Islamabad, Pakistan Report of what it's like to live there - 05/06/11
Personal Experiences from Islamabad, Pakistan
Background:
1. Was this post your first expatriate experience? If not, what other cities have you lived in as an expat?
2nd expat experience.
2. What is your home city/country? How long is the trip to post from there, with what connections? How easy/difficult is it to travel to this city/country?
Washington, DC. Trip takes about 15 hours. Best flight options are Washington-Doha-Islamabad on Qatar. You can also take Etihad and travel Washington-Abu Dhabi-Islamabad. You can also take Pakistani International Air (PIA) from London to Islamabad. It is terrible. Long haul PIA aircraft have terrible services, bad food, no entertainment and a strange odor. Avoid at all costs.
3. How long have you lived here?
1 year, February 2010- January 2011
4. What brought you to this city (e.g. diplomatic mission, business, NGO, military, teaching, retirement, etc.)?
Government
Housing, Groceries & Food:
1. What is your housing like? What are typical housing sizes, locations, and commute times for expatriates?
Huge, fairly good condition. I had a 3-bedroom house with a den, formal living room, formal dining room, and large kitchen. The house also had 4 bathrooms with marble floors and 15-foot ceilings. Commute time was 15-25 minutes depending on time of day and police check points.
2. How would you describe the availability and cost of groceries and household supplies relative to your home country?
Food: This is a Muslim country, so no pork and all. Meat is Halal. Personally, I really dislike halal meat. I think it is dry and a bit nasty. The best local meat is the frozen chicken breasts from a company called K&N. Everything that is local is cheap, and food-wise most major ingredients are available in some form or another. Specific sauces, spices, and things like ketchup are hard to find in American quality. Cleaning products: the local ones are cheap but terrible. The local laundry detergent is the worst. I shipped all mine from the US or got it from the embassy commissary.
3. What household or grocery items do you wish you had shipped to post?
Nothing. You can order anything you may need when you get there. If you do not have access to DPO or the embassy commissary, I would strongly suggest mailing stuff like detergent, specific spices, sauces, etc.
4. What typical restaurants, food delivery services, and/or takeout options are popular among expatriates?
The government just shut down the McDonald's in Islamabad (there is still one in Rawalpindi about 20 mins away).Islamabad has:Subway- which is terribleDunkin Donuts- Donuts are okay only if you get them first thing in the morning. Coffee is okay. KFC- plentiful. Pizza Hut- okay but greasy. Dominos- Not too bad at all when you need a pizza fix.
5. What kinds of organic, vegetarian and allergy-friendly foods are available, such as organic produce, gluten-free products, meat substitutes for vegetarians, etc?
Being vegetarian in Islamabad is very possible. Meat is very expensive for the locals (but very cheap for Westerners). Veg meals are offered at pretty much all places.
6. Are there any unusual problems with insects or other infestations in housing?
Minor problems. No worse than New York. Malaria is only a threat in southern Pakistan in the Karachi area. Very few people take malaria meds in Islamabad.
Daily Life:
1. How do you send and receive your letters and package mail? Are local postal facilities adequate?
There is a FedEx in Islamabad. It is super cheap and takes 4 or 5 days. I am told that the Pakistani mail service is actually not to bad (3 weeks from the US). But I never used it. The embassy has DPO, which I used for everything. It takes 7-12 business days.
2. What is the availability and cost of household help, and what types of help are typically employed by expatriates?
Cheap and super available. I know many people who had 3 or 4 people on their staff. Part time help is less than $100 a month.
3. What kinds of gyms or other sports/workout facilities are available? Are they expensive?
Embassy has a large facility. There are 1 or 2 western style gyms in the city that I am told are not too bad
4. Are credit cards widely accepted and safe to use locally? Are ATMs common and do you recommend using them? Are they safe to use?
Per embassy advice I only used the ATM at the bank in the diplomatic enclave. I did use my credit card to make some large purchases (jewelry and carpets) with no issues. While Pakistan is a cash economy, hotels and any store that is large or sells expensive goods will take credit cards.
5. What English-language religious services are available locally?
Yes. English is one of the official languages of pakistan. Almost all government business is conducted in english. There is a Holy See Embassy that has catholic services. There are many mosques, but I am not sure when language they use.
6. English-language newspapers and TV available? Cost?
TV is all Pakistani and terrible. Picture quality is inconsistant at best. There are 3 solutions: 1. Pay up and get an AFN dish/box. 2. Go to one of the DVD stores and buy super-cheap DVD's of new releases/tv shows. 3. Watch online over a virtual private network (VPN). VPN costs about $5 a month.
7. How much of the local language do you need for daily living? Are local language classes/tutors available and affordable?
None. Pretty much everyone speaks english.
8. Would someone with physical disabilities have difficulties living in this city?
Tons. This city is not accessible in any way.
Transportation:
1. Are local buses, trams, trains or taxis safe and affordable?
Embassy personnel are not allowed to use these modes of transportation.
2. What kind of car do you recommend bringing to post, given the terrain, availability of parts, burglary/carjacking risks, etc.? What kind of car do you advise not to bring?
A normal sedan is fine in Islamabad. Very few American cars are present. There is a Toyota and Honda dealership for repairs. Also, bodywork is very cheap. Fender-benders are common. When accidents occur, the best policy is to pay some cash (usually 4000 rupies, about $50) and make it go away. As a foreigner it will always be your fault, regardless of the circumstances. If no-one is hurt or if there are only minor injuries, just pay up. You do not want the traffic police to get involved. They may impound your car. The city is laid out as a grid with traffic lights and traffic police. Of all the cities in South Asia, Islamabad has the most calm drivers. They can do some crazy stuff, but it is nowhere near as bad as Lahore, Quetta, Peshawar, or Karachi.
Phone & Internet:
1. Is high-speed home Internet access available? How long does it typically take to install it after arrival?
Yes there are several options. They have an aircard system from PTCL which is just like Verizon's. All you do is plug in the USB and you are good to go. The city also has DSL and cable. $40-60 a month.
2. Do you have any recommendations regarding mobile phones? Did you keep your home-country plan or use a local provider?
Everybody has one. I had Mobilink and they seemed to do a good job. I had a cell phone and BlackBerry and never had any trouble.
Pets:
1. Are qualified veterinarians and/or good kennel services available? Do animals need to be quarantined upon entry to the country? Are there other considerations regarding pets that are particular to this country?
2. Quality pet care available (vets & kennels)?
Vets are present and provide care up to just about the western standard. Ship any pet meds or specific food or products you want. Generally the Pakistanis are not too fond of dogs. Few locals have pets, but many westerners do.
Employment & Volunteer Opportunities:
1. What types of jobs do most expatriate spouses/partners have? Locally based or telecommuting? Full-time or part-time? Can you comment on local salary scales?
2. What is the typical dress code at work and in public places? Is formal dress ever required?
At the embassy it is pretty casual. In public it is casual. I wear a button-down or polo shirt and khakis most days.
Health & Safety:
1. Are there personal security concerns to be aware of at this post? Please describe.
Yes. While Islamabad gives the appearance of security and police control -- with checkpoints and officers everywhere -- the city is full of negative potential. The biggest threat is complacency. People think the city is safe and start getting into routines, go to questionable areas, or act in a manner that draws attention to themselves. Women do not need to wear a head covering however skirts and tank tops are a very bad idea. You will be stared at and highlight yourself. There was very little street crime against Westerners. I can think of only 1 minor incident during my time there.
2. Are there any particular health concerns? What is the quality of available medical care? What medical conditions typically require medical evacuation?
Medical care is questionable at best. While the doctors may be US/UK-trained, the rest of the staff is not. They have to be watched at all times and are not to be trusted. The hospitals are of ok quality, but hey are dirty. The one positive thing I can say is that Islamabad does have a 24-hour imaging center with an MRI and a CAT scan machine. I know the embassy doc sends people there to get films done.
3. What is the air quality like at post (good/moderate/bad)? Are there seasonal air quality issues? Does the air quality have an impact on health?
Air quality is good to fair. It seems to get worse in the winter when the burn items for heat. Also almost all people burn their trash.
4. What is the overall climate: is it extremely hot or cold, wet or dry, at any time of year, for example?
Hot for a huge chunk of the year. There is a rainy season however it seems like it is hit or miss. 2010 was fairly dry in Islamabad with rain for 2 or 3 weeks.
Schools & Children:
1. What is the availability of international schools? What has been your general experience with them, if any?
No personal experience. The international school is located far from the diplomatic enclave. My understanding is that the international school has many western teachers and mostly Indian students who are children of diplomats. US and UK do not allow children of diplomats.
2. What accommodations do schools make for special-needs kids?
3. Are preschools available? Day care? Are these expensive? What has been your experience with them, if any? Do the schools provide before- and/or after-school care?
Household help is very cheap. Check references.
4. Are local sports classes and/or activities available for kids?
Expat Life:
1. What is the relative size of the expatriate community? How would you describe overall morale among expatriates?
Many Americans at the embassy. Also a sizable UK high commission.
2. Morale among expats:
It ranges greatly. Some are very happy some are miserable.
3. What are some typical ways to socialize, either with local people or with other expatriates? Are there groups or clubs that you can recommend?
Most entertaining occurs at homes. Most houses are huge with ample space. Alcohol is hard to get outside of the embassy and is not available at restaurants.
4. Is this a good city for single people? For couples? For families? Why or why not?
Singles- Due to the large US presence in the city there are many Americans however they are mostly male. Interaction with the locals on a romantic/dating level is unusual and generally limited to people who speak Urdu and are Pakistani or Indian. Couples: Islamabad would be a good place. There are many restaurants and other activities such as carpet shopping, hiking, and day trips. Families: None at the Embassy
5. Is this a good city for LGBT expatriates? Why or why not?
I have been told there is quite the gay nightlife/population however I never saw it. The few gay people I knew there seemed to be doing pretty well. Very few if any locals involved.
6. Are there problems with ethnic, race/racial minorities or religious prejudices? Gender equality?
I did not notice any as a white male. In Islamabad I heard very few complaints from anyone on this issue with one major exception: If you are Indian in any way shape or form Islamabad will be a bad city for you. Even if you speak Urdu, the locals do not care and the government will harass you. You will be stopped at checkpoints and you will be followed. I would strongly advise anyone of Indian descent to avoid Pakistan in general.
7. What have been the highlights of your time in this country? Best trips or experiences?
I was able to travel throughout the country and see all the major cities and sites. There are many temples and religious sites to see.
8. What are some interesting/fun things to do in the area? Can you recommend any “hidden gems"?
Carpet shopping, hiking Margalla Hills, day trips to the Salt Mines, various shrines in the area.
9. Is this a "shopping post"? Are there interesting handicrafts, artwork, antiques, or other items that people typically buy there?
10. What are the particular advantages of living in this city?
Islamabad is cheap. House help (cook, clean, shop, etc) can be had for $100 a month for part time and about $200 a month full time/live in. In country travel is possible but very tightly controlled by the Embassy. Multiple safety concerns etc. Out of country travel is very possible. Islamabad has direct flights to Bangkok, Kathmandu, Dubai, Doha, Abu Dhabi, and London.
11. Can you save money?
Yes. As long as you control your impulses to purchase rugs and jewelery from Libra you can.
Words of Wisdom:
1. Knowing what you know now, would you still move to this city?
Yes
2. If you move here, you can leave behind your:
desire to drink/eat bacon in public
3. But don't forget your:
sunscreen/bug spray
