Riyadh, Saudi Arabia Report of what it's like to live there - 02/06/18
Personal Experiences from Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
We’ve lived in Europe, Central America, the Middle East, and Central Asia before Riyadh.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
US. People often connect through Paris.
3. How long have you lived here?
20 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
All housing for US government employees is on the diplomatic quarter and not far from the embassy. Most housing has a bit of a garden surrounded by a high wall and the houses are generally roomy. Some are connected with a communal courtyard. There’s no storage but the embassy provides plenty of wardrobes. The furthest you’ll be from the embassy is two kilometers. That’s too far to walk in the summer, but with women being able to drive soon, that won’t be as much of a concern.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
I’ve been able to find almost everything I’ve looked for. Lulu carries products from all over East, Southeast, and South Asia and has the best selection of produce. Tamimi is a Safeway chain and feels more American and is usually more expensive. Danube is a little more European and Middle Eastern, plus there is Panda which is somewhat similar to Lulu. There’s also a small Korean grocery store. We also can go to the commissary, but I don’t feel that the paperwork, security, and long drive make it worthwhile. Prices in Riyadh are generally similar to the US, except for things imported from the US and Europe. I’ve really enjoyed being able to get a wide variety of ingredients here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
There are a few things I’ve shipped because the price here is high, but overall, not much.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are lots of American chains, plus some Indian and Filipino chains. There are plenty of restaurants and plenty of takeout. Umm al Hamam, which is the neighborhood right next to the DQ, has lots of options from Africa and Asia. This has been challenging for me though, because most of the places I’ve wanted to try don’t have seating for women. We usually eat in the car or take the food home. Also, prayer times make eating out a bit difficult and it can be hard to get something for dinner on short notice.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
APO. It usually takes about 10-14 days for something to arrive.
2. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use my credit card all the time in the grocery store. They’re not as common in the souqs or the smaller restaurants. ATMs are fine and there’s one at the embassy that’s convenient.
3. What English-language religious services are available locally?
There are a number of discreet options if you ask around.
4. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You don’t need any Arabic to live here. However, I think that speaking some Arabic opens up worthwhile experiences that you can’t get any other way. Since most expats don’t learn Arabic there aren't as many classes and tutors as there are at some posts, but there some options. I am glad I speak Arabic because I feel less isolated here.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
We’re not allowed to use any of these except the most expensive Uber option. This obviously is challenging since women can’t drive till this summer. Bring a car, because exploring Saudi Arabia is fun.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
You can bring anything if you’ll just be driving in Riyadh or between cities. But if you want to get off road at alll bring a 4WD vehicle.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
You’re supposed to have internet ready to go when you arrive. If you don’t, it can be a long wait to get it sorted out.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Working at the embassy or AISR is really the only viable option (although some have been able to work out other opportunities). Morale has taken a major hit here with the hiring freeze and its aftermath since there are so few employment options outside the embassy. In the past EFM employment has been a major benefit of Riyadh, but as with most of the world, that is no longer the case.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Surprisingly few. There is concern over missiles coming from Yemen, of course, but to this point it hasn’t been a problem. Crime is very low here and I feel safe walking around.
2. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is not great here. Lots of cars and lots of people don’t help, but the sand in the air is the worst part. The air quality is always bad except right after it rains, which rarely happens. Our entire family has been affected by the air quality. You’ll be issued two purifiers and you can request more, but since the houses aren’t well sealed it’s hard to do much about the air.
3. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Very hot and dry in the summer (May-September), but it’s surprisingly nice in the winter (November-March). There’s almost no rain, but hopefully you’ll get some in the winter if you’re lucky. Riyadh is one of the hottest capitals in the world, but getting a break in the winter makes a huge difference. The low humidity can be a challenge.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
Most USG employees use AISR and some use the British school, along with a few other options. AISR is fine, not great, but not terrible at all. The academic level is lower than many parents had hoped for. But my children have been happy there.
2. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, on the DQ and through AISR. But the long bus ride to and from school has kept us from signing up from many things.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge. A third of the city is from another country. Most are from Africa and Asia, but there are some Europeans and North Americans too. Morale is about what you’d expect here. Few people truly love it here, many hate it, and some are pleasantly surprised that it’s not as bad as they thought it would be.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Shopping and socializing with expats are the two main EFM activities here. There are very limited opportunities to socialize with locals. If shopping and socializing aren't your things, then Riyadh will probably feel very limiting.
3. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes, yes, and yes. “Problems†doesn’t begin to describe it. But that is Saudi Arabia.
4. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I’ve loved the limited chances I’ve had to explore Saudi Arabia. It is incredibly challenging to do much exploring, given the limitations on transportation and the difficulty in finding information ahout places (and random closures of major historical sites), but what we have been able to do is a highlight. I also love to get out of Riyadh for shorter trips. The DQ is near the edge of the city and that makes it easy to get out. We can be on the edge of the Tuwaiq escarpment away from everything and everyone in less than forty minutes.
5. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Geocaching is fun here and one of the best ways to find places to explore. There are some interesting souqs in Riyadh. We like to go hiking, fourwheeling, exploring in slot canyons, rock climbing, and lots more in the winter.
6. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Shopping is one of the few sanctioned activities for women, but it’s not a shopping post as described here. You can buy a few local items but there really aren’t a lot of options, even if you’re really looking.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I’d known how hard it would be to live here. I really tried to prepare - I speak Arabic, I’ve lived in the Middle East, I talked to lots of people from different countries who have lived here, I read lots of books, and I was happy to come here. But the systemic sexism is oppressive here and has made it hard for me to like Riyadh in spite of my best efforts. I am not allowed to do any of the things that have made other posts wonderful.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Not without some changes. Women being able to drive will be huge, but women’s lives will still be incredibly restricted. Religious observance is very hard here. The lack of support from the current administration will make Riyadh more challenging in the next few months when some sections will be understaffed. Saudi Arabia has a lot of potential but I feel that I haven’t been allowed to take advantage of it. I hope that changes over the next few years.
