Astana, Kazakhstan Report of what it's like to live there - 06/18/14
Personal Experiences from Astana, Kazakhstan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. We have also lived in Sicily, Italy and Mexico City, Mexico. My husband also lived in Iceland.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
California. We haven't done it yet. But from DC, there was a connection in Frankfurt. Travel time is between 15 and 20 hours depending on layover.
3. How long have you lived here?
We have been living here one year, with one year remaining.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Spouse to an employee of the U.S. Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Mostly apartments that are spread out. We live about 4 miles from the Embassy and it takes 10-15 minutes, typically. The houses here are not well built or maintained, so some are falling apart. Apartments are large and spacious for the most part.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Fruits and veggies can get very expensive during the winter months, look for frozen items rather than fresh. Chicken, beef, lamb, pork are available most places. No bacon or ham. We think shopping is comparable to U.S. Markets are a great place to save some money and are open year-round.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Peanut butter, salsa, shampoo/conditioner, nail polish.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Hardee's, KFC, Burger King. All are comparable to the States. Quality is better/fresher than U.S. There is a lot of different Asian and Asian Fusion type places. Italian, Thai, Uzbek, Georgian, Japanese, steakhouse to mention a few.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes. As soon as the ground thaws they are everywhere. According to the embassy medical unit there is no danger of malaria. But I swear the mosquitoes here have teeth. OFF is carried locally. Antihistamine ointment/gel is available at all pharmacies and works well.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
With my husband's employer. I have heard the local mail in unreliable. DHL is available but very expensive.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
There is quality workers available for childcare and cleaning/cooking. Cost varies on duties performed. Just for cleaning, we pay 1000 KZT per hour. Live in is not typical here.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are gyms and we have not looked into the costs because we have equipment at home, as well as my husband's workplace.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Most places take credit cards, ATMs are located throughout the city and in all major shopping spots. It seems that they are mostly safe to use. Always carry cash because oftentimes CC machines at places will not work.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Not many.
6. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
It is not hard to get around, quite a few taxi drivers speak enough English to help you out. There are challenges when shopping and ordering food. Most of my friends speak enough to help us get by.
7. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Using a stroller or wheelchair would be difficult, the sidewalks are ridiculously uneven without ramps. All shopping malls do have ramps and elevators.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We have not used these much but they are safe and clean. Taxis are affordable.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
There are many compact cars here, as well as, HUGE SUVs. They require imported cars to have the newest Euro 4 (maybe even 5 now) standards. We prefer a car with good clearance, especially for snow and occasionally re-routing onto sidewalks. Prep is needed for extreme cold weather. Auto-start is a great idea, block heater, battery warmer, fluids that are made for freezing temps, winter tires. The roads are kept pretty clean during the winter but your driveway or parking lot may not be.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Depends on the location of your home. Reasonable and pretty reliable.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Pre-pay. We use Activ and pay a monthly flat-rate for data and then per call/text. We put approximately 5000 KZT on my phone every 3-4 months.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Yes and yes, so we've heard.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
I don't think so. Unless you can get a job at the Embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Not a lot that I have come across, other than helping at my husband's employer. There is a Catholic charity that many people work with. Medical needs, clothing, food, orphanage.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Professional at work. Anything goes in public.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None that we know of.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The quality of medical care is lacking. Avoid it if you can. Dental is pretty good.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Not bad especially after living in Mexico City. The pollution is mostly dirt/sand and pollen during early summer. High winds blow the pollution out.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Extreme cold in winter (remains below O, down to -40+ F), mild-hot summer (90s F).
Snow began in October and ended in May. Very cold and dry.
Summer is breezy and dry, temps close to 100 F at times.
It can get very windy because we are on the steppe, very flat for miles around.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
We homeschool, which has worked well for us here, especially during the extreme cold. But there is a QSI school and Haileyberry, which is British. I have not heard much good news about QSI and HB always has a waiting list.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is a preschool that families use and are quite happy with. Cost was very reasonable but I can't remember off the top of my head. It is a Kazakh school and they learn Kazakh, Russian and English. They also offer a Kinder program for 5 year olds.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Hockey, skating, swimming... All are in Russian.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There are a lot of expats here. Morale varies greatly during winter vs summer.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Clubs, opera, ballet, restaurants.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
There is a good balance here, it really just depends on what your needs may be.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
The majority is Muslim here but there are no issues with prejudices as far as I can tell. There are many Russian Orthodox and Roman Catholic, as well as Mormon. Most churches only provide services in Russian or Kazakh. I haven't noticed any gender prejudices.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Our boys learned to ice skate. Met some great friends. Visited some historical sights.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Borovoye is a nice drive out of the city into the mountains. Camping, hiking, swimming, resort, great day trip or long weekend.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Leather, fur, teapots, ceramics, rugs.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Interesting history. Ice skating, snow-shoeing, cross-country skiing, hiking. Easy flight to Almaty for down-hill skiing. Safe.
10. Can you save money?
Sure.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
We did a lot of research and had great sponsors coming here.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes.
3. But don't forget your:
Parka and sub-zero boots.
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Do not watch Borat!
5. Do you have any other comments?
This hasn't been the easiest post but it is safe and clean, with good people.
