Tel Aviv, Israel Report of what it's like to live there - 11/17/18
Personal Experiences from Tel Aviv, Israel
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, this was our second post.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
There are direct flights to New York that take about 12 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
Two years, from 2015-2017.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
U.S. Embassy.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most embassy employees without kids live in nice apartments within walking distance (between 5-30 minutes) of the embassy. There are advantages to different areas of the city, but all apartments that we saw were quite nice. Apartments closer to the embassy are often on the beach with stunning water views, but the area doesn't have many open businesses at night and is somewhat run-down in areas.
Other apartments are closer to Sarona or Rabin Square, which is about a 30 minute walk from the beach/embassy, but closer to more restaurants and upscale, leafy neighborhoods. Most apartment complexes have pools. Most families live in the suburbs.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Produce is seasonal, local and cheap. We were extremely pleased with the quality and abundance of vegetables and fruits in particular. Our neighborhood had excellent vegetable shops, butchers, cheese shops, wine stores, etc. We found quality and service to be much better in those small independent stores than in the grocery stores.
While there are are large American-style grocery stores in the suburbs, the city center grocery stores are small and cramped, and service often left something to be desired. TivTam is open on shabbat, however, when most other stores are closed, so at least you have an option if you need something on a Friday evening or Saturday. Sarona market has excellent specialty grocery items available at a price. Levinsky market is good for cheap spices and dried fruits and nuts. There are a few small stores for Indian / Asian imports. Israeli wine is not particularly cheap, but at the $20/bottle range you can get some really excellent local wines.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Cleaning products and paper products are of lower quality and higher cost than the U.S. Many dry goods like pasta and baking products are available here, but much more expensive than buying in bulk in the U.S., so we were glad we stocked up.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Falafel, hummus and schnitzel are, as could be expected, cheap and delicious. Food is often fresh and healthy. Tel Aviv has excellent restaurants, but you'll pay dearly for it: think DC prices or more for a really good meal. In the middle-price range, quality didn't seem to match price for us, so we mostly cooked at home and splurged for nights out. Reservations are required at most restaurants.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
There are lots of cockroaches in Tel Aviv housing. We had many in our apartment until we got a cat and never saw a cockroach again.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. Shipping time to the States was extremely fast.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
I imagine this is expensive. We did not have household help. It's available, but not common.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
There are lots of facilities, though I'm not sure about price. Most apartment buildings have gym facilities. There are lots of sports and yoga classes held in English.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Yes and yes.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Many people in Tel Aviv speak English. Hebrew is appreciated though.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Bus use was prohibited due to security concerns. Taxis are safe; you can call them through an app service, but can be expensive if you rely on them regularly. Trains are excellent, clean, safe and will take you to most major cities around the country or to the airport for a very cheap price. They do not run on shabbat. We used the train frequently to travel to other cities. You can also use Sheruts, which are shared minibuses that run on regular routes. Tel Aviv is an excellent walking city, and you can reach almost any point in the city on foot in 45 minutes or less. We walked everywhere, year-round.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We walked everywhere in the city, and took trains or taxis to other cities, so a car is not necessary if you live in Tel Aviv. We didn't have one, and were glad not to deal with the hassle. Streets in Tel Aviv are small and parking can be a pain, so it's often faster and cheaper to walk or take a taxi downtown. People who lived in Herzliya need a car, however. Many city residents liked having a car for weekend trips to the countryside, but it's not necessary.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Ours was installed before arrival. Speed was fine for normal use and streaming.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Mobile data plans are extremely cheap. We used Golan.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Israelis are extremely pet-friendly. There are lots of vets who speak English and provide excellent care. The city has many dog parks. Local shelters have good fostering programs. There are many, many street cats in Tel Aviv, who are generally healthy since many residents leave out food and water for them. Many people who arrive without pets acquire one here. It was fairly easy to export a pet and local vets are familiar with the process and can assist in all the paperwork for a small fee.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Local salaries are low compared to cost of living. There were EFM jobs at the embassy.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
Pet shelters; teaching English to refugees.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Suits and ties are very rare. Israel is quite informal.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
On the one hand, crime levels in Tel Aviv are relatively low. We felt safe walking around the city any time of day or night. On the other, terrorist attacks do occur. In the two years we lived there, there were several serious attacks within a few minutes walk of our house. Despite this, we generally felt safer than in DC.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is generally good. Dental care is to American standards.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is great. Blue skies nearly year-round. There are occasional sandstorms, but they usually don't last long.
4. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The real threat of terrorism seems to affect people in different ways.
5. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Tel Aviv has perfect weather. It's generally nice year round, with what would be considered "spring" or "fall" weather in the Eastern U.S. for most of the year. July and August are especially hot, and January and February can be chilly and rainy. We kept our windows open for the majority of the year.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large. Lots of Americans and Europeans, both official and private. The community is large enough that you can find your niche.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Volunteer, take classes.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Good for all, I believe.
4. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Excellent. This must be one of the most gay-friendly cities in the world.
5. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
There definitely seem to be many pervasive ethnic and religious issues.
6. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Beach camping on the Mediterranean; visiting wineries in the Golan Heights; and meeting local friends. Keep an eye on flights, you can get great deals to Europe. Jordan is lovely, and it's a short drive away.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Our favorite meal in Israel was at Uri Buri, in Akko. Also, wine tasting at Pelter Winery along the Syrian border.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
There are lots of handicrafts like pottery and rugs. Israeli wine and food products are excellent and make great gifts. You can go antique shopping in Jaffa.
9. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Weather, produce, ease of travel, and historical sights. It's very LGBT-friendly.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
Tel Aviv is a bubble, so the Israeli-Palestinian conflict may not seem visible at first glance if you stay in the city. I felt it was there, though, and can make this, despite Tel Aviv's laid-back appearance, a very stressful place to work. Racism and ethnic tensions are very real here. Also, friendly customer service does not seem prevalent here, and I think a thick skin is necessary.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes. I'm really glad we went and loved all of the experiences we had, and the extremely high quality of life. That said, I was also glad to leave, as it was a stressful few years.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Snow gear.
4. But don't forget your:
Sunblock.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
You could fill entire bookstores with literature on Israel/Palestine. I really enjoyed A Tale of Love and Darkness, by Amos Oz. The Bubble (Ha-Buah) is an excellent movie set in Tel Aviv.
