Recife, Brazil Report of what it's like to live there - 01/04/11
Personal Experiences from Recife, Brazil
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, have lived in Mozambique with US Government.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC. 2 1/2 hours to Miami then 8 hours to Salvador, then 1 hour to Recife.
3. How long have you lived here?
6 months
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Mostly high-rise apartments. The US Government mostly leases 4-5 bedroom apartments in southern Boa Viagem right across from the beach. The apartments have terraces with ocean view, a small gym, a children's playground, and a pool. There are a few apartments in Pina as well. The Boa Viagem commute is 15-20 minutes in the morning and 30-60 in the afternoon. From Pina it's 10 minutes in the morning and 15-20 in the afternoon.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There are two grocery stores within walking distance and a few others within a 5-10 minute drive. The quality of fruits and vegetables is inconsistent, milk is the long-life boxed kind, cheese selection is small, and yogurt is runny. Other than that, you can mostly find what you need. We spend at least what we did (and often more) per month than we did in Washington DC.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
You can find pretty much anything you need, but we definitely miss certain ethnic foods (Mexican, Thai, Indian).
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
US fast food includes McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Subway, and Applebee's. There are lots of places that are self-service where you pay by the pound that are quite good and within $10. A few other Brazilian fast food places like Habib's (Arabic) and Bob's (Hamburgers) are cheap and not bad.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Some of the bigger stores (including Sam's club) have a larger selection of these items, although they tend to be more pricy.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes are an issue - some carry dengue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Diplomatic pouch comes once a week (sometimes it slips to two) and takes 2-3 weeks to send and receive mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, but can be suprisingly difficult to find good help. Minimum wage is 510 reais, but most families pay several hundred more per month for full-time help (approximately $300-500). You will also pay a 13th month at the end of the year and make contributions to social security if you hire full-time.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are small gyms in the Boa Viagem apartments, and I've seen larger gyms throughout the city.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Banco de Brasil and HSBC seem to work fine. Most restaurants and stores take international credit cards as well. There have been some cases of consulate workers having numbers stolen.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
I am unaware of any English-language services, but there is a wide variety of denominations. All major Christian religions are here: Catholic, Baptist, Methodist, Anglican, and Evangelical as well as a Jewish temple.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
English newspapers and magazines are hard to find outside of airports. However, cable-tv packages do offer English channels. We have Sky and it comes with some 10 English channels (including 1 for children). We pay $80/month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
There is very little English here, so even a basic understanding of Portuguese will be beneficial.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Aside from the sidewalk along the beach, most sidewalks in the city are not pedestrian friendly and would create difficulties for someone with physical disabilities. I have also not seen many buildings with wheelchair access.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
US Government personnel are not permitted to take public transport; however, taxis are permitted, plentiful, and fairly cheap. From the Boa Viagem apartments to the Consulate is roughly $15 one-way.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Smaller cars tend to dominate and are preferable for several reasons: gas prices are high and parking places are small. That said, you would not be out of place in an SUV or minivan. There are lots of places, including many foreign dealerships: Honda, Nissan, Ford, etc., here to service your car).
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
GVT - the newest service offers 15mb but has been slow to react to demand for their product. Oi and Hotlink are other options and have up to 8mb and 1mb repsectively. Packages range from $50-$100/month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The consulate provides staff with cell phones. Otherwise, there are lots of plans and they are relatively cheap.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not really - a few NGOs, some language institutes, and the American school. The US consulate currently has one full-time consular job.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
The city is fairly casual. Work tends to be shirt and tie.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
The US Government classifies the city as a critical crime threat. I have heard stories of street muggings and car thefts. Several favelas (shantytowns) are right next to other neighborhoods and that means you do have be on guard, especially at night. Probably should avoid any jewelry that draws too much attention.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
At least one member of my family is sick nearly every week - mostly allergy symptoms. This is not limited to expats as many Brazilian colleagues suffer similar illnesses. Dengue can be an issue as well. Medical care is generally good - most seem satisfied with doctors, pediatricians, and dentists.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy - despite the proximity to the ocean, the city is quite polluted from all the bus and car exhaust.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Generally hot and sunny from October-May with temperatures ranging from 85-100F. Heavy rains for hours a day from June-September, but temperatures remaining about the same. Nights are a bit cooler.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The American School has had issues in the past and nearly lost their accreditation. I believe they are still on probation. There are only a few Americans currently in the school, but it appears to have made some strides since going on probation. One issue I hear is that there are few native English speakers and that Portuguese dominates outside the classroom. The school is a 5-10 minute drive from the Boa Viagem apartments.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Our pre-school aged children go to a private Brazilian school using the Montessori method. There are a few international children and we are pleased with the facilities and the teaching methods so far. I know of a few families that send their children to a different Brazilian preschool that they are very happy with as well - seem to be a variety of good choices in the pre-school market.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Our children's school has soccer, basketball, judo, swimming, and ballet.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small. The diplomatic community includes the US, Germany, Argentina, Venezuela, Italy, Portugal, Japan, and France for a total of about 25 diplomatic families. There is a small NGO community too, but in general the expat community is dispersed and there are few efforts to bring expats together.
2. Morale among expats:
Average - the beach helps. However, the city is very spread out, traffic dreadful, and there really isn't much to do inside the city proper.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Good restaurants offering mostly regional cuisine, lots of bars, and dance clubs. The beach. Other than that, in-home entertaining.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I would say it's great for singles and couples with the beach, variety of dining options, and a healthy night-life. For families it's a mixed bag. The beach is a positive, but there are very few parks within walking distance and many parks are not safe. The shopping malls have movie theaters with the latest movies and game areas for kids as well. All in all, the city is sprawled out making it difficult to get around very easily.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
There are obvious prejudices, but I have not heard about any overt violence against gays.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The Northeast is very traditional and men dominate in almost every forum. That said, there are no real racial, religious, or gender prejudices.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
The UNESCO World Heritage city of Olinda with tons of well-preserved colonal buildings; the beautiful beach town of Porto de Galinhas.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The beach in Boa Viagem; Porto de Galinhas, Pipa, Natal, and Joao Pessoa are also nice beach towns within 1-4 hours drive. The island paradise of Fernando de Noronha is a few hours flight from Recife. The colonial city of Olinda is beautiful, and there are a few cities in the interior of Pernambuco that are nice to visit to get out of the city. For everything else: Amazon, Rio, Sao Paulo, Salvador - you must fly.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are some nice local handicrafts - art, woodwork, linens, hammocks.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Living in Brazil, literally on the beach. Close proximity to some of the best beaches in Brazil as well as other interesting cities all within a few hours drive.
11. Can you save money?
Maybe. Travelling anywhere and eating out regularly will definitely inhibt the ability to save money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Maybe, but leaning no. Brazil is a great place and the people are warm and accommodating. But the American school is still climbing back and that would be a factor for families with school-aged families. We were also surprised at how expensive things are and the difficulties of saving money are real. The lack of opportunities for spousal employment is another factor.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Winter clothes.
3. But don't forget your:
Beach gear, suncreen, toys under $10 if you have kids - there seems to be a birthday party every week here.
