Moscow, Russia Report of what it's like to live there - 03/14/12
Personal Experiences from Moscow, Russia
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. Cairo, Manila, Athens.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
10 hr non-stop flights to Washington.
3. How long have you lived here?
18 months.
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
US Government.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
There are four housing types: NEC, Pokrovsky, Rosinka and city apartments. NEC: Apartments on the compound. Agency heads get townhouses, everyone else gets an apartment based on their family size. Not fancy, but you literally could do an entire tour here without leaving the compound. Not that I recommend that, but all the conveniences are here. Gym, commissary, the commute to work is no more than five minutes door-to-door. There's a bus that takes the kids to school with multiple return times to accommodate after-school activities. The NEC gets AFN and has internet wired to each apartment (bring your own router). NEC dwellers really don't need to bring a car unless you plan on a lot of day-trips, and with the construction, many personal vehicles will be parked in a garage about 3/4 of a mile away. What the apartments have in convenience, they give up in size, especially if you're of a higher rank. The washer/dryer will be either American sized or European, so if this is important to you, be sure to tell housing. Euro washers take twice as long. Construction is starting on the new annex and will last a few years so there will be some noise and dust during working hours and for part of the day on Saturday. OBO is making a strong effort to keep the community aware of the plans and have shown willingness to be flexible. There are two metro stations near-by and two trolley routes. There are a couple of grocery stores and pharmacies within walking distance.
Pokrovsky: Out next to the Anglo-American School. Housing is multi-story townhouses. A good option if you have kids. There's a shuttle that runs occasionally between the compound and the two closest metro stations. Those stations are walkable but not close and there is no shuttle to the embassy.
Rosinka: Way the heck out on the outskirts of town, the commute is the thing most people complain about and can take hours if traffic is bad. Sort of like living in West VA and commuting into DC. Very nice housing and area otherwise though. There's a shuttle that runs between the compound and the embassy and a bus that runs to the school and back.
City Apts: Apartments in the city will vary widely. Some are in newer buildings and are designed as a single unit with upgraded (for Russia) amenities and others are older and combine what used to be two apartments into one. Some will be quieter, others will be noisier. There is no transportation to the school. Local amenities will vary depending on where you are. You will have the hot water turned off for a couple of weeks during the summer for some sort of maintenance and GSO is typically very bad about keeping apartment dwellers aware of things like building access card changes and water outages. The commissary will deliver orders.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
The embassy commissary gets stuff from Germany and doubles the cost to account for expenses. Stuff costs more in the local grocery stores as well. You can save money if you have good language skills and shop like a Russian, but that isn't 95% of the people working here.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing unusual. About the only stuff I really wanted shipped, and did, was comfort food that couldn't be gotten locally or through the commissary.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
McDonald's, Wendy's and Burger King are all near the embassy, there are a lot of decent restaurants as well. The general rule of thumb here is that the cost ofa meal/drink will be double the U.S. cost.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Get to know where the local farmers markets are. You can get a lot of fresh food here in places that are the size of a warehouse. Grocery stores also tend to have a lot of fresh goods available, although it's a bit hit and miss in winter.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Very few, but there are some when it's warm. If you have screens, keep them closed when the windows are open.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
Post is moving to pouch-only which means restricted liquids and no lithium batteries. They do have an exception for the size of package that can leave.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Available, yes. Cost, unknown.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Each of the major housing areas has a gym. The gym at the embassy is okay. It has a pool, rowing machines, four ellipticals, four treadmills and four bikes (two sitting, two leaning forward). The weight area is somewhat extensive, but small and disorganized. There are several benches, a smith machine, a squat rack, and various machines (leg press, lat pull down, etc.).
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Lots of skimmers, but the embassy has four ATMs on compound. Credit cards are used a lot by locals.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
AFN is available, except in city apartments and there's English language news/local-doings magazines.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Little. Take the survival course at the embassy and you'll get the basics. Just about every restaurant that isn't a mom-and-pop shop will have an English menu if you ask.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Depends on the disability. If you can walk and see, you'll be fine. In Moscow, Russian drivers now largely obey crosswalks, but it's always best to be wary.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Yes, sort of. Metro and trains are perfectly safe. Metro and trolleys will cost about $1 per ride. You can go one-way to the airport on the express train for an additional $10. Taxis are fine, just stay away from gypsy-cabs. Also, be sure to know what the cost is for taxis. There's a group of cabs that park at elite hotels that will charge $50 to go a mile.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
Front-wheel drive for the snow. Tires are available locally. Tires can't be shipped in by pouch. You can hire association drivers to go out and buy whatever car parts you need. Ship the make/model specific ones in via the pouch.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes, but it varies. For the NEC, 2-5 MB (depends on what ISC has it set to that day) runs $35 per month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
The association will be happy to sign you up for a personal plan with various features, whether it's a cell plan, data plan, or both. For the Apple users, ISC has a device that cuts SIM cards do to the mini size used by Apple products.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
No.
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Several English-speaking vets, some will come to your home.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
It's difficult if you don't work in education.
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Political types in suits, computer guys in jeans and a polo and management in a tie and sometimes a blazer.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
RSO & ISSO will discuss.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
TB if you ride the metro a lot. Decent medical care through the health unit and the local Euro-clinic.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Typically, pretty good. But there are peat bog fires that smolder and can flare up so summer may be hit or miss. One summer it could be as bad as days in Cairo or Beijing and the next summer it would be beautiful.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are seasons. Fall and spring are pretty good. Summer is very nice (unless there's smoke) and winter can be brutal. A typical ski jacket will not be enough, you will want snow pants and a long thick coat.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
There are a couple of schools available. The Anglo-American School is the one that most parents send their child to. Overall a good school, I'd say that it's not as good as some others my child has attended. Be aware that while high schoolers all take a trip, seniors take a different trip at the beginning of the year, so a child arriving at the beginning of their senior year may not have their passport back from the MFA with their multi-entry visa in time to go on this trip. Parents with children in this situation should find out from the school if the senior trip will still be in Sept. and plan accordingly.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
Unknown, but there is a regional psychiatrist based at post and CLO will also have more information.
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Nannies are available and the embassy association has a day-care center onsite.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
There are after school sporting programs and some that are done at the embassy. Since those vary, check with the association for the latest info.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Pretty big. Lots of business people.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Limited by your imagination. The NEC has a lively social community with lots of events taking place at Uncle Sam's (the bar) and once in a while, the Marine House.
3. Morale among expats:
Varies, it's typically a love-it-or-hate-it post.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Yes to all. Single guys fare better than single women (there's a Russian saying that "if he loves her he will beat her" which might dissuade expat women from dating locally too much), but there's a lot to do and explore for everyone. Visa-seekers are a well-known phenomenon.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Probably not. Russians lean toward xenophobia and later in the evening, it's not unusual to see groups of people sitting around drinking. Drunk young people are more likely to show intolerance.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
Many Russians look down on several groups, including those from the Caucasus and central Asian areas. There's always prejudice regarding English speakers, whether pro or con. Most harassment will be subtle.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Guidebooks are best for this.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Russian cultural kitsch.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Culture. And if you're coming from multiple 3rd-world postings, it's cleaner and more organized, although a Russian will laugh to hear it.
11. Can you save money?
Depends, I did, but I can see where some people wouldn't.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Sure. I might consider it again after the construction is done.
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
Sense of privacy.
3. But don't forget your:
Ultra-heavy winter coat.
4. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
