Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 01/23/10
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
New Delhi, Bergen
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington DC, about a 10 hour flight; there are now several direct flights to WDC and NYC
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Foreign Service
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
generous. There are many choices for Embassy staff: on-compound, city apartments or the distant gated communities of Rosinka and Pokrovsky Hills. Commute from the far communities can take anywhere from 1 to 3 hrs, depending on traffic (the Embassy runs free shuttle buses at peak hours)City apts have metro commutes of 20-40 mins. If you drive in the city, early morning is a quick commute, the evening is a nightmare; can take up to 2 hrs to cover 1 mile of distance.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Good. Many supermarket chains abound in Moscow, starting with the discount chain Perekrostock, then the mid-level Sedmoy Kontinent, and finally the upscale (and expensive) Azbuka Vkusa chain. For the times when you really want to spoil yourself, go to a gourmet store like Eliseevskiy's (at Pushkin square) or Gastronom Nr. 1 inside GUM department store on Red Square. Perekrostok prices are slightly higher thanin the U.S. and all the other options are considerably more; Azbuka Vkusa prices are roughly equivalent to Whole Foods. You will have trouble finding good cuts of beef, but you will find much fresh veal, fish, pork, etc. This is a really tough town for a vegetarian, Russians have little experience with or tolerance for vegetarianism.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
We planned ahead and bought two years worth of non-perishable household supplies at Costco and added those to our household shipment beforehand. We highly recommend this as you can't find most U.S. brands of anything in the grocery stores here and the local products are invariably far inferior to American quality.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Many U.S. fast food chains are here: McDonalds, KFC (called Rostiks here) Pizza hut, TGIF.Cheap Russian options include streetside kiosks such as StarDogs (hot-dogs), Kroshka Kartoshka (baked potatoes with choice of topping) Chudo Bliny (crepes with your choice of stuffing) Shawarma (chicken gyro rolls, but they're nasty here) and my personal favorite - kury grill - rotisserie chicken, available in half or a whole bird for less than $5
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
none
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
The embassy has both a DPO and an unclass pouch address for packages and mail.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
We don't need it, but there is a small community of Filipino housekeepers and nannies that service the Embassy community for a reasonable cost.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Plenty. The embassy has its own excellent gym, featuring a pool, full basketball court, weightlifting room, cardio machines, a racquetball and squash court. Though the membership is not exactly cheap, it's still less than the city clubs.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
It's strongly advised to NOT use the free-standing ATM machines located usually inside or near metro stations - many of these have devices attached that steal your credit card PINsWe regularly use our debit card to pay at grocery stores and restaurants and so far have had no serious problems.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We have been here a year and haven't seen any english language newspapers or magazines for sale anywhere - so you'll need an internet connection asap!Likewise, is only a very small selection of (mostly British) english language TV channels, and those only available if you pay for cable/sat TV.Most Embassy people either depend on AFN, a slingbox, or order TV shows over the internet.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
A lot - Moscow is not very accessible for non-Russian speakers. You should at least take a survival Russian course before you come or else you will be totally lost here. Only the highly educated can speak English dependably, so most basic transactions are conducted solely in Russian.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Many -Moscow is not a very friendly city for disabled, mostly due to the fact that the streets are covered with ice and snow for much of the year. There are no elevators for the metro, only escalators. Most of the underground passages (Perekhod) to cross streets have wheelchair ramps, though.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
The Moscow metro is the best in the world hands-down. I commute every day to and from work - you never wait more than 20 seconds for a new train at rush hour (though every train is crowded). Most stations are as pretty a museum lobby and graffiti-free. Roving packs of police officers ensure that the stations are safe and free of trouble. It's also affordable -I pay $35 for my monthly metro pass. There aren't many real taxis in Moscow, for the simple reason that they aren't needed. You can stick your thumb out and hail a "gypsy" taxi anywhere in the city at any hour, and get a quick and cheap ride to your next destination, about $6.50 will get you most anywhere in the city - but you have to haggle for the price, or it will be a lot higher!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
If you absolutely must bring a car, don't bring a nice one - winter ice and salt will strip the gloss right off. Bring a beater, or better yet, wait and buy a hand-me-down here. We didn't bring one and have few regrets.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but pricey - like everything else in this town - are you beginning to see a trend?about $60/month for the connection (that's without any other bundles services)
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Moscow has a great cell network, many phones can be used inside the metro stations (though not in the tunnels).For local cell phones, there are no subscriptions, they have a pay-as-you-go system, and there are payment ATM machines all over the city where you can go to top off your phone. Embassy phones are subscription based, though.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
no, with the possible exception of birds due to avian flu concerns
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
yes
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Yes, but only if you have solid, in-demand skill sets; business, real estate, finance, banking, or oil-industry knowledge. You won't get far at all without excellent Russian skills.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Same as in America - suits and ties for men, office attire for women. Russian women favor skirts, stockings and high-heels.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
not so much, however, major concerns if you have ethnic Asian or African appearance.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
not as good as can be expected in a city this size. Embassy staff who develop serious medical problems or need operations are whenever possible airlifted to Western Europe for treatment.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
about what you'd expect in a city of 15 million people and millions of cars on the roads - smog and vehicle exhaust.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Brutally cold in winter - expect months of bitter cold around zero fahrenheit starting in Dec, and only a few hours of sunlight a month. Summer is quite nice, warm and sunny, though.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes, but mostly indoor sports such as volleyball. If the kids speak Russian, they could join hockey or soccer leagues in the city, or take tennis lessons.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Large, but strangely scattered. We notice that expats don't mix together here as well in other cities like New Delhi - probably because there are so many entertainment options in the city.
2. Morale among expats:
Huge mood swings, depending on the season. Everyone is miserable and trying to keep spirits up during the long, dark and frigid winter - try to fly south, to keep warm!The summers are gorgeous, and everyone is smiling and content
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Abundant. There are thousands of bars, cafes, restaurants and nightclubs in this city of varying styles and price ranges but none of them very cheap by American standards. Many clubs are open all night long, and there is little concern about drinking age here. Hash harriers are here, as are many other social clubs. There are a few movie theaters that feature English language films. Since Moscow is a major world city, it gets as many touring popular musical artists and groups coming through as any major American city, so you can probably see your favorite concert here if you stay long enough. The Embassy community has Broomball league in winter and Softball in summer, both co-ed; there are also volleyball, indoor soccer and racquetball clubs
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
good for all. For families with small children, the conventional wisdom is that it is much better to live on the Embassy compound or the distant living communities of Rosinka and Pokrovsky hills for safety's sake.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
no
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
YES. Moscow is notorious for isolated skinhead random violent attacks against Blacks and Asians. Also, homosexuality is not tolerated by the average Russian; the gay pride parade is broken up every year by hostile security forces.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
ice-skating on Red Square bathed in the Christmas lights of GUM, at the foot of St. Basil's and the Kremlin; clubbing until dawn
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Catch a ballet performance at the Bolshoi or an opera at Stan&Dan theatre; go for walk on Sparrow hills for a panoramic view of the city; visit any one of the dozens of fine museums; take a day trip to Suzdal or one of the other Golden Ring cities nearby; travel to St. Petersburg and much more.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
caviar, vodka, fur hats. One winter here and you find yourself craving those three things. Other good collectibles here are Samovars, kitschy Soviet knick-knacks, silver teaglass holders, lace.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
amazing cultural events; arguably the world's best city for ballet, opera, musicals, plays, orchestral and symphonic concerts, etc. Huge number and selection of restaurants, bars and nightclubs - though the high prices keep away all but the big spenders. Is a good hub for traveling to Egypt, eastern Europe and the Baltics.
11. Can you save money?
Only if you have a very good salary and limit going out for entertainment and shopping. About the only inexpensive things in this city are vodka and potatoes. However, the COLA and differentials are high, and if you economize you can save serious money.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Hell no, says the wife who doesn't speak Russian. Sure, says the husband who does.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
downhill skis and snowboard - the nearest decent slopes are a 3 hour flight away in Sochi.
3. But don't forget your:
ice skates, cross country skis. And many, many pairs of thick boot socks and long underwear.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Master and Margarita by Bulgakov; The Nightwatch, by Sergey Lukyanenko
5. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
Nightwatch and Daywatch; 12 (by Mikhailkov)
6. Do you have any other comments?
Moscow, though ostensibly a European city, offers many more challenges to the foreigner than most European cities. The dearth of affordable hotels, restaurants and bars, and the extreme language barrier are just a few. Added to this is that Muscovites don't smile in public and all seem to be simmering with deep resentment towards life, coupled with a long, hard winter, make some expats get a bit blue. But there is a lot to love in this city, from its amazingly rich cultural life to its heady, top-shelf style. It's definitely not for everyone, and it demands a lot of adapting from those who would live here and enjoy it.
