Karachi, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 03/27/13
Personal Experiences from Karachi, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, D.C. About 20 hours, depending on how long the layover is in Dubai.
3. How long have you lived here?
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
The contributor is affiliated with the US Consulate and has been here for almost a year, a third expat experience.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
1-bedroom apartment. 5-minute communte time (if you walk slowly). There's a move to put some people off-compound. In that case, it'll be 3 bedrooms with a 20-40 minute commute (randomized timings of shuttles, so your start time can be anywhere between 5AM and 11AM) It hasn't happened yet, but the possibility exists.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
There is a small (emphasis on small) commissary. The cost is whatever it would cost you in the US + between 25-100% (depending on the item). Eggs will run you $0.70 at the local supermarket and about $2.00 in the commissary. (They buy them from the local supermarket, so you're paying for the convenience of not going out). Imported goods at local grocery stores are between 10-30% more than they are in the states. Imported fruits (strawberries, avocadoes) and vegetables (celery, baby carrots) are sometimes available but very expensive---twice what they cost in the States). On the other hand, the local produce (oranges, cauliflower, potatoes, okra, watermelon) are very cheap (less than a $1 a kilo for the most part). Dairy products imported from Dubai are also not expensive (you don't spend much on staples as long as you go out and buy them yourself).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Consumables. With the prices at the commissary and the general lack of availability of items, it is worth it to ship non-perishable food here.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The American Club (your sole option for dinner on compound) serves sandwhiches and such. A burger will run you $11.50 (yes, that's dollars); a local dish will run you around $5.50; a chicken caesar salad will run you around $5.85. BBQ Tonight (kababs), McDonald's, Fat Burger, Pizza Hut, KFC, 14th Street Pizza: they all deliver. Prices are cheap (a large pizza with meat is less than $5). There are also decent French, Italian, and Mediterranean restaurants here. The hotels also have a nice assortment of restaurants (including Japanese and Chinese). These will cost between $10 and $50 a head, depending on where you go and what you order. They, too, deliver. For a huge assortment of menus, check out KarachiSnob.com
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitos (potentially carrying Dengue Fever). Flies.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO (same as APO or FPO). Note: Mail is not very reliable (especially outgoing mail). Incoming mail seems to often arrive missing items or in a severely battered condition, and outgoing mail can take anywhere between 2-8 weeks.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Readily available. Between $60-120 a month for a few hours a day, everyday, cleaning of a 1-2 bedroom apartment. (And I'm told by our local staff this is far too high...)
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The gym here has lots of equipment. If you like working out (and can do it independently), you're in a good place.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Credit cards are accepted at all the supermarkets we are allowed to go to (but they don't always work). Bank of America, Capital One and Chase credit cards do NOT work in the commissary or at the club. SDFCU cards and USAA cards seem to do okay everywhere. There is an ATM inside the residence building, but it is often out of cash because everyone who works in the consualte uses it and there's only one. There is, however, a cash-checking person in the consulate every day. Basically, bring a check book. It's accepted at the commissary, and it is the most reliable way to get cash. You will most likely need cash whenever you venture outside.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. There is an International Church of Karachi as well as Catholic Churches. There are a few Sunday services to pick from, but you can't go regularly/routinely (for security reasons).
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN. $12 a month I think. Don't know about newspapers (but the internet works).
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
On compound, you don't need it. The basics are nice (especially for ordering delivery/take-out).
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
I believe there are two handicapped-accessible apartments on compound. Note: None of the FAVs are handicapped accessible, so it would mean you're literally stuck inside.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Use of public transport is not allowed.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
POVs are not allowed.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
$70 for 8Mbps DSL. There are also cheaper as well as more expensive options.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
If you're okay using a standard (numberpad) phone, the Consulate will give you one. If you want a smart phone, bring the kind that takes a SIM card and is unlocked (i.e. not Sprint or Verizon phones). There's only 2G here, so it might not be worth it (but you have the option to activate a data plan).
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
There are vets. I believe they are decent. Only cats are allowed on compound.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Not an option. (EFMs who come here need to have a position with the Consulate.)
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At work: Whatever you work out with your boss. Some people wear jeans and a polo, some wear suits. It section-dependent. Do pack a few suits no matter what--you'll need one. In public: More formal than you would expect: suits for men, or at least a dress jacket and trousers. You'll never need a tux, though. The shoulder-to-ankle rule for women is a good one (and depending on where you go, sleeveless is probably not a good idea). Women should bring shawls (or buy them here, they're cheap)---you're expected to have one even if you're wearing a long-sleeve shirt. No one should go off-compound wearing shorts. The only time you'll need an evening dress here is the Marine Ball.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
You can't leave the compound without an FAV and bodyguard. I've experienced my first mini-evacuation here---just for a little over a week. I feel safe in the compound and reasonably safe while out and about.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
None. There is decent medical care here. They'll medevac you to Singapore for anything serious.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Unhealthy. It smells horrible, like dead chicken, every morning and evening. The air in general smells like exhaust fumes. I don't know what that does healthwise, but it can't be good.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot and humid, basically all year. It has rained twice since I've been here.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Karachi American School is actually a very good school. The graduates are the scions of Karachi's richest families and they get into Ivy League and top tier schools. That said, Karachi is an unaccompanied post. No children allowed.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Small.
2. Morale among expats:
Low.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Depends on your definition.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Families aren't allowed. Singles occcasionally get frustrated by the security restrictions. Tandem couples seem to have an easier time.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
It's a conservative muslim country. That said, you rarely leave the compound so it probably wouldn't matter so much.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Not on the compound. Women are not as respected as men period.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I've gone to Bangkok 3 times in less than a year.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
We just jointly completed a 5000 piece puzzle. It only took a few months. All the Gulf States are a very short plane ride away and there are direct flights to and from them.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Pashminas. Hand carved wood furniture. Afghan and Persian Carpets.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Direct and relatively frequent flights to Dubai (1.5 hrs) and Bangkok (5 hrs).
11. Can you save money?
Yes. There are not that many opportunities to spend money. You'll save more if you don't fly out a lot (but you might lose your sanity).
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. (The money was worth it.)
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sport equipment (except Golf Clubs).
3. But don't forget your:
Swim Suit (one of your few sources of entertainment on compound).
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
VICE Guide to Karachi: Pakistan's Most Violent City (on youtube)
6. Do you have any other comments?
I wouldn't coem back. Think long and hard before you sign up for 2 years.
