Bujumbura, Burundi Report of what it's like to live there - 10/30/08
Personal Experiences from Bujumbura, Burundi
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
Yes.
2. How long have you lived here?
4 months.
3. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
There are direct flights from Brussels twice a week that take about 8 hours. Flights from the rest of Europe are through Nairobi or Addis Ababa where there can be a long layover -- it can take up to 24 hours to get to your destination. It takes at least 24 hours to travel between Bujumbura and the U.S.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse of a U.S. government employee.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Expat houses are large and spacious with gardens and/or pools. Many have mango and avocado trees in the yard. Most houses are located on the mountainside above town and have a view of the lake or of the Congo mountains. The city is small so commute times average 5 to 10 minutes, depending on traffic.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local fruits, vegetables, and meats are inexpensive, as well as locally bottled beer (Primus and Amstel), juice (pineapple and passionfruit), and soda (Coke, Fanta, Schwepps tonic and soda water). Almost everything else is imported (mainly from Europe, China, Saudi Arabia, and South Africa) and is expensive, up to double what you’d pay in the US. Wine costs about the same as hard alcohol. Dairy is expensive and fresh milk is almost nonexistent. Stocks of everything are unreliable, if you see something you want, buy it, because it could be weeks before it shows up in the store again, even the local items.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cleaning supplies, more “favorite” foods, more first-aid items—Neosporin, hydrocortisone, pain relievers, more mosquito-repelling products.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
“Fast food” does not exist here. What’s considered “fast” for lunch may still take 60 to 90 minutes. There are many good restaurants though, mainly Indian and European. Cost varies, but is normally low to reasonable. Service is always slow, even in an otherwise empty restaurant.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Widely available for US$80 to $120 a month, depending on the services you want.
3. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
This is a cash-only place.
4. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Catholicism makes up the majority of the religious population here but there is also a Protestant church, a Greek Orthodox church, and a Muslim mosque. To my knowledge, there are no services in English but there may be some in French.
5. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
English-language print media is sporadically available at some hotels and grocery stores. The satellite TV company is from South Africa and much of its programming is in English (mostly British, with a handful of American shows). There’s no English-language local media.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
French is a necessity and locals will appreciate if you know a little Kirundi. There’s very little English spoken here.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
This is not a good place for physical disabilities. There are no wheelchair ramps. The hospitals don’t even have elevators—stretchers are dragged up the stairs.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Driving is technically on the right side, but in reality it’s done where ever there’s an open space. There’s a mix of left-hand and right-hand drive cars on the road but I’ve heard a new law is banning the importation of right-hand drive cars.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
They probably are affordable, but they are not safe.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A high-clearance, 4WD vehicle is best. All car parts are expensive so bring whatever you can with you.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
It’s available but expensive and unreliable. It’s approximately $75/month and the server goes down several times a week. “High speed” is relative—you can Skype and upload photos, but it may take several hours to download a video from itunes.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
They are available here and lots of people have them. Service is terrible though.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Phone cards or Skype if you have internet access.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Ship your own pet food and kitty litter. Animals need a rabies vaccination to enter the country. There are vets in town, at least one that is Belgian who will do an EU health certificate for when you leave the country. If you go on vacation and leave your pet behind, have your housekeeper or a friend come by to take care of it.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
No. Preference is given to local hires and French is a necessity for working here. Wages are generally not as high as “Western” wages.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business casual and conservative. There are no dress codes for women, but you’ll see many women with skirts to their knees or longer (except when exercising). Flats are recommended rather than heels and you see many women wearing flip-flops for walking outside and changing to nicer shoes in the office. Outside of work, shorts, tshirts, and flip-flops or sneakers are the norm.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
Mostly good, a little smoky and hazy in the dry season.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
There’s political instability and rebel groups are becoming active ahead of 2010 elections. You sometimes hear gunshots or grenade attacks from the “bad” parts of town. There are often roadblocks in the mountains outside the city.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
You must have a yellow fever vaccination to enter the country. Other concerns include malaria, cholera, AIDS, food-borne illnesses, infections from bacteria in the lake, allergies from the smoke in the dry season. Medical care is frightening. The doctors sincerely work hard, but it’s quite substandard compared to the U.S.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are two dry season and two rainy seasons. During the rainy seasons, there are generally showers for an hour or two each day, with sun the rest of the day. The temperature is moderate, generally in the 80s during the day and 60s at night, year round. Being close to the equator, the sun is very strong. Also, there’s almost exactly 12 hours of daytime and nighttime every day, year round.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
I do not have children but I’ve toured 3 of the schools used by expats here: an English Christian school, the Belgian school, and a Montessori school. The English school is the only one in the city that teaches in all English, the others are in French. They seem great for younger children but many people question the quality of education beyond primary school. The Belgian seems to be the best for secondary education, but it’s all in French.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Schools may work with special needs kids on an individual case, but no school has a specific program in place.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nannies are available and quite inexpensive. The Montessori and Belgian schools accept children as young as 18 months for nursery/preschool programs.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small, but friendly. The UN is here as well as several NGOs.
2. Morale among expats:
Surprisingly high. People gather for drinks and parties on a regular basis.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Many expats have house parties. There are many restaurants that are eager to cater to large groups, or the chef will come to your house to prepare the meal. Restaurants have lake views and/or outdoor garden seating. There are a few bars with live music.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It’s probably better for singles and couples without children. There are a lot of younger Americans and Europeans working for NGOs so there’s a pretty good “grown up” scene.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not really. There’s the Burundian ethnic conflict, but expats are fine. In general Burundians are friendly and nonjudgemental.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Lake-front bars and restaurants for watching hippos at sunset. There’s a beach club. Lots of good restaurants. A small natural history museum with crocodiles. A nature preserve with hippos and crocodiles. Many running and walking clubs. Most weekends there will be at least one house party—home entertainment is the most popular here. There’s one movie theater that shows somewhat recent American movies dubbed in French.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are few crafts here, but there’s some locally made furniture and other woodworking items. There are baskets and some fabrics and beading.
9. Can you save money?
If you never leave the city and only eat local foods, then yes. Flights out of Bujumbura are expensive as are imported items.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes!!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
Sunblock, raincoat (you’ll need both in the same day!), sense of adventure, sense of humor, patience.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
6. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The National Geographic special “Capturing the Killer Croc”. It’s about the world’s largest Nile crocodile, which lives in the river delta just outside Bujumbura. It’s available on DVD and on YouTube.
