Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 11/06/09
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
This is our 5th expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Our home base is Maine. We travel from Portland to DC then DC to Moscow. Took about 13 hours.
3. How long have you lived here?
4 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
My husband is with the State Dept. I teach at the Anglo American School in Moscow.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
In town either in apartments in the city or on the Embassy compound, in Pokrovsky Hills, or in Rosinka. I have not been to Rosinka. They say the housing there is nice, but it's in Siberia and people say the commute is horrific. I would not recommend it. We are in Pokrovsky. I would prefer to be in the city and have all of that great Moscow life at my doorstep, but I prefer to be at the school where I work, where my two kids spend most of their lives, and where they have friends who are easy to get to and from all different nationalisties. I've only seen a few Embassy Compound apartments, and they really are kind of tacky. Remind me of Oakwood, though bigger of course. Kind of dingy, dull layouts, dark in those rooms. And the kids can only play with other Americans when they play on the compound, so their experience is very non-foreign. But, if you have no kids, if you work like a dog till all hours and want to make your life about your work, then that's exactly where you want to be! The convenience is unrivaled.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
A littel higher than back home, but not by much. There is a Metro for bulk buying and slightly better prices. And there is another chain like it (Ashan) that is a Darwinian survival contest, but cheaper prices yet. Metro is more than enough for me! I value my safety! Regular markets are fine too. And the vegetable and fruit markets are great and have good prices and fresh, fresh food (in season only, for the most part, but great food).
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Asian sauces and other exotic flavor options for cooking and perfume-free clothes detergent. Good conditioner for my dry hair in this very dry weather system.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
Anything you could want. We even happened upon a Cinnabon the other day, making my son smile bigger than I've seen him smile in weeks! Ahhh, teh allure of sugar and butter! There are the usual and a few surprises (TGIFriday's, for instance)> I have eaten at one McDonald's and that one Cinnabon. But none of the others. So I can't say if they are what you'd expect, but people say they are.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
None at all. I had maybe three mosquito bites in August. I saw two or three flies all summer. That's it!
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO. It's slow.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Don't know. We clean our own house.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Yes. Pokrovsky people have access to all school facilities (and they are extensive -- tennis, swimming pool, ice skating in winter, gym, etc.) and in town, the embassy has facilities if you want to join AECA. We haven't joined it because we rarely go downtown and most of their services are only useful if you live down there, but if you want to work out at work before heading out to the 'burbs and if you want to balance that workout with a Twinkie bought at the commissary, then you might want to join. I haven't missed it even a teeny tiny bit. The school facilities are more than enough for us and I don't like Twinkies.
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
I use the ATM machine at the school. My husband uses the cashier at the embassy. We rarely use a credit card or the ATM card at any other place. This is habit more than anything from years at some dicier posts, but we have used the ATM on occasion at other locations in town and it was fine. I don't think I've used the credit card in town yet though ... But I will. Just haven't needed to yet.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
We aren't church-goers. Sorry. Can't tell you.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
We get AFN for free in our housing.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
You need to learn to decode Cyrrilic at the VERY least. Tourist level Russian would be enough, but you'd notice the difference in your quality of life and your attachment to your surroundings if you learned a bit more than that.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Lots of problems. It's not wheelchair friendly at all. The Metros are packed, so if you have mobility issues, it would be hard.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes! Except for that pesky punching I mentioned above ... Generally good, safe, clean-ish, and fast. I haven't used an inter-city bus or train yet, but we will. Lots go to St. Petersberg by night train and say it's fine. I want to go on the Trans-Siberian before we go!
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
We have a van. It's okay. Hard to park, but not a big deal.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. I don't know what it costs though. It's not very high speed, I have to say. Some days it's utterly sluggish.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I have one. I rarely use it. My kids just got their first ones ever, but not because they needed it, but, rather, because they were starting to feel like social pirranahs because everyone else had one. Seriously though, they go to school a three minute walk from our house and I work at school. What do they need phones for? I haven't gotten a billl yet. I am told that if it cost us as much as $30 per monoth per phone, that would be very high.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
Nope. They didn't even ask me for her papers! We just walked right through the passport control and the baggage area wondering when someone would ask us for proof that our cat was healthy, and no one ever did!
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
I have a cat who hasn't needed vet care yet, but I'm told there are good options.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
Only the usual dreck at the embassy unless, I suppose, you speak fluent Russian. I am at the school and that's great. But you have to be a certified teacher or be willing to take a low-paying teacher's assistant job if you want to work at school.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Pretty dressy.
Health & Safety:
1. Pollution index (Good, Moderate, Unhealthy, or Very Unhealthy)?
I'm told it's not bad. Although you see disturbing things and wonder why they are in highly populated areas, like three-mile island sorts of places next to the grocery store and a human crematorium spewing whatnot into the air can be seen from the kids' cafeteria at the AAS (a hospital right around the corner is the reason, and not, to my knowlege, anything nefarious, but still ... creepy). Lots of factory smoke stacks spewing other unidentified junk into the air as well. I have a sort of constant something in my throat since I got here. I have to make that vague sort of throat-clearing sound every so often. I've never had that before.
2. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
It's a big city. So yes. But nothing worse than any other big city. I'm a city kid. This isn't weird to me. Maybe if you are new to big city living you could be nervous, but maybe the instinct to be a little nervous, and thus on guard, in a big city is a good thing. Though I have to say, and I'm really not lieing about this, but just yesterday on a Metro ride into town with my two kids, an old-ish woman punched me! In the ribs, from behind and not with a lot of muscle behind it, but it was definitely a closed-fisted punch! We were all trying to get off at a very busy stop and it was packed, and so she did what she felt she had to do to get off the train, I guess. Since I was herding my kids out of the car, I did not defer to her age (maybe, MAYBE she was 10 years older than me!) and what I only later noticed was a walking stick, but still, really? To punch a person?
3. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
The health unit so far has been fine. Local care would be okay in some cases, but people are sent to London for other things. It's not great locally, but it's not hazzardous either.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Cold in winter. Warm in summer. I am still a short timer who has only seen three seasons, but some will tell you there are only two seasons. Though I think that might be hyperbole. I saw a very nice autumn out here just beyond the city with lovely birch leaves turning a vibrant gold. Yes, it was brief, and already winter is here, but it was pretty.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
My kids go to AAS. They are in 6th and 8th grades and they tell me this is their best school ever (and their four USG expat/ international school experience). I have to agree. We came off of 6 months of language in Virginia and my kids went to Virginia public schools and got straight As because it was so easy over there, and my kids, lovely as they are, are not motivated students or gifted, natural scholars. Here they struggle a bit to keep up, but they do keep up and they are challenged. I teach 4th grade. I read the reports of a non-rigorous curriculum from others who have posted here, and I can't speak to previous years as this is my first year teaching here, but they have just instituted a much more rigorous math curriculum with many additional benchmarks that the kids have to meet and the teachers, obviously, have to teach. It's still an IB program, but we have two "masters:" the IB program and the benchmarks, and there is not time enough in a day to teach them more than what is being taught now. I assure you. Not unless you made the day longer, which actually wouldn't be a bad thing. Between PYP and benchmarks, there really isn't enough time to get it all done. Science seems to suffer for it a bit, in my opinion. But I do think the kids get a really good education, even with that.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
At AAS there is differentiated education. They have a Differentiation Specialist hired at the school (a full-time position), so they are obviously serious about wanting to do well by their special needs kids (both gifted and talented as well as for those who need academic supports). That said, I'm not sure that if my child had more than mild to medium special needs or support needs, I'd come to Moscow. But then, I'd probably just stay in the US where the systems are simply easier to navigate because it's my home country. So maybe I'm not the best one to ask on that. International schools can only do so much. Period. But AAS has excellent intentions and puts their money where their mouth is on the subject.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
There is preschool at AAS. I don't know about it. I'm sure it's expensive and State won't pay, as everywhere. People with young kids really seem to like to be at the compound at the embassy, and I don't blame them. There's a preschool there and they can come home at lunch to eat with their young kids or check in on them. If my kids were pre-school aged, I'd probably want to be down there at that school and in such close proximity (even if the apartments are tacky and dark). It'd be a trade off worth making.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Yes. Lots.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Huge.
2. Morale among expats:
Pretty good. There's a blend of outlooks on life in Russia among embassy folks, as with any place.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Out here it's too big of a pain to get into town, so we rarely do. But if you were in town, it'd be a cornucopia of cool stuff to do! Out here it's hanging out with friends, which we like. But we are happy with a quiet life.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
I am cut off from Moscow life out here in the 'burbs. I can see that a lot of family rarely go into Moscow at all who live in Pokrovsky or Rosinka. But, there is a small town feel out here that's nice. So no Moscow life stuff. But great neighborhood stuff. Depends what you want. Me? I want it all! But I'm okay with the compromise. No, my husband and I have not got good restaurants to choose from (a few, but not nearly what you'd have downtown) and my kids are just old enough to be left alone for a few hours, but no more than that, but they are too old to have a babysitter. It's the dark zone of child care needs when they are in middle school! Since a Moscow dinner would take four hours minimum, so we don't have Moscow in-town date nights.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I'm sorry. I don't know. I would think so. But it won't be easy to find at first.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Yes. Definitely. Especially Asians and dark-skinned people. A girl I know showed me what it meant to be black in Russia. She said, "Come on, I'll go in there and you watch the way the register lady treats me." And I did, and she was right. Other kids walked around no problem, but the register lady watched the darker girl (she was half black) like a hawk -- sure, I suppose, that she was a thief. It was very, very obvious, and very unpleasant. And there are beatings. I've heard about them, but only third hand.
7. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Whatever you could possibly imagine, and a few things you can't yet imagine. This city has it all.
8. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Matryoshkas, carpets, linens, the usual.
9. Can you save money?
Not really. I mean, if you are dilligent and do little for entertainment, then yes. But it's a pricey city and the dark winter will make vacations to warmer, sunnier places seem critical. There goes your savings!
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure. It's great. But I'd wait till my kids were in college and live downtown to get a real Russian experience. This compound out here could be practically anywhere!
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
3. But don't forget your:
4. Recommended movies/DVDs related to this city:
The film "Burned By the Sun" is fantastic and really itneresting historically. Our Russian teacher said of it, however, that it made it all seem much too easy and pretty. That it was MUCH worse than that.
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
Really? The usual Russian literary giants will keep you busy for quite a while, I'm sure!
