New Delhi, India Report of what it's like to live there - 08/07/11

Personal Experiences from New Delhi, India

New Delhi, India 08/07/11

Background:

1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?

no, also lived in Hong Kong, Suva Fiji, and Lilongwe Malawi

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2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?

14 hours to Newark

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3. How long have you lived here?

2 years

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4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?

government

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Housing, Groceries & Food:

1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?

housing was great for me - 3 bedrooms, huge balconies. Commute could be an issue, particularly in monsoon season - up to an hour plus sometimes.

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2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?

cheap

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3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?

you can find anything here. would only consider if had a family member with particular food/allergy issues.

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4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?

yes, and it is all very cheap and greasy.

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5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?

there is an organic store in Shanti Niketan - it's incredibly small. most veggies need to be bleached before consuming. gluten-free, I doubt.

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6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?

every kind imaginable

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Daily Life:

1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?

through diplomatic pouch

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2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?

once you find the right person for the job, which can sometimes be a frustrating period of trial and error, you'll never regret the (relative in-)expense.

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3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?

yes

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4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?

I used very rarely, cash is easier. large hotels will take cards though

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5. What English-language religious services are available locally?

i think so

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6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?

a plethora - I think cable cost $6 a month.

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7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?

I'd argue you should have some basics for haggling with taxi drivers, but you can make do without hindi I suppose.

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8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?

the city is hard for someone with no physical disability to navigate - sidewalks are in disrepair/nonexistant and the weather is ungodly.

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Transportation:

1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?

I took taxis regularly, they are cheap, but drivers often try to overcharge and rarely seem to know where anything is actually located. occasionally i felt threatened by some taxi/rickshaw drivers, particularly if alone late at night (to be avoided whenever possible). never took a bus. wouldn't advise train travel for a female alone - you'll likely have a man sit 3 inches from your face, staring the entire time.

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2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?

anything goes on Delhi roads.

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Phone & Internet:

1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?

yes, around $20/month

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2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?

seem easily available on local economy

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Pets:

1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?

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2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?

yes

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Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:

1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?

yes, huge multinationals in gurgaon

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2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?

conservative

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Health & Safety:

1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.

as a single woman, I was routinely harrassed and on several occasions incidents escalated beyond the normal stares and disgusting, breathy comments from men in the street. at least once, men asked my security guards about my habits. I never felt particularly safe in malls or movie theaters and forget about being in a crowd for any special event. I now have a legitimate fear of stampedes.

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2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?

everything, including scarlet fever and polio, exists and thrives here. minor asthma can become a large concern here due to air quality. medevacs to singapore are common for serious illnesses.

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3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?

the worst in the world

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4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?

you'll experience 3-4 weeks of semi-pleasant weather in a year. the rest is unbearable.

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Schools & Children:

1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?

no experience, hear they are good and families seemed happy with them

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2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?

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3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?

there's a preschool at the US Embassy. everyone had domestic help for daycare.

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4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?

through embassies, for sure.

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Expat Life:

1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?

extremely large

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2. Morale among expats:

polar opposites - you love it or you hate it, it seems. and you will never know where you fall on this spectrum until you arrive here.

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3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?

usually seemed to consist of house parties or dinners out. the bar scene can be annoying unless/because you are affiliated with bollywood-ish scene

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4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?

families and couples seem to generally do well here with the domestic staff and large expat network. single men and women, that's a different story. singles trying to date locals have a hard time due to cross-cultural issues. I know there are worse places for a single female to work in this world, but my experience here was horribly negative and I would never recommend this post to another woman in my situation.

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5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?

from what I've heard, I think there is a decent network for gay men.

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6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?

across the board in a subtle manner I would argue - yes. the only expat group that I would have legitimate security concerns for would be females.

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7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?

traveling with family and friends, Diwali and wedding celebrations, eating pretty spectacular sushi at the Taj Mansingh Hotel, eggplant curry, Kerala

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8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?

spas, great art scene, water sports in Rishikesh, Tibetan community in Dharamsala, yoga anywhere, rickshaw rides through Old Delhi

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9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?

amazing jewelry, rugs, textiles, and blue pottery

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10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?

shopping for jewelry and rugs, traveling outside of Delhi (particularly south to Kerala - also had great trips north in Himalayas and east to Darjeeling and Kolkata), great yoga instruction and fantastic massages in spas

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11. Can you save money?

yes

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Words of Wisdom:

1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?

never, the professional experiences were absolutely incredible, but I would never put myself through that again if given the chance to go elsewhere

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2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:

spices, shorts, and miniskirts

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3. But don't forget your:

excedrin migraine and sense of humor

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4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?

everything by Jhumpa Lahiri and Arundhati Roy

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5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:

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6. Do you have any other comments?

i was excited to move to India and am incredibly disheartened that the experience was not a positive one for me. i don't normally post on sites like this, but I can't in good conscience avoid placing my thoughts here in the hopes that I can discourage other single women from ever considering a move to this city.

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