Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 09/01/26
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
No. I've also lived in Central Africa, South East Asia, and the Middle East.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
U.S. east coast. Travel home takes roughly 24 hours door-to-door with one or two flight connections. Most people flew through Doha or Dubai prior to the Iran conflict, but since then Istanbul has become the most common route. My preference has always been to fly via London, but that flight only operates four times per week.
3. What years did you live here?
2024-2026.
4. How long have you lived here?
Two years.
5. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Diplomatic mission.
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Most U.S. embassy personnel live on the embassy compound in modern, if somewhat institutional feeling, apartments. Power is 220v still, but you will have U.S.-equivalent appliances including a dishwasher and potable tap water if you live on compound. There are 1, 2, and 3 bedroom floorplans. Most people on 2 year tours get a 2 or 3 bedroom unit.
There is also limited off compound housing. Most of the off compound housing is in apartments in small buildings with 4-6 units, though there are also some larger stand alone houses. Off compound housing tends to be larger and is generally nice enough, but you'll have to contend with unsafe tap water (the embassy provides filtration systems) and unreliable electricity. Commute time on the embassy compound is a 3-5 minute walk. Commute for off compound housing is generally 15-20 minutes to the embassy. Traffic is usually pretty mild in Islamabad.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Local products are very cheap and mostly decent, just be sure to thoroughly wash any produce and try to buy meat and dairy items from stores you trust to have a mostly-ok cold chain. You can get a lot of imported food and household products locally as well, though prices will be much higher. There are a couple larger grocery stores (though all in inconvenient locations) and many smaller shops, including some that cater more to expats.
There's also a small but really lovely farmers market on Saturday mornings. The U.S. embassy employee association runs a quite well-stocked commissary, which carries a surprisingly good selection of the two things you really can't get anywhere else: alcohol and pork. The embassy association also sells pre-cleaned fresh produce and some limited local meat (chicken breast and ground beef). Those products are a little more expensive than you'd find in town, but still cheaper than the U.S. generally and extremely convenient if you live on compound.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
I tended to bring in laundry products and Mexican cooking ingredients, but almost everything else was available locally or from the commissary. There's no consumables shipment and I didn't miss it.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
There are a decent number of restaurants, including some that are quite good. There are several decent Japanese places, lots of excellent Chinese, decent pizza and Italian, acceptable Middle Eastern and Turkish, and more. I enjoyed exploring the food scene with friends. Food delivery is very common for those living off compound via an app called Food Panda, but most places are not able to deliver inside the diplomatic enclave, so you can't use them easily if you live on compound. There are some limited restaurant options within walking distance of the embassy, including several good cafes.
5. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Mosquitoes can be a problem in the summer, but it's no worse than DC or anywhere in the south in the U.S. I've heard of people in lower floor apartments on compound or in off compound housing complain about minor issues with ants and drain flies, but nothing terrible and the embassy is prompt about doing pest control if you do have an issue.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
DPO usually takes 10-14 days, though there have been disruptions due to the Iran conflict this year. I've ordered things from within Pakistan, which were shipped promptly via a local courier service. That was pretty painless except having to coordinate a pick up somewhere outside the diplomatic enclave.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Household help is inexpensive and widely available. I found quality varies significantly, so I would ask around and only hire someone with good references. Many household helpers have U.S. embassy compound badges and work for several people on compound at once, which makes the administrative burden easier if you hire one of them.
3. Do you feel that it is safe to walk, run or hike outside? Are there areas where bike riding is possible? What is the availability and safety of outdoor space for exercising? Are these easily accessible?
You can easily and safely walk on the diplomatic enclave (which is fairly large), though some people were concerned about the stray dogs and wild boars you might encounter. I never had any issues. Islamabad is not otherwise a terribly walkable city, though each sector of town has a large market square that is more or less pedestrian only and is where most of the shopping and restaurants are clustered. You can walk in those with no problem.
Sidewalks are very limited and drivers can be unpredictable. Many people rode bicycles for exercise. There is quite good hiking in the Margalla Hills, which are small mountains immediately next to the city (15 minutes from the embassy). It was my favorite activity outside summer, when it's too hot. There are a few RSO-approved trails and several more you can get permission to hike on a case-by-case basis that are usually approved with no issue.
4. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
The U.S. embassy has a very good, well equipped, and large 24/7 gym. There is also a large outdoor swimming pool, indoor basketball court (also used for volleyball, pickleball, and other activities), softball field, soccer field, tennis courts, and a golf simulator on compound. There are commercial gyms available in town, but I never used any of them. The embassy association employs personal trainers and tennis pros, who you can book and pay for (very inexpensive) via your embassy association account.
5. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Cards are fairly widely accepted, though you may occasionally find places that don't accept foreign cards. I never had any fraud issues and used a card frequently. I mostly got cash from the ATMs on the embassy compound, but I also used ones in town sometimes and never had a problem. It is wise to always have local cash on you in case you end up at a restaurant or store that doesn't have a western card friendly machine. You'll figure out quickly which ones work best.
6. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes, I believe there were Catholic, Protestant, and LDS Christian services.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
Urdu is nice to have but not at all essential. Most people speak at least a little English and anyone who completed secondary school should speak it fairly well. Street signs, restaurant menus, and signage in shops are usually in both English and Urdu. I'm sure you could easily find an Urdu tutor if you want one.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Yes. Sidewalks are uneven to non-existent and stairs are common. Even the U.S. embassy compound, which is notionally ADA compliant, is still very hilly. You will also have to get in and out of armored SUVs a lot.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
U.S. embassy personnel are not allowed to take local public transport. There are taxis and public buses, but I have no experience with them. Embassy personnel are allowed unlimited Motorpool for both official and personal use, which completely obviates the need for taxis.
2. What kind of vehicle(s) including electric ones do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, infrastructure, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car or vehicles do you advise not to bring?
Very few people at post had POVs, but you are allowed to have one and I highly recommend it. I found life in Islamabad much more convenient with one. Motorpool is freely available, but you have to request it in advance and it makes being spontaneous difficult. I loved having the freedom to just grab my keys and go when I felt like going shopping or out to dinner.
The roads are mostly decent, though the diplomatic enclave has many gnarly speed bumps, so you want at least a little ground clearance. Pakistan is a right-hand drive country and the government recently stopped allowing expats to import left-hand drive (U.S. or continental European style) cars. I'd recommend purchasing one locally, as the import process takes a long time. There are no crime-related safety concerns, though there are sometimes people begging at intersections. Popular makes in Pakistan are Toyota and Suzuki, but you can find other stuff. I never had an issue getting parts locally, though prices were equivalent or slightly more than in the U.S.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes. Speeds are decent and you can have it pre-arranged by your social sponsor prior to arrival. It's a bit more expensive than the U.S. but not horrifically so.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
I used my embassy issued mobile phone for local stuff and kept my U.S. phone at home to use on wifi. Google Fi does work, though the government notionally requires you to register mobile devices after a certain amount of time and some people had their service cut off after they exceeded that. Others didn't though, so YMMV.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
There are vets, including at least one who can come to the U.S. embassy compound, but I think quality varies. I don't believe there is a quarantine requirement. I did not have a pet at post though, so best to confirm those details elsewhere.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
There are some EFM positions available at the embassy, but not enough to meet demand. Some spouses found jobs teaching at international schools, but I think local employment opportunities are otherwise pretty slim.
2. What volunteer opportunities are available locally?
The most common were local animal welfare groups; the Cattaches take care of the U.S. embassy compound cats, and there are a couple dog-related groups that look after strays around the diplomatic enclave. I think the Marines did some volunteering with a local orphanage or something, but I'm not certain on the details.
3. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
Business or business casual is typical within the diplomatic corps. Some people occasionally wore local dress on Fridays and Pakistanis generally love it when expats wear local clothes; you'll get tons of compliments if you do. There are many formal dip corps events you can attend if you want, so you'll have plenty of chances to wear formal evening wear if you so wish.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Pakistan is experiencing an uptick in terrorism across the country, though generally not in the major cities. There were two suicide bombings in Islamabad during my two years there, but both were in areas far from where expats tend to be and neither was targeting foreigners. Nevertheless, it is a risk you have to accept if you choose to go to Pakistan. I never had any concerns about petty crime. Pickpocketing, carjacking, etc., are not common.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Literally everyone experiences gastrointestinal issues. Food safety standards are poor and you will feel it. I found my body adapted after nine months or so and I got sick much less often after that, to the point that I was not particularly careful and ate out frequently with minimal issue.
Local medical care was fair to middling, but I wouldn't want to undergo any major procedure or be hospitalized in Pakistan. You can get most simple diagnostics done locally, but you'll likely be medevaced for anything requiring hospitalization, surgical care, or advanced diagnostics. Good dental care is available locally.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality was poor, but not as bad as many other places in South Asia. AQI was often in the 100-300 range, sometimes going over 500 in the winter. It's tolerable in the summer and gets pretty gross from December - February.
4. What do people who suffer from environmental or food allergies need to know?
The poor air quality may be a concern for anyone with environmental allergies. Islamabad is a fairly green city as well, so if you have pollen sensitivities you might have some issues. There are some limited gluten free products available and you can fairly readily find non-dairy milk, though it'll likely be expensive. Nuts are common in Pakistani cuisine. The local cuisine is meat heavy, so vegetarians and vegans may find it challenging.
5. Are there any particular mental health issues that tend to crop up at post, such as Seasonal Affective Disorder (winter blues)?
The biggest issue that I noticed was among people who were separated from their families, since children are not allowed at post. Singles, childless couples, and empty nesters were generally ok.
6. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
There are basically three seasons: a mild, dry, and smoggy winter (lows in the 30s or 40s F); a very hot, dry summer (highs up to 110 F); and a slightly less hot, but very muggy monsoon season (highs in the 90s F, oppressive humidity, and frequent rain).
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
The U.S. embassy does not allow children at post. However, most of the other diplomatic missions do allow families and there are international schools available.
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
There is a large, vibrant, and very social diplomatic corps and morale is generally high among expats.
2. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Many options. There are lots of house parties among both dips and the more western-oriented locals. Sports are also a common social activity: there's tennis, golf, padel, softball, cricket, polo, you name it. Hiking and rock climbing in the nearby Margalla Hills are also popular.
3. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
It's neither the best, nor the worst I've seen. The expat community is somewhat male dominated, which could be good or bad depending on your preference. I think it's decent for couples and families (though children are not allowed for U.S. embassy folks).
4. Is it easy to make friends with locals here? Are there any prejudices or any ethnic groups who might feel uncomfortable here?
Pakistanis are incredibly warm and hospitable people and I am confident you could make local friends if you sought them out. There are some religious prejudices, even among Muslims, but I have not heard of expats having any particular issues.
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
Islamabad has a small, quiet, but not insignificant LGBT community. That being said, it is a very conservative country and homosexuality is illegal.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
See above re: religious minority issues. It is a very conservative, patriarchal society with many gender issues. That being said, you will see Pakistani women in positions of authority, including senior political leadership roles.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
Hiking in the Margalla Hills, mango season, trips to nearby archeological sites, and dreams of coming back to see Gilgit Baltistan's fabulous mountains.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
The Margalla Hills hiking trails are gem. There are also some pretty solid local golf courses, if that's your thing.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
Yes, it's a great shopping post for carpets and handmade furniture. You can find Persian, Afghan, and Central Asian carpets for a tiny fraction of the price you'd pay in the west. I also had quite a lot of custom furniture made at very reasonable prices. Local pottery, brass work, and antiques are popular as well.
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
It has a remarkably good quality of life relative to the amount of hardship and danger pay most of the diplomatic corps receives. I liked it a lot and would very happily go back.
Words of Wisdom:
1. What do you wish you had known about this particular city/country before moving there?
I wish I'd lived off compound.
2. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Absolutely, I'd go back in a heartbeat.
3. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
expectations about what Pakistan will be like. It often surprised me, frequently in good ways.
4. But don't forget your:
Imodium and electrolytes!
5. Do you recommend any books or movies about this city/country for those who are interested in learning more?
There are lots of books on Pakistan, including a fair number in English written by Pakistani authors. A Case of Exploding Mangoes and Pakistan: A Hard Country are probably the most frequently recommended but there are tons. I think understanding Partition and Pakistan's origins are important to understanding the current political and social dynamics, so I would spend some time on those topics.
