grows each year. 2012 was something like 200 people, and 2013 was between 250-300. There are gay organizations (i.e.: ACCEPT https://www.facebook.com/asociatia.accept). People are "out" but it's still not very common. I know there are a few specific gay bars.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
It's the Balkans.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The parks in Bucharest are a major plus for not only children, but couples and singles as well. There's many to choose from and at any given time there are concerts, plays, activities and social gatherings going on. Spending an hour at Herastrau Park whilst drinking a beer in a lounge chair was a personal favorite. I took my family cycling in Prahova Valley to experience the countryside. We rode bikes, tasted wine and dined with a local charity that has a reputation for delicious home cooked meals (check out cyclingromania.ro.) We enjoyed the Inn on Balaban, a B&B tucked high up in the mountains. We loitered, relaxed and were stuffed silly with their amazing cuisine. I can't even tell you how beautiful the view is of this place (http://www.gobtf.com/innonbalaban/Home.html).
On the opposite side of the country we gaped at the Bucovina Monasteries and shopped for the region's famous black pottery. We loved hitting the museums and their countless craft fairs, shopping at local markets and of course going to concerts and shows- my goodness we saw tons of great bands like Moonlight Breakfast, Depeche Mode, Lady Gaga, Buena Vista Social Club.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
What CAN'T you do in Bucharest?! I already listed my coveted websites, but specific ones I frequented are: orasulm.eu, allevents.in, myticket.ro, inparc.ro, bilete.ro.
I can't stress enough: museums, concerts (OMG in the summer, there's something like 30 music festivals), art openings, bazaars, fairs. I was never bored. My family was never bored. Heck you can go bowling, head to a skate park, an amusement park, water park, go ice skating, play soccer, go rock climbing and even golf in Bucharest.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Check out cool companies like Wagner Arte (wagnerarte.com), Phoenix Star (phoenix-star.ro) for hand tailored Armani suits, ROD for Romanian Design products (www.facebook.com/ROD.Carturesti?ref=br_tf). They offer beautiful, authentic craftsmanship and are worth every cent. If you are more inclined to traditional goodies, then the Peasant Museum and Village Museum have a great selection of hand painted eggs, hand painted icons, rugs, masks and pottery. The prices are comparable to what you might find in the local village where they originated. And one side note: if you get a chance, try some Bulgarian wine. Actually, if you have the ability to drive south to Ruse, Bulgaria- do it. Bulgarian wine once upon a time was up in the leagues of Italian and French wine. I think it STILL is, but it's in the early stages of getting itself back on the fashionable wine map.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Most people might say the best advantage of living in Bucharest is the ability to travel around Europe. There are cheap local and international flights, particularly if you take discount flyers such as Tarom, WizzAir, or Pegasus.
Others might argue the best advantage is their culture. Romania has 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites where you can find fortified churches, painted monasteries, historic battlegrounds from the days of the Roman Empire. Mingling among the old churches and walls are Communist buildings, classic and modern European architecture. Obviously Romania is rich with controversial history. Bucharest is full of dynamic personalities. At any given time, especially in Bucharest, you may see anything from traditional farmers to priests to movie stars to artists in the crowds. I have never seen such incredible artistic/graphic/jewelry design concepts thanks to the younger generations making their mark. Also ecotourism is a blossoming industry in Romania and there are countless and worthwhile opportunities to undertake. They offer unique and affordable activities like bear watching, back country skiing, hiking, cycling, cooking locally. You can even indulge in eco-tourim inspired spa vacations since there are many natural springs hidden amongst the mountains.
10. Can you save money?
Yes, just try not to blow it on all the cool travel the country affords. We didn't save any.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I've been racking my brain for the past several hours, and I honestly can't think of anything. I am just glad I went. Its rich culture, interesting people, and amazing landscapes will be seared in my memory forever. I'm not saying it's a blow out of life affirming goodness- living in a foreign country is HARD. But I took the good with the bad and tried to appreciate my experiences living here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes, yes and yes.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Fears that Bucharest is lacking in "first world needs."
4. But don't forget your:
Sense of humor, patience and good espresso maker.
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Tales From the Golden Age, and though it's not a movie, check out Things you didn't know about Romania"
6. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Along the Enchanted Way
Twelve or so years ago, Blacker left the comfort of his British home for a new life in a northern Transylvanian village. He published his memoirs of this experience in this charming and humorous book.
Windmills of the Gods
It was written in 1987 but that's what makes this thriller such an accurate portrayal of the suspicion that existed between East and West. The story follows Mary Ashley, a young ambassador of the U.S. to Romania, who is thrust into a nightmarish adventure of kidnapping, assassination and espionage.
Wildwood Dancing
Fans of young adult fantasy should snatch this book off the shelves. Set in Transylvania in the 16th century, Wildwood Dancing is a Grimm Brothers' fairy tale with a twist. Loosely based on The Twelve Dancing Princesses, the story follows the adventures of Jenica and her sisters as they uncover the dark secrets of the "wildwood."
The Last Hundred Days: A Novel
A novel with hints of autobiography, The Last Hundred Days tells the story of a young British man's experiences during the tumultuous last days of Ceausescus regime in Bucharest as he forges and questions his friendships.
The Appointment: A Novel
Written by a Nobel Prize winning author, this novel is set in communist Romania, where a young female factory worker is accused by the secret police of sewing notes in mens' suits with the intention of escaping the country.
The Land of Green Plums: A Novel
One of Mueller's most famous works, The Land of Green Plums tells a story of an oppressed German minority group who face dire circumstances in Romania under communism.
The Historian
A combination of mystery, horror and historical fiction, The Historian is a best-selling novel inspired by the legend of vampires and Dracula, grappling issues such as good and evil, religion and history.
Windmills of the Gods
It was written in 1987 but that's what makes this thriller such an accurate portrayal of the suspicion that existed between East and West. The story follows Mary Ashley, a young ambassador of the USA to Romania, who is thrust into a nightmarish adventure of kidnapping, assassination and espionage.
Train to Trieste
Mona is an impulsive Bucharest teen who falls in love with Mihai, a boy from the mountains, in the frightening time of Ceausescu's dictatorship. Paranoia and the disappearance of loved ones forces Mona to escape to America, only to find herself twenty years later determined to return to Romania-and to her first love.
The Forgotten
Holocaust survivor Elie Wiesel writes of his native Romania. In The Forgotten, Malkiel's father Elhanan, who is suffering from memory loss, tells his son of his past in a Romanian village where he prevented a crime. Malkiel travels to the village to confront the past of his father.
