Suzhou, China Report of what it's like to live there - 06/16/07
Personal Experiences from Suzhou, China
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No, New Guinea, Singapore, Indonesia and Malaysia. Madang, PNG, Singapore, Jakarta & Bali, Kuala Lumpur.
2. How long have you lived here?
More than 4 years.
3. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Teaching Business English right now, but all the way from Kindergarten to University.
4. Travel time and best routes to this city from Europe or the US:
Unsure of travel times to these destinations from Shanghai, 90 or so km from Suzhou by bus, takes about 2 hours to the Airport in Shanghai. Consult your travel agent.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
I live in a modern apartment: 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom + en-suite to the master bedroom bathroom, study, living room & kitchen. Commute to class is 30 minutes by electric bike, 15 minutes by taxi which costs a whopping US$2. I have satellite TV for CNN, BBC, Discovery Channel, HBO, National Geographic, Kid TV and Australia Network plus about 50 more International channels for oh, ah, US$200 forever, with no monthly charges.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
How can I put this ? Peanuts. Just brace yourself when you hit the wet markets for groceries for cheap and good stuff, or stick with the supermarkets for 500% of the market price. The wet market is great, we'll hold your hand for the first 2 trips, then you're on your own!
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Yes. Books.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Now, we're getting somewhere. Ronald is available after a 300m walk, the Colonel is also here (terrible quality), Pizza Hut (outrageously expensive) is here if you like queues. Living in SIP - Singapore Industrial Park gets you home-delivered pizza, lasagna or whatever you want for 13-20 bucks. A vast choice!
Daily Life:
1. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We had a cleaning lady for 200 RMB a month, 3 days a week, 2 hours a day cost US$35 a month. DON'T use the ones that are advertised, they charge outrageous amounts. Like 5 times the real amount paid to the lady. Trust me. Scam the ignorant whitey. My wife is Chinese, has slight contacts. CAN DO.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Great. Chinese ATM card is good for cash out ATMs and paying at BIG supermarkets. Don't try foreign credit cards, you might be disappointed. All it takes to get a local ATM card at a bank is a passport and a big smile.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Joking, right? I might get Pastor Doug to do an Ecumenical Service in American English, but apart from that, you're dreaming of Heaven and talking about the Messiah, the son of God in Suzhou. It's not particularly approved here.
4. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
Yes. China Daily and Shanghai Daily (English language newspapers) can be delivered every day to your post box. Not expensive. The ONLY English channel on local TV is CCTV 9 which is repeated every 4 hours. I prefer satellite TV, which we, as foreigners have the Chinese-given right to install and watch. Satellite TV is forbidden to local Chinese. I would have it no other way. I like my Aussie TV and other stuff off the satellite.
5. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Survival Chinese can be learned in 4 weeks. If you don't speak Chinese here, you're in trouble outside of SIP: ripped off, buying stuff, everything.
6. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Enormous. Don't come. China (Suzhou) is light years from ready to cater to differently abled people. Don't even think about working in other provinces or cities, and this is from the third probably most-foreigner-friendly place in China.
Transportation:
1. Do you drive on the right hand side of the road or the left?
Right-side, as in the U.S. I'd never drive here in Crazy China unless the driver had a heart attack en-route. In Australia ? Keep Left.
2. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Absolutely, trains? Jevon from Texas had his ATM card stolen on the way to Beijing in the train by a fellow compartment passenger, big trouble. Buses ? Subway ? Slide your purse/wallet down your front to your belt. Wear your backpack on your front. They will take your coin like hairs out of margarine. Suzhou? 2 bucks for 4 kilometers. I pay $2.50 to get home.
3. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Forget it. You'll thank me for this advice when you get here. Chinese traffic is chaos.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
ADSL, 100 MB/per second. US$12 per month. Google comes back at .04 seconds. Some sites are blocked, by Nanny China but there are cunning ways around that.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
China Mobile at all costs. China Unicom is terrible: sewer pipe audio, echo, terrible coverage.
3. What is the best way to make phone calls back home?
Buy IP cards from legitimate vendors, shops, not the guys on the street, to call back home. Use a mobile phone home to call up using the card. Or, ask the landlord to get IDD on the home phone. I do! Regularly.
Pets:
1. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Forget Fluffy/Fido.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Absolutely. I applied for 7 jobs, knocked back from one, had six interviews and got six offers.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Work? Semi-formal, slacks, no tie here. Public? Ripped jeans, T-shirt - who cares?
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
I'd say moderate.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
None whatsoever. Crimes against foreigners by Chinese are investigated very thoroughly by the police here, as the city wants to present itself as a foreigner-friendly city. All of my Chinese friends have experienced thefts of cell-phones, handbags and purses, even saw & prevented a handbag theft in McDonald's. Let common-sense prevail.
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Go to the Hong Kong Hospital, Western standard. Anything else is someones' idea of a very serious joke. It's your health!
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Ghastly hot and humid in Summer, -1 and snow in winter !
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Suzhoue Singapore International School is the only place I'd send my child. A bit pricey though, US$10-12000 a year for tuition, but most companies cover that.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Hmmmm. China, even Suzhou, is NOT the place to be if you have challenged children.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
As above.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
10,000+ in Suzhou.
2. Morale among expats:
Generally high due to Pop-Tarts available within 500 metres from home.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Pubs and Restaurants, Chinese and International, you name it.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Overwhelmingly yes. Suzhou is a special case. However, it is essential to develop and grow relationships with other nearby expats, or you WILL go crazy and want to leave in 2 months.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I am aware of a few bars that ahhh.... have gay and lesbian clientele, but it is very much 'under the carpet' and somewhat disapproved of here. It is not hard to find a same-sex partner though, naturally a Chinese partner. Sharing a 2-bedroom apartment (same bed) though, is totally acceptable. Just keep up the facade of sharing.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Stay locked in at home and watch HBO or Cinemax. Go to the bars and watch Norwegians have fist-fights. Go play pool. Watch DVDs for 80 cents: late release movies. All my hobbies are dead. DEAD. Read, write, publish a blog on the Internet: www.20six.co.uk/jamiesons-luck-new . Drink very cheap International booze. Go eat sushi and sashimi. Do distance education courses. Go bowling. It's pretty boring here in Suzhou.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Just silk gowns for my family and friends.
9. Can you save money?
Shoot yeah. My wife gets my salary and I get an allowance. It gets put into her bank account. My treats are from private teaching gigs, many in Suzhou.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
I came back twice :-) from the Luckiest Country on Earth - -Australia. Of course I would come back to Suzhou. I know the place, and I can detect the BS before it starts.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Hobbies.
3. But don't forget your:
Books.
